Want to turbo or S/C 383 stroker

**greenvilleTA** · 03-03-2008, 04:43 PM

My wife just gave me the OK to get either a SC or turbo. Now, the fun is deciding which one, but I have a problem. I was talking to a guy at work who told me that if you get too small a turbo, then you wouldn't really gain that much.

One turbo system I saw had a T4 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97-02...em250220213167) and said it would produce around 530 rwhp.

I'm pushing around 430 rwhp and tq right now with bad valve springs...921s will be here this week. He said that the 530 is pretty much all I would get. I was hoping after springs I would be at 460 or more, then with a SC or turbo, maybe 550 or more. He asid the turbo was too small for my set up though.

Can someone PLEASE steer me in the right direction? My sig is below (red top 36# injectors not listed as well as a couple other little things). Motor barely has 2000 miles on it now.

Thanks in advance for the help

**joejenkinsglass** · 03-03-2008, 05:11 PM

the supercharger is an easier install and your exhaust would stay intact I do prefer a turbo but they are more complex and the rear mount systems arent as good as front mount just my opinion so do lots of research

**greenvilleTA** · 03-03-2008, 05:41 PM

Is there any relationship to the current horsepower to what size s/c or turbo you must run? In ither words, if a s/c was rated to 500 rwhp and I was already making 480 or something, would 500 pretty much be my limit?

My initial uneducated thought was that if a s/c or turbo could make 450 rwhp on a stock engine, then a s/c or turbi on my set up would make exponentially more power.

Any truth or myth to this?

Thanks!

**joejenkinsglass** · 03-03-2008, 05:52 PM

I don't know all the mathematical stuff but both a centrifical supercharger and a turbo are basically a remote compressor and when it says 500 hp that is just a ballpark estimate but the compressor will only push x amount of air then thats it my turbo is a gt45 master power 76mm and its limit is 800hp while a 88 mm would be like 1200hp its really all so vauge there is no other way than testing to know what will work best

**Frost** · 03-03-2008, 05:56 PM

I say looka t the ATI D1sc, a supercharger is an easier intro to FI than turbo, and once setup properly will last a very long time and be very reliable. With all of your mods, a little boost will go a long way. I would say with the compression you are running a meth kit will be a must too, and 60lb injectors. At only 7psi you should make 550rwhp with your mods and possibly as much as 580 depending on how aggressive you are on the meth and timing. This is close to the upper limit of a single Walbro in-tank pump and harness and meth system combined as well.

**greenvilleTA** · 03-03-2008, 06:13 PM

Is the meth kit a must because of possible detonation with higher compression? I was hoping to run pump gas, but doesn't sound like that's going to happen...I've never ran anything less than 93 octane since I owned the car.

I'm hoping to find a a used D1sc...much cheaper to rebuild than buy new, so I've heard anyways.

Thanks for all advice!

**Frost** · 03-03-2008, 07:39 PM

Originally Posted by greenvilleTA

Is the meth kit a must because of possible detonation with higher compression? I was hoping to run pump gas, but doesn't sound like that's going to happen...I've never ran anything less than 93 octane since I owned the car.

I'm hoping to find a a used D1sc...much cheaper to rebuild than buy new, so I've heard anyways.

Thanks for all advice!

It's not a must but with all of your other mods you are pushing it on a stock bottom end. It's not like you run all methanol, you run 93 and the meth pump turns on at like 2-3psi and ideally ramps up with boost. A 5-gallon can ($25) lasts me like 3-6 months depending on the time of year and I spray a lot of meth. It's automatic and transparent.

**cailey37** · 03-04-2008, 02:02 AM

You'll be able to run 93 and the methanol with no problem. I run a 60-40 mix and it's just fine. At full boost I only see inlet air temps of 94 degrees. I bought the snow performance kit. Works fine and I just plumbed it into my windshield washer tank. That way I have a built in indicator when it's getting low.

**greenvilleTA** · 03-04-2008, 09:57 AM

Thanks for all the advice.

Is my bottom end considered stock though? Eagle steel stroker crank, 4340 eagle h-beam rods, mahle forged flat tops, etc...basically, a eagle 383 stroker kit on a 2006 LSX block.

Just wondering...again, thanks for the advice and information!

**Frost** · 03-04-2008, 12:03 PM

Originally Posted by greenvilleTA

Thanks for all the advice.

Is my bottom end considered stock though? Eagle steel stroker crank, 4340 eagle h-beam rods, mahle forged flat tops, etc...basically, a eagle 383 stroker kit on a 2006 LSX block.

Just wondering...again, thanks for the advice and information!

oh heck no I missed that... but what is the SCR? Another reason for the meth unless it's like 9.5:1.

You have a long-stroke crank in an LSX block? Thought the 383 crank was the same crank used in a 40X" setup.... how many cubes do you have? That LSX block is serious bidness, which heads did you use, the ETPs or the ALL PROs?

**Frost** · 03-04-2008, 12:04 PM

Originally Posted by cailey37

You'll be able to run 93 and the methanol with no problem. I run a 60-40 mix and it's just fine. At full boost I only see inlet air temps of 94 degrees. I bought the snow performance kit. Works fine and I just plumbed it into my windshield washer tank. That way I have a built in indicator when it's getting low.

hrm.

F-bodies have no low washer fluid light... that's why the alkycontrol kit comes with one.

Some people like 60-40 or 50-50 since it won't burn if the tank is damaged and as noted it cools well; I prefer 100% meth for the octane value.

**greenvilleTA** · 03-04-2008, 12:42 PM

Originally Posted by Frost

oh heck no I missed that... but what is the SCR? Another reason for the meth unless it's like 9.5:1.

You have a long-stroke crank in an LSX block? Thought the 383 crank was the same crank used in a 40X" setup.... how many cubes do you have? That LSX block is serious bidness, which heads did you use, the ETPs or the ALL PROs?

I'm not sure what the Compression ratio is. The block was a brand new virgin LSX (aftermarket LS6 347 CI), then was made to accomodate Eagle 383 stroker kit. Every bit of this engine is new except for the covers. I believe the deck was shaved .010 just to true up and brand new Patriot Stage 2 heads which shouldn't have been shaved. I believe I got the -6cc mahle dished pistons. I believe this link is pretty much what I got...I didn't upgrade on anything (http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=884&catid=88)
From what I know, yes, this changes the CID from 347 to 383 since CID is just bore X stroke and with the longer throw crank, the stroke was changed which changed the CID calculation...old school 400 crank in a 350=383.

**cailey37** · 03-04-2008, 04:28 PM

Originally Posted by Frost

hrm.

F-bodies have no low washer fluid light... that's why the alkycontrol kit comes with one.

Some people like 60-40 or 50-50 since it won't burn if the tank is damaged and as noted it cools well; I prefer 100% meth for the octane value.

Holly hell....all this time I've been looking at my low radiator fluid light I guess...now you going to make go out and look at the car...lol

**Frost** · 03-04-2008, 08:54 PM

Originally Posted by greenvilleTA

I'm not sure what the Compression ratio is. The block was a brand new virgin LSX (aftermarket LS6 347 CI), then was made to accomodate Eagle 383 stroker kit. Every bit of this engine is new except for the covers. I believe the deck was shaved .010 just to true up and brand new Patriot Stage 2 heads which shouldn't have been shaved. I believe I got the -6cc mahle dished pistons. I believe this link is pretty much what I got...I didn't upgrade on anything (http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=884&catid=88)
From what I know, yes, this changes the CID from 347 to 383 since CID is just bore X stroke and with the longer throw crank, the stroke was changed which changed the CID calculation...old school 400 crank in a 350=383.

Right, here's the confusion; "the" LSX block is a 6-bolt/cyl big-inch block from GM that was not something that has ever been in a production vehicle. You are talking about a Ls1/Ls6 block.

That's still some healthy compression and even with the meth, timing needs to be looked at on the street if the car is tuned on a dynojet without load control or similar.

**greenvilleTA** · 03-05-2008, 04:38 AM

Ohhhh...I read somehwere that when the block was not made by GM (aftermarket) and late model requiring the shorter head bolts, it was called an LSX block. Sorry for the confusion, but yes then, it's an LS6 stroked to a 383. I think they said I'd be in the vicenity of 10.5:1 on CR.

Thanks for the help!

**ExStanger** · 03-11-2008, 07:20 PM

I have a 383ci LS1 with a forged bottem end and a Vortech T trim at 10 psi. with an aftercooler. I have heavily ported stock heads and a blower cam. I am waiting on my 60 lb injectors to come in and then I will get it tuned and give you the hp numbers. It will be pretty close to your setup. You better go ahead and order some 60lb injectors for whichever blower you put on it.

**Chad Nielson** · 03-17-2008, 04:24 PM

So whats up guys, how come there is no love for the remote mount systems??

**joejenkinsglass** · 03-17-2008, 06:11 PM

Originally Posted by Chad Nielson

So whats up guys, how come there is no love for the remote mount systems??

mine was remote mount and while it did work it just is not as good and I think the oiling issues with it was the cause of my motor failure you just don't know if there is a problem till its too late

**Chad Nielson** · 03-17-2008, 06:23 PM

That is true, but STS has solved all of those problems.

**cailey37** · 03-17-2008, 06:48 PM

Originally Posted by joejenkinsglass

mine was remote mount and while it did work it just is not as good and I think the oiling issues with it was the cause of my motor failure you just don't know if there is a problem till its too late

Have another motor failure right here with the STS kit......but it couldn't be because of the oil problem.....at least thats what I was told.....