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What torque converter for 99 TA with STS turbo?

This is a discussion on What torque converter for 99 TA with STS turbo? within the Forced Induction forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by 98Camarod You will benefit much more from the converter without the tune rather than leaving the stock ...

  1. #41
    Member TOMASINO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98Camarod View Post
    You will benefit much more from the converter without the tune rather than leaving the stock one in there.

    As for the lockup, there are commanded lockups for the converter and it must meet a mph for a certain throttle position. It is used for mpg gain ie dropping the rpms once you reach your cruising speed.
    nope not at all kind of speeds my tranny won't lock up, like before (oem converter) when i was drivin on streets i use "3" and the tranny will lock up at all times even on 1 or 2nd or 3rd now it only locks up driving on "D"(4th gear) but on 1 2 or 3 goes completly neutral, now im thinking is my lock up selenoid or just i need to tune the computer or maybe this is normal while running a stall from yank but they said it should lock up like before anybody has this problem before?? thanks for the help

  2. #42
    Car RamRod 98Camarod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frost View Post
    LOL, you did it again

  3. #43
    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98Camarod View Post
    LOL, you did it again
    I quoted my portion of the converter contribution.

    For the stall, it's just not a yes/no answer as to whether you NEED tuning. If you get a lightweight unit then definitely. If you get something that is loose or inefficient up top then definitely.

    Not all cars will act the same so it's kind of hard to predict.

  4. #44
    Member TOMASINO's Avatar
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    " The converter will not cause no engine braking on downshifts , That would be a mechanical issue with the trans internally"

    forget it.. mechanic is gonna rebuild the trasnmission thanks everyone

  5. #45
    Junior Member rick67's Avatar
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    So my tranny's on the ground and the Yank 3600 is in it right now.
    Came in for some lunch and then I'll starting throwing her back together.
    I'm stoked!

    You guys didn't tell me that this would be the worst tranny r/r I've ever done. Holy crap what a pain in the rear! I'm used to my 60's cars where you can do everything with a screwdriver and a 9/16 wrench! haha

    PS.. I did well at the Pontiac Nationals last weekend. Made it down to 6 cars in my class!
    The dude that beat me cut a .006 light. He deserved to win and I was happy to lose that way.
    It was a good time.
    Last edited by rick67; 08-15-2009 at 11:42 AM.

  6. #46
    Junior Member rick67's Avatar
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    Well, shes back together and I put the recommended 150 miles of break in on her over the last 2 nights and then took it for a few blasts on the back roads last night.
    What a difference out of the hole! 2.2x 60 foots are a thing of the past I'm sure.

    I'm a little concerned it's too much stall, but I'm racing tonight so I'll let the ET slip tell the story. I'll also be able to pay more attention to the tach and whatch exactly what's going on from lauch to finish line. On the back roads I'm a little too nervous to take my eyes off the road (cars, deers, etc..) while WOT.

  7. #47
    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    yeah launching under boost should make night and day difference, and a huge ET reduction.

  8. #48
    Junior Member rick67's Avatar
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    Well... we got rained out so I only got a couple tries at the tree with the new converter...

    End result....
    Last time I had it out it ran a best of 13.18 with a 2.2x 60' time
    Best pass tonight was a 12.41 with a 1.81 60' time.

    So basically, with NOTHING else changed, I dropped 4 tenths off my 60' and allmost 8 tenths off my ET. Awesome!


    I only had a couple time trials, so I didn't get a chance to play with launch RPM much.
    I can tell you that I launched off idle once and ran a 12.70 with a 2.00 60'
    And my last one was the 12.41 with a 1.81 60' lauching at 2000 RPMS

    Question for you all......
    It's shifting at 6K, and dropping to 5K after the shift.
    So pretty much the entire pass is done between 5K and 6K.
    Does that sound like the right RPM band for my build?
    Seems high to me... but what do I know?

    Just for a recap... completely stock LS1, except bigger injectors, STS turbo 5PSI, a tune, and a 3600 stall Yank.

  9. #49
    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    The closer you get to boost on the line, the faster the car will run as well. What did you MPH on those passes? How far are you out in first gear before >3psi?

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    Quote Originally Posted by rick67 View Post
    Question for you all......
    It's shifting at 6K, and dropping to 5K after the shift.
    So pretty much the entire pass is done between 5K and 6K.
    Does that sound like the right RPM band for my build?
    Seems high to me... but what do I know?

    Just for a recap... completely stock LS1, except bigger injectors, STS turbo 5PSI, a tune, and a 3600 stall Yank.
    Sounds a bit high. Where is your peak HP/TQ?

  11. #51
    Junior Member rick67's Avatar
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    I spoke with Dave at Yank today and he said I should be launching at a higher rpm. I was working my way up up each pass but only made it to 2K before getting rained out. He thinks I should be launching up around 2600. We'll see next time out!
    I used to run about 112MPH and now I ran about 109.50 all 3 passes with the converter.
    How far out in first until boost? Seems like it's immediate! It literally seems as though the boost guage is connected directly to the gas pedal. But I'll pay closer attention next time I have her out.

    As far as my torque curve....
    Since I've never had it on a dyno, I don't have good numbers. But STS has graphs on their website of a 99 LS1, stock, with 5 lbs of boost.
    Graphs are here : http://www.ststurbo.com/camaro_ls1

    Peak HP is around 5400 and peak torque is around 4200 and they both REALLY dive after 5500-5600.

    I would assume they should be very close to my graphs. Looks to me like I should/could drop my shift points at least a couple hundred rpms. I ordered a Diablo programmer today. We'll see what I can screw up with that!

    Any recomendations on spark plugs? (part number and gap) Should they be any different because of my turbo?
    Last edited by rick67; 08-20-2009 at 05:20 PM.

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    Launch as high as you can without spinning.
    I wouldn't shift too far past you HP peak.

  13. #53
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    Have you had your car tuned yet?

  14. #54
    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick67 View Post
    I spoke with Dave at Yank today and he said I should be launching at a higher rpm. I was working my way up up each pass but only made it to 2K before getting rained out. He thinks I should be launching up around 2600. We'll see next time out!
    I used to run about 112MPH and now I ran about 109.50 all 3 passes with the converter.
    How far out in first until boost? Seems like it's immediate! It literally seems as though the boost guage is connected directly to the gas pedal. But I'll pay closer attention next time I have her out.

    As far as my torque curve....
    Since I've never had it on a dyno, I don't have good numbers. But STS has graphs on their website of a 99 LS1, stock, with 5 lbs of boost.
    Graphs are here : http://www.ststurbo.com/camaro_ls1

    Peak HP is around 5400 and peak torque is around 4200 and they both REALLY dive after 5500-5600.

    I would assume they should be very close to my graphs. Looks to me like I should/could drop my shift points at least a couple hundred rpms. I ordered a Diablo programmer today. We'll see what I can screw up with that!

    Any recomendations on spark plugs? (part number and gap) Should they be any different because of my turbo?

    Why not just have your tuner lower your shift points to about 5500 instead of buying a handheld?

    For plugs for your setup, TR6 and gap to about 0.030"

  15. #55
    Junior Member rick67's Avatar
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    The previous owner had it tuned when he had the STS system installed, but nope, I haven't had it tuned myself.

    I do plan on having it tuned by a pro, but not until I install the meth injection and boost controller. The handheld will simply let me play with shift points for now. I don't plan to try to "tune" the car with it!

    Frost.... .030 gap on the plugs?? Holy crap that's tight! Once again my 60's musclecar backgroud would have steered me very wrong. Thanks

  16. #56
    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    Haha.. no worries, I started out with old iron too

    Those TR6s are a little colder than OEM (you may need to give them the newer NGK 4177 part number, I always forget to mention that) and the gap needs to be tight to keep from blowing out the spark. You may get by at 35, but it won't make any kind of difference in the way the car runs to pull them down to 30 and then you don't have to worry about blowing any spark out.

  17. #57
    Junior Member rick67's Avatar
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    Question

    I tried to start a new thread about this twice today. Once from work at lunchtime and another time from home tonight. Both times the website froze on me. Sooo... I'll try in this thread, I guess they both still apply to my car, I just thought the Diablo question should go in the "tuner area".

    A couple issues....

    - The Diablo: Well, I got the Diablo and started reading the instructions, and the first thing it tells me is to NOT use it if the car doesn't still have the factory tune in it. So I called Diablo tech and they confirmed that I can't even adjust shift points with the thing if there's already a custom tune in the car. I guess a Diablo expert needs to recreate my custom tune with Diablo software and then I'd be able to use it. Not sure if I want to mess around with all that. So it's looking like I'll be looking for a local tuner and go from there.

    - Spark plugs: According to Frost and the rest of the LS1 world, TR6's are the best plug for my application, so I ordered some along with 8.8 wires. They'll be here in a couple days. In the meantime, I removed a plug tonight just to see what was in the car. It has Autolite 5245's in it, and after hours of searching the internet, I find that the Autolite 5245 is equivalent to a TR4 plug which is one step hotter than the standard TR5.
    That begs the question.... Why would someone put HOTTER plugs in my car? I can't think of one good reason to do that?? Any ideas? Should I have ANY concerns about dropping 2 heat ranges??

    Penny for your thoughts. And as always, thanks in advance!

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    I had a problem with starting threads turns out the title was to long just make it short go back to edit it afterward and you will be golden.

  19. #59
    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    you should be running a TR6 (4177) gapped to about 0.030"

  20. #60
    Junior Member rick67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by c5z28 View Post
    I had a problem with starting threads turns out the title was to long just make it short go back to edit it afterward and you will be golden.
    Your probably right. Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by Frost View Post
    you should be running a TR6 (4177) gapped to about 0.030"
    Yep, got that part. TR6's are ordered along with new wires. Should be here any day now.

    I did find a local tuner who can tune my car, as well as set up the Diablo when he's done so I can play with shift points. I started a thread in the "tuner" section of the board to see if anyone has an opinion of the shop. (IPS Motorsports in Columbus Ohio)

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