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First Mods

This is a discussion on First Mods within the Camaro / SS forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Hello I have a 2000 camaro SS M6. It is completley stock, these are the mods that I am planning ...

  1. #1
    Senior Member splitfinger09's Avatar
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    Bright Rally Red
    2000 Camaro SS #5075 M6

    First Mods

    Hello I have a 2000 camaro SS M6. It is completley stock, these are the mods that I am planning on doing first. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also at what point will the stock clutch and rearend need to be upgraded? Thanks

    1. BMR Sub-frame connnectors
    2. BMR Full Length Adjustable Torque Arm
    3. Strut Tower Brace
    4. Slp Lid and K&N Filter
    5. Slp Loudmouth cat-back
    6. Ceramic Hooker Headers p/n 2253-1 or Kooks p/n 6501 RHS
    7. Hooker or Kooks ORY

  2. #2
    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    Pewter metallic
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    Quote Originally Posted by splitfinger09 View Post
    Hello I have a 2000 camaro SS M6. It is completley stock, these are the mods that I am planning on doing first. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also at what point will the stock clutch and rearend need to be upgraded? Thanks

    1. BMR Sub-frame connnectors
    2. BMR Full Length Adjustable Torque Arm
    3. Strut Tower Brace
    4. Slp Lid and K&N Filter
    5. Slp Loudmouth cat-back
    6. Ceramic Hooker Headers p/n 2253-1 or Kooks p/n 6501 RHS
    7. Hooker or Kooks ORY
    I always prefer to build from the rear to the front and eliminate the weak areas first. I would be looking to upgrade the rear/clutch right after you finish your exhaust work. Instead of getting a STB at #3, I would get lower control arms instead. You will benefit significantly more with LCAs instead of a STB. Other than that, your list and order looks real good

  3. #3
    Senior Member splitfinger09's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS View Post
    I always prefer to build from the rear to the front and eliminate the weak areas first. I would be looking to upgrade the rear/clutch right after you finish your exhaust work. Instead of getting a STB at #3, I would get lower control arms instead. You will benefit significantly more with LCAs instead of a STB. Other than that, your list and order looks real good
    Thanks for the reply. What do you think about the moser 9 inch? As far as the clutch goes I was looking at the spec stage 3 clutch and pressure plate? After all these mods are completed what then can I do to make my f-body an extremly fast street car?

  4. #4
    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by splitfinger09 View Post
    Thanks for the reply. What do you think about the moser 9 inch? As far as the clutch goes I was looking at the spec stage 3 clutch and pressure plate? After all these mods are completed what then can I do to make my f-body an extremly fast street car?
    The Moser 9 is good. I really don't have any personal experience with clutches so I won't be much help to you on that.

    Define what you mean by extremely fast street car.

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    Senior Member splitfinger09's Avatar
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    Well its a daily driver so it needs to be dependable, but basically i want the most power that i can get. What would i need to be around 500 rwhp and what kind of quarter mile times could i expect?

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    Senior Member slims00ls1z28's Avatar
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    Should be in the 10's with 500 RWHP. How to get there is a whole different ball of wax. The means would depend on how you want them cooked (NA, Supercharged, turbo'd, sprayed) and how much you are willing to spend.

    I got a Moser 9 no probs here yet. I got mine before I did anything major to the engine such as the cam intake headers and nitrous. Could have bought heads and some more stuff for the price but just knowing that it will be there ready makes me feel better about it. Most people I know did just the opposite did major power improvements only to take out the rear.

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    old timer blue02Z's Avatar
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    if you go with an ORY and a loudmouth you will prolly get tired of the raspyness. just a suggestion. also, as Y2K said, your gonna want to beef up your rearend.

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    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slims00ls1z28 View Post
    Should be in the 10's with 500 RWHP. How to get there is a whole different ball of wax. The means would depend on how you want them cooked (NA, Supercharged, turbo'd, sprayed) and how much you are willing to spend.

    I got a Moser 9 no probs here yet. I got mine before I did anything major to the engine such as the cam intake headers and nitrous. Could have bought heads and some more stuff for the price but just knowing that it will be there ready makes me feel better about it. Most people I know did just the opposite did major power improvements only to take out the rear.
    We think alike, build the car to handle the power(suspension, tranny, rearend etc.)

    The only thing lots of HP that you can't use is good for is bragging rights

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    Senior Member splitfinger09's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slims00ls1z28 View Post
    Should be in the 10's with 500 RWHP. How to get there is a whole different ball of wax. The means would depend on how you want them cooked (NA, Supercharged, turbo'd, sprayed) and how much you are willing to spend.

    I got a Moser 9 no probs here yet. I got mine before I did anything major to the engine such as the cam intake headers and nitrous. Could have bought heads and some more stuff for the price but just knowing that it will be there ready makes me feel better about it. Most people I know did just the opposite did major power improvements only to take out the rear.
    Well I would prefer to stay NA, but what would be the best for the engine in the long run? Im willing to spend whatever it takes right now. Yeah I have heard really good things about the moser 9.

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    Senior Member splitfinger09's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blue02Z View Post
    if you go with an ORY and a loudmouth you will prolly get tired of the raspyness. just a suggestion. also, as Y2K said, your gonna want to beef up your rearend.
    If I do get tired of the sound, can I bolt in a muffler in place of the resonator?

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    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    I put a bullet in place of my resonator when I had that setup, it helps a lot with the raspyness.

  12. #12
    Junior Member blkmgc1's Avatar
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    if your looking for 500 rwhp get a big motor cubic inch wise with big heads and a very big cam and the valve train to with it all call speed inc they can hook ya up with good prices and what to buy. and yes do the rear end first otherwise like the other guys said you'll break it all later. the spec clutch you were looking at is good also the center force larger diameter is good as well. i got a buddy that has the bigger centerforce and he loves it no clutch chatter at all which with the smaller one that i had there was alot of chatter hope that helps happy building.

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    -S-howtime -S-teele (SS)™ showtimesteele99SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS View Post
    I put a bullet in place of my resonator when I had that setup, it helps a lot with the raspyness.
    a bullet,wheres that go and what is it lol, cuz i have slp headers and slp ORYP Slp cat and a LM1 so would that help with the raspyness
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    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by splitfinger09 View Post
    Well its a daily driver so it needs to be dependable, but basically i want the most power that i can get. What would i need to be around 500 rwhp and what kind of quarter mile times could i expect?
    *said in Obiwan voice* Use the search button padawan!

    BTW: How you gonna avoid the Smog Nazi's out there?

    And the 1st mod should be weld in SFC's (just like your 1st post) so you don't twist the car into a pretzel.

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    Senior Member splitfinger09's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 67CamaroRSSS View Post
    *said in Obiwan voice* Use the search button padawan!

    BTW: How you gonna avoid the Smog Nazi's out there?

    And the 1st mod should be weld in SFC's (just like your 1st post) so you don't twist the car into a pretzel.
    I have used the search button...alot actually, but theres just so many different ways to make power i just dont know the best. I was at the shop the other day and the guy there recommended the rear mount sts turbo system. I dont really like the sound of turboing my car I would really rather stay NA. I am moving to broken arrow, Ok in september so no need to worry about smog. Also I have an appointment wednesay morning at 10 to install my SFC's.

  16. #16
    Senior Member splitfinger09's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blkmgc1 View Post
    if your looking for 500 rwhp get a big motor cubic inch wise with big heads and a very big cam and the valve train to with it all call speed inc they can hook ya up with good prices and what to buy. and yes do the rear end first otherwise like the other guys said you'll break it all later. the spec clutch you were looking at is good also the center force larger diameter is good as well. i got a buddy that has the bigger centerforce and he loves it no clutch chatter at all which with the smaller one that i had there was alot of chatter hope that helps happy building.
    Thanks for the reply ill give them a call. What do you think is the most rwhp i can get with a h/c combo with full exhaust on the stock cubic inches?

  17. #17
    Rice Killa JwMonE99's Avatar
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    Hey I feel kind of late asking this but i guess im never going to know till I ask. What is LT and ORY stand for?

  18. #18
    Senior Member splitfinger09's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JwMonE99 View Post
    Hey I feel kind of late asking this but i guess im never going to know till I ask. What is LT and ORY stand for?
    LT-Long Tube Headers. ORY-Off Road Y Pipe.

  19. #19
    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by showtimesteele99SS View Post
    a bullet,wheres that go and what is it lol, cuz i have slp headers and slp ORYP Slp cat and a LM1 so would that help with the raspyness

    The Loudmouth resonator would have to be cut out and the bullet would we welded into the resonators place. It cuts down on the raspyness.

  20. #20
    Rice Killa JwMonE99's Avatar
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    Ok I know the difference between the X and H pipe, H pipe better sound with more torque, X pipe more Hp, what does the Y pipe do?

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