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New Rotors??

This is a discussion on New Rotors?? within the Camaro / SS forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Where did yall buy your new rotors? I am gonna break down and put on new brakes,bearings and my rortors ...

  1. #1
    I lika da Chevy's LETHALxLS1's Avatar
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    New Rotors??

    Where did yall buy your new rotors? I am gonna break down and put on new brakes,bearings and my rortors are rusted and have grooves)from the previous owner) so its time for new. Thanks!

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    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    Pewter metallic
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    Irotors for me
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    I'd rather be bi than full homo!!!!

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    I lika da Chevy's LETHALxLS1's Avatar
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    If you reccomend them then thats what I am getting. Did you get the slotted/drilled? They wont rust right? Thanks by the way.

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    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    Pewter metallic
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    Mine are drilled/slotted. They are also zinc washed which resists the rusting. A lot of people feel the drilled ones are prone to cracking which may or may not be true. I don't do any autocrossing or hard braking with mine so I have never had a problem with mine. I got them basically for the appearance upgrade. I do recommend them for that reason.

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    I just cruise around in my car so they should be fine. I like how they look on your ride.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    I don't get into the blingy crap so drilled and slotted are not for me, I don't care to look at that stuff. I don't auto cross and generally I am easy on brakes so the stock replacement rotors work just fine for me.

    But a word of caution,,,watch where and what you get. My first set were made in china,,,they didn't have nearly as much meat as the GM pieces, and the cooling fins were less per inch, (about 2/3 as much) needless to say they were warped within 50 miles of very easy street driving. They were removed and a pair of much thicker and better quality GM rotors were installed,,,,now problem is gone.

    Keeping in mind that pad choice also plays a role in this. Organic is what GM originally equipped these cars with,,,they create less brake dust but they generate alot of heat for instant braking response in moderate driving conditions. The extra heat they create will warp cheap foreign rotors.
    I could have went with semi-metallic pads, which don't generate as much heat but they have draw backs too, they create a ton of brake dust and it takes a while for them to heat up and feel like they are grabbing and doing something. Great for auto crossing where you are keeping them hot all the time but suck on the street where they go through cooling cycles. I like instant brake response so Organic is the way for me.

    Pads and rotors kind of play a roll with each other with different effects. For me I found the stock Organic pads and stock GM rotors work just fine for street driving. Cheers. Larry.

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    I lika da Chevy's LETHALxLS1's Avatar
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    Thanks Larry! I agree cheap rotors are not the way to go. I am just looking for a good rotor that wont warp that also looks good through my wheel. My current rotors are rusted and make my wheels look shitty. I was gonna paint them but they have grooves from the previous owner so I figured it would take care of 2 issues at 1 time. If pewter didnt warp his I doubt I will.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Thats cool, I have heard good things about the slotted and drilled rotors. I have never tried them so I can't honestly comment. I can only say that one reason I shyed away from them was because it seems after one time machining them the slots nearly disappear,,,then you loose the effect and the whole reason you bought them. As expensive as they are,,,I would at least like to get 2-3 machinings out of them before the slots dissappear to feel I got my moneys worth. Doesn't seem right to have to buy a pair everytime a brake job is needed. Thats just me though, I am a picky old fart. But I agree,,,good quality goes a long way. Cheers.

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    LOL- Thanks for the insight.

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    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    Never warped mine, never had to be concerned with turning mine and I had these on my vert as well. They have held up well.

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    Member Ryanater's Avatar
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    When you get new rotors always have them turned before you install them. They always get a little warped during shipping. I worked in a machine shop and people would always come in and tell us that their new rotors were warped.

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    No way am I turning new rotors fk that!!! (no offence to u) if they are vibrating when I hit the brakes they are goin back!!

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    Member Ryanater's Avatar
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    1998 WS6, 1969 Camaro

    Back to Korea or wherever they are made.


    The more expensive rotors usually don't have that problem. But I would still turn them. We charge 12.50 to turn both rotors so it is well worth it.

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    How could they be any smoother then being brand new? If you have to turn a rotor thats new its a pos IMO.

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    Member Ryanater's Avatar
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    1998 WS6, 1969 Camaro

    exactly! So either get expensive rotors or get the cheap ones turned. It's not about smoothness its about the rotor being true.

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    Yea- I never was one to go the cheap route on parts. I wont go near a autozone. Its Napa or original GM for me.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    I have had even the new GM rotors have some runout, but nothing to be concerned about. Using a dial gauge with a magnetic base you can check your runout,,,,and GM gives you a spec to be within. Several thousands is usually exceptable. Making sure the back side of the rotor,,,and the hub it mates to is very clean from debri and rust is also critical. Anything inbetween can cause the rotors to have runout as well, and make you think it is warped when in fact it's not mated flat against the hub.
    I always wire wheel mine and apply a little anti seeze.

    Just because you have went through a set of pads and there was no pulsation doesn't mean you can pad slap it and not machine the rotors either. The rotors will have a glaze on them that must be removed for the new pads to seat properly. Just simply pad slapping will give poor brake performance.
    Always machine the rotors, even if it's just a small clean up cut so the new pads have something to seat to.
    Also for good measure I like to install an abrasive pad on my air gun and lightly go over the rotor on both sides to make some circular marks on the rotors, it helps the pads seat faster.

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    I guess you machine a new pressure plate too before putting a clutch in??
    Come on now.

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    A buddy of mine onws a Mieneke and tells me that the cheap rotors don't last well, warping and pedal pulse the leading complaints, he refers to them as white box rotors or no names(no name on the box). If you bring them to his shop he'll send you away.
    In past threads NAPA's stock rotors got high marks. I still have the stock pads and rotors on my 01 SS with 95000+ miles, went to replace them and had more meat on the original pads than the new pads from autozone. I guess they owe me nothing. Let me know how satisfied you are with the change out, and what you went with, please.
    Last edited by SpurSS; 06-24-2007 at 11:04 AM. Reason: incomplete

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    No problem- I am going with the rotors suggested by pewter. Irotors

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