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general questions about a procharger

This is a discussion on general questions about a procharger within the Forced Induction forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by rajiv1998 Exactly. Im glad some1 agrees with me that 8psi is the max (others think im crazy, ...

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    ;) Packy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rajiv1998 View Post
    Exactly. Im glad some1 agrees with me that 8psi is the max (others think im crazy, not ppl on this site) but the general public. You will need to forge the block if you want to make anything above 8psi. Your probably looking into about 10k worth of just parts if you want to do this right.
    Why do you think I have a forged shortblock.?. 8 psi broke two of my ringlands. Whereas you can do it you are on borrowed time until you break something.

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    The red dragon bpopham22's Avatar
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    well thanks for the info guys i appreciate it. Im getting a 12 bolt in a couple of months WAY b4 i get the procharger. I also plan on buying a built transmission so im not too worried about that. How much and where can i get a forged block? And do they make special heads for forced induction? I know its gonna be expensive but dammit im 26 with a decent job and i dont have anything else to spend money so i can stockpile all the parts. And i want to throw more boost at the car but not if my problems will go up 500% then im sure 8 will do just fine. as far as the the fuel system goes are there any kits out there?

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    Senior Member rajiv1998's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpopham22 View Post
    well thanks for the info guys i appreciate it. Im getting a 12 bolt in a couple of months WAY b4 i get the procharger. I also plan on buying a built transmission so im not too worried about that. How much and where can i get a forged block? And do they make special heads for forced induction? I know its gonna be expensive but dammit im 26 with a decent job and i dont have anything else to spend money so i can stockpile all the parts. And i want to throw more boost at the car but not if my problems will go up 500% then im sure 8 will do just fine. as far as the the fuel system goes are there any kits out there?
    There are just too many variables to account for and if over looked can turn into disaster. Finding the right set of heads and cam is like finding a needle in a hay stack. There are just so many differant set ups. Have you decided on what kind of stall your getting if your an auto? Again I'm not trying to pick on you, but I would def get at least a good idea of the parts I'm buying before throwing 10k into my car.
    "Life is to short to drive a slow car"

    Gone but not forgoten: 1998 Pontiac Trans Am M6 "The Black Bandit"
    Bought- 11-18-05
    Sold- 10-14-08

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    well i want one close to the stock one. Im still very new to stalls and i dont think i fully understand them. I just dont wanna have to get my car up to 4000 rpms to cross a damn intersection. I want to maintain as much driveability as possible thats why i want a SC because this is what i was running into with my H/c/ questions. So are u guys telling me theres no way to beef up my car with a SC without changing my stall.

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    The red dragon bpopham22's Avatar
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    Ad like i said guys i dont race the car at the track. Its my baby but i want a lil more beef under the hood just in case a gt500 or a damn EVO pulls up. And yea dont underestimate the EVOS, a guy i know has one with JUST an upgraded turbo and hes running like 41 LBS of boost........he put down 741 on the dyno......ive seen the video of his dyno on youtube

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    Quote Originally Posted by bpopham22 View Post
    well thanks for the info guys i appreciate it. Im getting a 12 bolt in a couple of months WAY b4 i get the procharger. I also plan on buying a built transmission so im not too worried about that. How much and where can i get a forged block? And do they make special heads for forced induction? I know its gonna be expensive but dammit im 26 with a decent job and i dont have anything else to spend money so i can stockpile all the parts. And i want to throw more boost at the car but not if my problems will go up 500% then im sure 8 will do just fine. as far as the the fuel system goes are there any kits out there?
    Good deal on re-inforcing the driveline first. Some don't do that and pay later. I would start with Nelson since they are close for the shortblock if they are not any good then look at some other companies. These guys (http://www.aesracing.net/) make a killer 390ci for a good price!!! TSP makes them as well as other companies. Don't worry about the heads too much but a some 317 heads will work or just use your stock heads with upgraded springs and pushrods. Fuel systems you can go to either Lonnies Performance or Nasty N8 but they both will give the same type of product. If you are handy with stuff and have time the fuel system can be done by yourself if you just read up on some threads on LS1 tech. You really only need the injectors and a fuel pump to get started the other stuff is for when you wanna really start boosting it.

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    may i suggest going to yank.cc and going with their blower stalls. and go with flt transmission. but that is my personal opinion..i will be going that route pretty soon.

    for short blocks look for some well known players like Vengence racing, texas speed and erl ...just do your research and pick good parts..not just the cheapest

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    Senior Member rajiv1998's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpopham22 View Post
    well i want one close to the stock one. Im still very new to stalls and i dont think i fully understand them. I just dont wanna have to get my car up to 4000 rpms to cross a damn intersection. I want to maintain as much driveability as possible thats why i want a SC because this is what i was running into with my H/c/ questions. So are u guys telling me theres no way to beef up my car with a SC without changing my stall.
    No I'm not. Stall has nothing to do with the motor/fuel system. Im just saying that a lot of ppl with h/c, s/c or even just bolt ons have stalls. Its a great mod. The hp you dont gain on a stall can be compensated for the seconds off your et it will shave off.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rajiv1998 View Post
    No I'm not. Stall has nothing to do with the motor/fuel system. Im just saying that a lot of ppl with h/c, s/c or even just bolt ons have stalls. Its a great mod. The hp you dont gain on a stall can be compensated for the seconds off your et it will shave off.
    Agreed, but like i said im not racing the car so the .4 tenths of a second that i might save im not really worried about. Im more concerned with be able to get around someone like 45-100mph really quick. And no i dont want to run 4.56's either. I like my shift points where they are

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    You want a stall. Something at least 3200.

    Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

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    A good stall with close to stock driveability will be a PRO YANK 3400 EXTREME 4L60E LS1 converter. Good durability and close to but not exactly stock characteristics.
    Last edited by Packy; 07-27-2010 at 05:13 PM.

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    ok please educate me on the stalls real quick, doesnt 3200 mean 3200 rpms? Oh and nice droidx, ive got the EVO from sprint myself

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    Quote Originally Posted by bpopham22 View Post
    ok please educate me on the stalls real quick, doesnt 3200 mean 3200 rpms?
    yes 3200 = 3200rpms

    instead of trying to explain it..let the pros do it.

    here

    here

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    ok i read the articles. But since our cars are fuel injected wont they still take off if i let off the brake with a higher stall?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Packy View Post
    Why do you think I have a forged shortblock.?. 8 psi broke two of my ringlands. Whereas you can do it you are on borrowed time until you break something.
    Was it piston #8? That seems to be the one that always goes from what I've read.

    The thread I went through on the other site showed about 95% positive feedback with no problems when running 8# on a stock block. Just about anyone who tried to run more broke something. Of course, not every driver is the same. Even with 8# and a great tune, if you go WOT every other stop light then yes, your engine will take a shit sooner than later.

    OP - Trust me, and what others have said. 8# will satisfy you for a while, but you WILL want more sooner or later. Everyone does....and everyone said the same thing as you at the beginning..oh that will be enough.

    Not only will you need a built trans and rear end, you are also going to need some good suspension upgrades to be able to plant this new found power to the ground. This means aftermarket sub-frame connectors, lower control arms, lower control arm relocation brackets (get those with the rear end already welded on) and a Torque Arm.

    Plus tires

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    Senior Member rajiv1998's Avatar
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    Dude if your going to spend this much $ in the car, you might as well stroke the motor to a 383 and forge it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Was it piston #8? That seems to be the one that always goes from what I've read.

    The thread I went through on the other site showed about 95% positive feedback with no problems when running 8# on a stock block. Just about anyone who tried to run more broke something. Of course, not every driver is the same. Even with 8# and a great tune, if you go WOT every other stop light then yes, your engine will take a shit sooner than later.

    OP - Trust me, and what others have said. 8# will satisfy you for a while, but you WILL want more sooner or later. Everyone does....and everyone said the same thing as you at the beginning..oh that will be enough.

    Not only will you need a built trans and rear end, you are also going to need some good suspension upgrades to be able to plant this new found power to the ground. This means aftermarket sub-frame connectors, lower control arms, lower control arm relocation brackets (get those with the rear end already welded on) and a Torque Arm.

    Plus tires
    Yeah number 8 and I can't remember the other one.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bpopham22 View Post
    ok i read the articles. But since our cars are fuel injected wont they still take off if i let off the brake with a higher stall?
    With my 4000-4200 stall it moves when the car is idling.

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    The red dragon bpopham22's Avatar
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    well i already have UMI subframes,adj lower cont arms,dbl adj panhard bar,koni 4/4's,strano lower springs, ive still gotta order my new umi torque arm and sway bar but ive got plenty of time still. Just curious whats a stock stall? whats the rpms on it cuz im still confused as to why i need a higher one

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    Quote Originally Posted by bpopham22 View Post
    well i already have UMI subframes,adj lower cont arms,dbl adj panhard bar,koni 4/4's,strano lower springs, ive still gotta order my new umi torque arm and sway bar but ive got plenty of time still. Just curious whats a stock stall? whats the rpms on it cuz im still confused as to why i need a higher one
    To utilize the power, you will def need one. Your gonna say "I only race from a roll" but once you see how much fun it is to launch a procharged LS1, you will be hooked.

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