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  1. #1
    Lead Foot mammoth713's Avatar
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    2000 Z28 M6

    2000 z28 clutch issues... need help!

    Having issues with clutch pedal in my 2000 camaro z28. Has 82k miles. I drew a diagram to help explain whats going on (I have searched the forums for someone with this same issue and have not found it). I think I wanna try replacing the master cylinder first before doing a whole clutch swap. What master cylinder should I get and where should I buy it? I saw there are adjustable master cylinders but I think it's overkill for my purposes. Do you think a master cylinder swap replacement would maybe cure my problem?



    In the event I do need a whole clutch swap, should I get an LS6 or LS7 kit? Both will work on my car right? Is the LS6 kit lighter? I have no intentions of increasing the car's horsepower so I'm fine if I used something like the ls6 clutch.

    Last edited by mammoth713; 09-13-2014 at 11:25 AM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member raynor139's Avatar
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    2002 Trans Am WS6 M6

    Quote Originally Posted by mammoth713 View Post
    Having issues with clutch pedal in my 2000 camaro z28. Has 82k miles. I drew a diagram to help explain whats going on (I have searched the forums for someone with this same issue and have not found it). I think I wanna try replacing the master cylinder first before doing a whole clutch swap. What master cylinder should I get and where should I buy it? I saw there are adjustable master cylinders but I think it's overkill for my purposes. Do you think a master cylinder swap replacement would maybe cure my problem?



    In the event I do need a whole clutch swap, should I get an LS6 or LS7 kit? Both will work on my car right? Is the LS6 kit lighter? I have no intentions of increasing the car's horsepower so I'm fine if I used something like the ls6 clutch.

    Probably need a new master cylinder. Don't use stock parts on this one. Get a tick performance master cylinder. Fixes the issues the stock master cylinder has. You will be much happier when you do. All of us have been.

    As for if you need a new clutch just get the LS7 clutch. It's pretty much a direct replacement. Typically everyone gets this one if they are not going with a monster or mcleod or something else. Still has the stock feel and holds up better.
    Mods - Lid, Skip Shift Eliminator, MGW shifter, UMI SFCs, Founders Lower Control Arms, Founders Panhard Bar, Founders Adj. Torque Arm, UMI Torque arm mount, MWC Drive shaft safety loop, KONI Yellows, Strano Springs, Strano Sway bars, UMI Upper and lower A Arms, 160 thermostat, TSP headers and TSP true duals Monster stage 2 clutch, racetronix fuel pump, Strange S60 rear axle and tune by Frost.

  3. #3
    Lead Foot mammoth713's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by raynor139 View Post
    Probably need a new master cylinder. Don't use stock parts on this one. Get a tick performance master cylinder. Fixes the issues the stock master cylinder has. You will be much happier when you do. All of us have been.

    As for if you need a new clutch just get the LS7 clutch. It's pretty much a direct replacement. Typically everyone gets this one if they are not going with a monster or mcleod or something else. Still has the stock feel and holds up better.
    the tick perf master cylinder is compatible with LS6/LS7 clutches? What slave cylinder works best with it?
    2000 Camaro Z28 M6: LM1, LID, KONI 4/3 SHOCKS, STRANO SPRINGS, UMI ADJ PHB, UMI STB, UMI 2PT SFC, UMI SWAY BARS.

  4. #4
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    2000 z28 clutch issues... need help!

    Tick MC works with all clutches while not all clutches work well with the Tick MC.

    Self adjustable clutches like the LS7 clutch only work when the clutch is new. If you install the LS7 clutch first than later on install the Tick MC you'll have some issues but if both installed new no issues.


    In regards to the slave get a stock gm slave cylinder. It seems to work best for all applications under 600ftlbs of tq. Thats more than the LS7 clutch is rated for and well over the stock clutch.
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/

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    6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.73 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

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  5. #5
    Veteran Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    That very tight disengage area in the diagram is the same issues we had with our 2000 SS. My wife wouldn't even drive it like that, and I admit it was a pain in the ass to drive.

    I prefer my engagement closer to the top just past half pedal travel. The adjustable master cylinder did that for us and was the best add on for a hydraulic system like this. Should have been adjustable from the factory in my opinion anyway.

    As far as clutches, everyone goes for the LS7. I however don't care for that "auto" adjustable pressure plate. So I avoid those clutches. Many years back I installed an LS6 clutch in my wifes car. With a small cam, LS6 intake and some other bolt ons. The car traps 110-112 mph in the heat and makes enough power to go low 12's. The clutch has held up just fine. My favorite clutch setup is Centerforce, and that's what will go in the car next time.

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