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Rear End Question!!

This is a discussion on Rear End Question!! within the Camaro / SS forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Guys: I posted this in the drivetrain section, but only 4 people looked at it so far. So I am ...

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    UberTapping Friction Pimp Anthracis's Avatar
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    Rear End Question!!

    Guys:

    I posted this in the drivetrain section, but only 4 people looked at it so far. So I am posting here to see if I get a better response. I am looking to switch rear ends out. Its time because I don't want to rebuild rear ends every few months after my mods are all done. I know we are all strapped for cash and we need all the help we can get. Here's my question:

    What cars/model year rear ends will work direct bolt-in for our camaros?

    For example: If you went to a junkyard to get a used rear end (complete), what year make and model vehicle would we specify to get a good rear end (like a ford 9" or 12bolt, etc...that would bolt right in)?

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    none of those will bolt right in

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    Member jimmy77611's Avatar
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    F bodies have a unique rear housing due to the fact that the torque arm bolts to it, and it has no upper control arms. You'd have to fabricate something to work.

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    Fabrication it is then. Well, nothing worth having is easy. If it was...everyone wold have it. Oh well, more work for me!

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    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimmy77611 View Post
    F bodies have a unique rear housing due to the fact that the torque arm bolts to it, and it has no upper control arms. You'd have to fabricate something to work.
    X2 because of the torque arm. If your looking for a stronger rear (depending on your fabrication skills) it may be more cost effective to just go aftermarket.

    Otherwise, be more concerned with the axle to axle width to get a suitable candidate that will require the least amount of fabrication. This way you will be able to use more commonly available internal parts for whatever brand you choose to use.

    That is of course unless you choose the "manly-man" way of doing things. i.e., get a 9" nodular case and start from there (not the stamped sheet metal housing parts, just the nodular iron case).

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    Senior Member bills98ta's Avatar
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    UberTapping Friction Pimp Anthracis's Avatar
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    bills98ta: I like the bolt in aftermarket from ebay. But it seems a bit expensive. I could probably build one ready to go for $1100-1500 with limited slip...I think. Or I hope anyway. But good link. I am going to show this to my friend at the shop to see what he thinks. Hey, thanks again.

    Thanks to all of you who posted. This is good stuff. I know I can't be the only one wondering about these things. Thanks a bunch fellas.

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