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Suspension

This is a discussion on Suspension within the Camaro / SS forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; What is the best suspension upgrade for a 2000 Z28?...

  1. #1
    Junior Member Jkerr27's Avatar
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    Suspension

    What is the best suspension upgrade for a 2000 Z28?

  2. #2
    Your dealership guy konigandy6's Avatar
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    I'd start with subframe connectors first.

    There is so much you can do to the suspension and is all good! In the rear alone, you have sway bar, panhard bar, panhard relocation bar, lower control arms, shocks... and then you have to choose adjustable or non adjustable.... and THEN you have to choose if you will be lowering your car...

    So your options are limitless, you just have to dream it and do it. But like I said, start with the SFC's!

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  3. #3
    Member km346's Avatar
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    This is a very vague question... the best suspension mod depends on what your goals are for the car. What is it your looking to change about the way the car handles?

  4. #4
    Member Eric1987's Avatar
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    I want my car to be able to out handle or on par with a 350z. Is it capable?

  5. #5
    Member side2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric1987 View Post
    I want my car to be able to out handle or on par with a 350z. Is it capable?
    fuck yea its capable. i dunno how the f-body it is STILL mythically a non-handling overweight dinosaur. gotta understand, when talkin 'bout handling (just like just bout every other aspect of performance) there are trade offs for configurations. long 'n wide (like that of an f-body) is excellent for high-speed turns. shorter is better for "slower" turns. thats why small, busted "tuner" cars are good for slow speed cone weavin in parkin lots (autocross). all i do with my car is road race, and i dont lose to anything but BUILT vettes and MODDED "supercars". . .and i am working on replacing the only flaw (solid rear) with a c4 axle.

    ok now that i have said that. . .i posted my sig so you know what i got. . .the first thing i would do is weld in nice sub frame connectors. next shocks and springs: koni adjustables and nothing else. i know theyre 800 bucks a set but they ARE the best and ive sent them back to get them rebuilt after some serious abuse (blown). for springs, anything designed for handling that drops 2" (or more) should be legit. i have run a few and i prefer eibach. i have the 2 1/4 " eibachs on right now. 3rd need to start replacin the stamped shit with tubular: panhard rods and the rear control arms are the most important, then k-member and front lower a arms are pocket allowing. sway bar sets are also nice but more importantly gotta replace all rubber shit with either poly or composite bushings.

    -set your front camber to -1 to -2 degrees and you got yourself a car that nothin you see on the street will touch, as long as you're willin to drive it.

    -biggest single upgrade to ANY car is tires. a car that handles shittily can handle pretty good with a set of sticky tires. . . .add sticky tires to a car that already handles well and you got yourself one mean machine. 350z's are a joke vs my car. . .i dont see anything but vettes and expensive cars winning any races. scope scca race results before anyone bashes what im sayin. . .in top 10 at least 1/2 are vettes and you will see an f-body sneak in the standings occasionally.
    Last edited by side2000; 05-25-2009 at 08:15 PM.
    2000 red ss: >2" drop, koni adjustables 'n 275 s-compounds all way around, giant brakes, dynatech LT's, borla catback (no plate), t56, tubular everything, HARD TOP, caged, "stock" heads 'n a mean cam. -2* front camber.

  6. #6
    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Like said above, but i wouldn't go more than a 2" drop. Thats me personally, you can go really low, but with any kind of exhaust (even stock), you may end up bottoming out on some speed bumps.

    I would go with Sway bars, LCAs, Panhard rod, Shocks and Springs. Don't do springs until you get the shocks though.

  7. #7
    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    depends if you want to go in a straight line or go through the twisties. Tell us how much money you have and we'll help you spend it.
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  8. #8
    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    "Cheap, Fast, Reliable<<<--------pick any two"

    That makes too much sense btw

  9. #9
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    Strano Springs, Strano 35/22 Hollow Swaybars and Koni S/A's

    Nuff said
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  10. #10
    Member Eric1987's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by side2000 View Post
    fuck yea its capable. i dunno how the f-body it is STILL mythically a non-handling overweight dinosaur. gotta understand, when talkin 'bout handling (just like just bout every other aspect of performance) there are trade offs for configurations. long 'n wide (like that of an f-body) is excellent for high-speed turns. shorter is better for "slower" turns. thats why small, busted "tuner" cars are good for slow speed cone weavin in parkin lots (autocross). all i do with my car is road race, and i dont lose to anything but BUILT vettes and MODDED "supercars". . .and i am working on replacing the only flaw (solid rear) with a c4 axle.

    ok now that i have said that. . .i posted my sig so you know what i got. . .the first thing i would do is weld in nice sub frame connectors. next shocks and springs: koni adjustables and nothing else. i know theyre 800 bucks a set but they ARE the best and ive sent them back to get them rebuilt after some serious abuse (blown). for springs, anything designed for handling that drops 2" (or more) should be legit. i have run a few and i prefer eibach. i have the 2 1/4 " eibachs on right now. 3rd need to start replacin the stamped shit with tubular: panhard rods and the rear control arms are the most important, then k-member and front lower a arms are pocket allowing. sway bar sets are also nice but more importantly gotta replace all rubber shit with either poly or composite bushings.

    -set your front camber to -1 to -2 degrees and you got yourself a car that nothin you see on the street will touch, as long as you're willin to drive it.

    -biggest single upgrade to ANY car is tires. a car that handles shittily can handle pretty good with a set of sticky tires. . . .add sticky tires to a car that already handles well and you got yourself one mean machine. 350z's are a joke vs my car. . .i dont see anything but vettes and expensive cars winning any races. scope scca race results before anyone bashes what im sayin. . .in top 10 at least 1/2 are vettes and you will see an f-body sneak in the standings occasionally.
    Damn that shit is bad ass. I didnt know if the car had it in itself. I am curious how much it would cost to make it handle on par with a 350z.

  11. #11
    Member side2000's Avatar
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    a grand will get you 2" drop and koni adjustables. you'll have to get used to hearing "i never knew camaros could do that". . .those are just the main items but i wouldnt do those things without SFC on a t-top car. hell first thing i always do on a subframe care is SFCs. . .about the exhaust- -many long tube header setups actually increase ground clearance over the stock y.

  12. #12
    Member Eric1987's Avatar
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    I am for sure going to do SFCs first. They seem to be overrated everyone chooses it as their first handling mod. Does it make THAT big of a difference?

  13. #13
    GM made me do it!! IT_SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by side2000 View Post
    and i am working on replacing the only flaw (solid rear) with a c4 axle.
    Whoa whoa whoa, there's a way to do this? Not to thread jack or anything but I got to a local swap meet and I always see @ least 3 of them.......and I envy the vettes for this...

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    what about traction bars. not sure if they apply to the 4th gens

  15. #15
    Member Eric1987's Avatar
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    And my car is convertible should I still waste my time trying to get it to handle good?

  16. #16
    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric1987 View Post
    And my car is convertible should I still waste my time trying to get it to handle good?
    Your car is weaker because it is a convertable. That will help with body flex.

  17. #17
    Member Eric1987's Avatar
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    Well is it worth it to make it handle bad ass?

  18. #18
    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric1987 View Post
    Well is it worth it to make it handle bad ass?
    I don't see why not? I think ntimd8r's car is a vert

  19. #19
    Member side2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IT_SS View Post
    Whoa whoa whoa, there's a way to do this? Not to thread jack or anything but I got to a local swap meet and I always see @ least 3 of them.......and I envy the vettes for this...
    theres a way to do just about anything to just about anything as long as ya got the right stuff and enough will. ive been a part of c4 axle swaps on some old street rods. . .i may have to cut out a lot of stuff and readjust some stuff. . .but im really considering doin it cuz i got access to one for just bout nothin.

  20. #20
    Member side2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric1987 View Post
    And my car is convertible should I still waste my time trying to get it to handle good?
    you NEED a roll cage. an 8 pt would do ya right. a caged vert is way more rigid than a t-top car w/o a cage. sub frame connectors are really not to MAKE your car handle better (although they do) . . . they are to ensure as little flex as possible. your quarter panels will ripple if you dont strengthen up your sub frame car before you start bangin turns hard. hell if you look at my car just the right way you can see ripples with my setup. there is nothin wrong with your vert- - -in fact it will look pretty mean slammed to the ground w/ a roll cage stickin out while youre drivin with the top down. especially if you are just gonna be drivin on the street there is absolutely no reason you cant make the thing rigid enough to stay straight under hard cornering.

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