The 9" swap from TSP= >:-l

**Eganslp** · 10-24-2010, 07:03 PM

Lol k so this weekend was fun I began to take out my poopie rear and put the ford rear in it and I'm a diehard chevy guy and my buddy leans more towards ford but drives a Malibu but so anyway I digress we go to your average speed shop and hear it from everybody in there, lol Oh it takes a ford to move that chevy huh? And so on and so fourth but after getting ripped on for about 5 min lol ok who am I kiddin the whole time i was there they are questioning putting the bearings cuz the I needed this plate form my other rear which I found out was my ebrake so I said ok I get it and get the bearings pressed on bc the guy at moser never did it nor did they put it together with piece in the first place so it could've been an easier swap, but no no they make u guess the whole way with no instructions or anything and on top of that they never painted it but I got some stickers so awesome not only did I spend ooh I think somewhere near $3100 it didn't even come finished(together and painted) so I guess the jokes on me so don't order through Texas speed & Performance cuz they rape me for an unfinished rear. oh they charged me truck freight to which was I think $233 to ship truck freight ha so I guess that's why a UPS truck showed up out front Right handing me box after box lol I'm like damn I'm getting my engine parts already nice that's what's up. I open up it's my rear so I'm like WTF so much for truck freight bastards so I feel I'm owed money or something then, any of you agree? I also had to take apart my old rear just to get my new rear to work so let me ask you this why would you buy a WHOLE NEW Rear? to tear apart your old one to make the new one work? cuz I don't think so it should be plug and play right well not in this case the f'n center section yoke doesn't even fit my driveshaft's so now that's even more money to go get someone to piece together a ford/chevy u-joint idk maybe it's just me but I will never order a rear through TSP again (whom goes through moser anyway) But when you clearly choose everything that has to do with stock rear and nothing still doesn't line up. theres a problem and definitely a cheaper and easier out there trust me cuz I found out the hard way so if you agree with me please bump this so some other poor misguided fool doesn't make the same mistake I did and it's ashame cuz they seemed like really kool guys I'm mean really kool To talk to about this kind of stuff and when it came to ordering their parts for my engine they really helped me but they f'd me good wit the rear that's not what I was expecting especially when you spend a whole loan them for $9500 it jus sucks that's all but that's life I guess nothing can be easy huh

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**zmg00camaross** · 10-24-2010, 07:34 PM

Holy shit, Its not TSP fault at all. Thought everbody knew the rear dont come assemblied or painted which is a option I do believe. And a stock u-joint wont fit in a 1350 yoke which is properly on your 3rd member you purchased which in that case you need the conversion u-joint/aftermarket driveshaft. Should have dont more research I do believe before you purchased. Unless I am not understanding that huge paragraph of a run on sentence.

**Eganslp** · 10-25-2010, 05:06 PM

Yea its def. a huge run on sentence. lol!! I'm typing this from my iphone so I'm just saying it in my head as i type. But as I was saying about TSP I like them. They helped me a whole alot with my engine shit, but I have no idea when it came to the rear of the car. Also told them that, so I figured he knew what to look out for when I told him I'm running the stock setup. So that is the stock driveshaft, brakes, standard length ya know cuz like I said I don't know what I'm doing. I just took out a loan called them up an said hey this's what I'm looking to do. I mean come on, $3100 for a rear is ridiculous in which I didn't find out until after I bought the thing. This thing should've been painted and completed with new ebrake mounts well thats at least what ppl at the speed shop was saying. That I couldve got a whole rear for under that and it be completed. I mean I do understand where your coming from and sorry fot that big ass mess of a paragraph, but if I spend that kind of money when I get it it shouldn't have to take more money to put it in myself except for some fluids. But maybe that's just me.

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**zmg00camaross** · 10-25-2010, 06:43 PM

Iphone Makes sense lol done it on my Ipod touch. It does sound expensive since you propely could have got a Midwest chassis Fab 9 inch for around that price assembled. But none the less I would take it as a lesson learned, Myself have bought 2 9inchs in the last two years

and spent about $6500 one I sold to recoup about a $1000, I forgot the part# for the conversion U-joint you need but you can do a search and find it, Is the rear already installed?

**Rk ws6** · 10-25-2010, 06:53 PM

napa #447 for 1350 ujoint to mate stock driveshaft

**Rk ws6** · 10-25-2010, 07:00 PM

Originally Posted by zmg00camaross

Holy shit, Its not TSP fault at all. Thought everbody knew the rear dont come assemblied or painted which is a option I do believe. And a stock u-joint wont fit in a 1350 yoke which is properly on your 3rd member you purchased which in that case you need the conversion u-joint/aftermarket driveshaft. Should have dont more research I do believe before you purchased. Unless I am not understanding that huge paragraph of a run on sentence.

agreed

**Eganslp** · 10-28-2010, 10:54 AM

Thanks guys. And for the rear yea its in there. My buddy and I are putting it in and at least he knows what he's doing. I'm just waiting for the driveshaft to be completed cuz you need to get it rebalanced after you put the new joints in. I didn't know this but I had gone to a heavy duty truck fab. facility called CCC in folcroft, Pa. The guy there his name is Rodney Schwartz driveline specialist(800-926-3652) for 28 years. Trust me this man knows his shit! Told me once you pay for the adaptor u-joint to go In you should do he front too, so everything runs like new. Also get it rebalanced bc of the size difference in bearing on the adaptor joint. He also told me that my shit was out of wack anyway so he had to do a little more fabrication on it. B/c of the end play or something I forget what he called it, but it was .055" for the tranny side and .065" for the yoke side when it's supposed to be .050" on both at max play or throw but im getting done today for $170 which is a decent price he help me out alot with that. Also guys I'm not a hundred percent sure but I think he gave me a different number for the joints. Being that it is an aluminum driveshaft you have to get the different bearings that don't rust the aluminum. I think the #447's are for the steel but I will definitely keep you's posted today I'll get all the numbers and specs from the guy for everyone cuz there just good to have Justin Case(lolol that made me chuckle) but anyway I'll let ya's know I'll add it on here and put it up under (the ford 9" part two). Ha damn this rear is a pain in the ass but its going to be so worth it when I'm done.

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