Steel or Aluminum flywheel?

**Spikito** · 10-14-2010, 07:16 AM

Ok so I have that other thread going about which hydraulics and clutch i should get, and im pretty much set on the Tick adjustable, and the LS7 clutch, but I just can not decide on the fly wheel.

I know both have pros and cons, I like the idea of less rotating mass, which will allow RPMs to to rev and slow down faster, but at the same time, i lose some of my momentum when im not in the throttle. Sometimes I think a lighter flywheel will help my shifts be smother and more consistent, but other times i feel like it will make it rougher

any experience?

**Mr. Luos** · 10-14-2010, 07:21 AM

I prefer steel.
But I beat the shit out of my clutches.

**Spikito** · 10-14-2010, 07:23 AM

well from what I've heard, the structural parts are aluminum, and the contact surfaces are still steel

**Mr. Luos** · 10-14-2010, 07:25 AM

Always heard the discussion....
The LS1 was designed to have a certain amount of weight for the flywheel from the factory. It assisted in keeping everything balanced. Too light can throw off balance.

Don't know how accurate that is, but I could see it being the case.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 10-14-2010, 07:31 AM

I prefer steel also.

**Firebirdjones** · 10-14-2010, 07:41 AM

I used a Fidanza aluminum for a while in my wifes other 6speed car we had. It didn't do anything for ET or MPH at the track, but it worked fine and was a nice piece.

I liked the idea of having the removable steel section, so when clutch changes occured, I didn't have to send the flywheel off to have resurfaced, just simply change the friction steel plate and put it back together with the new clutch. Made clutch changes a simple afternoon affair rather than waiting a day or so on a shop to machine it.

Other than that I got no other real advantage from it.

One thing to consider, these lightweight flywheels tend to work better in a lighter car with more gear that are easier to get moving to begin with, so they don't need a heavy flywheel.

**Spikito** · 10-14-2010, 02:06 PM

Hmm, all 3 of you are people who's opinion i highly value...but I was hoping for a little more concrete info, lol

**konigandy6** · 10-14-2010, 02:21 PM

Aluminum is the weaker metal of the 2. You run a higher risk of warping and cracking with an aluminum over a steel. I run an LS2 steel flywheel in mine. It weighs a couple pounds over stock, but it is good insurance to have when I'm wailing on it.

**Smittro** · 10-14-2010, 02:36 PM

Originally Posted by konigandy6

Aluminum is the weaker metal of the 2. You run a higher risk of warping and cracking with an aluminum over a steel. I run an LS2 steel flywheel in mine. It weighs a couple pounds over stock, but it is good insurance to have when I'm wailing on it.

This...

I only run steel even on my 6er's..

**Spikito** · 10-14-2010, 02:40 PM

Yeah, Mark from KY Speed says that with the LS7 clutch, you need an LS2 flywheel

**konigandy6** · 10-14-2010, 02:53 PM

Originally Posted by Spikito

Yeah, Mark from KY Speed says that with the LS7 clutch, you need an LS2 flywheel

Correct. It came in the LS7 clutch kit I bought.

**Firebirdjones** · 10-15-2010, 11:16 AM

Originally Posted by Spikito

Hmm, all 3 of you are people who's opinion i highly value...but I was hoping for a little more concrete info, lol

What kind of concrete info are you really looking for?

I personally like to experiment with things. I stated the only advantage the aluminum flywheel gave me from personal experiences, (faster clutch changes).
Frankly I don't really fool with them anymore. On my classic cars, 3 of them are 4 speeds, and I run steel flywheels in all of them. A lighter version in 2 of the lighter cars, and a heavier version in the heavy car. Raced a couple of them for 2 years in UMTR racing without issues.

What I concern myself more with are blowproof bellhousings, I like my toes

**35th-ANV-SS** · 10-15-2010, 12:15 PM

Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

What I concern myself more with are blowproof bellhousings, I like my toes

Not too many people are running a scatter shield I found out. i was looking into this at one point. Not too many manufacturer's of them either. I found Mcleod (I believe) to be one of the few that was good.

**Firebirdjones** · 10-15-2010, 01:06 PM

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

Not too many people are running a scatter shield I found out. i was looking into this at one point. Not too many manufacturer's of them either. I found Mcleod (I believe) to be one of the few that was good.

Ya there are alot of (not too smart) cookies out there

Anyone that does any sort of racing, or even spirited driving should have one. Actually required by NHRA anyway at 11.99 or quicker. It's money well spent not only for your safety, but the block saver plate will also save the engine, which sometimes becomes involved if severe. Good way to lose some of those high dollar blocks.
The least you could do is throw the SFI approved blanket over it. Won't save the block but at least you keep your legs.

Once you've had one come apart up through the car it becomes apparent how necessary they are

I keep a stock bellhousing on the wall that had shrapnel pass through it years ago just as a momento

**Smittro** · 10-15-2010, 02:17 PM

+3 on the scatter shield.. There's a video of an ls1 scattering it's clutch. Punched holes and had pieces come through everywhere. Luckly the driver did'nt get hurt but it was closer than I'd like to EVER come..

My old man told me stories about the "good old days" and folks loosing legs and such..

**Mr. Luos** · 10-15-2010, 05:17 PM

Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

Actually required by NHRA anyway at 11.99 or quicker.

They have never even asked me....

Stock bellhousing is made out of tin.

I am one of those cookies.

I do fully expect to add one though when I get to the power levels/ET level I want.

**Spikito** · 10-15-2010, 08:52 PM

Originally Posted by Smittro

+3 on the scatter shield.. There's a video of an ls1 scattering it's clutch. Punched holes and had pieces come through everywhere. Luckly the driver did'nt get hurt but it was closer than I'd like to EVER come..

My old man told me stories about the "good old days" and folks loosing legs and such..

the WS6 with the LS7?

**Smittro** · 10-16-2010, 04:41 AM

Originally Posted by Spikito

the WS6 with the LS7?

I don't remember exactly but it may have been.. I think it was a black one they were just messing around in the parking lot an BOOM! Shtuff went flying everywhere.. I saw the video here @ the site so it's prolly still round I'd imagine..

**Firebirdjones** · 10-16-2010, 07:53 AM

Originally Posted by Mr. Luos

They have never even asked me....

Stock bellhousing is made out of tin.

I am one of those cookies.

I do fully expect to add one though when I get to the power levels/ET level I want.

Who can explain the tech officials

Sometimes they check, sometimes they don't even open the hood. I've been scrutinized for grade "8" bolts even. Other times they don't even ask if I have a helmet....go figure.

But if they really wanted to push the issue, they could tag ya for no blowproof and turn you away.

Some of you guys just like to live on the edge I guess (Luos,,,cough cough)

For a couple hundered bucks and not much effort you could throw an SFI spec blanket over the bellhousing. Can be taken on and off as you please, and it might please tech if you were ever flagged for it. Not to mention it would be safer for the inside of your car, or more importantly, yourself.

For the record, after my incident, I run a blowproof on any stick car now, whether it runs 14's or 10's. Even if I just plan it to be primarily a street car.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 10-17-2010, 06:09 AM

If I got one, it would be a shield not a blanket. The shields are pretty expensive. I know you can't put cost on your legs...feet...life even...just saying they are pricey!