Would like some advice on track times?

[blackSS01]

Mods are in sig. Times below.

60' 2.214
330' 5.717
1/8 8.540
MPH 87.87
1000' 10.9
1/4' 12.956
MPH 111.32

Track was a hair slick. Temp was partly cloudy and around 60 degrees. I was dodgeing the water box so a burn out on normal tires and warming the clutch up was not a problem. I was holding at about 1800 rpms and semi dumping with partial gas. I was also shifting at around 6500 rpms and crossing the line in 4th.

Now here are my questions. I know my 60' is horrible, what have other M6 drivers been launching at to lower the time? How are my numbers looking for mods? I think I should be a lot quicker then that time. Any advice would be appreciated.

[FSANE]

newb


Get an adj. Tq arm

Remove the stb and front sway bar to help you launch

Ask me how i know

[FSANE]

oh yeah tune your car back to stock with the HPP3 if you did and get a real dyno tune

[86 IROC-Z]

Get like, five turbos and a blower. Should make you faster.

[blackSS01]

Thanks for the advice. But why take the STB out?

[FSANE]

Thanks for the advice. But why take the STB out?

You are not doing hard cornering, you are going straight. Its beneficial to transfer all the weight to the back wheels by allowing the car to twist a bit off the line.

[blackSS01]

I see what your saying. I definitly will give it a shot next time I am at the track.

[Spaz]

practice your lanch... it's better to spin a little than to bog...

[blackSS01]

I have practiced on some country roads but it seemed like the roads hooked better then the track. I took into account adreniline but on the road I can get it to launch fairly decent.

[nhraformula]

times compared to mods are about a tenth or so off.

[blackSS01]

A tenth slower, or faster. I figured with a good launch a 12.7 or so shouldn't be out of the question.

[Spaz]

A tenth slower, or faster. I figured with a good launch a 12.7 or so shouldn't be out of the question.

if you get a good 1.8 60' you should see mid 12's with no problem...

[blackSS01]

Thats what I was thinking. Now that I am sitting behind the computer, I have figured I should have dropped the rear tire pressure down a little. It may have helped.

[Spaz]

Thats what I was thinking. Now that I am sitting behind the computer, I have figured I should have dropped the rear tire pressure down a little. It may have helped.

also... is your car lowered? do you have LCA relocation brackets?

[blackSS01]

Nope, still have stock suspension. I definitely need new shocks and I want to lower it with springs but money is not there right now. I know that would help alot. I took my HPP3 out, I would love a dyno tune but there isn't a dyno around me for at least 200 miles.

[tnthub]

Forget the suspension parts until you have some real tires. Just get some ET Street radials and go to the track when there is a test and tune that includes real race cars instead of just street cars. Get in line behind the cars that are running slicks.

You have no baseline from which to compare. By the time I was hitting 110 my car was in the 11s.

Your sixty foot times should be easily four tenths quicker with traction. That translates to probably half a second or more at the other end of the track.

Bear in mind, ET is all about efficiency and shifting. MPH is about horsepower.

I would be shifting a tad lower on stock valves. Probably 6000 and 6200 max. Heck I shift at 6200 and 6400 with my stroker... Any more than that and it is waste and wear for the parts.

Get rid of the brace and remove the front sway bar. That will help with distributing weight from the front to rear on the launch. The stock shocks in the rear are fine for your level of performance. Some adjustable shocks for the front will help as you can set them loose for the track and firm for street driving.

Fo launching I would rpm match with the lights so I was between 1200 and 1500 when the last yellow flashed on. I would quick release the clutch at that point and powershift into second and third. Fourth would be powershifted only if I was going for best ET. I would only lose about .02 by not powershifting fourth so if i was ahead or catching my competitor and I was concerned about breaking out I would granny shift fourth.

Each car and track is a bit different, but your power level indicates that you have the hp to do much better. Appropriate tires will help more than anything else and without good tires you can piss money away on all the suspension parts you want and until you become the best driver at your track it won't do you any good except to make you frustrated and broke.

Make life easy and get some real tires. Then check back in with some decent sixty foot times so you can better quantify the next modifications you want to make.

Above all.... Have fun.

[blackSS01]

Thanks for all that info. When I bought these last tires, I was thinking Nitto or ET Street, but I wanted my rear to last, so I went with what I have. I appreciate all the insight.

[Spaz]

Forget the suspension parts until you have some real tires. Just get some ET Street radials and go to the track when there is a test and tune that includes real race cars instead of just street cars. Get in line behind the cars that are running slicks.

You have no baseline from which to compare. By the time I was hitting 110 my car was in the 11s.

Your sixty foot times should be easily four tenths quicker with traction. That translates to probably half a second or more at the other end of the track.

Bear in mind, ET is all about efficiency and shifting. MPH is about horsepower.

I would be shifting a tad lower on stock valves. Probably 6000 and 6200 max. Heck I shift at 6200 and 6400 with my stroker... Any more than that and it is waste and wear for the parts.

Get rid of the brace and remove the front sway bar. That will help with distributing weight from the front to rear on the launch. The stock shocks in the rear are fine for your level of performance. Some adjustable shocks for the front will help as you can set them loose for the track and firm for street driving.

Fo launching I would rpm match with the lights so I was between 1200 and 1500 when the last yellow flashed on. I would quick release the clutch at that point and powershift into second and third. Fourth would be powershifted only if I was going for best ET. I would only lose about .02 by not powershifting fourth so if i was ahead or catching my competitor and I was concerned about breaking out I would granny shift fourth.

Each car and track is a bit different, but your power level indicates that you have the hp to do much better. Appropriate tires will help more than anything else and without good tires you can piss money away on all the suspension parts you want and until you become the best driver at your track it won't do you any good except to make you frustrated and broke.

Make life easy and get some real tires. Then check back in with some decent sixty foot times so you can better quantify the next modifications you want to make.

Above all.... Have fun.

no way!!! slicks and his rear is in danger... stock suspension is not very good... he needs stiffer shocks at least... what good is it if the power is being absorbed by the suspension and not making it ot the tires... and i don't konw any one who has had to shift in to 4th in the 1/4 unless they have 4:10's...

with his gears the 1200 - 1500 rpm launch is to low for him... he would bog really bad... better off to feather it in... at 3000 rpm and spin a little...

[nhraformula]

if you get a good 1.8 60' you should see mid 12's with no problem...

never happen in a 6 speed

[Spaz]

never happen in a 6 speed

sticky tires and a good suspension...