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Auto headlights

This is a discussion on Auto headlights within the Camaro / SS forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; How do you dis-able the night time auto headlight feature that comes on when the e-brake is dis-engaged??...

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    Question Auto headlights

    How do you dis-able the night time auto headlight feature that comes on when the e-brake is dis-engaged??

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    Mike The Guz's Avatar
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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Just run a jumper wire on the optic sensor in the middle of the dash. So as to bypass the sensor. Then the headlights work with the switch,,just as they should. Pretty simple to pop up the plastic and do it from the top. Takes me about 5 minutes.

    I've done this on all of our 4th gens and it works just fine.

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    Explains everything. Thank you.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Just run a jumper wire on the optic sensor in the middle of the dash. So as to bypass the sensor. Then the headlights work with the switch,,just as they should. Pretty simple to pop up the plastic and do it from the top. Takes me about 5 minutes.

    I've done this on all of our 4th gens and it works just fine.
    you still have drl function melting your parking light sockets and stuff that way though, right?

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    Quote Originally Posted by dklowrider View Post
    you still have drl function melting your parking light sockets and stuff that way though, right?
    Yes the yellow parking lights still stay on. I've never had a problem with them melting though

    All the wire jumping on the sensor does is make the headlights themselves work like normal using the headlight switch. That function literally drove me nuts. It also allows you to run at dusk with just the foglights running.

    I'm not sure how you would go about turning off the parking lights, never looked into it. Probably a bit more involved.

    I would guess if you jumped the wire at the parking brake it would work,,,but then you may have the parking brake light illuminate in the dash all the time as well???? Not sure.
    Last edited by Firebirdjones; 06-02-2009 at 07:26 PM.

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    My buddy always just kept his ebrake pulled up one notch, never hurt anything and he is a GM and Mercedes certified technician.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Yes the yellow parking lights still stay on. I've never had a problem with them melting though


    I'm not sure how you would go about turning off the parking lights, never looked into it. Probably a bit more involved.
    There is a pink wire to the drl-box you can cut or wire a switch in there, so you can take control of the drl also.

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    Quote Originally Posted by swisscheese View Post
    There is a pink wire to the drl-box you can cut or wire a switch in there, so you can take control of the drl also.
    must be another thread somewhere, i just saw it recently, but it shows you the drl/auto headlight module behind the radio. just pull your radio out and in the opening to the right side is a black box w/2 plugs. unplug the smaller one on the right and there goes the auto headlamps and drl. only side effect is i think a4 cars lose the e-brake warning light, and m6 loses the inside hatch release. i cant understand why your sockets arent burnt cuz the drl is not parking lights its your turnsignal filament thats used. much brighter and also hotter. my sockets were black and my lens housing even had a melted spot. but then thats after 110k miles too.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dklowrider View Post
    must be another thread somewhere, i just saw it recently, but it shows you the drl/auto headlight module behind the radio. just pull your radio out and in the opening to the right side is a black box w/2 plugs. unplug the smaller one on the right and there goes the auto headlamps and drl. only side effect is i think a4 cars lose the e-brake warning light, and m6 loses the inside hatch release. i cant understand why your sockets arent burnt cuz the drl is not parking lights its your turnsignal filament thats used. much brighter and also hotter. my sockets were black and my lens housing even had a melted spot. but then thats after 110k miles too.
    Oh ya I did try that once. It renders the hatch release useless so that won't work for me. No biggy though,,thanks. I'd have to find another way.

    Not sure on the burning part. I had to replace a bulb a while back and removed them both to apply a generous amount of dielectric grease. Maybe that is aiding as a heat sink as well. But my sockets and housing looked great.

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    Quote Originally Posted by swisscheese View Post
    There is a pink wire to the drl-box you can cut or wire a switch in there, so you can take control of the drl also.
    Can it be just that simple??? Removing the pink wire and that's it?? It doesn't render anything else inoperative??

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    For the M6 cars, if you unplug the the C2 connector completely, does it render the hatch release useless for just the in car button, or can it still be released using a key fob?

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    I disabled the auto headlight feature in the link that I posted. I did this about 3 years ago and have had no issues. I kept the DRL's as I like the look of the DRL's on my camaro.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Poppn View Post
    For the M6 cars, if you unplug the the C2 connector completely, does it render the hatch release useless for just the in car button, or can it still be released using a key fob?
    im pretty sure its only the dash mounted button. remote should work fine. easy enough to find out though. im a4, so i dont know for sure.
    Last edited by dklowrider; 06-03-2009 at 05:29 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Can it be just that simple??? Removing the pink wire and that's it?? It doesn't render anything else inoperative??
    i never heard that one. i did see an in depth post on this once that shows inside the module where you either solder a jumper wire or make a solder bridge between two terminals.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dklowrider View Post
    im pretty sure its only the dash mounted button. remote should work fine. easy enough to find out though. im a4, so i dont know for sure.

    yea i suppose i'll just give it a try and report back here for the m6 guys

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    Quote Originally Posted by dklowrider View Post
    i never heard that one. i did see an in depth post on this once that shows inside the module where you either solder a jumper wire or make a solder bridge between two terminals.
    Ya I was just wondering. Swisscheese mentioned it. But I don't want to be a guinea pig. Definately don't want to go cutting wires.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Ya I was just wondering. Swisscheese mentioned it. But I don't want to be a guinea pig. Definately don't want to go cutting wires.
    hardest part is getting your hand in to release the clip and pull the plug. if you dont like it just plug it back in.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Can it be just that simple??? Removing the pink wire and that's it?? It doesn't render anything else inoperative??
    When I bought the car, the DRLs where inoperative because of our laws here in Switzerland.
    I just wanted the original look with the DRLs back and took a look at the wiring to the drl-module. the only thing that was cut was the pink wire. I reconnected it with a switch between and bam: the DRLs were on.

    Just took a look at the holy bible (helms manual). The pink wire feeds the right and left turn relays in the DRL-module. So I assume when they are inop. then the whole thing doesn't work anymore and is turned off
    Last edited by swisscheese; 06-04-2009 at 12:53 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dklowrider View Post
    hardest part is getting your hand in to release the clip and pull the plug. if you dont like it just plug it back in.
    Ya that renders the trunk release inop.

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