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Traction problem

This is a discussion on Traction problem within the Camaro / SS forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; I have an 02 Z28 6spd with headers, exhaust, programmer, slp mas air, air box and few other things with ...

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    Traction problem

    I have an 02 Z28 6spd with headers, exhaust, programmer, slp mas air, air box and few other things with 4.10 gears. Basically just bolt ons no engine work. I bought the car a few months ago with stock 16's on and there was no traction 1rst and 2nd gear. I bought zo6 wheels, 18x10.5 in the rear with 295/35 michelin pilot sports for a more aggressive look and the hope of gaining more traction for just regular use. Well that didnt work, it actually feels worse if thats possible. Does this sound normal because of the 4.10 gears? I dont have to hit 2nd out of 1rst to lose it, I can just be in holding it there and too much gas the rear will beak loose. Will drag radials help with this? The car has alot of power and I can't enjoy it if all I do is slide all over the place.

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    Four Seat Vette 10spokess's Avatar
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    if you have ttops invest in sub frame connectors, or you can get relocation brackets and just go into the suspencion thats all i can think of

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    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    Get a good drag radial under it. I run mickey Thompson on the street usually, and they hold well. Tire life is horrible, I don't like them in corners as much as other DR's. Nitto 555R is a decent DR for the street also. What suspension do you have?

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    Junior Member SPDYGON's Avatar
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    no suspension upgrades will help on the street , drive the car and get used to the power under your foot .

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    Like these guys have said....drag radials will be a night and day difference. Relocation brackets will help you some too.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 10spokess View Post
    if you have ttops invest in sub frame connectors, or you can get relocation brackets and just go into the suspencion thats all i can think of
    All 4th gens are T-top cars. A piece of thin guage sheet metal covering the t-top openings does nothing in the way of strength on the hard top cars. But I do agree with the SFC's.
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    Senior Member 00z28bubba's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10spokess View Post
    if you have ttops invest in sub frame connectors, or you can get relocation brackets and just go into the suspencion thats all i can think of
    sfc's for the unibody frame. twisted frames make the t tops have problems.

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    Senior Member Z28_Driver's Avatar
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    Get the subframe connectors. I have an A4 that had a traction problem on launches. The SFCs helped quite a bit.

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    Thanks guys, yeah I was thinking of going with drag radials at first but I thought if I went with a wide enough street tire it would be ok. Well now I know that isn't the case. The car isn't my DD so I'm not too worried about tread life, it really doesnt get driven much. Sucks because I just bought these tires new and im probably gonna sell them. It takes the fun out of driving this car if 3rd thru 6th are the only gears you I get on. As far as the susension, the previous owner did all the bolt ons but nothing to the suspension. It looks all stock so I guess I can look into upgrading that area as well. The sub frames are a good idea and Ill look up the relocation brackets, I never heard of that before. Good thing is have all winter to mess with this car before I bring it out for driving/racing in the spring.

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    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    When I drive long distances (club events) I have stock tires on my 02. Racing with these I get 1.9x 60' and 13.0x times. When I race I use MT ET Street radials. Racing with these I get 1.7x 60' (more practice and I know I can get a 1.6x out of it) and 12.5x times. Stock tires = slip n' slide. MT's = insta hook. Like stated though excellent traction = short tire life.

    And the very 1st mod for these cars should be weld in SFC's. You don't want the T-tops to leak and you want to be able to close the doors in a few years don't you?

    2nd mod you might want to get would be a body mount adjustable torque arm and corresponding tranny mount to bolt it to. I use Mid West Chassis but there are others available out there.

    You won't need relocation brackets unless the car is lowered.

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    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 67CamaroRSSS View Post
    You won't need relocation brackets unless the car is lowered.
    relocation brackets help with traction at stock height also

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    Four Seat Vette 10spokess's Avatar
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    the subframeconnecters make the car feel so much better almost all the rattle goes away while driving

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    Carless blkSS98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    All 4th gens are T-top cars. A piece of thin guage sheet metal covering the t-top openings does nothing in the way of strength on the hard top cars. But I do agree with the SFC's.
    Doesnt the metal above the windows on full metal roof cars help?

    Quote Originally Posted by rideofurlife View Post
    I have an 02 Z28 6spd with headers, exhaust, programmer, slp mas air, air box and few other things with 4.10 gears. Basically just bolt ons no engine work. I bought the car a few months ago with stock 16's on and there was no traction 1rst and 2nd gear. I bought zo6 wheels, 18x10.5 in the rear with 295/35 michelin pilot sports for a more aggressive look and the hope of gaining more traction for just regular use. Well that didnt work, it actually feels worse if thats possible. Does this sound normal because of the 4.10 gears? I dont have to hit 2nd out of 1rst to lose it, I can just be in holding it there and too much gas the rear will beak loose. Will drag radials help with this? The car has alot of power and I can't enjoy it if all I do is slide all over the place.
    I think part of your problem is that you bought 18's and now you might have a shorter sidewall. Just a guess.
    Last edited by blkSS98; 01-03-2010 at 07:30 PM. Reason: What else can we call the cars w/ metal roofs?

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    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blkSS98 View Post
    Doesnt the metal above the windows on full metal roof cars help?
    Not a full metal roof
    Its like taking a ttop car and sticking a thin sheet of metal there to block off the whole

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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    Like these guys have said....drag radials will be a night and day difference. Relocation brackets will help you some too.
    Ditto what Orion said.

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    Quote Originally Posted by blkSS98 View Post
    Doesnt the metal above the windows on full metal roof cars help? think part of your problem is that you bought 18's and now you might have a shorter sidewall. Just a guess.


    Very little, It's the "spine" of a unibody that does the most work, just about everthing else is just a semi-hard point. Hard points on uni-body cars such as ours are usually anywhere @ least 3 pieces of sheet metal are brought together or welded. The cross over stamping that is over the windows only consists of 2. Creating more of a "hinged" twist point with sharp corners. Without writing a book, basicly if you make a cut out patern in sheet metal with sharp corner say (example) 90* making an "L" shape then flex it from either end over/over again it will eventually crack @ the 90* corner in the middle. The center support in our uni-bodies has curves or gussets in the stamping where it meets the windsheiled frame and the sail frame these curves combined with other stampings creat a very strong upper "spine"..


    Quote Originally Posted by tatertot91 View Post
    Not a full metal roof
    Its like taking a ttop car and sticking a thin sheet of metal there to block off the whole
    What he said..
    Last edited by Smittro; 01-01-2010 at 03:23 PM. Reason: spelling

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    Junior Member SPDYGON's Avatar
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    my car had no upgrades under and ran a best of 13sec with wheel hope . i then install lower control arms and ran a best of 12.79 both times with street tires . i now have torque arm , pan hard bar , etc and it did not make my car go faster but it did make it more solid , stable if you will so unless you have big horse power i would just install lower control arms and learn to drive the car . * more money you have the more you will spend on item you do not need

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    Senior Member MrMasterCraft's Avatar
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    FYI - I'm raising the big BS flag on the t-top theory. BUT ONLY HALF! So don't start a flame haha Seriously tho. I would jack up my TA t-top car when changing the oil and get in it with the car up in the air but to one side. After getting out, and shutting the door, it never wanted to shut straight. I've done this with my Z as well, and no problems whatsoever. My Z is a hardtop. Also had a red LT1 t-top formula that was WORSE! Bought a '94 black formula hardtop/M6 dirt cheap that I put some pocket change into to sell and make money on, and that thing was structurally sound probably as well as my Z is! And you're saying the "small peice of metal" on the roof does nothing for rigidity? I understand what you're saying, and I know exactly what you're talking about but I say it does atleast SOMETHING from first hand experience.

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    Senior Member MrMasterCraft's Avatar
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    Back on subject, if you have any factory 16" camaro/firebird wheels laying around, think real heavily about buying DRs for them, to allow for sidewall flex. I'm definately not going to say going from 17s to 18s made your problem worse, but I can promise you it didn't help any going to a shorter sidewall. Plus, if you're driving on shitty roads or portions of interstates, then you need to be a little MORE cautious about not bending a wheel. Atleast if you have another car laying around, this is what you can tell your wife, so you can keep the miles off the Fbody and drive something else I've got a few suspension goodies layin' here I still need to install, with one still on the way. I'll let ya know how it turns out next weekend

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    Quote Originally Posted by MrMasterCraft View Post
    Back on subject, if you have any factory 16" camaro/firebird wheels laying around, think real heavily about buying DRs for them, to allow for sidewall flex. I'm definately not going to say going from 17s to 18s made your problem worse, but I can promise you it didn't help any going to a shorter sidewall. Plus, if you're driving on shitty roads or portions of interstates, then you need to be a little MORE cautious about not bending a wheel. Atleast if you have another car laying around, this is what you can tell your wife, so you can keep the miles off the Fbody and drive something else I've got a few suspension goodies layin' here I still need to install, with one still on the way. I'll let ya know how it turns out next weekend
    agree...almost pointed out the sidewall thing myself but figured he's trying to work with what he has. If you want traction you should of went smaller instead of larger and put some 15's on there with DR's.

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