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Issue with car starting

This is a discussion on Issue with car starting within the Camaro / SS forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Yesterday, I started the Camaro to let it run (which I do from time to time since I don't drive ...

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    Consumer of kraut SiggyZ's Avatar
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    Issue with car starting

    Yesterday, I started the Camaro to let it run (which I do from time to time since I don't drive it much) and after running for 3- 5 mins, it suddenly shut off and will not start again. I'm getting a SES light and the engine tries to turn over, but nothing beyond that. I have a 12 disc changer in the car that I hear it shuffling discs, which leads me to think it's something electrical. It's not the battery, as the car tries to start though I did try jumping it with my other car to be sure.

    Any ideas? Should I get my hands on a scanner to check for thrown codes to narrow down the exact problem? Thanks!

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    Now in Summit LT1 Flavor! Y2KArcticSS's Avatar
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    I don't know... sounds to me like your fuel pump might have taken a dump. Do you hear it prime when you turn to the On position?
    Check your fuses as well.

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    Consumer of kraut SiggyZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Y2KArcticSS View Post
    I don't know... sounds to me like your fuel pump might have taken a dump. Do you hear it prime when you turn to the On position?
    Check your fuses as well.
    I haven't listened but will try to soon. How costly is replacing a dead fuel pump in these cars?

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    Now in Summit LT1 Flavor! Y2KArcticSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SiggyZ View Post
    I haven't listened but will try to soon. How costly is replacing a dead fuel pump in these cars?
    Having it replaced by a mechanic? Pretty expensive. I'd be willing to bet $800- $1,000

    If you do it yourself, Rock Auto has the pump assembly, with prices ranging from $100 - $300 depending on the brand.
    I went middle of the road on mine (back when I had my 2000) and put another 100k on it with no issues.
    The problem with doing it yourself is the labor it takes to drop the tank if you don't want to cut the hatch (I assume you don't want to cut on your Z).
    If I remember correctly, you have to drop the exhaust and the rear end to get to the tank to drop it. Been a few years since I've done that replacement.

    I would definitely rule out any possible easier, cheaper solutions first. Definitely see what code is being thrown.

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    Consumer of kraut SiggyZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Y2KArcticSS View Post
    Having it replaced by a mechanic? Pretty expensive. I'd be willing to bet $800- $1,000

    If you do it yourself, Rock Auto has the pump assembly, with prices ranging from $100 - $300 depending on the brand.
    I went middle of the road on mine (back when I had my 2000) and put another 100k on it with no issues.
    The problem with doing it yourself is the labor it takes to drop the tank if you don't want to cut the hatch (I assume you don't want to cut on your Z).
    If I remember correctly, you have to drop the exhaust and the rear end to get to the tank to drop it. Been a few years since I've done that replacement.

    I would definitely rule out any possible easier, cheaper solutions first. Definitely see what code is being thrown.
    I'm no mechanic when it comes to swapping out a fuel pump. I'll certainly scan the codes first regardless. Thanks!

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    Senior Member raynor139's Avatar
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    If u replace it you can get a racetronix fuel pump for not that much more. Think mine was only couple hundred more to replace everything
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    I assume there is gas in the tank? Do you have a spare key you can try?

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    Consumer of kraut SiggyZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by raynor139 View Post
    If u replace it you can get a racetronix fuel pump for not that much more. Think mine was only couple hundred more to replace everything
    Thanks. I can assure you it won't be me replacing the fuel pump, if and when it happens.

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    Consumer of kraut SiggyZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    I assume there is gas in the tank? Do you have a spare key you can try?
    Yes, there's gas in the tank. Why do you say spare key?

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    It could be that your car isn't recognizing the chip in your key, and activating VATS security, which keeps your car from starting. If your spare key doesn't work either, and your security light isn't blinking, it should rule that out as the problem.

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    Consumer of kraut SiggyZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Y2KArcticSS View Post
    It could be that your car isn't recognizing the chip in your key, and activating VATS security, which keeps your car from starting. If your spare key doesn't work either, and your security light isn't blinking, it should rule that out as the problem.
    I don't think I have a spare key to try.

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    Consumer of kraut SiggyZ's Avatar
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    Keep in mind, the car suddenly shut off while it was running. Would a bad key chip cause that?

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    Quote Originally Posted by SiggyZ View Post
    Keep in mind, the car suddenly shut off while it was running. Would a bad key chip cause that?
    I wouldn't think so. I've only had one negative interaction with GM's VATS system, and that was on a 98 GMC Jimmy. It would fluke and not recognize the key, and just flat out wouldn't start until the 15 minute lockout timed out...then you ran a 50/50 shot of it doing the same thing and waiting another 15 minutes. The Security light is usually blinking when VATS is triggered. Also, I don't believe you'd even get a click out of the motor, much less it trying to turn over, so I stick by my original theory of it being fuel starved. My guess is that once it warmed up, the pump got hot and gave out, hence why it died suddenly and wouldn't start back up. Still just a theory without actually being there to diagnose. Another test you could do is at the fuel rail on top of the engine. There is a Schrader valve on the front where you can purge or test fuel pressure. If you have or can obtain a fuel pressure gauge, you can test the pressure. Even if you don't, if you push the valve with the key On (have some shop rags ready so you don't coat your entire engine bay with fuel) and fuel does more of a dribble than a spray, you pretty much know the fault is in the pump. I don't remember the exact number, but I think you should have somewhere in the realm of 55-60lbs of pressure at the rail.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SiggyZ View Post
    Keep in mind, the car suddenly shut off while it was running. Would a bad key chip cause that?
    Nope. My bad.

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