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Please help me Fix my 99 SS

This is a discussion on Please help me Fix my 99 SS within the Camaro / SS forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Hey everyone, I have a 1999 Camaro SS with 150,000 miles. She still runs pretty strong,no using oil or anything ...

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    Thumbs up Please help me Fix my 99 SS

    Hey everyone, I have a 1999 Camaro SS with 150,000 miles. She still runs pretty strong,no using oil or anything else major as of yet. Ok so im totally going to fix this thing up. Shes been sitting for two years. Nothing majorly wrong, just little stuff as far as looks are cocerned. So my ? is where do I start? Should I get the motor the way that I want it before I get her painted? Also what to do about the motor? I want to have at least 425 HP. Should I get a stroker kit, rebuild the motor, try to find a LS1 OR LS6 with lower miles or just start building on the motor I have. Ive already put all new lights all the way around her, changed the fluids, cleaned the K&N airfilter, and cleaned her inside and out. So what should I do now? I really love my SS and I want/will have her looking, handling, and running awesome! Thanks for your time. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

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    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    We here at ls1.com pride ourselves in helping you(prided member) spend all your money for you.
    Freshen up by all new bushings polyurethane or whatever for sway bars, torque arm, motor mounts etc. Change out the rearend fluid and check to see if the diff is still healthy. You should change the fuel filter if you have not already. 425 is easily attainable with heads and a mild cam on a stock bottom end however no one knows what you will find once you break her open. You can buy a used ls1 or ls-2 for 2000-4000 then throw in your aftermarket stuff. Or you can call some shops like texas speed, lingenfelter, gmmg or what have you call and ask how much it would cost for a new rebuild kit(stroker, forged) and then call a local shop for what they would quote you at. Usually for 2-3k more you can get a new 402 or 408. This should turn out real interesting if you keep us updated.

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    OOHHH YEAH! jray0305usa's Avatar
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    most guys on here will tell you an ls1 is not a rebuildable engine because it can not be bored durring over haul. .. it can be re sleeved but its costly for the money lq4/lq9 iron is the way to go... if you going to do paint and engine id do engine first for the fact your not working around you nice new paint job... another thing is will your drive train up to a par for a new engine... i would start going through everything one at a time...

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    c5z28, sounds good.new bushings for everything. so i can just replace the bushings and not worry about buying new swaybar,torque arms, etc.
    Also will change rearend fluid and check diff tommorow.

    jray0305usa, Yeah I kinda figured that I should wait to get it painted after I have my motor finished, but its just so hard.lol

    So what next???

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    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    At what mileage were the pads and rotors replaced? The rotors need to be replaced at 100k, blanks and hawk pads will stop it nice and fast. Otherwise rebuild the tranny and build the motor.
    Ls-6 motor (can't believe it is really 1,700)
    http://nashville.craigslist.org/pts/1226411014.html
    headers
    http://huntington.craigslist.org/pts/1205085109.html

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    Where are you located at in KY?

    I would be willing to help you with the process

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    c5z28,whats blanks? also where can i get a good deal on some D/S rotors?
    Thats an aewsome deal on that ls6! Has anyone every dealt with that guy?

    Joshiedoom, I'm from Eastern Ky. Do u know where Pikeville is??
    If ur not far away, any help would be appreciated.

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    TJEA Retirement Home Dr.Crash's Avatar
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    if you are thinking about putting money into a stroker, ditch the ls1 block and get either an LQ9 or LQ4. everyone (almost) on here is really helpful. If you are intrested i have price lists of eveything i have put into my car. i can send it to you so you have a base for pricing. not all of my prices are the lowest, but they are pretty close. i can also tell you how each mod affected my car and the difference it made. just let me know if i can help. Welcome

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    Dr.Crash, yes thats sounds awesome! I would greatly appreciate it.

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    TJEA Retirement Home Dr.Crash's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by COKEBOTTLES View Post
    Dr.Crash, yes thats sounds awesome! I would greatly appreciate it.
    PM me your email and i will send it over after i get off of work.

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    Quote Originally Posted by COKEBOTTLES View Post
    c5z28,whats blanks? also where can i get a good deal on some D/S rotors?
    Thats an aewsome deal on that ls6! Has anyone every dealt with that guy?

    Joshiedoom, I'm from Eastern Ky. Do u know where Pikeville is??
    If ur not far away, any help would be appreciated.
    Thats the extreme side of the state. Mark from KY speed would probably help you though.

    If you need any immediate help Ill give you my # though

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    Ok guys, i've got to have brakes and rotors. What DRILLED/SLOTTED rotors r the best for the money? And were do I find them?

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    TJEA Retirement Home Dr.Crash's Avatar
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    Baer makes a pretty nice set. They also make a solid mount 6 piston set-up conversion if u want

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    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by COKEBOTTLES View Post
    Ok guys, i've got to have brakes and rotors. What DRILLED/SLOTTED rotors r the best for the money? And were do I find them?
    Drilled and slotted weaken your rotors, initially they were to allow gases to escape when the pads were made from a different compound. If you want function blanks are what you want.

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    TJEA Retirement Home Dr.Crash's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by c5z28 View Post
    Drilled and slotted weaken your rotors, initially they were to allow gases to escape when the pads were made from a different compound. If you want function blanks are what you want.
    slots alone work fine too without any cracking. the cracking come from the drilling process. it weakens the metal so when it is heated up to much it cracks. slots are fine

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    damn u guys know ur stuff!
    so the rotor manufacture doesnt really matter???

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    TJEA Retirement Home Dr.Crash's Avatar
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    Just like anything else you get what you pay for. I would stick with brembo or baer. thats the only two i have had and its what i trust. i know others have had good luck with some of the cheaper ones, but braking is not where i want to go cheap.

    Brembo's
    http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...ar=&perfCode=S

    Baer's
    http://www.baer.com/products/rotors/eradispeed-plus.php

    These come in slotted only.

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    TJEA Retirement Home Dr.Crash's Avatar
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    do you want just fronts, or all of them?

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    thinking that im going to go with Eibach pro kit 1.3" lowering springs or Hotchkis 1" lowering springs.

    For shocks and struts Bilstein or???
    After that just put new bushings in everything!

    c5z28, changed the rearend fluid.

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    all of them.

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