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Turn Signal Bulb CONSTANTLY blowing

This is a discussion on Turn Signal Bulb CONSTANTLY blowing within the Camaro / SS forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; I have a 2002 camaro and just recently i have been blowing right front turn signal bulbs all the time. ...

  1. #1
    Junior Member 64MonGooSe64's Avatar
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    Turn Signal Bulb CONSTANTLY blowing

    I have a 2002 camaro and just recently i have been blowing right front turn signal bulbs all the time. ive probably replaced it 3 times in the last few weeks.

    Anyone have any ideas why this would happen and how to fix it.

    additional info: the very first time it blew the bulb housing actually MELTED to the light housing and cracked the bulb when i twisted it to take it out, i cleaned up the extra glass melted to the housing just enought to get the new bulb in and rotated.
    Last edited by 64MonGooSe64; 07-21-2009 at 09:34 PM.
    2002 Z28 Camaro A4
    Built by: Tick Performance and Tuned by: Alvin @ PCMofNC
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    7.79 @ 91.5 on true street tires
    7.43 @ 92 on Drag radials

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    Impounded
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    Tried replacing the socket?

  3. #3
    Junior Member 64MonGooSe64's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshieDoom View Post
    Tried replacing the socket?
    I think thats my next step

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    Impounded
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    79 T/A -91 Firebird
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    Quote Originally Posted by 64MonGooSe64 View Post
    I think thats my next step
    They are around 8 bucks at autozone.

    Simple fix

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    Blown, Stroked, & Sprayed

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    Water getting into the housing?

  6. #6
    Junior Member 64MonGooSe64's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ed Blown Vert View Post
    Water getting into the housing?
    i dont think so, but that is a possibility

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    Quote Originally Posted by 64MonGooSe64 View Post
    I have a 2002 camaro and just recently i have been blowing right front turn signal bulbs all the time. ive probably replaced it 3 times in the last few weeks.

    Anyone have any ideas why this would happen and how to fix it.

    additional info: the very first time it blew the bulb housing actually MELTED to the light housing and cracked the bulb when i twisted it to take it out, i cleaned up the extra glass melted to the housing just enought to get the new bulb in and rotated.
    the old daytime running lamp syndrome.

  8. #8
    Junior Member 64MonGooSe64's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dklowrider View Post
    the old daytime running lamp syndrome.
    mmmhmmm exactly how i feel.

  9. #9
    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    When you put the next bulb in, wipe the bulb off with your shirt or a rag to get the oil of that your fingers left behind. Sometimes that can cause it to burn out quickly.

  10. #10
    Member FullBlack4thGen's Avatar
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    If you have some time on your hands here is what i would do.

    First, go to autozone and buy a new socket. Put that on. Then take your whole signal light assembly out and blow it out with air, just to get out any condensation thats there. Make sure you dont use too much pressure and blow the light assembly apart . Lastly (and most obviously) replace the bulbs.

  11. #11
    Member gbd99ws6's Avatar
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    Got sick and tired of changing bulbs and sockets, they either blew or the socket melted. I put in leds and havn't had a problem with them, been about a year and a half now.

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    Senior Member 01SOMSS!'s Avatar
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    i used to have this all the time.i just have to change them every 4 months or so now.dont know why.

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    Senior Member Z28_Driver's Avatar
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    is there any way to turn off the daytime running lights?

  14. #14
    $ 25,000 panty dropper VENOMOUS's Avatar
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    FIX to your problems!!!!!!!!! READ ON!~ Sticky MOD

    OK guys, after 4 Trans Ams from 98,99,01,and my 02 WS6 I can tell you I've spent enough money on bulbs and sockets to cure this problem that I could have bought everyone that's posted the fix and had some change.

    Ready for the fix? Keep waiting......................
    O.K. tormented you long enough. The problem is in the housing itself. The bulbs and sockets are secondary issues caused by the housings. Many of you have gone through the taillight problems with our cars letting moisture in the housings causing the reverse lights to tarnish and the chrome plating corrode. This situation is similar, if you look closely at your DRLs ( daytime running lamps) at the housings you'll see 2 vertical lines that look as if they were cast in the mold into the lense. Fagetaboutit, I overlooked these too many times in the past like I stated earlier and kept replacing bulbs and sockets, ( and I live in Texas) but everytime I'd wash the car the moisture entered the lensed and corroded the sockets and bulbs. The 2 hairline fractres that look like they are made in there are where the moisture enters and starts it's work. I've found aftermarket replacements as cheap as $40 I believe and I didn't trust most ebay items but they were great.
    When you replace them, you might as well do the bulbs and sockets ( if need be on the sockets but you look and make the call due to the corrosion I recommend it) and heatshrink the connections on the new socket pigtails and you'll likely never have to change these bulbs again.
    G.M. has always had problems with their plastic housings as many other as well. Take a closer look at the rest of the F-bods and for sure any 2001-up Tahoe,Suburban, YUkon, Pickup and see that their DRLs are likely not working or one is out!! Not funny G.M.
    I had a buddy recently buy an 08' Siverado and within 3 days he was lightless on one DRL, cause was not moisture but what I say is too cheap a mass produced bulb or excess vibration to the plastic housings.

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    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VENOMOUS View Post
    OK guys, after 4 Trans Ams from 98,99,01,and my 02 WS6 I can tell you I've spent enough money on bulbs and sockets to cure this problem that I could have bought everyone that's posted the fix and had some change.

    Ready for the fix? Keep waiting......................
    O.K. tormented you long enough. The problem is in the housing itself. The bulbs and sockets are secondary issues caused by the housings. Many of you have gone through the taillight problems with our cars letting moisture in the housings causing the reverse lights to tarnish and the chrome plating corrode. This situation is similar, if you look closely at your DRLs ( daytime running lamps) at the housings you'll see 2 vertical lines that look as if they were cast in the mold into the lense. Fagetaboutit, I overlooked these too many times in the past like I stated earlier and kept replacing bulbs and sockets, ( and I live in Texas) but everytime I'd wash the car the moisture entered the lensed and corroded the sockets and bulbs. The 2 hairline fractres that look like they are made in there are where the moisture enters and starts it's work. I've found aftermarket replacements as cheap as $40 I believe and I didn't trust most ebay items but they were great.
    When you replace them, you might as well do the bulbs and sockets ( if need be on the sockets but you look and make the call due to the corrosion I recommend it) and heatshrink the connections on the new socket pigtails and you'll likely never have to change these bulbs again.
    G.M. has always had problems with their plastic housings as many other as well. Take a closer look at the rest of the F-bods and for sure any 2001-up Tahoe,Suburban, YUkon, Pickup and see that their DRLs are likely not working or one is out!! Not funny G.M.
    I had a buddy recently buy an 08' Siverado and within 3 days he was lightless on one DRL, cause was not moisture but what I say is too cheap a mass produced bulb or excess vibration to the plastic housings
    .
    Agree, my younger brother has a 08 Colorado. Slam the tail gate the brake light blows, hit a bump the light blows, hold your tongue wrong the light blows, breath on it the light blows. As for my Camaro, never had any problem with DRL's but I did have the melting and collapsing tail light happen. To remedy this when I replaced the tail lamp housing. I turned the lamp socket so that the "high" bulb filoment(sp) or "bright" side of the lamp was facing down. This keeps the hottest part of the lamp in the more open area of the housing. Have'nt had the problem since.
    Last edited by Smittro; 07-24-2009 at 06:04 PM.

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    Junior Member krazykarl454's Avatar
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    if there shattered its water hitting the hot glass. if where its melted has cracks, epoxy them up and seal the socket with RTV. i good way to prevent this or eliminate the problem is run LEDs. almost no heat. so u'll stop melting your housings

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    Junior Member 64MonGooSe64's Avatar
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    ok now ive got a question for everyone, obviosuly the bulb has 2 filaments and there are 3 wires. so how does this work... is 1 filament CONSTANTLY ON, and the other filament goes on and off with the blinker, OR is it BOTH Filaments are constantly on and the WHOLE LIGHT GOES ON AND OFF when turn signaling.

    MINE is currently doing the 2nd one, and i think it might be getting to hot, if its supposed to be 1 constant filament and 1 blinker filament what would cause this to change to both filaments CONSTANTLY working and the whole bulb going ON AND OFF when turn signalling

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    Quote Originally Posted by 64MonGooSe64 View Post
    ok now ive got a question for everyone, obviosuly the bulb has 2 filaments and there are 3 wires. so how does this work... is 1 filament CONSTANTLY ON, and the other filament goes on and off with the blinker, OR is it BOTH Filaments are constantly on and the WHOLE LIGHT GOES ON AND OFF when turn signaling.

    MINE is currently doing the 2nd one, and i think it might be getting to hot, if its supposed to be 1 constant filament and 1 blinker filament what would cause this to change to both filaments CONSTANTLY working and the whole bulb going ON AND OFF when turn signalling
    1 filament for parking lamps, 1 filament for turn signal/ drls which flashes for turnsignal and is constant for drls. if parking lamps are on it only flashes for turn signals. in other words if you have the light switch in any position but off it works like any other car, you have a constant light[the dimmer one, not the drl], and the brighter one[turn/drl] to flash for turn signals. turn the lights to off position and you now have the turn signal filament on constant for drls, and the same filament flashes if you turn your turnsignal on. if you have both constantly on and if they both flash you have a wiring problem. if light switch is off: 1 bright light, if light switch is on: 1 dim light. the only time it should look like the whole light goes on and off is with light switch in the off position and the turn signal activated. both filaments should never be on constant at the same time. 1 wire for parking lamps, 1 wire for turn/drl, 1 wire for ground. what you describe, if the lights were working properly before, "usually" can be traced to a ground problem. hope this helps. sometimes wiring is like
    Last edited by dklowrider; 07-26-2009 at 11:07 AM.

  19. #19
    Junior Member 64MonGooSe64's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dklowrider View Post
    1 filament for parking lamps, 1 filament for turn signal/ drls which flashes for turnsignal and is constant for drls. if parking lamps are on it only flashes for turn signals. in other words if you have the light switch in any position but off it works like any other car, you have a constant light[the dimmer one, not the drl], and the brighter one[turn/drl] to flash for turn signals. turn the lights to off position and you now have the turn signal filament on constant for drls, and the same filament flashes if you turn your turnsignal on. if you have both constantly on and if they both flash you have a wiring problem. if light switch is off: 1 bright light, if light switch is on: 1 dim light. the only time it should look like the whole light goes on and off is with light switch in the off position and the turn signal activated. both filaments should never be on constant at the same time. 1 wire for parking lamps, 1 wire for turn/drl, 1 wire for ground. what you describe, if the lights were working properly before, "usually" can be traced to a ground problem. hope this helps. sometimes wiring is like

    yea i just replaced a socket and buld, in an aftermarket housing, with using a rag to clean it off and put it in, sealing it with the goop and it still blew out 3 days later.

    seems to me that both filaments should NOT be constantly running and just blinking when signaling so i think i have some sort of wiring issue (could it possibly be my turn signal stork, or mayb the flasher relay?)

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    Quote Originally Posted by 64MonGooSe64 View Post
    yea i just replaced a socket and buld, in an aftermarket housing, with using a rag to clean it off and put it in, sealing it with the goop and it still blew out 3 days later.

    seems to me that both filaments should NOT be constantly running and just blinking when signaling so i think i have some sort of wiring issue (could it possibly be my turn signal stork, or mayb the flasher relay?)
    a bad ground does some funny stuff, but your flasher and turn signal lever dont have any connection to the parking lights directly. are both filaments on all the time, like when your ignition is on and it should be the drls, and when the lights are turned on and should just be the parking lights? you might want to check the wires on the bulb base and the contacts in the socket to make sure they arent touching where they arent supposed to, a bent or out of line contact on either could cause contact sending current where it doesnt belong.

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