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slower with 3.42s instead of 2.73s

This is a discussion on slower with 3.42s instead of 2.73s within the Camaro / SS forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Originally Posted by Firebirdjones I do just as 67Camaro describes. I also leave mine in OD and just run it,,,let ...

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    I do just as 67Camaro describes. I also leave mine in OD and just run it,,,let the car do the rest. Has always worked for me. I used to run my Typhoon and Iroc the same way. Never had any ill affects from it.
    okay i will do that next time. i guess i didn't realize that it made that big of a difference, learn something new everyday.

  2. #22
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Well providing that your car is shifting on it's own at the best rpm. In stock form it's probably okay but since you have changed the gears without a tune,,,I'm not sure the computer would be able to make sense of wheel speed verses rpm. It's not that your speedo is off,,,,but the computer rpm shift points are determined not only by an rpm table,,,but also by a mph table. They both coincide to make the shift. It gets kinda complicated, maybe the computer thinks the car is still moving at 42 mph when the 1-2 shift accurs?? Not sure on that one. I had to play with these tables a little bit but I'm not that versed in them.

    When my car was bone stock the 1-2 shift was accuring at 56-5700 rpm but the 2-3 shift was right at 6050 rpm. First thing I did was start bumping up the 1-2 shift until it shifted as close to 6,000 as I could get it. I had to bump up the speed table and played with the rpm table too.

  3. #23
    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    Do you intend on modding the car, we can give you some good advice, you are definitely gonna need a tune with the gear change already. Why not add exhaust or headers?

  4. #24
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    I agree, get some longtubes, etc. then get it tuned. Doin the headers isnt the funnest thing in the world but, I would definately recommend them.

  5. #25
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    I would say the weather, humidity and air temp. Here in South fla my Formula drags its butt when its hot and muggy. Its very noticeable. On a cool dry night 70 degrees or lower the call pulls like a freight train on steroids.

  6. #26
    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    yea dont manually shift...and even when manually shifting the computer still will look at several variables before it shifts anyways ..however i disagree with 67Camaro...i put it into 3rd and drive the 3 eliminates the OD and i believe it uses all of the clutches
    Actually it's the other way around according to the guy that built the tranny for me. Leaving it in OD engages all the clutches. I trust him as this is his specialty and, as well, he races a 2001 Z28 and that's what he does. The tranny won't go into OD while it's in WOT mode (kind of a holdover from the 700R4 days).

  7. #27
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    Drive and 3 works great for my car..i did notice i ran .12 faster in 3 tho

  8. #28
    rice..a growing epidemic PAT-LS101's Avatar
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    That car should of been running faster than 14.0 with 2.73's it should be around 13.2-13.5 @ 102-105 mph's You should get it tuned and make sure u do a good tune up plugs wires fuel filter etc. And, dont manually shift ur car let the ECM do its job you cant shift faster than a computer. How many miles do u have on it?
    1999 Camaro Z28 w/ sports appearance package & optional 3.23 rear gears - SLP lid, custom Diablo tune. BEST 1/4 MILE TIME W/O MODS: 13.4 @ 102mph. NEW TIMES SOON!


    2002 Camaro Z28 - Stall, gears, exhaust, tuned 12.3 @ 111mph SOLD

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    Quote Originally Posted by PAT-LS101 View Post
    That car should of been running faster than 14.0 with 2.73's it should be around 13.2-13.5 @ 102-105 mph's You should get it tuned and make sure u do a good tune up plugs wires fuel filter etc. And, dont manually shift ur car let the ECM do its job you cant shift faster than a computer. How many miles do u have on it?
    Its got almost 130,000 on it but I bought it when it had 122,000 on it. I also thought I should be running in the 13.5 range. I think I have figured out the problem though, because it just heats up to fast and loses a lot of power, its almost about a half a second in the quarter. I raced my dads 442 which has a 455 in it which should run like a 14.2 in the quarter and the first time I raced him I was a full car length ahead before he even went to hit third gear, but the second time after we drove for like 20 mins to a different road it was dead even and my car was probably 35 degrees warmer which leads me to believe that my car loses a lot of horsepower when it heats up. Both races where from a 10mph roll because my dads car is a 4 speed with street tires. So needless to say I am searching for someone in MN to tune my car and change the fan settings and all that good stuff.

  10. #30
    Senior Member 00z28bubba's Avatar
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    When you go to the drag strip check your density altitude. The da plays a huge role n my times. It is a combination of the weather and altitude that wi
    ll give you a number. The higher the number the slower
    your pass will be. I run a 14.0 at 101 with a 2.3 60ft on 100 degree nights at a half mile above sea level

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1998z28 View Post
    Its got almost 130,000 on it but I bought it when it had 122,000 on it. I also thought I should be running in the 13.5 range. I think I have figured out the problem though, because it just heats up to fast and loses a lot of power, its almost about a half a second in the quarter. I raced my dads 442 which has a 455 in it which should run like a 14.2 in the quarter and the first time I raced him I was a full car length ahead before he even went to hit third gear, but the second time after we drove for like 20 mins to a different road it was dead even and my car was probably 35 degrees warmer which leads me to believe that my car loses a lot of horsepower when it heats up. Both races where from a 10mph roll because my dads car is a 4 speed with street tires. So needless to say I am searching for someone in MN to tune my car and change the fan settings and all that good stuff.
    Tuned by Frost mail order tune, I think that would be perfect for you. I had him tune mine and I think its pretty damn good for a mail order tune. I think you should do headers or whatever first but to each his own.

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by MNZ28 View Post
    Tuned by Frost mail order tune, I think that would be perfect for you. I had him tune mine and I think its pretty damn good for a mail order tune. I think you should do headers or whatever first but to each his own.
    I have thought about doing headers and all that but I don't have the money, I have to pay for school next semester somehow. Plus its just my daily driver and i don't feel like going to crazy with it just keep it simple. I also have a feeling if I put headers in then i would still think it should be faster then I would buy something else and keep going until i have way to much in the car. I figure if I cut myself off now it will be a lot easier than later.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MNZ28 View Post
    Tuned by Frost mail order tune, I think that would be perfect for you. I had him tune mine and I think its pretty damn good for a mail order tune. I think you should do headers or whatever first but to each his own.
    How long did you have to wait for your tune to be done?

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1998z28 View Post
    How long did you have to wait for your tune to be done?
    I shipped mine out on a monday or tuesday and had it back saturday. It was pretty quick turn around.

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    Junior Member JustOut4u's Avatar
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    Like what Pat said, Make sure your plugs and wires have been replaced. Thats the first thing. Maintenance before performance. Get a lid to start, after the maintenance.

  16. #36
    Senior Member Z28Thunder's Avatar
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    Its the DA... (density altitude) Here is a good DA calc

    http://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_da.htm

    If it was humid then heck yes you will slow down.



    If the key to performance potential is cramming more air (and fuel) into the cylinders, then it is important to know exactly how tightly the air molecules are packed together at a given place and time. The way we measure this packing together of air molecules is called air density-how much air there is, by weight, in a given volume of space. In the U.S. system, air density is commonly expressed in pounds per cubic foot (lb/ft3). Total air density is a combination of absolute atmospheric pressure, ambient temperature, and the amount of water in the air.
    Last edited by Z28Thunder; 05-31-2009 at 09:02 PM.

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