What torque converter for 99 TA with STS turbo?
This is a discussion on What torque converter for 99 TA with STS turbo? within the Forced Induction forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by 98Camarod You will benefit much more from the converter without the tune rather than leaving the stock ...
07-27-2009, 08:46 PM #41
07-28-2009, 01:58 AM #42
07-28-2009, 12:55 PM #43
For the stall, it's just not a yes/no answer as to whether you NEED tuning. If you get a lightweight unit then definitely. If you get something that is loose or inefficient up top then definitely.
Not all cars will act the same so it's kind of hard to predict.
07-28-2009, 08:41 PM #44
" The converter will not cause no engine braking on downshifts , That would be a mechanical issue with the trans internally"
forget it.. mechanic is gonna rebuild the trasnmission thanks everyone
08-15-2009, 10:37 AM #45
So my tranny's on the ground and the Yank 3600 is in it right now.
Came in for some lunch and then I'll starting throwing her back together.
You guys didn't tell me that this would be the worst tranny r/r I've ever done. Holy crap what a pain in the rear! I'm used to my 60's cars where you can do everything with a screwdriver and a 9/16 wrench! haha
PS.. I did well at the Pontiac Nationals last weekend. Made it down to 6 cars in my class!
The dude that beat me cut a .006 light. He deserved to win and I was happy to lose that way.
It was a good time.
Last edited by rick67; 08-15-2009 at 10:42 AM.
08-19-2009, 02:59 AM #46
Well, shes back together and I put the recommended 150 miles of break in on her over the last 2 nights and then took it for a few blasts on the back roads last night.
What a difference out of the hole! 2.2x 60 foots are a thing of the past I'm sure.
I'm a little concerned it's too much stall, but I'm racing tonight so I'll let the ET slip tell the story. I'll also be able to pay more attention to the tach and whatch exactly what's going on from lauch to finish line. On the back roads I'm a little too nervous to take my eyes off the road (cars, deers, etc..) while WOT.
08-19-2009, 11:18 AM #47
yeah launching under boost should make night and day difference, and a huge ET reduction.
08-19-2009, 07:01 PM #48
Well... we got rained out so I only got a couple tries at the tree with the new converter...
Last time I had it out it ran a best of 13.18 with a 2.2x 60' time
Best pass tonight was a 12.41 with a 1.81 60' time.
So basically, with NOTHING else changed, I dropped 4 tenths off my 60' and allmost 8 tenths off my ET. Awesome!
I only had a couple time trials, so I didn't get a chance to play with launch RPM much.
I can tell you that I launched off idle once and ran a 12.70 with a 2.00 60'
And my last one was the 12.41 with a 1.81 60' lauching at 2000 RPMS
Question for you all......
It's shifting at 6K, and dropping to 5K after the shift.
So pretty much the entire pass is done between 5K and 6K.
Does that sound like the right RPM band for my build?
Seems high to me... but what do I know?
Just for a recap... completely stock LS1, except bigger injectors, STS turbo 5PSI, a tune, and a 3600 stall Yank.
08-19-2009, 08:25 PM #49
The closer you get to boost on the line, the faster the car will run as well. What did you MPH on those passes? How far are you out in first gear before >3psi?
08-19-2009, 08:28 PM #50
- Join Date
- Aug 1999
- San Diego, Ca
- 383 Procharged & N20 Vert
08-20-2009, 04:01 PM #51
I spoke with Dave at Yank today and he said I should be launching at a higher rpm. I was working my way up up each pass but only made it to 2K before getting rained out. He thinks I should be launching up around 2600. We'll see next time out!
I used to run about 112MPH and now I ran about 109.50 all 3 passes with the converter.
How far out in first until boost? Seems like it's immediate! It literally seems as though the boost guage is connected directly to the gas pedal. But I'll pay closer attention next time I have her out.
As far as my torque curve....
Since I've never had it on a dyno, I don't have good numbers. But STS has graphs on their website of a 99 LS1, stock, with 5 lbs of boost.
Graphs are here : http://www.ststurbo.com/camaro_ls1
Peak HP is around 5400 and peak torque is around 4200 and they both REALLY dive after 5500-5600.
I would assume they should be very close to my graphs. Looks to me like I should/could drop my shift points at least a couple hundred rpms. I ordered a Diablo programmer today. We'll see what I can screw up with that!
Any recomendations on spark plugs? (part number and gap) Should they be any different because of my turbo?
Last edited by rick67; 08-20-2009 at 04:20 PM.
08-20-2009, 04:40 PM #52
- Join Date
- Aug 1999
- San Diego, Ca
- 383 Procharged & N20 Vert
Launch as high as you can without spinning.
I wouldn't shift too far past you HP peak.
08-21-2009, 08:03 PM #53
Have you had your car tuned yet?
08-21-2009, 10:07 PM #54
08-22-2009, 05:08 AM #55
The previous owner had it tuned when he had the STS system installed, but nope, I haven't had it tuned myself.
I do plan on having it tuned by a pro, but not until I install the meth injection and boost controller. The handheld will simply let me play with shift points for now. I don't plan to try to "tune" the car with it!
Frost.... .030 gap on the plugs?? Holy crap that's tight! Once again my 60's musclecar backgroud would have steered me very wrong. Thanks
08-22-2009, 08:28 AM #56
Haha.. no worries, I started out with old iron too
Those TR6s are a little colder than OEM (you may need to give them the newer NGK 4177 part number, I always forget to mention that) and the gap needs to be tight to keep from blowing out the spark. You may get by at 35, but it won't make any kind of difference in the way the car runs to pull them down to 30 and then you don't have to worry about blowing any spark out.
08-31-2009, 03:22 PM #57
I tried to start a new thread about this twice today. Once from work at lunchtime and another time from home tonight. Both times the website froze on me. Sooo... I'll try in this thread, I guess they both still apply to my car, I just thought the Diablo question should go in the "tuner area".
A couple issues....
- The Diablo: Well, I got the Diablo and started reading the instructions, and the first thing it tells me is to NOT use it if the car doesn't still have the factory tune in it. So I called Diablo tech and they confirmed that I can't even adjust shift points with the thing if there's already a custom tune in the car. I guess a Diablo expert needs to recreate my custom tune with Diablo software and then I'd be able to use it. Not sure if I want to mess around with all that. So it's looking like I'll be looking for a local tuner and go from there.
- Spark plugs: According to Frost and the rest of the LS1 world, TR6's are the best plug for my application, so I ordered some along with 8.8 wires. They'll be here in a couple days. In the meantime, I removed a plug tonight just to see what was in the car. It has Autolite 5245's in it, and after hours of searching the internet, I find that the Autolite 5245 is equivalent to a TR4 plug which is one step hotter than the standard TR5.
That begs the question.... Why would someone put HOTTER plugs in my car? I can't think of one good reason to do that?? Any ideas? Should I have ANY concerns about dropping 2 heat ranges??
Penny for your thoughts. And as always, thanks in advance!
08-31-2009, 04:22 PM #58
I had a problem with starting threads turns out the title was to long just make it short go back to edit it afterward and you will be golden.
08-31-2009, 10:47 PM #59
you should be running a TR6 (4177) gapped to about 0.030"
09-02-2009, 01:22 PM #60
I did find a local tuner who can tune my car, as well as set up the Diablo when he's done so I can play with shift points. I started a thread in the "tuner" section of the board to see if anyone has an opinion of the shop. (IPS Motorsports in Columbus Ohio)
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