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What next ???

This is a discussion on What next ??? within the Camaro / SS forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Originally Posted by kenro23 Is bode at bsm performance tuning your car? Where are you from originally? I know im ...

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenro23 View Post
    Is bode at bsm performance tuning your car? Where are you from originally?

    I know im off topic of what you were asking in the first place. Just havent seen anyone on here that lives in hawaii. A friend of mine has a 35th with very little mods on island too. Maybe we can get together one weekend and take a cruise aroind island.
    yeah that's definitely where I'm taking it. I'm in Louisiana working on some aircraft's for a few weeks then planning n getting it tuned a little while after I get back. I'm originally from Florida. I am definitely down for a cruise. we will link up when I get back
    Last edited by 2NDSLPSS; 07-26-2011 at 12:22 PM.

  2. #22
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    can anyone straighten me out on what I said about the maf? also do u really think that Cam only I will be making enough power to worry about a rear when not launching on stickies?

  3. #23
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by konigandy6 View Post
    Because you can break torque an auto. Manuals require a lot of finesse to accomplish the same thing... line locks make this process a hell of a lot easier.
    I was going to state this in my post, but didn't. Thank you.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    I guess for your burnout if you didn't want to tear up your rear rotors you could still use one for an auto.

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    Senior Member kenro23's Avatar
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    Dont know if you have been to bode before but he is extra slow with the work he does. If all you are doing is a tune then im sure you will be there with the car and it willbtake as long as he takes.
    Suspension: Lower control arms (Spohn), Drive shaft safety loop, Torque arm (Edlebrock), Strut tower brace, Panhard Bar (BMR)

    Under the Hood: Smooth bellows, Lid, Catch can, LT Headers, ORY, AIR/EGR delete, Poly engine/transmission mounts,

    Exterior: Painted brake calipers (Red), Halo “Spyder” Headlights w/matching parking/turn signals (Black)

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    Senior Member kenro23's Avatar
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    Dont get me wrong, hes really good but he works on local time. If you havent been in hawaii long they have their own time. Haha. Funny but definetely true

  7. #27
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2NDSLPSS View Post
    can anyone straighten me out on what I said about the maf? also do u really think that Cam only I will be making enough power to worry about a rear when not launching on stickies?
    I have my stock MAF and was making 540 to the wheels which is about 650 at the crank. I don't understand why you feel like you need a new MAF. Leave your stock one alone. Trust me

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2NDSLPSS View Post
    can anyone straighten me out on what I said about the maf? also do u really think that Cam only I will be making enough power to worry about a rear when not launching on stickies?
    The rear end in these cars are the weakest link. People break them with stock power. An auto is more forgiving and gives less drive-train shock because you can preload it, but the smart thing to do is be proactive and upgrade suspension, rear end, etc BEFORE adding a lot of power.

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    ^^this!

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    Senior Member kenro23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    The rear end in these cars are the weakest link. People break them with stock power. An auto is more forgiving and gives less drive-train shock because you can preload it, but the smart thing to do is be proactive and upgrade suspension, rear end, etc BEFORE adding a lot of power.
    What rear end do you recommend and what is your opinion on removing the screen in the maf?

  11. #31
    blah '02 WS6's Avatar
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    Strange 60, 12 bolt, Moser 9", all those are great choices. As for the MAF, leave it alone unless you're pushing 500rwhp+ as that's how much the factory unit will support.
    '02 ws6.....mods? nope

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    Senior Member kenro23's Avatar
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    Im not planning on messing with mine. Just heard a lot of people taking the screen out. Just seems like an invitation for disaster to me

    Are all 3 of those around the same price?

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    95% of the people on here will tell you the same thing...do not touch the MAF.

    Some people have removed the screen. I personally do not see what advantage you get from it. You are changing how the air flows now through the MAF, which the PCM will now detect and try to recalibrate the amount of fuel being delivered to the engine. Any modifications done to the MAF need to be compensated for via tune I believe.

    Rear ends - lots to choose from. I personally went with a Moser 9". There is also Dana, Strange, and MWC. The consensus is if you're auto get a 12 bolt and if you're M6 get a 9". That rule doesn't HAVE TO BE followed, but that's the rule of thumb.

    Each rear end has its advantages and disadvantages.

    There is a sticky in the drive train section I believe detailing what those are.

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    Senior Member kenro23's Avatar
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    Cool. Thanks

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    An aftermarket rear end will run you in the ball park of $2500-$3000, depending on what options you choose.

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    Senior Member kenro23's Avatar
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    I saw a 12 bolt on hawksthirdgenparts.com for 2300 i believe. Any other places you recommend getting one from? My deal is im at a stopping point for engine mods until i get out of hawaii. Now im doing appearance mods ajd want to get a rear end before i mess with anything else under the hood.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    You do realize you've hi-jacked the OP's thread right?

    Figure out which one suits your needs first, then shop I would tell you to check out the sponsors here, but I'm not sure if we have all of the sponsors we used to. Doesn't look like it.

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    Senior Member kenro23's Avatar
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    You are right. I did and i appologize. Just didnt see the need to start one when yall continued to answer my questions. Guess yall are at fault for answering too. Haha

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    no its all good I was about to get into asking about rear ends as well. what's everyone thoughts on the strength of these rears with girdles and welded tubes? I have seen a decent bit of people doing this and supposedly pulling 1.5's without breaking shit. still gambling?

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    It's always a gamble with the 10 bolt. Some have run them with high horsepower with no problems. Others have fragged them under stock power. There's only one way to find out, unfortunately. For the most part, power + traction = a destroyed 10 bolt. Moser, Strange, and MWC are the manufacturers most go with. A 12 bolt for an A4, and a 9" for a M6, is usually what most do, but either can work. The 9" seems to withstand the torque load of a manual better. For high horsepower applications, a Dana 60 is available too. Most consider it overkill though. Many options are available for each rear as well, as in axle splines, diff types, ect.

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