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crate engine

This is a discussion on crate engine within the Camaro / SS forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; how much heavier is the iron block?...

  1. #21
    Aw shucks. bluefields88's Avatar
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    how much heavier is the iron block?

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    Senior Member 00z28bubba's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01ssSLP View Post
    I have a LQ9 just sitting that i got off ebay but the shop that was going to to built me 370 motor out of it wanted about 9 grand! There's no way im spending that much at this point.
    You don't have to get it fully forged to install it and run it. Unless there is a problem with the lq9

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    Senior Member 00z28bubba's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluefields88 View Post
    how much heavier is the iron block?
    80lbs

  4. #24
    Aw shucks. bluefields88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 00z28bubba View Post
    80lbs
    ouch.

  5. #25
    Senior Member 00z28bubba's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluefields88 View Post
    ouch.
    no ouch. especially on a 3500 lb car. that 80 can easily be dropped in suspension upgrades

  6. #26
    Aw shucks. bluefields88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 00z28bubba View Post
    no ouch. especially on a 3500 lb car. that 80 can easily be dropped in suspension upgrades
    That's true, but that would cost over a grand. the price difference would probably be more than just getting an aluminum block.

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    Senior Member 00z28bubba's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluefields88 View Post
    That's true, but that would cost over a grand. the price difference would probably be more than just getting an aluminum block.
    thats only if your going a harcore race set up though. 80 lbs compared to 3500 in hardtop/t-top forms or 3800 in verts. thats not a huge gain. that is a skinny driver vs a big driver.

  8. #28
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Drop a tubular K-member in there if you are worried about a measly 80 lbs. Shucks thats only the difference of a fat passenger verses a skinny passenger

    In any event, there are many other advantages to the iron blocks. For one, the aluminum blocks need to be resleeved 99% of the time, and that is extremely costly. So once used up they are nearly useless in my eyes.
    A cast iron block on the other hand can simply be bored. So when the time comes for a refresh down the road, a simple bore/hone and it's ready for another round without swapping blocks again.
    Really when you think about it, long term, you really save alot of coin, even if you spend the money on a tubular K-member.

  9. #29
    Aw shucks. bluefields88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 00z28bubba View Post
    thats only if your going a harcore race set up though. 80 lbs compared to 3500 in hardtop/t-top forms or 3800 in verts. thats not a huge gain. that is a skinny driver vs a big driver.
    but it's in the front end. That would be a big difference through turns I think. Maybe you could do a tubular k-member and shave off 45 pounds, but that would be almost $500. I still say go aluminum. There's also heat benefits with aluminum compared to iron.

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    Senior Member 00z28bubba's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluefields88 View Post
    but it's in the front end. That would be a big difference through turns I think. Maybe you could do a tubular k-member and shave off 45 pounds, but that would be almost $500. I still say go aluminum. There's also heat benefits with aluminum compared to iron.
    well the reason i stated lq9 short block in the first place was for the op to get a running engine in his car. road racing would be a completely different beast. and more than likely you will change out alot more than just the k-member. which would easily get rid of that 80 lbs assuming your considering an iron block vs aluminum in that set up.

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    Aw shucks. bluefields88's Avatar
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    I'll agree that if the op wants to spend the least amount possible that he should get an iron block, but he should know that his car wont feel the same handling wise unless he throws money into the suspension. that seem like a good compromise?

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    4200 bucks for a stock engine. OUCH!

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    Quote Originally Posted by bluefields88 View Post
    I'll agree that if the op wants to spend the least amount possible that he should get an iron block, but he should know that his car wont feel the same handling wise unless he throws money into the suspension. that seem like a good compromise?
    from what i gather he wont notice that little 80 lbs on any turns under current circumstances.

  14. #34
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    if it was me id do iron... cost/mod friendly and can reuse alot of the old parts and durability isnt a concern ... if you were running prostock or trans am racing 80 would matter but in a street car its not gunna matter...

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    Quote Originally Posted by 00z28bubba View Post
    from what i gather he wont notice that little 80 lbs on any turns under current circumstances.
    Exactly, I don't think any of us here claim to be Mario Andretti, I sure dont. None of us are going to tell the difference. And like mentioned, it's easily compensated for if it bothers someone that much.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jray0305usa View Post
    if it was me id do iron... cost/mod friendly and can reuse alot of the old parts and durability isnt a concern ... if you were running prostock or trans am racing 80 would matter but in a street car its not gunna matter...

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    Soem of you jsut say get a tubular k member and you save almsot the same weight. You do know you could still swap it out running alum block and save yourself 160lbs then over a iron block lol. He could get it in and all done for under his price of 6000.

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zinergy View Post
    Soem of you jsut say get a tubular k member and you save almsot the same weight. You do know you could still swap it out running alum block and save yourself 160lbs then over a iron block lol. He could get it in and all done for under his price of 6000.
    The idea was to get away from the aluminum blocks and use the iron though. Honestly I wouldn't even worry about the tubular K-member and just live with the extra 70 lbs. of the iron block. Like I said,,,that's just the difference of a fat chick or a skinny chick in the passenger seat. I'm willing to bet some of us could even cut out the cheese burgers and make up some of that weight difference
    I mean who really cares, like someone else mentioned,,,if you are NHRA class racing within a rule structure, or SCCA racing, then I can see being picky about weight. But on a street car that we are all just playing around with???? Seems pointless to me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    The idea was to get away from the aluminum blocks and use the iron though. Honestly I wouldn't even worry about the tubular K-member and just live with the extra 70 lbs. of the iron block. Like I said,,,that's just the difference of a fat chick or a skinny chick in the passenger seat. I'm willing to bet some of us could even cut out the cheese burgers and make up some of that weight difference
    I mean who really cares, like someone else mentioned,,,if you are NHRA class racing within a rule structure, or SCCA racing, then I can see being picky about weight. But on a street car that we are all just playing around with???? Seems pointless to me.

    Then modding you car is pointless if loosing weight is. Most mods are done to make a car faster, well loosing weight makes you faster too. Now 80lbs isnt much true, but add that to future mods and you could save up to 200-300lbs which is .2-.3 in the 1/4miles just off weight. And the best thing is you can lose that weight and still have all you interior and comfort accessorys. Or make up for the added weight of a 9inch or 12 bolt.

    Now i cna see why people would jsut go with a cheaper iron block, but some of you make it sound like alum block engine need to be resleeved every year. A properly built one will last you damn near as long as a iron.

  20. #40
    Senior Member 00z28bubba's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zinergy View Post
    Then modding you car is pointless if loosing weight is. Most mods are done to make a car faster, well loosing weight makes you faster too. Now 80lbs isnt much true, but add that to future mods and you could save up to 200-300lbs which is .2-.3 in the 1/4miles just off weight. And the best thing is you can lose that weight and still have all you interior and comfort accessorys. Or make up for the added weight of a 9inch or 12 bolt.

    Now i cna see why people would jsut go with a cheaper iron block, but some of you make it sound like alum block engine need to be resleeved every year. A properly built one will last you damn near as long as a iron.
    Op wants his car running quick and cheap.

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