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Open to suggestions for mods!!!

This is a discussion on Open to suggestions for mods!!! within the Camaro / SS forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Im in the process of trying to figure out where to go from stock. (other than SLP intake & exhaust ...

  1. #1
    Junior Member Raptor Avionics's Avatar
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    RED (M6)
    2001 Camaro SS 13.39@106

    Open to suggestions for mods!!!

    Im in the process of trying to figure out where to go from stock. (other than SLP intake & exhaust done). I am about to do the basics, TB bypass, swap out stock spark plugs (NGK TR55 maybe) Eibach Pro Kit (want the clearance for upcomming headers). Any ideas my way would help as well. I cant decide if I want to do the FAST 90/90 or Headers first. Or just wait until I can do both at the same time. Also, X-Pipe or Y?

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    Life in the Fast lane sunsetorangess's Avatar
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    I guess it all depends on two things, What are your ultimate goals? and Your budget...
    I would start with Sub-frame connectors
    Headers and Ory
    TB bypass is a waste of time.
    If its an auto i would look at a stall...
    I woudlnt waste my money or time on playing with the 90/90 Until you reach upwards of 500 Hp at the wheels, and i would also leave the stock maf alone.
    Since your doing plugs i would say a full tune up if you havent allready done so..
    J
    2001 SS, Its not the car its the Driver that matters....

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    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    2002 Z28 A4 NBM
    Sadly now demodded :(

    And stay away from SLP parts. Except for the lid it's way too much coinage.

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    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    First off nice avatar I believe a bigger pic is in order.
    Secondly the fast is for those with the heads and cam combos.
    A lid is nice, Jet hot, Pacesetter, hooker, Kooks, and ebay headers all work. Do you have an auto or m6? If you like the sound then duals are an option but they don't outflow the y-pipe by much. I have duals and got them strictly for the sound.

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    Junior Member Raptor Avionics's Avatar
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    RED (M6)
    2001 Camaro SS 13.39@106

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by sunsetorangess View Post
    I guess it all depends on two things, What are your ultimate goals? and Your budget...
    I would start with Sub-frame connectors
    Headers and Ory
    TB bypass is a waste of time.
    If its an auto i would look at a stall...
    I woudlnt waste my money or time on playing with the 90/90 Until you reach upwards of 500 Hp at the wheels, and i would also leave the stock maf alone.
    Since your doing plugs i would say a full tune up if you havent allready done so..
    J
    I think subframe connectors/strut tower are next. Your the first person to say to leave the MAF alone. Granatelli's are pricy though. I think I would rather put it toward headers. M6 BTW. Thanks

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    Junior Member Raptor Avionics's Avatar
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    RED (M6)
    2001 Camaro SS 13.39@106

    Quote Originally Posted by c5z28 View Post
    First off nice avatar I believe a bigger pic is in order.
    Secondly the fast is for those with the heads and cam combos.
    A lid is nice, Jet hot, Pacesetter, hooker, Kooks, and ebay headers all work. Do you have an auto or m6? If you like the sound then duals are an option but they don't outflow the y-pipe by much. I have duals and got them strictly for the sound.
    I took that pic last week, thanks. I have a lid/smooth bellows (don't worry didnt pay full price). I know lots of guys run Pacesetter's. Is it cause there cheap or are they actually a decent header? Thanks guys

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    Senior Member 00z28bubba's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raptor Avionics View Post
    I took that pic last week, thanks. I have a lid/smooth bellows (don't worry didnt pay full price). I know lots of guys run Pacesetter's. Is it cause there cheap or are they actually a decent header? Thanks guys
    as far as pacesetters go they are both of what you mentioned.
    http://http://www.gmhightechperforma.../photo_03.html
    start with those. i felt some nice throttle response when i did them. i did them all at the same time except port and polish throttle body. make sure your maintanance is done. subframe connectors are a must for a toy. shop around for springs and shocks until you hit a spot that you like as far as ride height. and maybe some traction stuff aswell(lower control arms, and torque arms). that is assuming your going for a drag toy. if not the lca's and tq arms may not be needed. and look out for your rear end. with an m6 they can take a dive under stock power.

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    TJEA Retirement Home Dr.Crash's Avatar
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    do it right the first time...... Stroker

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    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr.Crash View Post
    do it right the first time...... Stroker
    How many times have i heard this come out of you
    Maybe people wanna get a little more than a 12.6

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    TJEA Retirement Home Dr.Crash's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tatertot91 View Post
    How many times have i heard this come out of you
    Maybe people wanna get a little more than a 12.6
    prob to many times. And i want to go faster than a 12.6 too, but im just so woried about the stock rear end that im to afraid to put some DR's on and drop the clutch. now when i get home from my vacation and the 9" goes in...... all bets are off

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    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr.Crash View Post
    prob to many times. And i want to go faster than a 12.6 too, but im just so woried about the stock rear end that im to afraid to put some DR's on and drop the clutch. now when i get home from my vacation and the 9" goes in...... all bets are off
    You better drive that thing like you stole it, if you wanna have a car thats easy on the rear end, i'll trade ya. Dont worry, i'll cover the shipping.

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    Member blackcar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raptor Avionics View Post
    Your the first person to say to leave the MAF alone. Granatelli's are pricy though. I think I would rather put it toward headers. M6 BTW. Thanks
    I bought a Granatelli when I did my lid. After doing some reading on here I decided to do a back to back test with just changing the maf (after I cleaned the stock one). Long story short I have the stock one back in.
    Last edited by blackcar; 08-27-2009 at 02:05 PM.

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    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackcar View Post
    I bought a Granatelli when I did my lid. After doing some reading on here I decided to do a back to back test with just changing the maf (after I cleaned the stock one). Long story short I have the stock one back in.
    Yeah, i got the stock maf on mine , just did the ends, still wish i would kept the stock ends, from what i hear aftermarket ends lean out your car too much.

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    TJEA Retirement Home Dr.Crash's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tatertot91 View Post
    You better drive that thing like you stole it, if you wanna have a car thats easy on the rear end, i'll trade ya. Dont worry, i'll cover the shipping.
    works for me

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    Senior Member 00z28bubba's Avatar
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    aftermarket mafs have to be tuned for. not worth the coin to buy and have the car tuned as opposed to leaving it stock. in my case i already had the slp maf when i bought the car. since the car was tuned i have had no problems. but again i didnt pay for the maf either. for the little to possibly 0 gain they arent worth the money.

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    Junior Member Raptor Avionics's Avatar
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    RED (M6)
    2001 Camaro SS 13.39@106

    If I go with QTP headers should I even bother getting the catted Y-Pipe? It wouldnt pass I/M anyway right? You have to relocate the cats with any LT header making it not streetable. So with that said should I just run w/o cats and keep my stock set up for when and if I ever need to I/M? Currently I am not required to but will be in about two years. Has anyone ever passed an I/M with QTP cated Y? I Believe they are rated at 200 or something. Bottom line... with money not being an option, I would like to install a setup that will go well with my current config and after heads and cam work. Should I just spend the money now? What set-up and are stainless better than ceramic coated, is it possible to do both? Stainless would hold up better (no rust) but what about the engine bay temps?

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    Senior Member 00z28bubba's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raptor Avionics View Post
    If I go with QTP headers should I even bother getting the catted Y-Pipe? It wouldnt pass I/M anyway right? You have to relocate the cats with any LT header making it not streetable. So with that said should I just run w/o cats and keep my stock set up for when and if I ever need to I/M? Currently I am not required to but will be in about two years. Has anyone ever passed an I/M with QTP cated Y? I Believe they are rated at 200 or something. Bottom line... with money not being an option, I would like to install a setup that will go well with my current config and after heads and cam work. Should I just spend the money now? What set-up and are stainless better than ceramic coated, is it possible to do both? Stainless would hold up better (no rust) but what about the engine bay temps?
    are there emissions test in your alaska? i wouldnt expect them to care about cats or anything like that. but cats dont make for a huge loss in performance. the biggest thing you'll notice is cats make the car quieter. mine are dummy cats which is more or less a way to pass visual inspections. but nevada doesnt care and i bought the car with the current exhaust. which consists of slp lts with slp catted y to slp lm1. the cats are completely empty though.

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    Senior Member bluehawk2000's Avatar
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    I would go with an x pipe and long tubes imo, that is what I am going to do to the t/a, because true duals do flow better than a y pipe. And on top of that some headers, and I found a website you can get a 9'' with whatever gear ration and a drive shaft for 3100 and free shipping. I am going with 3.75 gearing. and save later one for a good head and cam set up, and a ls6 intake.

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    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raptor Avionics View Post
    If I go with QTP headers should I even bother getting the catted Y-Pipe? It wouldnt pass I/M anyway right? You have to relocate the cats with any LT header making it not streetable. So with that said should I just run w/o cats and keep my stock set up for when and if I ever need to I/M? Currently I am not required to but will be in about two years. Has anyone ever passed an I/M with QTP cated Y? I Believe they are rated at 200 or something. Bottom line... with money not being an option, I would like to install a setup that will go well with my current config and after heads and cam work. Should I just spend the money now? What set-up and are stainless better than ceramic coated, is it possible to do both? Stainless would hold up better (no rust) but what about the engine bay temps?
    Don't worry about engine temps alot of people have done well with the ebay stainless headers for $220 alot less than qtp or kooks.

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    Junior Member Raptor Avionics's Avatar
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    RED (M6)
    2001 Camaro SS 13.39@106

    Quote Originally Posted by 00z28bubba View Post
    are there emissions test in your alaska? i wouldnt expect them to care about cats or anything like that. but cats dont make for a huge loss in performance. the biggest thing you'll notice is cats make the car quieter. mine are dummy cats which is more or less a way to pass visual inspections. but nevada doesnt care and i bought the car with the current exhaust. which consists of slp lts with slp catted y to slp lm1. the cats are completely empty though.
    Are u in LVF-body? I used to be. I lived there before I got stationed up in AK I miss it a bit. And yes they have I/M in Anchorage only, but I have seasonal tags so I dont have to.

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