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LS1 engine swap

This is a discussion on LS1 engine swap within the LSx Retrofit and Swap forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Hello guys, I need some help. I recently swapped a 01 ls1 engine with the wiring harness into a 00 ...

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    Unhappy LS1 engine swap

    Hello guys,

    I need some help. I recently swapped a 01 ls1 engine with the wiring harness into a 00 SS body. everything was direct plug. The engine was previously started to see if it ran and it did. All in-dash instruments light up. However, the engine will not crank. To be honest i am a little lost and thinking what it can possibly be. Can it be Vats? The only thing is that the key came with the car and it seems as it works fine. Although, the security light blinks if i turn the key into start position. Any other suggestions. Please help.

    Thanks

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    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    sounds like is the vats... do you know how to by-pass it?
    there is a thread some where here, but i cant the link for you... im on from my cell.
    hopefully some one else here can help you..

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    This is what i found. How to Bypass your VATS
    I will try this on Monday and will report back. But in the meantime, could there be anything else that may require my attention?

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    It could be the VATS. In order for the starter to crank, the BCM needs to see a correct resistance reading from the key through the ignition lock cylinder. Then the BCM will ground the starter relay and the starter will crank. The other possiblities are the Neutral Safety Switch (auto trans) or the Clutch Pedal Switch (manual trans) might not be working or adjusted properly to send power to the starter relay.

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Here's a link to how to Bypass the VATS system if there is something wrong with the key or ignition lock cylinder wiring.
    How to Bypass your VATS

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    Thanks for your help i will be trying it all out first thing monday morning and will let you guys know what happens.

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    Cutlass, Let me ask you this. Since the engine and wiring harness along with the ecu came from a different car. Do i have to match the key that came with the engine, or the key that is with the body of the car. Meaning is this BCM on the engine wire harness side or the internal computer. Just wanted to clarify.

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    well guys its not vats. The key reads 1.86 and so does the wire when i have the key in the ignition. and i tested the injector while i am cranking it and they keep dying after a few seconds. so im guessing something with bcm. what else can i troubleshoot???

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    Member godless-phoenix's Avatar
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    maybe its the bcm (body control module? or the pcm (powertrain control module) couldve shorted out??? ahh, just noticed you said something about the bcm...haha. that sucks dude, sort of had a similar problem, and im pretty sure i had to get a new pcm installed at the freegin dealership :|

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    so after a whole day under the car i must say this swap is not easy. Plugged in the snap-on scanner is showed some code what seems to be like the coolant sensor is acting up. For some reason when i deleted the code the engine began to crank using the ignition key. However, the starter was only getting 10.5 volts so it wasnt a sufficient amount of power to truly fire it up. When i was bypassing it and starting it throught the relay fuse box it lights right up. When i have the ignition numes in (the little bulb you stick into the injector wire harness) it seemed as if they light up only for a few seconds. However, at the moment it was starting with the key them seemed to stay or pulsate for much longer. (could it somehow be a security code i deleted and not the coolant code) I must admit that i was switching the relays a bunch of times and that could have caused some help. After a few minutes i was back to square zero. with the car not cranking at all. The security light was on the whole entire time, which really ticks me off. This Vats system is something else. Is there any way to cut it out and junk it lol. If you guy pick something up from me writing this out, please feel free to chime in, i need all the help i can get. The car is gorgeous and the engine is NA 550hp and sounds like a monster when it lights up, but at this moment it only use is a paperweight.

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 94ls1camaro View Post
    Cutlass, Let me ask you this. Since the engine and wiring harness along with the ecu came from a different car. Do i have to match the key that came with the engine, or the key that is with the body of the car. Meaning is this BCM on the engine wire harness side or the internal computer. Just wanted to clarify.
    BCM is inside the car and shouldn't need any special attention when swapping the PCM, engine, and engine wiring.

    Quote Originally Posted by 94ls1camaro View Post
    well guys its not vats. The key reads 1.86 and so does the wire when i have the key in the ignition. and i tested the injector while i am cranking it and they keep dying after a few seconds. so im guessing something with bcm. what else can i troubleshoot???
    So does the engine crank now, but the engine doesn't start?

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    First, I would like to thank you guys for all your help. This what the issue was. I bought the car from a busineess that deals with corvettes and camaro parts. To make the long story short. The car was a theft recovery where an engine and transmittion were gone. The key and the ignition cylinder must have been replaced. The cylinder worked fine however the key had vats chip #7. After testing most of the resistors i found that the BCM required 1.1k resistor which matches key code #5. Once the 'Security' Light issue was fixed there was still no crank. hhmmm. However if i jumped the started the ignition did not turn off the car kept on idling. Therefore the problem must have been somewhere in the wiring. I started searching the body of the car and noticed a black box behind the center console. It read 'Python 900' AHA it had an aftermarket security alarm. The alarm was complicated. Tracing the wires i noticed that it was incorporated into the wires that communicate btw the BCM and PCM, ignition relay and started control. After removing it all the car cranked YES!!!! I took one of your advices from this forum and made a little detachable resistor from the VATS plugs in case i need extra security the resistor is removable. Once again Thank you for all your help guys. By now i can do this

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Glad you have it all figured out!

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