True Street Build

**scott5** · 10-21-2014, 08:31 AM

Well since I just got back on here I guess I will post up my new build. After going after the stock CI nitrous record for ls1s and blowing up the motor I knew right then and there that I did not want another race car that I never could drive and wasn't street friendly. So I sold the roller and everything from that car and start fresh and get a clean slate. After thinking what I really wanted I decided to build a true street car to compete in the LSX series and something that I can drive anywhere anytime, run 8s and possibly 7s and enjoy it. Well with me moving to NC and getting a house and starting a new job I knew that wouldn't happen right off the bat so I decided Im going to do this on a couple stages so I can enjoy the car along the process and not have it sitting to where I may get bored and give up on the project. This car had a H/C Fast 102 setup and has been 10.2s on stock suspension for most part and sold it in favor of funding the new turbo build. So here is the patient

This is day I bought it. 99 Z28 A4

How it sits right now.

**scott5** · 10-21-2014, 08:52 AM

The first part of this build will consist of an Iron 347 with a pieced together Huron Speed truck manifold kit with an on3 78/75 turbo on it to get the bugs worked out, get used to the car and upgrade other parts of the car.

The first goal of the car will be 9.5-10.0s in the first couple outings with 9.0 being the final goal of this current setup.

Engine Setup
Iron 5.3 block to 347
Stock Crank
6.125 Compstar Rods with ARP 2k bolts
Diamond -2cc pistons (9.7 CR)
LS9 head gaskets
Cleaned up 317 heads
BTR .660 platinum kit springs
Stock rockers with BTR trunnions
Speed Inc Tu2 cam
LS6 intake
Ls2 timing chain
LS2 lifter trays with ls7 lifters
ARP head bolts/studs or Procomp head studs unsure which yet

I have 98% of these parts and almost ready to be sent to machine shop. The motor will be going to HED for the machine work and bottom end assembled.

I will throw up some more pics and some more info each day to keep me motivated and not at a stand still.

If any suggestions or questions post them up

**Hi-Po** · 10-21-2014, 04:33 PM

Looks good. My build got started by an overzealous employee way, way too early. Before I knew it, the engine was out and engine torn down to nothing. It has been one long road since then. Driving it in between would be helpful to keep the motivation up and not get so frustrated with POS parts vendors (DKT turbo and anyone affiliated with him, yes you too, Jerod). Building something serious comes with some major risks, you are at most times, at the mercy of these vendors to ship you parts on time, and correctly. Good luck, sounds like you know what you're doing!

**scott5** · 10-21-2014, 08:14 PM

All my vendors and machine shops are all local to me. Kevin Mullins will be doing the motor work down at HED which is only 30 mins from me and my tuning and parts and fabbing come from Mayhem Motorsports in Raleigh which is about an hour from me. And a lot of this will be done by me. Only going to source out parts that I cant make due to lack of tools or beyond my ability. I will update with some pics of the motor and motor parts

**35th-ANV-SS** · 10-22-2014, 11:55 AM

Nice. I have a friend that is a reputable builder and he has built several of these turbo'd smaller CI motors and they respond extremely well to boost.

**scott5** · 10-22-2014, 03:51 PM

There are a few high hp ones. Alot of people dismiss them a good bit to do bigger ci builds which helped me keep this motor under 1500 bucks

**scott5** · 10-23-2014, 09:54 AM

Well got some pics of the parts that I am buying for this project.

5.3 shortblock

Diamond Pistons

Speed Inc TU2

Springs and my wrinkle black timing cover

317 heads

LS6 intake

**scott5** · 10-25-2014, 07:59 AM

Well with the final purchase of my engine yesterday ( my compstar rods) my motor is all bought. Grand total came to $2060 which I don't think is too bad for 1k hp capable shortblock

**Hi-Po** · 10-25-2014, 08:22 AM

Originally Posted by scott5

Well with the final purchase of my engine yesterday ( my compstar rods) my motor is all bought. Grand total came to $2060 which I don't think is too bad for 1k hp capable shortblock

Absolutely. No reason to go crazy on high dollar parts or huge CI. Put a good tune on it and it will last a long time.

What's the machine work and assembly costing?

**scott5** · 10-25-2014, 08:43 AM

The reason for more CI down the road is because bigger turbo or twin 7xs.. The ultimate goal for this car is to go 7s in street form and run some of the fastest true street passes at the LSX series. With Dave stepping up his game and 2 or 3 cars at Indy going 8.2s its going to be a challenge but with the couple places I have helping with the process I should be able to do it.

Kevin Mullins will be doing the machine work and bottom end assembly at HED which for machine work, cleaning/valve job of the heads, cleaning and polishing of crank, bearings, and assembly and all that jazz it will come in right around 1-1500

**scott5** · 10-25-2014, 08:53 AM

So alil less than 4k for a complete 1k capable motor with aftermarket parts isn't too bad I guess.

Next up is the suspension. I am a true believer in Eric at MWC, my last car is even on his website, but with him getting more busy its taking longer to get parts from him and with him more into the pure race of the setup decided to look around to see whats out there as my nitrous record car had every MWC piece on it from front to rear.

I wanted a simple yet effective setup that I wouldn't have to check and tweek everytime I drove it or raced it. Adjustability is great, BUT this is a street car capable DD that I didn't want all that, I wanted simple, light weight pieces.

Kyle from BMR reached out to me on another site and was told he could make me some offers that I couldn't pass up. After talking to him about the goals and plans of the car, he told me what he could offer and I signed up. So this car will be representating all suspension parts either made by BMR or supplied by BMR. The only two parts on the car that wont be by them is my MWC front and rear support bars which I explained and was given an ok to run. So far what I have acquired are LCAs, turbo k-member, and my battery relocation kit. If ya'll wanna know my full suspension setup I will gladly give a run down. This car will be setup by me.

**pajeff02** · 10-25-2014, 10:06 AM

Subscribed. Looking forward to seeing this all go together.

**scott5** · 10-25-2014, 05:11 PM

Me too Jeff!

Today I had time and was able to talk to Casey over at Huron speed about my setup. I currently have the V1 kit which relocates the alternator and well I HATE that. So we talked about my options and decided I'm going to sell the hot side and buy the new headers they make and build a new hot side and that will save me about 900 in the end which will help in other parts of the build! They want around 1750 for the full hot side. I can get the headers for 750 and get the crossover made for about 100 by one of the best in NC, David Farlow.

**scott5** · 10-28-2014, 07:22 AM

Last piece of my engine puzzle. Compstar rods with ARP 2000 rod bolts

**scott5** · 11-02-2014, 05:59 PM

Okay guys. Going to need a little help with fuel setup. I am going with a nasty n8 system in the end, but like I said I'm just trying to get this up and running. Right now my fuel system is stock. And the rails and lines should be good for about 700-800hp and will be enough for now. Injectors I will be using are 80lbs which will be good for now and built motor. The consensus seems to do twin 255s. I have been thinking since it will be a stock motor at first on low boost working kinks out on a lil turbo of putting in a single 340 aeromotive in tank then adding a 255 later on. And later I would use the 255 as primary and the 340 on a Hobbs switch.

Thoughts on this? Read the 340 in tank is up there with the 044 in line and seems the 340 will go alil farther than the stock lines and rails which will all be replaced when my bigger turbo goes on.

Suggestions? Remember budget build! Yes the twin 255s are only 650 but the 340 i can get for 125 and to me it seems a 255 and 340 would be better than 255x2

I'm no fuel expert

**Hi-Po** · 11-05-2014, 01:58 PM

Originally Posted by scott5

Okay guys. Going to need a little help with fuel setup. I am going with a nasty n8 system in the end, but like I said I'm just trying to get this up and running. Right now my fuel system is stock. And the rails and lines should be good for about 700-800hp and will be enough for now. Injectors I will be using are 80lbs which will be good for now and built motor. The consensus seems to do twin 255s. I have been thinking since it will be a stock motor at first on low boost working kinks out on a lil turbo of putting in a single 340 aeromotive in tank then adding a 255 later on. And later I would use the 255 as primary and the 340 on a Hobbs switch.

Thoughts on this? Read the 340 in tank is up there with the 044 in line and seems the 340 will go alil farther than the stock lines and rails which will all be replaced when my bigger turbo goes on.

Suggestions? Remember budget build! Yes the twin 255s are only 650 but the 340 i can get for 125 and to me it seems a 255 and 340 would be better than 255x2

I'm no fuel expert

You lost me at the 'budget build', my only suggestion doesn't apply really, but figured I would throw the option out there.

I would just build the fuel system one time and be done if you're planning on high HP. I'm running the Nasty setup (Behind Bars Racecars tank actually) and the tank will not fit the straps without some longer bolts or different straps. I would honestly just buy the fittings and hose yourself and save money. I could try and compile a list of mine, it's long and tedious, though.

I went overkill on my fuel setup, big time. But the biggest complaint of anyone who has built a high HP car, is buying the fuel system twice.

Since you are using the Nasty sumped tank, you could easily run the Holley 12-1800 external/internal pump. It's very quiet even in external placement! It's two pumps inside and you can run around out of boost with only one pump on so you don't heat the fuel up. Boost hits, have it referenced to turn the other pump on... boom, 950/1000ish on gasoline. Best of all, it's reliable and very quiet!

If you are set on a dual/triple in tank setup, the ideas you have should work well. I don't have any experience with those, though.

**scott5** · 11-21-2014, 08:40 PM

Well as I type this, the camaro is being tore apart right now and getting light and a nitrous setup in it. I just can't stay away from spray. So all the turbo stuff will be going into a TA with the same goal. I will update this once a roller is bought.

I have got my fan and rad setup in, the truck manifolds and the heads are going to Advanced Inductions next week.

Also ordered all my fuel stuff and the complete cold side

Turbo is going to be a s475s t6 right out of the gate and will be ordered as soon as both sets of my heads are done at AI as they are doing the 862s for my nitrous build

**scott5** · 11-22-2014, 06:29 PM

This project will stay it's course as my offer of 400 was accepted on a 99 firebird that I will be driving home next weekend. Will post pics soon

**scott5** · 11-07-2015, 10:31 PM

Wow have things have changed after re reading this build. I has went WAY off course and went way too deep into it lol.
Summary as of right now the car has a s475 Kit on it with a fender exhaust, big and littles, built rear, getting th 400 swapped and going with a 3.8 bore 5.3 with lil John custom weiscos. The setup is still in the Camaro as the firebird flew away for more money than what I paid for it.. Here is a pic of the car now. I will update this thread better after work.