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LS into a B body help!

This is a discussion on LS into a B body help! within the LSx Retrofit and Swap forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I have a project I am starting on again and will hopefully finish, the major hurtle being questions for those ...

  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    Feb 2012
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    PINK/WHITE
    1957 OLDS

    LS into a B body help!

    I have a project I am starting on again and will hopefully finish, the major hurtle being questions for those that completed a swap like this to save trial and error time.
    The project : A 1957 Olds Holiday Coupe / owned about 30+ years, a survivor
    : Vehicle is on a 1995 Impala SS chassis (all mods required to mount body to frame are done, body is now on but will be removed for drive train fitment) Those mods include adding a few inches to wheel base, reposition body mounts and reconfigure frame ends to be able to hook up stock bumpers, rad support, fuel tank.
    : At this time I have a 99 Corvette LS 5.7 (23K) with all parts inc pully system, and throttle by wire. I also have a complete engine (5.3) and pully system, (180K) out of a 2001 Silverado.
    : Intent is to use a T56 Magnum, LS hot cam, long tube headers, 3:73's
    I Have a mount kit (cant remember what brand, but very beefy). My questions to start this project and put a rolling chassis intact are 1 what headers will fit, keeping in mind I want long tubes and collectors under the car near bellhousing/trans.(high quality) 2 It appears the vette pan is too long, but the 5.3 pan seems to be very close to a stock LT1 dimension. Has anyone used the 5.3 pan from a truck, or recommend a good pan for this swap. 3 What pully system would be best (if anyone knows) the vette system or the 5.3 truck system? Havent tried to put eng in chassis yet, but should I rule one out completely? I intend to use the whole system, inc AC and PS. 4 Have a stock flywheel, but was thinking about a alum wheel for throttle response, any experience? (car should fall around 4200lbs) 5 Clutch recomendations (street use) I want a low pedal presure and will use the hydr throw out bearing (best experience, single line or duel line?).
    Any one who may have done this swap could surely save me a lot of grief. I am a professional mechanical and body/frame shop with 40+ years experience. Once the chassis/ eng is able to bolt up then I have a lot of questions on peoples experience with tuning and computer systems. I want this car cosmetically perfect as well as be able to drive it across country if I feel the need! Also if there is any help I can offer I am available to pass along any info I can. We build a lot of Hot Rods, have built Super Chevy winners in the past and hold a significant amount of credentials, awards and knowledge, hopefully will try to pass it on. Thank you.

    Al Campbell / Boro Collision & Towing
    56 Model Ave
    Hopewell NJ 08525

  2. #2
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    pajeff02's Avatar
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    Black & Blue
    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    Welcome to the site!

    I can almost guarantee that no one has completed the precise swap that you are working on -- it's certainly a mish-mash of cars, but sounds very cool. Space will dictate what you use as the accessory mounting locations between the Vette, truck and even an F-body are all difference. No reason a 5.3 oil pan cannot be utilized. The Vette pan has wings on each side and header fitment may not be as easy. Note that the oil pan is a structural element of the engine and needs to be installed correctly so that it is flush to the back plane of the engine block. The LS engines rev easy and have impressive power right from the factory, so I can't say that an aluminum flywheel is going to be necessary. There is a taper on the stock flywheel and resurfacing is not recommended.

    We have a Classic Muscle section on the forum - would be a great place to post up some pics once you meet the minimum membership requirements.

  3. #3
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    Blue
    1995 Caprice wagon LS7

    I am new here and it appears I can not post pictures or links as yet.
    There are many of us at impalassforum.com with LS powered 77-96 B bodies.

    Many use LS "F" body headers but have to notch the back edge of the cross member behind the engine mounts.
    My case , with my engine placement I bought American Racing Headers (1-7/8 D port "F" body) in pieces
    The left was close with minor rolling to fit, the right, pretty much had to be scratch built.

    Unless you are going to cruise at 100 MPH, possibly consider 4.10 or better with your weight and a T56

    The engine placement front to back in these frames is a juggling act between A/C compressor to frame and header to frame.
    Mine is set back
    I use all "Y" body front but mounted an AC pulley ahead of the main pulley so I could move the AC forward as not to cut the frame.
    Your case, with all the frame mods you are doing anyway, you could just go all "Y" and mod the pocket in the crossmember.
    Guys do use "F" oil [pans , notching the frame. Again depending on engine position
    The truck pans will be below the crossmember.
    A lightweight flywheel will work a long as you have enough gear.
    Clutch , unless you are going to wind it to the moon and beat it to death, many have had great success with the LS7 assembly.
    I personally use the LS9 with an aluminum wheel but the assembly is barely lighter than the LS7

    Gerry

  4. #4
    Senior Member theorangeguy's Avatar
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    Black / White
    '00 T/A M6/'15 Hemi Truck

    Quote Originally Posted by 95wagon View Post
    I am new here and it appears I can not post pictures or links as yet.
    There are many of us at impalassforum.com with LS powered 77-96 B bodies.

    Many use LS "F" body headers but have to notch the back edge of the cross member behind the engine mounts.
    My case , with my engine placement I bought American Racing Headers (1-7/8 D port "F" body) in pieces
    The left was close with minor rolling to fit, the right, pretty much had to be scratch built.

    Unless you are going to cruise at 100 MPH, possibly consider 4.10 or better with your weight and a T56

    The engine placement front to back in these frames is a juggling act between A/C compressor to frame and header to frame.
    Mine is set back
    I use all "Y" body front but mounted an AC pulley ahead of the main pulley so I could move the AC forward as not to cut the frame.
    Your case, with all the frame mods you are doing anyway, you could just go all "Y" and mod the pocket in the crossmember.
    Guys do use "F" oil [pans , notching the frame. Again depending on engine position
    The truck pans will be below the crossmember.
    A lightweight flywheel will work a long as you have enough gear.
    Clutch , unless you are going to wind it to the moon and beat it to death, many have had great success with the LS7 assembly.
    I personally use the LS9 with an aluminum wheel but the assembly is barely lighter than the LS7

    Gerry
    once you hit 10 posts you can post pictures, links, etc.
    2000 Black TA M6 - LT's, ORY, UMI Short Stick, TT2's, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, Braided Lines, and Tuned by Vengeance SCCA and Car Show Approved
    2015 Ram 1500 Crew Cab Sport Premium Hemi
    2010 Hemi Crew Cab Sport Premium - Tuner and HID's - Sold
    06 Quad Cab HHHHemi - Sold
    99 Hugger Orange Camaro - Sold
    97 Camaro - Sold

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