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Newbie in need of your (horsepower) opinions!!!!

This is a discussion on Newbie in need of your (horsepower) opinions!!!! within the Camaro / SS forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Hey fellas, I just bought a 1998 SS on Tuesday. I got it at a great price ($4000). Its not ...

  1. #1
    UberTapping Friction Pimp Anthracis's Avatar
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    18D Cock Diesel
    1999 Z28; 98 SS #2043 RIP

    Newbie in need of your (horsepower) opinions!!!!

    Hey fellas,

    I just bought a 1998 SS on Tuesday. I got it at a great price ($4000). Its not salvaged. It just has 144K on the clock. Plus the guy thought his tranny was going out (but it isn't). I had it checked out and the engine and tranny are fine. It needs some ABS work. It is in the shop now getting that fixed.

    I am now looking to make mods to it. I want to make it break the 400 horse mark. The engine is bone stock except for a K&N filter. I know what I want to do but I want y'all's input! Remember, I am from the People's Republic of California. I have to stay smog legal.

    Here are my thoughts:

    -JBA 1807S Headers (although it would seem to me that the stockers would flow about the same)
    -Random Technologies High flow cats (don't know if these are legal yet!?)
    -SLP cold air intake
    -Bellows (i know y'all dont like it but I already bought it)
    -SLP Lid
    -Fast intake manifold
    -msd coils
    -some kind of programmer (diablosport II by SLP??) or dyno tuning (dont know where to go for this in SAcramento area--any help would be appreciated)
    -Fast fuel rails
    -36lb/hr injectors (don't know if smog legal)
    -it has slp dual/dual exhaust but it seems really quiet to me. How is the flow on them?? I was thinking slp loudmouth or similar found on Berger Camaros.
    -Tranny shift kit and higher stall converter.
    -MSD 8.5mm or 9mm ignition wires.
    -throttle body coolant bypass.

    Any recommendations welcome. Did I mention I Love my SS too!

    Anyways, thanks in advance to your responses. I appreciate them!! FYI--My ultimate goal is to have an SS that is as comfortable on the street as it is in a race. Not that I will ever race it...unless really provoked!! I do not condone street racing as I have seen way too many MVAs involving this particular activity. Therefore, I try to avoid if possible. Remember y'all...drive safe out there. People are nuts. Thanks again

    -Tom

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    Junior Member Hoss93's Avatar
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    Member Corey1987's Avatar
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    if want a Hypertech 3 Programmer for ur 98 SS i have 1 that im trying to sell, Just pm me if ur interested.

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    in doubt tach it out!!
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    BADASSZ28
    get it tuned on the dyno if you want it right after your mods..

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    UberTapping Friction Pimp Anthracis's Avatar
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    18D Cock Diesel
    1999 Z28; 98 SS #2043 RIP

    Thanks

    Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I appreciate your responses.

    -Out

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    Quote Originally Posted by Anthracis View Post


    Here are my thoughts:

    -Fast intake manifold
    -msd coils
    -some kind of programmer (diablosport II by SLP??) or dyno tuning (dont know where to go for this in SAcramento area--any help would be appreciated)
    -Fast fuel rails
    -36lb/hr injectors (don't know if smog legal)

    -Tom
    Do you want 400flywheel or rear wheel?

    The things i quoted above are a waste of $$ in my opinion. For 400hp a fast manifold is overkill. Just get a LS6 intake manifold. The fast requires a new throttle body. The fast 90/90 setup will run you about $1200. A used LS6 is about $300.

    The MSD coils look cool, but are like $500. No power gain. I wouldn't do it unless your current ones are bad.

    I would go full dyno tune, not a programmer. But diablosport can write you up a custom tune, so that is an option.

    And your stock injectors. I think 26lb are the stock size. For 400hp you won't need a fuel upgrade.

    For 400rwhp you can do full boltons and a bigger cam will get you there. Lid, stock ported TB, LS6 manifold, underdrive pulley, Long tube headers, and the cam.

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    Member stanger88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99blueZ View Post
    Do you want 400flywheel or rear wheel?

    The things i quoted above are a waste of $$ in my opinion. For 400hp a fast manifold is overkill. Just get a LS6 intake manifold. The fast requires a new throttle body. The fast 90/90 setup will run you about $1200. A used LS6 is about $300.

    The MSD coils look cool, but are like $500. No power gain. I wouldn't do it unless your current ones are bad.

    I would go full dyno tune, not a programmer. But diablosport can write you up a custom tune, so that is an option.

    And your stock injectors. I think 26lb are the stock size. For 400hp you won't need a fuel upgrade.

    For 400rwhp you can do full boltons and a bigger cam will get you there. Lid, stock ported TB, LS6 manifold, underdrive pulley, Long tube headers, and the cam.

    +1 right on!

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    UberTapping Friction Pimp Anthracis's Avatar
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    18D Cock Diesel
    1999 Z28; 98 SS #2043 RIP

    Smog Legal??

    The mods like the long tubes are not California smog legal I don't think. Am I right? I would love to bolt on a set of LTs.

    Also, what about LS6 heads? And are they CA smog legal? Thanks for your help.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Anthracis View Post
    The mods like the long tubes are not California smog legal I don't think. Am I right? I would love to bolt on a set of LTs.
    yea sorry i forgot you are in Cali. LT's are actually illegal in all 50 states, but you will get away with them in most states.

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    UberTapping Friction Pimp Anthracis's Avatar
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    18D Cock Diesel
    1999 Z28; 98 SS #2043 RIP

    I think that the JBAs 1807 is the only set that works with the smog nazis here. But i think the power gains are negligible at best. Not enough to justify cost. Any thoughts? I think the stock SS manifolds are pretty large as is.

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    well you might gain up to 10hp with shorties. you never answered- did you want 400flywheel hp or 400rwhp?

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    UberTapping Friction Pimp Anthracis's Avatar
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    18D Cock Diesel
    1999 Z28; 98 SS #2043 RIP

    Rwhp

    Sorry...Rear Wheel HP of course!!

    Also, 10 hp is 10 hp...I will go with shorties then. I will also add the electric cutout. What is the best placement for it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Anthracis View Post
    Sorry...Rear Wheel HP of course!!

    Also, 10 hp is 10 hp...I will go with shorties then. I will also add the electric cutout. What is the best placement for it?
    yea if i was in Cali i would get shorties. Since you will have stock cats you should put the cutout before the exhaust goes over the rear axle. On the straight pipe after it merges together from a y.

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    UberTapping Friction Pimp Anthracis's Avatar
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    18D Cock Diesel
    1999 Z28; 98 SS #2043 RIP

    Got it!

    Will do. I am hoping to swap the stock cats out with the random technologies high flow cats.

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    good luck and congrats on getting the SS for such a great price!! Is it an A4 or a M6?

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    UberTapping Friction Pimp Anthracis's Avatar
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    18D Cock Diesel
    1999 Z28; 98 SS #2043 RIP

    A4

    Its an A4. Its good. I think I will add the 4L65E internals to it at some point in the near future. I heard this is a good mod for the A4.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Anthracis View Post
    Its an A4. Its good. I think I will add the 4L65E internals to it at some point in the near future. I heard this is a good mod for the A4.
    Don't forget the best thing you can do for your A4 is a stall converter that will match your cam, and a shift kit. It won't add any power, but it will definately make your car faster!

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    UberTapping Friction Pimp Anthracis's Avatar
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    18D Cock Diesel
    1999 Z28; 98 SS #2043 RIP

    Good point!

    Right on! I knew that!

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    Member luciangage's Avatar
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    these cars already have more horse power than the suspension can handle. i would put all that money into it.here is a post for exotic performance plus.




    Here is a list I compiled together for building an F Body into a very quick car

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Here is a list of items that I recently put together for building up the chassis prior to adding the horsepower. People are always asking the question of whether to go with a head and cam package, or go with a supercharger or turbocharger. There is no way you are to match the power of an ATI ProCharger with a head and cam package unless you use a pretty radical camshaft. Nitrous oxide could be used instead of going the forced induction route, with very good results at a fraction of the cost. A cold air kit would be required if you elect to use nitrous oxide instead of going the forced induction (ATI ProCharger) route. The ATI ProChargers come with a K&N cone filter. With forced induction, such as the ATI ProCharger, the power is always going to be there when you want it, with no nitrous bottles to constantly refill. A turbocharger could be used instead of an ATI ProCharger, but I am not convinced that the turbo kits currently out on the market will stand the test of time. TurboChargers go through extreme heat cycles, which can fracture the turbo housing mounts.
    With the items listed below, your car would be quite capable of routinely running low eleven second 1/4 mile times, or faster, when combined with the M/T Street radial rear tires.

    Everyone has their opinions on what is the best package, and here is mine.

    1. Subframe Connectors - Absolutely necessary to keep your F Body from twisting and stretching. I have seen too many of these cars lose their door to fender gaps from having gone too long without subframe connectors. Subframe connectors will make the car handle better, you'll get fewer squeaks and the car will get better traction.

    2. Torque Arm - BMR, Global West and Spohn all make torque arms that relocate the front mount off of the transmission by relocating the front mount back behind the transmission. The relocation of the front mount relieves the stress from the tailshaft of the transmission that the torque arm places on it, as a result of trying to contain the rear-end and it's rotational stresses. The stock torque arm is a stamped piece of sheetmetal that has broken apart for many people, and it sometimes takes out the driveshaft with it when it goes. By relocating the front mount of the torque arm behind the transmission, the geometry of the rear suspension becomes much better and really aids in hooking up the rear suspension. While replacing the torque arm, check the transmission mount, as the stock torque arm places a huge load on the mount, and the mount breaks quite often when using the factory torque arm. The adjustability of these aftermarket torque arms allows the user to adjust the pinion angle of the rear suspension which aids in finding traction.

    3. Moser 12 bolt - Sooner or later the weak 7.5" Chevy S-10 derived 10 bolt is going to break. I wouldn't waste any money into attempting to build up the 10 bolt, it just doesn't work. There isn't one strong point to the stocker. For those of you with a six speed transmission, the 10 bolt has broken on many M6 cars with stock power. Expect the worse to happen... 3:73 gears in the Moser rear-end is a good compromise, especially when adding a lot of power to the engine.

    4. Driveshaft - The stock GM driveshaft have broken for many enthusiast, both the steel and the 3.0" aluminum GM driveshafts are fairly weak. I recommend an aftermarket 3.5" aluminum driveshaft with a 1350 Yoke with a 1350 U Joint. Combined with the Moser 12 bolt with their supplied 1350 yoke, you will have a strong drivetrain.

    5. Clutch and pressure plate - I recommend the Spec Stage 3 clutch and pressure plate. Expect some chatter for the first 500 miles, then it will be pretty smooth. I would also add the '01-'02 slave cylinder for the older models, and do the "drill mod" to the master cylinder. Do a search on this forum for the drill mod, and you will see what it entails.

    At this point I believe the suspension is capable off supporting a lot of horsepower, and you can go straight to item 14.
    For those of you who are dragstrip bound, I would also add a few additional items.

    6. Adjustable lower control arms - The aftermarket lower control arms are much stouter, and will not flex like the factory lower control arms. Going with adjustable ones will allow the user to center the rear end in the wheelwell. The stock rear end position from the factory tends to be .5" towards the rear of the car. You really won't notice it until larger diameter tires are installed.

    7. Lower control arm relocation brackets - Lower control arm relocation brackets are meant to be used when the car has been lowered, which alters the angle of the lower control arms. We have found that the relocation brackets also help in getting traction in non lowered cars. We use the weld on style that BMR offers.

    8. Panhard bar - The factory pan hard bar is pretty flimsy and additional traction can be found by replacing the factory pan hard bar with a heavier duty aftermarket bar. The rear in these cars tends to sit closer to the right side, and by purchasing an adjustable pan hard bar, the rear-end can be centered in the body.

    9. Strut Tower Brace - Eliminate flexing in the front end by adding an aftermarket strut tower brace. You will also notice that the car will handle better with a strut tower brace.

    10. Battery box relocation - By relocating the battery to the trunk, you will remove a lot of weight off the front of the car and place the weight behind the rear-end, where it will aid in traction. The car will also be able to handle better with the weight relocation.

    11. Rear coil spring air bags - By experimenting with adding more air to the right air bag than to the left one, better off the line traction can be found.

    12. Adjustable shocks and front coil over springs - We use the Hal QA1 12 way adjustable shocks on our cars. It is easy to adjust these shocks for street use, and then readjust them for strip use by simply rotating the 12 way adjustable dial. The Hal QA1 front coil over springs allows the front end height to easily be adjusted.

    13. K member - By replacing the front K member and upper and lower control arms with light weight aftermarket tubular ones, a lot of weight is removed from the front suspension. Since front end weight is removed, better off the line traction and better handling will occur. We have had good success with the BMR parts, and combined with the Hal QA1 shocks and coil over front springs, gives the car a much better chance of getting traction on the starting line.

    14. Headers and cat back exhaust - Everyone has their favorites, but we have grown very fond of Hooker and Flowtech headers, and the Hooker and Magnaflow Cat Back exhaust systems.
    Flowtech and Hooker ceramic coated headers fit very well, with excellent ground clearance. The Flowtech headers are priced very competitively with PaceSetter headers, yet they install and fit much better. The ceramic coatings go a long way towards keeping the exhaust temps in the pipes, keeping the engine bay cooler and improving internal exhaust scavenging. These two brands of headers will give you 2.5" more in ground clearance compared to SLP headers.
    The Hooker and Magnaflow cat back exhaust systems give these cars a good muscular sound that will not drown out your stereo while driving down the road. The exhaust tubing is larger than the stock tubing and is mandrel bent, for better exhaust flow.

    For those of you who want it loud. If you are looking for an exhaust system that will annoy everyone around you, the two above exhaust systems are not for you. The SLP "Loud Mouth" cat back is a good system for those of you who want to be noticed. When we have one of these cars on my dyno with a loud mouth exhaust system, everyone around our area can hear the car!

    15. ATI ProCharger D-1SC eight rib supercharger - Simply the best and easiest way to get 450 to 500 rwhp out of your car in my opinion, when combined with headers and a good cat back exhaust system. The car will still see great part throttle gas mileage, overall driveability will still be excellent, and the power is always there when you want it. At 8 pounds of boost, the car will be very dependable, and with the twin high flow air to air intercoolers, unleaded premium is all you need to use. I recommend the ATI ProCharger D-1SC "tuner" kit, as the D-1SC can handle future mods much better than the P-1SC. You will need 42 lb fuel injectors, a 255 litre in tank fuel pump, and chassis dyno tuning with the "tuner" kit.

    Hopefully this list will help you in your quest for having a quick car! Bob

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Last edited by mrr23 : 01-11-2006 at 07:25 PM.

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    UberTapping Friction Pimp Anthracis's Avatar
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    18D Cock Diesel
    1999 Z28; 98 SS #2043 RIP

    Thumbs up Good Info!

    You offer up good info and some things to consider...that's for sure. Thanks for your input. Good stuff!

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