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Thread: MAF
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09-23-2010, 09:19 PM #1
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- Sep 2010
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- Farmington Hills, MI
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Navy Blue Metallic- 2002 Trans Am WS6 NBM
MAF
Is changing out the MAF a good mod? Does it really add 8-25 HP? The stock MAF is made of metal and the other ones I have seen are plastic. Are the after market better, do they last?
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09-23-2010, 09:25 PM #2
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09-23-2010, 09:32 PM #3
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- Sep 2010
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Navy Blue Metallic- 2002 Trans Am WS6 NBM
The after market MAF's don't have the screens on them. I switched out my lid to an SLP and cleaned everything I touched and had to blow off a bunch of debris. It doesn't seem like the after markets would be a good idea. Any body seen a MAF aftermarket with a screen? I guess I could put one on, but then what is the point of replacing it then.
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09-23-2010, 10:42 PM #4
I swapped mine out for a granatelli cause it went bad but otherwise the stock unit works fine.
1998 Trans Am 85k miles.
Bolt ons, MS3 113LSA cam, Circle D Stall, Tune, Modified WS6 style hood, Full Suspension, 6000k HID's, Clear Side Markers w/ Leds, Led 3rd Brake Light and 18" AR Staggered Killer Wheels w/ BFG KDW NT's.- Weekend Toy/DD
02 Trailblazer -Sold
09 Ram 1500 CC - Sold
09 Cobalt SS/TC - Sold
13 ram 1500 LoneStar CC 4x4 - Magnaflow, K&N,and more to come-DD/Toy
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09-23-2010, 11:29 PM #5
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- Apr 2001
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- Surf City, NC
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- 2,499
Black/Screaming Yellow- 99 S/C TA WS6 & 04 Cobra
No, it is not worth the cost. However plastic maf ends are and will help with Heatsoaking on an FI car.
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09-24-2010, 03:44 AM #6
The stock MAF will support almost 500 h.p. As a general rule you should not de-blade it, de-screen it or port it. The MAF works by maintaining the small sensor wires at a certain temp in the airstream. By measuring the voltage required to hold the temp, the PCM knows how much air is coming into the engine. When you hack up the MAF you change its flow characteristics and this then throws off the reading. More air is actually coming into the engine than the MAF is reading and this results in a lean condition.
The issue with aftermarket MAF's is their calibration as it generally does not match the output of the stock unit for the same volume of air. Again, you usually end up with a lean condition when you swap out the MAF. With tuning software and an air-fuel gauge, you can shut off other engine sensors so that fueling is being controlled by the MAF and then make calibration changes in the MAF table. From what I have read posted by some of the tuners on here though, they still seem to have issues and are therefore not recommended.
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09-24-2010, 04:21 AM #7
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- Jan 2006
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- Shepherd, Michigan
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blacker than wesleysnipes- 98' trans am
in general only change your stock maf with other stock mafs..like the 85mm oem units etc
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09-24-2010, 04:32 AM #8
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09-24-2010, 04:35 AM #9
Ebay....got mine for $30.
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09-24-2010, 05:11 AM #10
The GM replacement MAF for our cars is actually an 85 mm unit with a plastic housing. Pics and details in this thread: http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113122
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09-24-2010, 05:20 AM #11
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09-27-2010, 04:29 PM #12
Modifying the stock MAF is not good for the reasons stated above...
You really only need an 85mm if you have a stroker or wild heads/cam... and then, I recommend a stock one without the resistors in them (stay away from the crap from SLP) and tune the car for it... The ones that use resistors to skew the readings to "calibrate" them for an F-body are not accurate at all and can give some poor readings...
GM EFI Tuner
2002 Trans Am WS6 - 9.41@143mph, #3675, on pump gas and drag radials - sold
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10-01-2010, 06:50 PM #13
I'm getting by on a stock MAF ECM tuned for WFO only
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