Any1 know where to buy a 360 repair kit

**rajiv1998** · 06-23-2010, 07:56 PM

So im gonna tear open the 360 tommorow. I will double check with Microshit tommorow morning to make sure I am out of warrenty (its been like 6 yrs this summer). If I am out I am going to try and fix it myself. I got the 3 red rings so does any1 know what to do. Do I have to sodder or anything? Does any1 know where I can get a repair kit for it with the parts I need to repair it with? I will post pics along the way so I hope u guys can help.

**bluefields88** · 06-24-2010, 01:15 AM

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsz0lNJ6JrQ"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsz0lNJ6JrQ[/ame]
I've done this to 4 of them.

**grouch0jr** · 06-24-2010, 05:47 AM

the best fix i could find:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Sony+-+P...&skuId=9476952

**Aetos** · 06-24-2010, 07:26 AM

Get something similar to this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/XBOX-360-COMPLET...item53e1f69f25

I have fixed dozens of 360s. Do one thing and reply with the results.

Turn the 360 on, let it RROD. Hold the sync button, and press the eject button 4 times, and record the number of lights flashing for each button press. Come back and tell me the results.

**rajiv1998** · 06-24-2010, 07:49 AM

Will do. Just gotta run to gamestop first and call Microshit.

**KMdef9** · 06-24-2010, 08:48 AM

Originally Posted by bluefields88

I've done this to 4 of them.

Anyone else notice how they sound like Fogel?

**rajiv1998** · 06-24-2010, 09:44 AM

Originally Posted by Aetos

Get something similar to this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/XBOX-360-COMPLET...item53e1f69f25

I have fixed dozens of 360s. Do one thing and reply with the results.

Turn the 360 on, let it RROD. Hold the sync button, and press the eject button 4 times, and record the number of lights flashing for each button press. Come back and tell me the results.

4 times meaning do I let it open and close 4 complete times?

**Aetos** · 06-24-2010, 10:34 AM

Originally Posted by rajiv1998

4 times meaning do I let it open and close 4 complete times?

"--==SECONDARY ERROR CODES==-
The specific type of hardware failure can be determined by a "hidden" error code

* Turn the xbox 360 on, and wait till the 3 red lights are flashing.
* Press and hold the sync up button (the small white one), while holding that button press the eject button.
* The LEDs will now blink the first number in the code (as described below).
* Release the eject button and press it again.
* The LEDs will now blink the second number of the code.
* Release the eject button and press it again.
* The LEDs will now blink the third number of the code.
* Release the eject button and press it again.
* The LEDs will now blink the forth number of the code.
* Release the eject button and press it again.
* The LEDs will go back to the 3 red flashing lights.

You should be able to determine the difference between the 3 flashing lights and the error code lights by the rate in which they flash.

Here is how you interpret the LEDs to get the code number:

* All four lights flashing - 0
* One light flashing - 1
* Two Lights flashing - 2
* Three lights flashing - 3

"

http://www.llamma.com/xbox360/repair...rror-codes.htm

I want your secondary error code.

**rajiv1998** · 06-24-2010, 10:43 AM

Originally Posted by Aetos

"--==SECONDARY ERROR CODES==-
The specific type of hardware failure can be determined by a "hidden" error code

* Turn the xbox 360 on, and wait till the 3 red lights are flashing.
* Press and hold the sync up button (the small white one), while holding that button press the eject button.
* The LEDs will now blink the first number in the code (as described below).
* Release the eject button and press it again.
* The LEDs will now blink the second number of the code.
* Release the eject button and press it again.
* The LEDs will now blink the third number of the code.
* Release the eject button and press it again.
* The LEDs will now blink the forth number of the code.
* Release the eject button and press it again.
* The LEDs will go back to the 3 red flashing lights.

You should be able to determine the difference between the 3 flashing lights and the error code lights by the rate in which they flash.

Here is how you interpret the LEDs to get the code number:

* All four lights flashing - 0
* One light flashing - 1
* Two Lights flashing - 2
* Three lights flashing - 3

"

http://www.llamma.com/xbox360/repair...rror-codes.htm

I want your secondary error code.

Tried it and it didnt work. 3 Lights kept on flashing when I hit the eync button and eject. Did not blink anything else or nothing. Nothing changed. Im gonna start opening it up. Will follow up if needed

**Aetos** · 06-24-2010, 10:48 AM

Originally Posted by rajiv1998

Tried it and it didnt work. 3 Lights kept on flashing when I hit the eync button and eject. Did not blink anything else or nothing. Nothing changed. Im gonna start opening it up. Will follow up if needed

did you hold the sync button down? You never let go of the sync button through the whole process.

**rajiv1998** · 06-24-2010, 11:08 AM

Originally Posted by Aetos

did you hold the sync button down? You never let go of the sync button through the whole process.

Yes nothing worked. It just stayed the same. To late now; hard drive, face skin, top and bottom covers have been removed. I probabply pressed every single hole in the vents to see where to pins were that were holding the cover in place LOL.

**rajiv1998** · 06-24-2010, 11:25 AM

I cant get the 7 fucking tabs to come off in the back. The bottom 5 near the AV port and the other 2 on top. Any1 have any suggestions

Top 2 are off but the bottom 5 wont move

**bluefields88** · 06-24-2010, 01:36 PM

just do what I said, works every time. For the tabs in the back, which are a bitch to get, I used a super small screw driver. You have to lift it up while doing it or the tabs will re-close.

**rajiv1998** · 06-24-2010, 04:05 PM

**rajiv1998** · 06-24-2010, 05:28 PM

Got it stripped down completley. Down to 18 parts. I will call my friend tommorow with a solder and hopefully it works. I will post pics later.

**bluefields88** · 06-24-2010, 05:30 PM

Solder? you use thermal compound....

**rajiv1998** · 06-24-2010, 05:40 PM

Originally Posted by bluefields88

Solder? you use thermal compound....

Do u no where I can get some? I want this done tommorow? Will Radio Shack have it? The last thing I want to do is strip open my xobx and have to order parts.

**LS1WS6** · 06-24-2010, 05:46 PM

you need 4 screws and about 16 #10 washer. No need to do the heat cycling bs or some call it solder "reflow" which it doesnt even get hot enough to do.. All you do is remove the x-clamp and replace it with screws. The washers are used to take up the space between the board and the metal housing and keep it from flexing. All you have to do is make the screws hand tight then slowly make each one slightly tighter turning the unit on each time you tighten a screw and see if it will turn on. Once it turns on let it run for a bit and pay attention to the fan speed. If the fans start out slow but ramp up to full speed, one or two of the screws is too loose preventing good heat transfer from the chip to the heat sink.. If you have it right the fans will be at a constant slow speed untill you start playing a game/movie. Once you figured out what screw/screws that needed to be tightend to allow good heat transfer your done. One other thing i forgot to mention is that your going to need to remove the old heatsink compound and apply new compound, most use artic silver compound as its the best at heat transfer but i just used what i had and have no issues.

**rajiv1998** · 06-24-2010, 05:54 PM

Originally Posted by LS1WS6

you need 4 screws and about 16 #10 washer. No need to do the heat cycling bs or some call it solder "reflow" which it doesnt even get hot enough to do.. All you do is remove the x-clamp and replace it with screws. The washers are used to take up the space between the board and the metal housing and keep it from flexing. All you have to do is make the screws hand tight then slowly make each one slightly tighter turning the unit on each time you tighten a screw and see if it will turn on. Once it turns on let it run for a bit and pay attention to the fan speed. If the fans start out slow but ramp up to full speed, one or two of the screws is too loose preventing good heat transfer from the chip to the heat sink.. If you have it right the fans will be at a constant slow speed untill you start playing a game/movie. Once you figured out what screw/screws that needed to be tightend to allow good heat transfer your done. One other thing i forgot to mention is that your going to need to remove the old heatsink compound and apply new compound, most use artic silver compound as its the best at heat transfer but i just used what i had and have no issues.

I will do this if the penny trick doesnt work. Even if the fans dont kick in at full speed or take a while to come up to speed, I "SHOULD" be covered because I have the introcooler. Just gotta get some of that glue and I will wrap it up tommorow morning. Motherboard is out and flipped over, just waiting for tommorow morning.

**LS1WS6** · 06-24-2010, 05:59 PM

Originally Posted by rajiv1998

I will do this if the penny trick doesnt work. Even if the fans dont kick in at full speed or take a while to come up to speed, I "SHOULD" be covered because I have the introcooler. Just gotta get some of that glue and I will wrap it up tommorow morning. Motherboard is out and flipped over, just waiting for tommorow morning.

well first thing you need to do is ditch that intercooler bs shit, does absolutly nothing to remove heat infact if microsoft knew you had one on it they would deny your warranty cause it actually blocks the air flow. Now the reason for the fans to be on full speed is for the fact that the gpu is not in full contact with the heat sink(screws to loose). If you do not get good contact the chip will heat up in turn the built in program that controlls the fan speed will see that the chip is running too hot and will ramp up the fan speed to try and cool it