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Tick master cyl, & aftermarket clutch

This is a discussion on Tick master cyl, & aftermarket clutch within the Parts Wanted / Trade forums, part of the Sponsors Group Pricing and Parts Review category; Looking for a tick master cyl & aftermarket clutch or ls7 clutch, new or used, wtt : 01 ws6 wheels, ...

  1. #1
    Member BRANDON's Avatar
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    black with silver stripes
    2001 trans am ws6

    Tick master cyl, & aftermarket clutch

    Looking for a tick master cyl & aftermarket clutch or ls7 clutch, new or used, wtt : 01 ws6 wheels, complete stock ls1 heads, high flow cats, stock maf, & Camaro wheels with slicks, can add some cash for the right deal , located in ga

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    OP - fyi, if you do get a Tick MC, just make sure you are not using a used LS7 clutch and then adding the Tick MC. There are reported issues with Tick MC's installed after a LS7 clutch that has been on the car for a while. It has to do with the LS7 clutch and how it self adjusts. You are OK if you install with a NEW LS7 clutch.

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    Member BRANDON's Avatar
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    black with silver stripes
    2001 trans am ws6

    Thanks for that info, I haven't heard of that problem, if I do get a used one its going to have to be lightly used, my car is locking me out of third on the race track and I was told to replace the stock clutch and get a tick, I don't have the cash right now so I'm trying this, the heads up on that issue is greatly appreciated!

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    Yes, it is most likely the OEM Master cylinder, but it could also be something else.


    How many miles on the current clutch & transmission? Clutches usually last about every 75,000 miles (that is with easy driving, track use, well....) Transmission internals should last to about 140,000 - 150,000 miles, again easy - normal use. Track, again....starts getting much less.


    The other problem I mention is a common one, the syncro's. Stock one's don't like much abuse and will cause lock out and miss shifts.

    Without looking at the clutch or being able to drive it, I would say pull the clutch first look at it, but don't be surprise that a new one doesn't fix the shifting problems. Again syncros.



    What does it take to fix the syncros, you might ask? Transmission rebuild. Tick Performance and "The Gearbox" both sell stage II rebuild kits and Tick provides a service to do the work. The kit upgrades the forks, syncros and some other stuff as well. Like most things it isn't cheap. The parts kit from Gearbox is about $650, Tick's parts are about the same cost. Getting a transmission shop to do the work is another $600. Tick's service with parts is $1500 with shipping both ways included in that price.

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    Not being able to shift into 3rd at WOT is a very common issue due to the poor hydraulic system in our cars coupled with the poor rail design of the T56. I'd start with a fluid change in the MC first, then try a Tick MC next if that doesn't help. Those are your cheapest options.
    It's on jackstands.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    I also forgot to mention the drill mod, but that is tricky to do.

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    Good point. We both know that's just a bandaid fix though. Worth trying though if the budget is tight.

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    Member BRANDON's Avatar
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    black with silver stripes
    2001 trans am ws6

    The car has 135k, well taken care of but yes there's an occasional track night and some hard driving on the street, but it is a street car , the car does fine in normal driving and even during hard driving, my issue comes only at the track when I'm really pushing the car to its limits, I have changed the tranny fluid, the clutch fluid a few times,which doesn't take long to turn right back black, car is a H/C/I 470rwhp car, clutch and hydraulics are all still stock, all other gears work perfect,it's just 3rd at the track when I'm wot shifting hard, I know it's a lot of miles and hp for the stock parts so I figured even if a clutch and tick don't solve the problem I still need them anyway but I hope it's not all that you said cause I don't have the money to do all that right now

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    I have 500rwhp in my SS and run into the same issue from time to time with an aftermarket Spec Stage 3+ clutch rated at 850 lb-ft. My transmission is also fully built (M6). I have the stock MC still.

    I will bet 100% that your issue is not the clutch, but the MC...especially if your fluid is black. That means the lines are heating up too much. Try wrapping them with some heat tape or something to keep them cooler.

    With that many miles, switching out for an aftermarket clutch is probably not a bad idea though either way.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    I have 500rwhp in my SS and run into the same issue from time to time with an aftermarket Spec Stage 3+ clutch rated at 850 lb-ft. My transmission is also fully built (M6). I have the stock MC still.

    I will bet 100% that your issue is not the clutch, but the MC...especially if your fluid is black. That means the lines are heating up too much. Try wrapping them with some heat tape or something to keep them cooler.

    With that many miles, switching out for an aftermarket clutch is probably not a bad idea though either way.
    This^^^


    The loss of hydros while at wot and shifting to 3rd is due to a small orifice in the hydraulic clutch line that restricts the fluid. The drill mod supposedly fixes it but it takes some skills to not mess it up. Basically you drill the orifice out with a drill bit while trying not to tear a hole in the line.

    you do so at own risk.


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    Member BRANDON's Avatar
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    black with silver stripes
    2001 trans am ws6

    If you have to do all that for the drill mod then ill just wait and get a tick and clutch, it's not a problem until I'm at the track so ill just skip the track until I get the parts, sucks though since I won't be able to see what times I can run with the H/C/I setup ,so hopefully I can get a good trade or ill buy all new parts after the first of the year, thanks for all the help,advice,& info guys

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    I would try what Jon suggested until you get what you're looking for. I ran my setup with LS7 clutch and still had to let it cool down after 2-3 hard runs in a row. My last track visit finally made me quit till I can get the tranny built up. My syncro's lasted to 175k miles. It's next on the check list of rebuilding my bird after my engine & rear projects get done...

    Been down since last Nov.
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    6.0L Block - Forged 403 built, breaking it in , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, Monster Stg 4 Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, UMI: SFC, PHB, LCA's, LCA Relocation Brackets & TA, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/4.10 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

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    Feel blessed...my synchronizer keys broke at 12,000 miles in mine...

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    1999 Trans-Am, 2012 Sonic

    Your looking around $1100.ish on LS7 and tick, just finished 500miles ago, all shifts are like butter however at wot 3rd still a problem from time to time. M6 stock
    99 Trans Am, SLP Lid, Blackwing filter, smooth bellow, Ported TB, LS6 intake, Ws6 lower ram air box, OBX LT's, Magna Flow cat back, LS7 clutch, Tick MC, Hurst Shifter, Frost Tune, UMI SFC,LAC, STB, PB, Torq Arm, Super Hawk hood, Torq Thrust II, Kee Audio.
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