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SS build ideas

This is a discussion on SS build ideas within the Camaro / SS forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Thought I would run one of the ideas I had for my car. I moved from the Chicago subs to ...

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    Junior Member Chronic442's Avatar
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    SS build ideas

    Thought I would run one of the ideas I had for my car. I moved from the Chicago subs to D.C. last year and don't have anyone around me to talk shop with anymore. Which is o.k. it does give me a reason to get involved with the forum.

    Right now my SS is garage kept in Illinois. Last time I took it to the track (Union Grove Wisconsin) I ran a 13.25 @110, the 60 foot time was in the 2 second range. I was getting no traction with bald nittos. Mods as of now are Custom Y-pipe, and dual exhaust, single glass pack muffler, LCAs, and a 02' master cylinder for the clutch.

    I was thinking as far as the engine goes to make it look as stock as possible. I still have to pass emissions, and I like the idea of having good street manners.

    I was reading an article that the LS6 Corvette stock exhaust manifolds flow well, are they any better than the LS1 stock exhaust manifolds. Besides that, my thoughts are LS6 intake w/ EGR delete, roller rockers, better flowing throttle body, under-drive pulleys, and possibly the GMPP hot cam. Following mods I would get the PCM tuned. Mind you my girlfriend inherited a shop, so I can get GM parts at wholesale.

    My 5th gear syncros are shot, so a rebuild with a new clutch is on the way along with SFCs, and a Panhard bar. Those are a definite.

    One of my buddies told me not to fuck with all that and just get a turbo, or get a 150 shot. While that would be easier to get the power I still dig the appeal of a rather stock looking engine. Any thoughts?

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Any FI build is going to cost A LOT. Be prepared to spend several (many) thousands on FI. That doesn't include the other parts you need to upgrade to handle that power: rear end, tires, clutch, transmission, etc.

    150 shot would be the simplest and cheapest route to add HP. Downfall, you need to fill the bottle constantly.

    You can get a mild cam, nice set of heads, and a LS6/FAST intake and put down some great numbers and still have great street manners.

    Best street manners though, with the most power = centrifugal supercharger.

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    Your dealership guy konigandy6's Avatar
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    IMO... make a determination of where you want to go power wise... then the first thing you do is build your car AS IF it had that power. Upgrade the suspension, the rear axle, the transmission/clutch FIRST. And then start adding the power to the engine. You'll be much happier knowing your car can handle the extra ponies instead of breaking something while out cruising.

    If you're going to spend the $$ on a cam, get a custom grind, not the GM hotcam. 228 cams are pretty popular and well proven. (ask me how I know)

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    Junior Member Chronic442's Avatar
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    Suspension and trans would come first. My tranny is pretty much shot as of right now anyway, not to mention the ridiculous amount of wheel hop I get as of now with drag radials. Trans work is already looking at over $1500 for rebuild, clutch, slave/master.

    Thanks for the input. Probably won't start work anytime soon, but I'll post progress when I do get around to it. I didn't really consider a custom grind, but that may be the best way to go to get what I want.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    If you have wheel hop, you can usually get rid of that through suspension tweaking.

    Get LCA's (I believe you mentioned you do have them) and relocation brackets for those LCA's. Mount the LCA to the lowest hole in the relocation bracket.

    Wheel hop is a result of not being able to properly plant the rear tire against the pavement (weight transfer). Lowering your instant center will help with applying that downward force on the rear wheels.

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    Junior Member Chronic442's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    If you have wheel hop, you can usually get rid of that through suspension tweaking.

    Get LCA's (I believe you mentioned you do have them) and relocation brackets for those LCA's. Mount the LCA to the lowest hole in the relocation bracket.

    Wheel hop is a result of not being able to properly plant the rear tire against the pavement (weight transfer). Lowering your instant center will help with applying that downward force on the rear wheels.
    Thanks for the advice, I'm going to look into the relocation brackets when I get back home. I don't want to blow up my rear end.

    If anybody else has ideas for a mild N/A tune, post up. I'm also up for discussing some new ideas.

  7. #7
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Wheel hop really is a rear ends worst nightmare...even for the big boy rears like the 9".

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