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Pro charger suggestions

This is a discussion on Pro charger suggestions within the Forced Induction forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by z28misfit I would take the easy route and just buy nitrous, but I don't feel like having ...

  1. #21
    Member GA Country Boy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by z28misfit View Post
    I would take the easy route and just buy nitrous, but I don't feel like having to always get a bottle filled.
    You've always got to get your gas tank filled, so it's somewhat the same idea except you wont have to do it as often. Also if money is a problem it's a lot cheaper than putting a blower on and a heck of a lot cheaper than replacing a
    demolished engine. But you can run a 150 hp or less Nitrous sytem with a good tune fairly safely and have a lot of fun. And you can always use bigger bottles and/or even dual bottles to keep you going longer between fill-ups.

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    Senior Member FasstChevys's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GA Country Boy View Post
    Sorry didn't mean for anybody to get their nose out of joint. You're doing good running 11's. You should get it on the dyno and see what you're putting down,
    because ET's alone don't tell the whole story. I have a friend who's putting down
    425rwhp (175rwhp less than me), but ran the 1/4 faster at 10:58/125.45.

    As to the cam, compare the specs of the two, and read what Procharger recommends. If you're not going to believe the people who make your blower,
    who are you going to believe?
    Wow, your friend must have a great set up and a car that hooks like death! My Camaro has approx. 440 rwhp and runs 11.70's, (1.70 60' foot times) but, it's also 3580 lbs without me in it. It sounds like your friend's car might be considerably lighter, and most definitely hooks better.

    I guess in closing, the people I tend to believe are the people who actually do it and deal with all the quirks and problems. I think Bob w/EPP is an excellent example of just that, and I trust what he says. Hell, I deal with engineers all day at work, and they always tell me what "should" work, or what it "should" do, without ever running the process themselves. I'm not necessarily saying ProCharger (or any other company for that matter) doesn't do any research, but I do know Bob has.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GA Country Boy View Post
    Which model Procharger are you running and how much are you putting down?

    Taken from WWW.Lingenfelter.com:

    "Lingenfelter GT2-3 LS1 Camshaft & Spring Kit Lingenfelter offers one of the best STREET camshafts available for the LS1 engine. The Lingenfelter GT2-3 camshaft will produce excellent power and still have a smooth idle for automatic or six speed manual transmission equipped vehicles. Tests have shown 25-30 HP improvements over factory LS1 camshafts.
    Suggested in 350-427 CID applications
    Camshaft specifications: 207/220 573/.580 w 1.7 rocker 118.5 CL. Kit includes GM LS6 valve springs #12586484 which use the stock factory LS1 valve spring retainer. Camshafts ground by Competition Cams for Lingenfelter."

    BUT I think Lingenfelter's GT1 Cam would be better for a BLOWER CAR. Here are the specs: LS1-GT1-1 229 / 242 .631" / .631" 114 CL
    Again it depends on whether you want performance or a mildly modded car.
    That GT1 cam is not an optimal cam for a blower car unless it is gonna be a weekend driver or see mostly track time. That is just my opinion though. It seems a little too big!

    I made 546rwhp with a set of worked stock heads(241 casting), 214/224 cam and 7 psi through P-1SC. That is the beauty of FI it lets you run a slightly milder set-up for driveability purposes and still make a decent amount of power when desire to!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Packy View Post
    That GT1 cam is not an optimal cam for a blower car unless it is gonna be a weekend driver or see mostly track time. That is just my opinion though. It seems a little too big!

    I made 546rwhp with a set of worked stock heads(241 casting), 214/224 cam and 7 psi through P-1SC. That is the beauty of FI it lets you run a slightly milder set-up for driveability purposes and still make a decent amount of power when desire to!!!
    That's why I qualified what I said "depends on what you want etc". You're doing good with a P-1SC-1. The best I could do with that blower @7 psi on a completely stock motor (.479/.467 207/196 116 lsa) was 455/442. You're making almost 100rwhp more than I was and nearly as much as I am now with a D-1SC, forged motor, worked heads, lower c/r and 14 psi! AND you were somewhere between 620 and 665 hp at the flywheel! That's really impressive!!! That's almost a 100% increase over stock!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by GA Country Boy View Post
    That's why I qualified what I said "depends on what you want etc". You're doing good with a P-1SC-1. The best I could do with that blower @7 psi on a completely stock motor (.479/.467 207/196 116 lsa) was 455/442. You're making almost 100rwhp more than I was and nearly as much as I am now with a D-1SC, forged motor, worked heads, lower c/r and 14 psi! AND you were somewhere between 620 and 665 hp at the flywheel! That's really impressive!!! That's almost a 100% increase over stock!!!

    I know you stated that before. I was just wanting to give him some more examples.

    I have a forged motor with a lower c/r also. Only I have half the boost you do. Some day here soon I am going to add a Meth kit with my new pulley and take her for a re-tune!!! Then maybe I'll see the 6XX to the wheels...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Packy View Post
    I know you stated that before. I was just wanting to give him some more examples.

    I have a forged motor with a lower c/r also. Only I have half the boost you do. Some day here soon I am going to add a Meth kit with my new pulley and take her for a re-tune!!! Then maybe I'll see the 6XX to the wheels...
    BTW Packy, I forgot to ask what is the lift and lsa of your cam? What size is
    your pulley and what are going to put on?

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    Quote Originally Posted by GA Country Boy View Post
    BTW Packy, I forgot to ask what is the lift and lsa of your cam? What size is
    your pulley and what are going to put on?
    My lift is .541/.541 and LSA is 114. It is a relatively small cam in the LSX world... My current pulley is a 3.7" and my new one is a RR 3.3"! It will be a few weeks before I put the other one on and get the Meth kit in and hooked up. I get busy with work so I don't have a lot of free time and when I do have free time I like to spend it with my family!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Packy View Post
    My lift is .541/.541 and LSA is 114. It is a relatively small cam in the LSX world... My current pulley is a 3.7" and my new one is a RR 3.3"! It will be a few weeks before I put the other one on and get the Meth kit in and hooked up. I get busy with work so I don't have a lot of free time and when I do have free time I like to spend it with my family!
    The most obvious difference with your cam to the GT1 is the higher lift (LS1-GT1-1 229 / 242 .631" / .631" 114 CL) and the longer duration, but they are BOTH 114 LSA which is extremely important with FI engines. So your cam is obviously a little milder. My current cam is 221/224 .558 on 116 lsa + 4 degrees, pretty close to yours, but with a little more lift and lsa.
    ATI recommends:"Lobe separation: 112 to 116 degrees Split pattern: Exhaust duration and lift approximately 10 degrees and .010, respectively, greater than intake. Install cam straight up."
    If you haven't switched from 6 to 8 rib yet you may run into belt slippage with a 3.3" pulley. BUT if you can get it to work you might just see around
    10 or 11 psi !!! I'm running an 8 rib 3.60" and the D-1SC is pretty well maxed out at 14 psi. I have an F-1R, but it's standard rotation and I would have to convert it to reverse to use it on the Y-body. Good luck!

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    Quote Originally Posted by GA Country Boy View Post
    The most obvious difference with your cam to the GT1 is the higher lift (LS1-GT1-1 229 / 242 .631" / .631" 114 CL) and the longer duration, but they are BOTH 114 LSA which is extremely important with FI engines. So your cam is obviously a little milder. My current cam is 221/224 .558 on 116 lsa + 4 degrees, pretty close to yours, but with a little more lift and lsa.
    ATI recommends:"Lobe separation: 112 to 116 degrees Split pattern: Exhaust duration and lift approximately 10 degrees and .010, respectively, greater than intake. Install cam straight up."
    If you haven't switched from 6 to 8 rib yet you may run into belt slippage with a 3.3" pulley. BUT if you can get it to work you might just see around
    10 or 11 psi !!! I'm running an 8 rib 3.60" and the D-1SC is pretty well maxed out at 14 psi. I have an F-1R, but it's standard rotation and I would have to convert it to reverse to use it on the Y-body. Good luck!
    No, I have a 6 rib set-up. My pulley is from Reichard Racing though. You know their anti-slip style pullies. My goal is just to get a tiny bit more power!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Packy View Post
    No, I have a 6 rib set-up. My pulley is from Reichard Racing though. You know their anti-slip style pullies. My goal is just to get a tiny bit more power!
    I use their pulleys too (despite paying $160 each) because I believe they are the best although the last one I put on I had to do a little machining to make it line up properly. You SHOULD make a "tiny" bit more power!

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    Quote Originally Posted by GA Country Boy View Post
    I use their pulleys too (despite paying $160 each) because I believe they are the best although the last one I put on I had to do a little machining to make it line up properly. You SHOULD make a "tiny" bit more power!
    I picked one up for $50 from someone on another site!

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    I talked to Lg and they pretty much told me that my g5x4 isn't going to work to good. I figured that, but can I still benefit from the procharger. I mean it still has to work and make me at least another 100hp over what I have now right?I just didn't feel like pulling heads and putting different ones on and only getting about another 45-50hp versus what a blower would add.
    99 z28 cam,m6 ,S60 4.56gears,Fast 90/90 full boltons,more mods one day.
    11.2 @ 123mph.

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    Quote Originally Posted by z28misfit View Post
    I talked to Lg and they pretty much told me that my g5x4 isn't going to work to good. I figured that, but can I still benefit from the procharger. I mean it still has to work and make me at least another 100hp over what I have now right?I just didn't feel like pulling heads and putting different ones on and only getting about another 45-50hp versus what a blower would add.
    Let me say up front that I do not have the specs for your cam, but I am told it is pretty radical with a lot of overlap which isn't the way to get the best out of
    your blower since you will lose boost where you need it the most. IMHO if you're going to the considerable expense of a blower you might as well do it right and get the most benefit from it. You can try using your cam, but you know in advance you're not going to produce the results you want, and you can always change the cam later. The cheapest alternative is nitrous. You can add 150 HP
    in a heart beat!

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    I thought of nitrous already but not sure if want to mess with it or not. At least the power of a blower is always there. You don't have to worry about filling a bottle. Also with nitrous you should run colder plugs as with a supercharger. The thing I'm worried about is with nitrous is that by running a colder plug, when I don't use it on the street I'll probably loose a little power with the colder plug. At least with a blower you don't have the option to shut it off.
    Last edited by z28misfit; 09-28-2006 at 11:36 AM.

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    Can you even get a blower cam that sounds like my G5x4 at an idle or not? I was just wondering because when you look at old hot rods and stuff with 671's and 871 blowers on them they sound mean and don't idle smooth.

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