Air Compressor Help

**kool-aide** · 11-09-2009, 02:07 PM

Ok, I once posted a question about a song in a commercial, and LS1 pulled through for me,

.

This time it is about an air compressor, but just as obscure I'm sure. I have a 1986 Sears Craftsman 5 HP 24 Gal Air Compressor. The tank label states 240V / 15 Amps. The Sears database stated collecting data in 1987, crap. The motor is a General Electric 230V / 13 Amp 1 speed motor.

What I am trying to do is figure out what the start up current would be. This would let me know what the start up power will be.

I don't have a 220 circuit in my garage. I can call an electrician and pay X amount to have a new 2 pole 220V and outlet dropped in, or....

If I can figure out a reasonable wattage for this sucker. I can buy a step up converter. Even if I did the new 220 breaker myself it could still cost the same in parts as a 500-750 Watt heavy duty continuous converter. I could even go up to a 800 or possibly a 1000 Watt converter without taking out a small loan,

.

I figure I will most likely never own a 220V device other than this compressor. So I'm not sure how much value a new 220 breaker in my garage would bring me. At least the converter has some value in the future, even if it is yard sale value.

BTW the compressor was bought at a yard sale from a neighbor that passed on, so the compressor has value beyond its use.

thanks

kool-aide

**86 IROC-Z** · 11-09-2009, 02:11 PM

Unplug your dryer and use that outlet. Once it's full take it where ever you need to use it.

**kool-aide** · 11-09-2009, 02:29 PM

not a bad idea, but.... My dryer is inside the house in a laundry room. I like your thinking though. I never thought about that. Not sure how long 24 gal of compressed air would last, but i like that idea.

**kool-aide** · 11-09-2009, 02:32 PM

found this in a web search

Can I convert my 240 volt Craftsman air compressor to 110 volt power? The model is M0-6436.
It's a Sears Craftsman Air compressor. The motor on it is a GE model 5kcr48sr59gw. It is wired for 240 Volts but some models are able to convert to standard 110 volts. Is this one of them? If so what do I need to do to convert it? Thanks

Answer by:
MMH Expert_Jimmy K, 9 months ago

Remove the cover on the junction box on the motor. Disconnect the power to the compressor before starting. Look on the back of the junction box cover for instructions for converting the motor to 120 volts. If the motor is convertible, the instructions will be on the back of the junction box cover.

I'm not sure what or where this cover is. The two cylinder things on top of the motor are capacitors, big ones. There is a cover that is over the belt and wheels, nothing there. I wonder what this cover is the guy mentions in his answer.

**4get gto** · 11-09-2009, 02:54 PM

The cover they might be talking about is where the cord is mounted or attached.On back of the cover. Better yet look for the motor data plate which is a label somewhere glued to the motor. This should tell you if the motor is "multi" voltage. Should say something 110 120/ 240 v .....Or somthing to that effect....Again let us know what the data plate says.........

**kool-aide** · 11-09-2009, 03:04 PM

there is a cover on the switch. Underneath it is a simple wire diagram, nothing indicating a 220V to 110V conversion, and it is on the opposite side of the tank.

All of the stickers on the outside are burn warnings and shock hazard warnings.

The best I have is the motor plate says it is General Electric, model, volts, amps, RPM, etc. The tank plate says DeVilbiss, date is 1986, a number that looks like a possible model number, not much info.

The motor is a 230V / 13 Amp, but that doesn't mean it will pull that much power at start up. If so that is a 3000 Watt pull, that is a 35-40 lbs. step up converter, thats big.

Have I listed anything helpful? The Sears part number is 919.175950. I can't find anything in a web search for the GE model number or Sears model number.

GE is 6436 5KCR48SR28W, my closest search was a GE 5KCR48SR59GW, but that is not my motor.

**4get gto** · 11-09-2009, 03:14 PM

Your motor looks to be a 230/240 v motor with a running amp 0f 13 amp. you won't be able to take this motor back down to 120v. Start up amps are nothing you should be worried about as long as you have 20 amp breaker and 12ga. wire.

All the information on tank has nothing to do with motor.

**kool-aide** · 11-09-2009, 03:36 PM

Originally Posted by 4get gto

Your motor looks to be a 230/240 v motor with a running amp 0f 13 amp. you won't be able to take this motor back down to 120v. Start up amps are nothing you should be worried about as long as you have 20 amp breaker and 12ga. wire.

All the information on tank has nothing to do with motor.

I don't want to step it down. I want to step up my 110V outlet. I have a dedicated single pole 20 Amp break and outlet. I don't feel like pulling the breaker and popping in a 2 pole 20 Amp breaker. I'm not an electrician, and I don't like getting zapped,

.

I know you can step up or down voltage. So I thought in stead of pouring my cash into another breaker and outlet. I could look into a step up converter/transformer.

But, I know you need to find a converter that can handle the power. That is the part I don't know. I can take worse case and say the motor will always pull 3000 Watts.

I am just thinking of options, thats all. This the guy that 1st replied, I can hi-jack my dryer outlet when I want to use it, except my dryer is inside the house,

. I can get an electrician to run a new 2 pole 220V 20 Amp breaker, or maybe see if I can figure out the correct step up converter to handle the work load.

The sad part is my neighbor that passed away was an electrician,

.

**tpilews** · 11-09-2009, 04:31 PM

Just add an outlet right next to your breaker box. That's what I did. It probably cost me $50 at most. Get a dual pole 20 amp breaker, plug it in, run the wire, connect outlet. Done. Should take 30 minutes tops. If you wanna make it look nice, run the wire up the box into your attic and then down the wall to your outlet. It'll probably cost you another $25 in wire though.

**kool-aide** · 11-10-2009, 03:37 PM

yeah in my first house that is what we did. My service panel was bolted to the wall. It made it easy to put the new outlet right under the panel. In this house the panel is framed in the wall, so you have to drop the Romex down from the attic.

The more I think about the step up converter I tell my self to just put the new break and outlet in and stop being a sissy.

I just have a fear of dieing, lol....

I am really excited about firing up the air compressor though. 1986 and still running, that is definitely quality made stuff there.

**Smkn_TA** · 11-10-2009, 04:41 PM

I have a watt meter that you plug in between the outlet and the device. Thinking that is what you would need to find out. I bought it to test ghost watt usage at my place.

**pajeff02** · 11-10-2009, 05:33 PM

As posted above -- wiring a 220 volt circuit is pretty damn simple. You just have to make sure that the breaker engages both poles in your box -- each pole is 110 volts and the combination gets you to 220. Other than that you have a copper ground and a white neutral.

However, if it is like my 5 hp Craftsman compressor, it has a three prong plug. The prongs are "hot - hot - ground" with the neutral not being utilized. I have about a 30' wire run from my box and am using 12/3 wire. Never had a problem.

**kool-aide** · 11-11-2009, 10:37 AM

good news. my uncle has experience with adding circuits to a panel. i guess he is an expert at more than just residential a/c,

. looks like we will be adding a 220 either new outlet or replace an existing. i think i am going to shoot for adding a new outlet and 220 breaker over where i would like my compressor.

thanks for all the help and suggestions.

**ss~zoso~ss** · 11-11-2009, 10:57 AM

220V extension cord out the nearest window of ur dryer, wheel it over to said window?

idk how many times you'll need to do this / how many times you'll be emptying it

**4get gto** · 11-11-2009, 02:56 PM

Originally Posted by kool-aide

good news. my uncle has experience with adding circuits to a panel. i guess he is an expert at more than just residential a/c,

. looks like we will be adding a 220 either new outlet or replace an existing. i think i am going to shoot for adding a new outlet and 220 breaker over where i would like my compressor.

thanks for all the help and suggestions.

Glad it worked out for you kool-aide. Its sometimes a bitch solving some problems on line....... Its been good........

**kool-aide** · 11-11-2009, 03:24 PM

nah, not that bad. i was just exploring ideas, didn't want to focus on just one thing. sometimes i like to think of a bunch of ideas and see what sticks.

**kool-aide** · 11-21-2009, 06:25 AM

well i conquered my fear and just did the job. I decided to use the existing 12 gauge wiring. I bought a new outlet and 2 pole breaker. I had enough wire and room in the attic to re-route my wire. This gave me the extra foot needed to bring the white down to the new breaker. Everything came back to life, compressor fired up on the first flip of the switch, and nothing has burned down.

of course when the compressor is not in use i turn that breaker off, just me being paranoid.

I didn't trim the wires in the service panel though. I pulled just enough wire for the white to reach, made like a little snake curve out of the black, and made a similar curve with the ground. Funny though, I used the left over yellow Romex jacket and electrical tape to make a sleeve for the ground. I had two GFCI breakers right above the new 220 i put in. I didn't want that bare ground tapping the two breakers, not that it should. I only did this because those suckers stick out farther. It looks funny to see about 10 inches or so of black taped yellow jacket on the ground, shh... I figured safety first. This way if I ever pull the wire back out, put the 110 back in. I am all set. If i would have cut the wires I would be stuck with what I have (short wires), and I would not be able to restore the wire to they way it was.

All in all i think i did a good job. My wife helped me too. It was nice having a second set of hands.

thanks for all the ideas,

**pajeff02** · 11-21-2009, 08:49 AM

I have 12 gauge wire to my 5 hp Craftsman and it has been fine for over 10 years. Easy check is to feel the wire after running the compressor for a while. If the wire is hot, you have too much resistance and should go with a heavier gauge. Slightly warm is okay -- hot is bad. And by this I mean feel the insulated wire, not bare wire!

**kool-aide** · 11-22-2009, 12:15 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

I have 12 gauge wire to my 5 hp Craftsman and it has been fine for over 10 years. Easy check is to feel the wire after running the compressor for a while. If the wire is hot, you have too much resistance and should go with a heavier gauge. Slightly warm is okay -- hot is bad. And by this I mean feel the insulated wire, not bare wire!

ah but you can't jolt your self on insulated wire,

. Yeah, i am so scared of electricity i don't touch any thing let alone bare wires, lol... All i need now is air tools and i will be just runnin around screwing everything up,

.

thanks, when i have a chance to run it i will check it out. I only ran it for like 5 minutes yesterday. Sounds good, seems to build pressure good, nice loud 5 HP noise,

, ad even gives a tiny shaky walkie to it. My wife noticed it wanted to take a walk down the street, lol...

I think i will be a happy man for a long time.