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1989 IROC 305 TPI/ T5 to 6.0 LQ4/ T56

This is a discussion on 1989 IROC 305 TPI/ T5 to 6.0 LQ4/ T56 within the LSx Retrofit and Swap forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Excuse my welding, I was stuffed in the tunnel and couldnt move my arms too good and was welding with ...

  1. #41
    Senior Member cpop98ws6's Avatar
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    Excuse my welding, I was stuffed in the tunnel and couldnt move my arms too good and was welding with my eyes closed since i couldn't get my helmet on lol

  2. #42
    Member pop6482's Avatar
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    Got the tank and rear back in the car along with the fuel lines run to the engine bay. I followed the diagram and everything fit perfectly. The third line (vapor line) coming out of the fuel tank which originally ran to the front dirvers side of the car to a canister was capped off at the tank.



    I also removed the original master cylinder. It is a very tight fit just for the stock MS let alone shoving a Tick MS in there. May have to loosen the bolts on the brake booster to allow a bit more room. It's like trying to fit a square into a round hole.
    I also need to remove the clutch pedal. The peg that is on the 3rd gen pedal that attaches to the Tick is too thick and will not work. The solution to this is to knock off the peg on the 4th gen clutch pedal and weld it onto the other clutch.
    Here is a pic of the room I'm working with

    Got my new/used electric fans today
    And motor will be picked up next week. Then it is on to prepping the wiring harness.

  3. #43
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    You have it all ripped apart anyway, may as well remove the booster and master cylinder to make the install easier.

  4. #44
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Subscribed. Nice work!

  5. #45
    Senior Member cpop98ws6's Avatar
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    That's what I was thinking Jeff, the nuts on the back of the booster are a bastard to get at. I'm gonna take a look at it this weekend and see what we can do.
    Callies 383, Trick Flow 225, Rapid Motorsports Dominatior 2 X cam, ls6 ported oil pump,42lb injectors, FAST 92/92 , ASP underdrive pully, eletric water pump, Pacesetter LT's, Pacesetter ORY, Magnaflow catback, e-cutout, Yank SS 3600, Performabuilt stage 2 4l60e, Strange S60 ,4.10s, Detroit Truetrac, (UMI) - Adj. LCA, Adj. tunnel mount torque arm, Adj. panhard bar, Drag bar, subframe conectors, shock tower brace. 465rwhp-438rwtq 11.09@119.90.

  6. #46
    Member pop6482's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02:2737499
    You have it all ripped apart anyway, may as well remove the booster and master cylinder to make the install easier.
    A few have just loosened the bolts and were able to get the MS in their. I would take it out but have heard that the top bolts on the booster are a PITA. I'll post updates and pics of the install this weekend.
    1989 IROC: 6.0 LQ4/T56, Torquer V2, PRC Stage 2.5 5.3L Heads, FAST 78mm TB, SPEC stg. 2, Stainless Works LT's, e-cutout, Magnaflow, Moser 12blt w/4.11's, BMR subframe connectors, strut tower brace, UMI lca's, panhard, torque arm

  7. #47
    Member pop6482's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS:2737502
    Subscribed. Nice work!
    Thanks!

  8. #48
    Senior Member TLS_Addict's Avatar
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    So who is a better mechanic..............Cpop or pop6482? lol

  9. #49
    Member pop6482's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TLS_Addict View Post
    So who is a better mechanic..............Cpop or pop6482? lol
    That would have to be cpop...lol. I'm learning as I go. Plus I just call the "mechanic" when I need help.

  10. #50
    Senior Member TLS_Addict's Avatar
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    Haha.......you both are better than me by a LONG shot I am sure.

    You need gas put in though I am your guy!

  11. #51
    Member pop6482's Avatar
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    Just Got the Tick MC in this morning along with removing the clutch pedal so that I can swap out the pegs. The mc doesn't touch the stut tower so there wasn't any extra work. I also didn't have to loosen the brake booster. In some instances with these swaps in a 3rd gen, if you are converting from an auto to a manual, holes will need to be drilled for the mc. Keep in mind to provide yourself with enough room so that the mc doesn't hit the strut tower. Some people have had to "massage" the tower in order to fit the mc. Original manual cars it is just a direct bolt in.




    I also removed the clutch pedal. You can see the larger pin on the 3rd gen pedal (bottom of pic). It will be drilled out and replaced with the peg from the 4th gen pedal (top). The 3rd gen pedals are said to have better bracing on the firewall compared to using the 4th gen. Hopefully get this swapped over this afternoon and put back in the car tomorrow.
    Last edited by pop6482; 01-15-2012 at 11:08 AM.

  12. #52
    Member pop6482's Avatar
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    Picked the motor up today!!!!!! Hopefully have it in within the next few weeks.



    Manley Rods
    SRP Pistons & Rings
    ARP Main Studs
    Last edited by pop6482; 01-19-2012 at 05:59 PM.

  13. #53
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    Looks great!

  14. #54
    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    Coming along nicely!

  15. #55
    Yeah baby! Yeah! silverWS6's Avatar
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    Nice work! My 3rd gen will definetly get something like this done in a few years!

  16. #56
    Member pop6482's Avatar
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    utf-8BSU1BRzA1OTIuanBn.jpg
    Here is a small update. Just bolted on some parts over the last few days. Ordered all of the coolant hoses, coolant crossover pipes, belt, PCV system and catch can. I had to get a new power steering resevoir since the used one that I got along with all of the other accessories 2 months ago had a crack in it. Pretty sure I caused the crack with all of the boxes being carelessly moved around the garage a million times. Along with the cracked resevoir, I saw that my PS pulley had a small crack starting. Order a new one of those as well. Spending money to spend more money.
    Found out that the stock 3rd gen. torque arm mount bolts directly to the T56. Also scored an LS6 intake, 28lb injectors, UMI lower control arms, and FAST 78 throttle body from my brother. I'm glad he is upgrading his parts at this time. Makes it easier for me and saves on shipping costs.
    I am hoping to drop the motor in the car by next weekend. Then it will be on to the wiring and a FROST mail order tune. Hopefully by that time I won't need to order any more parts. Although I thought I had everything I needed last weekend until I made a new list and UPS dropped off some boxes at my house. My goal is to have the car at least running by mid to late March. This will give me time to get the little shit sorted and figured out. Our room is booked for the Ocean City, Maryland Cruise Weekend. As long as everything is up and running, I'll be driving it down there!

  17. #57
    Member pop6482's Avatar
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    The motor is in its resting place after 4 hours of wrestling with it and getting it to line up in the mounts. I used SPOHN's 1" set back mounts with the LS1 clamshells and poly mounts. At first it was about 1-2" off. This was my fault because I had the passenger side poly bushing in reversed and clamshell upside down. After switching that around and putting the driver's side bolt through the mount, I was only able to get the bolt through the front hole on passenger side. Many people with this swap have had similar issues and say that it's a B**** to get the second bolt through (which it was). Some people have loosened the bolts on both the clamshells and mounts for a little "wiggle" room, where others have bolted the mounts to the motor and then dropped in. My method was a bit redneck, but it got the job done. I used a small jack to push the motor over into place so that the back hole on the mount would line up and knocked it through. Now on to the clutch, tranny, and headers. After that wiring....Here are some pics



  18. #58
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    Kick ass man.....I cant wait to see that thing in action.

  19. #59
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    Great progress so far. Really looking forward to seeing it in person this summer.

  20. #60
    Member pop6482's Avatar
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    Thanks.....it's really starting to come together now!!!

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