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WANTED: LS6 Intake Manifold....!!!!!

This is a discussion on WANTED: LS6 Intake Manifold....!!!!! within the Parts Wanted / Trade forums, part of the Sponsors Group Pricing and Parts Review category; Hello, My 2001 Camaro SS threw a rod (At start-up) through the block and oil pan at 26,600 original miles. ...

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    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    WANTED: LS6 Intake Manifold....!!!!!

    Hello,

    My 2001 Camaro SS threw a rod (At start-up) through the block and oil pan at 26,600 original miles. The car only ran for about 3 seconds. Long story short, my new LONG BLOCK is ready to be installed, and the installer was the only one who told me that it could be devastating to use my current LS6 Intake. I don't understand how a piece of oil soaked metal could get sucked into the intake in 3 seconds anyway, but they assured me it has happened and ruined a new motor, so I believe them because they are the experts. They only work on the Camaro and Corvette.

    '01 Camaro SS LS6 Intake Part # is 12561184, Chevy Performance Part # 88894339.

    '01 ZO6 LS6 Intake Part # is 12573572

    I think these two are interchangeable. If anyone knows differently, please advise me.

    Thank you...!

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    I am going to call "bullshit" on this one. Absolutely no reason why you cannot use the current intake. No oil circulates through the intake, and any oil that would have been sucked up by the PCV system in the 3 seconds the engine ran after imploding can easily be flushed out with some brake cleaner. Clean the intake and re-install it.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    WANTED: LS6 Intake Manifold....!!!!!

    agree. sounds like they want to inflate the bill.



    and for the record I've killed 1 LS1 and had rod bolt failure on my 1st build of my 6 6liter. Still used my LS6 Intake till I got my FAST intake
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/

    6.0L Block - Forged 403 built, breaking it in , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, Monster Stg 4 Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, UMI: SFC, PHB, LCA's, LCA Relocation Brackets & TA, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/4.10 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

    Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!

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    The reason that an intake would be replaced is due to actual damage to the intake, like it being cracked or badly scarred. The intake should ( and for you instance , need to) be able to be cleaned out of any dirt, oil, and debris.

    If it were me, I would need to see the damage before I would agree to an intake.
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    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    Hello and THANKS all 3 OF YOU,

    I appreciate your candor and your thoughts on this, which do mirror my own thoughts. You know I put the identical message on one other LS Forum to increase my chances of finding one, and got 4 offers to sell me one, one very strange offer as well, and not a single person told me what you guys did. I really appreciate what you 3 wrote, and I'm going to read your comments back to the "Service Experience Specialist" on Monday. BTW, they were not trying to sell me an Intake, said I would need to find it myself, and it would not affect my bill no matter what I did. They are doing the job for a flat rate, as they do them all the time. They are the only shop even close to where I live who can do a job like this, and they are called "Complete Street Performance",,,,
    Complete Street Performance
    <p>
    As I was asking my 20 questions on the install to the "Service Experience Specialist"(Alex Buzby), a Senior Mechanic walked in when Alex told me that I cannot re-use my Intake manifold, and the 2 of them basically ganged up on me on the office and said word-for-word "Are you going to chance ruining your New Long Block over a $200 intake?". BTW, We all know they are much more than $200. The best I found so far is $345. I had written down and I ASKED ALL THE INTELLIGENT QUESTIONS, even though I have never had an Engine issue with an LS1 engine, or even had one of these Intakes off. They stressed to me that due to the complex internal structure of the intake, you can NEVER completely flush it out. They told me that pieces of Metal can get stuck in there, and can get sucked out and past an Intake valve, and they have seen it happen more than once. They made me feel like I would be a fool and a moron if I did not take their "Expert" advice. HELL, I FILTERED THE OIL WHEN I DRAINED IT, AND DIDN'T FIND A SINGLE PIECE OF METAL IN THE FINE SCREEN. I hate to admit this, but they mostly work on Camaros and Corvettes, and their business is growing in leaps and bounds. When I was there, every floor space and all 3 lifts were occupied, and they were installing Headers and a Corsa Exhaust on a Brand New 2017 LT4 ZO6 Vette. I DO BELIEVE YOU GUYS, so now I have think about how to handle this.

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    Despite their assertions to the contrary I would not hesitate to reinstall the stock intake. Pick it up from the dealer, take it home, wash and blow it out with compressed air and take it back. If you want to make them feel better, tell them you bought another intake on ebay and that this is it when you hand it to them.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    WANTED: LS6 Intake Manifold....!!!!!

    I'd add look it over very good for cracks.

    Also LS6 intakes go for $350.

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    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    Thanks Guys.... They stressed to me that due to the complex internal structure of the intake, you can NEVER completely flush it out.

    Can someone let me know your thoughts on if the Interior is COMPLEX or not? Logic tells me any complexities would restrict or interfere with smooth, efficient air flow.

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    I don't think they are all that bad -- open plenum for the most part. Anything jagged enough to catch on stuff isn't going to get up there anyway. Look at your PCV and tell me how the heck anything metal is going to get past that... in 3 seconds.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Agree with Jeff.


    The PCV and the tube will tell you a lot.

    I've never heard of metal debris ever making it up into a pcv system and then even into the intake. In fact the only time I've seen or heard of metal entering into the intake was because of nitrous back fire blowing up a valve and then having it shoot debris back into the intake runners.

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    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    Thank you Scott and Jeff,
    I very much appreciate your help and advice. It seems these guys are trying to make me feel stupid if I don't take their "Expert" advice. Although I've never encountered an issue like this before, I am a very logical thinker, and my thoughts on metal getting past the PCV mirror yours. Like you said Jeff, I am going to pick the intake up and take it home to clean it well, assuming they don't damage it during the removal (Many of the ones for sale on Ebay have damage to them, especially at the rear of the intake). My sister in Law is an X-ray Nurse, and I'll tell them I am gong to get it X-rayed. Any Metal will show up like a bright light. I can also play their game. These guys are excellent Mechanically, are the only shop in the area that can do this job and they know it, but there is an attitude issue I really don't care for.
    Thanks Again,
    Tom

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Just so you know if you do xray it, there are at least 18 metal pieces in the intake that I can think of.

    The 8 holes that the bolts go thru to mount it to the engine, 3 for the throttle body, 2 for the throttle cable to mount to, 1 for the map sensor on the rear, 4 for the fuel rail.

    Once you get a look at the inside of the intake you'll see it's not that complicated. If you do "rinse" it with water make sure you thoroughly dry it. Don't want water go into the cylinders.



    Just be glad you don't have a FAST intake. As great as they are they have another set of issues to deal with, like the gasket that seals the intake shell and the 5 bolts that are on the back of the intake to seal it as well. I chased a damn vacuum leak for 9 months. I couldn't get it to tune for shit. I discovered it by removing the intake to relocate the map sensor forward and when I turned the intake upside down to look at the seals the rear 5 bolts dropped to the ground. Once it all back together my tuner had the car running right in 10 mins.

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    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    Thanks Scott,

    After all the discussions on how it would be basically impossible to get a piece of metal into that intake in 3 seconds, that is just "A story" I'm going to tell them to make it a bit easier to take the intake home and bring it back without getting any "Attitude". I do appreciate though, you letting me know how many pieces of metal are already included in/on the intake.

    My real plan is to have 2 cans of CRC Brake Cleaner ready, and take it home and spray Brake Cleaner through out the interior of the intake to get out as much Grease and gunk as I can. Tooth brushes at the ready if necessary. There should not be much though. I've done the Seafoam poured down the Brake Booster line method (Wow there was some serious smoke produced after the start-up after that), and the Seafoam Spray into the Throttle body as well, shortly before the car gave me the finger a year ago. A friend also has a parts cleaner tub in his auto shop, as a backup. I searched this Forum and found so many different ways people recommend to clean the interior. I know from experience how well the CRC dissolves grease, so I picked that method. I will then treat the outside surfaces with Armor-all Outlast. That product is truly amazing stuff. Lots of people soak the whole thing in a Simple Green and water solution. I hate the smell of that stuff. It is so damn weird.

    Since is my first time cleaning an intake that is off the car, if you propose a better method, I will certainly listen. Sorry about the problems you had with your FAST Intake. Thanks again. Tom

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Sounds like you have a sound plan. I would if I was you look at the rear tube for the vacuum line for the brake boost. Make sure no cracks around that area.

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    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    Thank you. Yeah, after all the intakes on Ebay that have damage at the rear, checking that area for any damage is at the top of my list.

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    Hot soapy water and elbow grease will also work well. I would lay off the Seafoam and instead run the TC-W3 regimen as recommended on this site.

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    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    I did not plan on using any more Seafoam. I searched the whole site, and found no occurrence of "TC-W3". A Google search only turns up the 2 Cycle Outboard Engine Oil. I'm sorry, but I'm at a bit of a loss. Can you give me a hint of where to look?

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    Lots of us run TC-W3, which is an ashless 2 stroke oil. Add 1 oz. for every 5 gal. of fuel every time you fill up. I run this in all of our play cars.

    Link: Been testing Oil

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    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    Jeff,
    I initially and mistakenly thought you wanted me to use the TC-W3 regimen to clean the intake. My bad. I don't know why my site wide search didn't turn up any occurrence of TC-W3, but I did check out and read a lot of that thread (About 5 pages in the beginning AND the end of the thread). Thank you for the link. I was certainly impressed with Sarge's list of "Deliverables", and the results attained. It would take me all day+ to read all 57 pages of comments placed there over 9 years, but I get it, "It" sounds thoroughly amazing, and I'm going to buy some of "It" the next time I go to the store. TC-W3 at 1 Oz. per 5 Gallons of Gas....Nice.

    I'm sorry I ever ran across this thread until now, but will take full advantage from here forward. Thank YOU.

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    In case you missed it in that thread, you do not have to buy the high dollar TC-W3 to attain the benefits of running it. Half the time, I buy the Supertech brand at Walmart in a gallon jug. I then pour it into smaller dispensers that are marked in ounces to make adding it to the tank easy.

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