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How Far Am I From a Blower?

This is a discussion on How Far Am I From a Blower? within the Forced Induction forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Looks like I have a 383 in the making.......

  1. #21
    Wants to be Snowboarding FuhBreezeE's Avatar
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    Stg IV a4
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    Looks like I have a 383 in the making....

  2. #22
    Double Tap Heartbreak1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fabrizi View Post
    Looks like I have a 383 in the making....
    Does it absolutely have to be FI? I would shoot for a 396 or a 427. But im an all motor kind of guy so thats just my .02

  3. #23
    Wants to be Snowboarding FuhBreezeE's Avatar
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    Stg IV a4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Heartbreak1 View Post
    Does it absolutely have to be FI? I would shoot for a 396 or a 427. But im an all motor kind of guy so thats just my .02
    I wanna be able to keep my existing parts. H/C/I etc... or else I'd go for the Ls3/7

  4. #24
    Double Tap Heartbreak1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fabrizi View Post
    I wanna be able to keep my existing parts. H/C/I etc... or else I'd go for the Ls3/7
    Hmm check into a 396. It might be pushing the limits but it looks like 383 is your best shot if you plan to keep the exsisting stuff.

  5. #25
    Wants to be Snowboarding FuhBreezeE's Avatar
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    Sweet! Something about a 383 that's just nasty IMO.

  6. #26
    Double Tap Heartbreak1's Avatar
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    lol im out for the night. later bro

  7. #27
    Wants to be Snowboarding FuhBreezeE's Avatar
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    Stg IV a4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Heartbreak1 View Post
    lol im out for the night. later bro
    Later...

  8. #28
    doesn'tplaywellwithothers superchargedblackgto's Avatar
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    You could go with the "stock" maggie, I think it's about 6-8 psi, with that set-up, BTW, from what I understand our crank and bottom end is good for about 800hp, now you will have to key the crank and if you want any more boost than that you'll probably have to change the heads, cam, and pistons, basically the upper -end..........but what do I know, my .02 worth
    '04 gto M6 slp ceramic coated headers,B&m sport shifter,harrop cover,3.5"aluminum BMR driveshaft, BMR axle stubs, BMR Half shafts, BMR SFC's, loudmouth2 exaust,90mm FAST T/B,Magancharger(high helix upgrade)......other misc. suspension,Cross drilled, slotted rotors. Meth Kit, spraying @ 3psi and up

  9. #29
    Wants to be Snowboarding FuhBreezeE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by superchargedblackgto View Post
    You could go with the "stock" maggie, I think it's about 6-8 psi, with that set-up, BTW, from what I understand our crank and bottom end is good for about 800hp, now you will have to key the crank and if you want any more boost than that you'll probably have to change the heads, cam, and pistons, basically the upper -end..........but what do I know, my .02 worth
    Well since you're running a Maggie, you know more than most. Thanks for the input!

  10. #30
    Junior Member blewbyu's Avatar
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    Ls1 motors that are in Decent condition should be good for 500 & 550 rwhpon 8lbs of boost U may wanna throw the 112 Away ,U also wanna Ditch the 30lb injectors ,42 min 60 max on the base sc setup,The 112 Lsa will Kill your Boost ,u want a Cam with a Higher LSA Something like a 115,116,117,118 ,U dont have to go big in Duration or lift either,The 59cc Ls6 heads very well may hurt your compression when trying to add the sc ,U may wanna consider the 64cc heads ,the 59 cc just means u cant run as much boost because your compression is higher than someone with the same setupRunning the 64cc head Good Luck with your choice

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    blewbyu just said everything i was gonna say, listen to him. i've had two supercharged
    gen III's and know a few things about em

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    Quote Originally Posted by Heartbreak1 View Post
    112 LSA in an auto?! Thats a first for me! I thought general rule was autos didn't go over 113 LSA unless motor was fully built.
    Tr224/112 here on stock bottom end no problems. Also Tsp stage 2.5 5.3 heads too. If you have a decent tuner a 112 or even 111 lsa is not a problem in an A4.Now on boost I would do atleast a 114 or higher

  13. #33
    Member Bouvers's Avatar
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    EXCELLENT people that are talking about the numbers for heads/cam... I'm trying to learn one each of those numbers represent anybody want to dumb it down a shade and explain to me what they mean?
    the LSA is what... and would it be wrong to assume that the LSA 115-118 is the same thing as the cc's of the heads too? please give me as much information as you can stand to type. I'm looking into FI right now too so this is all very beneficial to me.

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bouvs View Post
    EXCELLENT people that are talking about the numbers for heads/cam... I'm trying to learn one each of those numbers represent anybody want to dumb it down a shade and explain to me what they mean?
    the LSA is what... and would it be wrong to assume that the LSA 115-118 is the same thing as the cc's of the heads too? please give me as much information as you can stand to type. I'm looking into FI right now too so this is all very beneficial to me.
    LSA is Lobe Separation Angle. It is the distance, in degrees, between the centerline (point of maximum lift, like top dead center) of the intake lobe to the centerline of the exhaust lobe. A cam with lower LSA (say 112*) would have a more narrow overlap, or the amount of time the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time.

    "CC's of the heads" refers to the combustion chamber size in cubic centimeters. So a 64cc head would have a 64cubic centimeter combustion chamber.

  15. #35
    Member Bouvers's Avatar
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    so would you want a bigger LSA for a FI car? if so why I don't really understand that... is it in an attempt to reduce high compression or long durations of high compression. I was also thinking that larger heads would benefit a FI car... how many cc's would a pair of 6.0L heads be?
    As far as minimizing compression ratio's whats too low? Or is there no need at all? But my understanding of it is the lower your compression ratio the more boost you can handle. but I don't think I'll ever run more then 8#'s so is there even a use in lowering my compression ratio?

  16. #36
    Senior Member Zboner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Heartbreak1 View Post
    112 LSA in an auto?! Thats a first for me! I thought general rule was autos didn't go over 113 LSA unless motor was fully built.

    i had a 112 in my auto car. it did eat transmissions though. lol

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bouvs View Post
    so would you want a bigger LSA for a FI car? if so why I don't really understand that... is it in an attempt to reduce high compression or long durations of high compression. I was also thinking that larger heads would benefit a FI car... how many cc's would a pair of 6.0L heads be?
    As far as minimizing compression ratio's whats too low? Or is there no need at all? But my understanding of it is the lower your compression ratio the more boost you can handle. but I don't think I'll ever run more then 8#'s so is there even a use in lowering my compression ratio?
    I'm not a FI guru. But the stock comp ratio of our cars is bordering on detonation (or ping) if you push to much boost. I've heard around 6-8 psi is alright but there are simple things you can do to lower the comp ratio slightly without changing out your pistons. There are some companies that make thicker head gaskets to lower the comp ratio, stuff like that. I'm not sure of the reliability on these but I haven't heard anything bad yet. Between 115-118* LSA would be good. I've heard of guys running more narrow and boosting but there always seems to be issues down the road. As for the heads, I'm new to the LS1 world so I'm not sure exactly what size ours are yet. But it shouldn't be to hard to google. Minimizing the C/R, you'd probably be safe around 9.0:1 at 12 psi...I think. There are some extremely knowledgable people on here with stuff like this. I'm sure they would be able to give you better #'s.

    As for durations. It's pretty simple when you think about it. The longer the duration the intake valve stays open the more air you can put into the chamber. The more air in the chamber the more fuel you can add to it without reducing your air/fuel ratio. The more air/fuel in the chamber the bigger the bang and the more efficient the burn (actual A/F that is burned and not wasted.) The longer the exhaust valve stays open the more exhaust is allowed to be pushed out. The more exhaust that is pushed out the more clean air can be admitted. Thus the cycle. If you overlap too much you won't be allowing hot, exhaust air out as efficiently or allowing clean, cooler air in as well. But it allows for quicker actions to take place. Which allows the enigine to build higher RPM's and faster. The duration of a cam is usually measured at .050. This means the amount of time the intake (or exhaust) valve will stay open from just after the point at which the valve starts to open (at .050" open) to right before it is completely closed (.050" open). Overlap is determined by the LSA. With all the numbers i.e. Duration, LSA, head CFM, intake CFM, # of cylinders, injector size, duty cycle, pulse width, fuel pressure, air temp, MAF readings, among a laundry list of others is how the computer tries to, as effeciently as possible, place as much power to the ground as it can.

    To make a long story short...there is no replacement for displacement.

  18. #38
    Member Bouvers's Avatar
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    so this may be a very poor assesment but would then be fair to say that GENERALLY the more overlap you have the more hp you gain but you will lose torque... vice versa?

  19. #39
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    No, Overlap does not increase or decrease engine power.
    Reducing the overlap trades bottom-end torque for top-end horsepower.
    Increasing the overlap trades top-end power for bottom-end torque.
    Excessive overlap creates all kinds of problems, more than i care to discuss at this time, you can't adjust the overlap, hot-cams should have 112 or less LSA,
    while RV and towing cams can have a LSA over 114.

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