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Forged internals for FI

This is a discussion on Forged internals for FI within the Forced Induction forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by BrntWS6 Were in the same area, which shops are you talking to? I'm guessing FLP, Speed inc, ...

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrntWS6 View Post
    Were in the same area, which shops are you talking to? I'm guessing FLP, Speed inc, and Straightline? I've personally been to Straightline for a tune and I like the guys......their tuner seems to know his shit. Only thing I don't like is their shop is a little rag tag. I don't understand why some places are just a complete mess. Customers are more confident with you when your place is organized with the Epoxy flooring etc. Let me know who you choose, I'm probably going to pull the trigger in 2-3 months.
    I'm talking to Bob (old EPP now Brute Speed) and will probably go to Speed Inc. for the tune. I've been to Speed Inc. before and know a lot of people that have been there for their tune with FI. They seem pretty well versed.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    I'm talking to Bob (old EPP now Brute Speed) and will probably go to Speed Inc. for the tune. I've been to Speed Inc. before and know a lot of people that have been there for their tune with FI. They seem pretty well versed.
    I have heard they are really good with FI. I have never heard a bad thing about them.

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    All:

    Here is my list I plan on pulling the trigger on in the next few weeks. Let me know if I missed anything or if I need to look at something else in lieu of what I've listed.

    D-1SC Head Unit
    * Single FMI - Still need to figure out what I need to "cut" to make this fit. Packy - I assume you have the 3 Core Standard? http://www.procharger.com/intercoolers.shtml
    * 8 Rib Drive System
    * Red Race Bypass Valve - # Model: 3FASS-007 (Enclosed with steel flange) I've heard videos of the open valve and it sounds like a 747 until it closes lol.
    * Polished intake plenum
    * Standard gear set - I want to hear this thing!!

    Auto Meter Triple Pillar Pod, 2-1/16" from Thunder Racing - Part #43-12213
    * Auto Meter 4904 - Auto Meter Ultra-Lite II Analog Gauges - Boost Gauge
    * Auto Meter 6563 - Auto Meter Ultra-Lite Digital Series Gauges - Fuel Pressure Gauge
    * Auto Meter 4378 - Auto Meter Ultra-Lite Digital Gauges - A/F Gauge

    Fuel System
    * Racetronix Fuel Pump with Harness - RFPK-001
    * 60-lb Siemen Injectors

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    ;) Packy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    All:

    Here is my list I plan on pulling the trigger on in the next few weeks. Let me know if I missed anything or if I need to look at something else in lieu of what I've listed.

    D-1SC Head Unit
    * Single FMI - Still need to figure out what I need to "cut" to make this fit. Packy - I assume you have the 3 Core Standard? http://www.procharger.com/intercoolers.shtml
    * 8 Rib Drive System
    * Red Race Bypass Valve - # Model: 3FASS-007 (Enclosed with steel flange) I've heard videos of the open valve and it sounds like a 747 until it closes lol.
    * Polished intake plenum
    * Standard gear set - I want to hear this thing!!

    Auto Meter Triple Pillar Pod, 2-1/16" from Thunder Racing - Part #43-12213
    * Auto Meter 4904 - Auto Meter Ultra-Lite II Analog Gauges - Boost Gauge
    * Auto Meter 6563 - Auto Meter Ultra-Lite Digital Series Gauges - Fuel Pressure Gauge
    * Auto Meter 4378 - Auto Meter Ultra-Lite Digital Gauges - A/F Gauge

    Fuel System
    * Racetronix Fuel Pump with Harness - RFPK-001
    * 60-lb Siemen Injectors
    Sounds like you are all set. I bought an old EPP Front Mount set-up. so it has a CX Racing 31X12X4 intercooler that came with it. I am unsure of what you need to cut on a Camaro but if you do a search on LS1tech about it I am sure you will find out what you need to cut. I just switched my TA to a Formula bumper cover for FMIC.

    Today's progress.






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    Junior Member 396375's Avatar
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    No Meth?

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    Quote Originally Posted by 396375 View Post
    No Meth?
    If I were him I would try without meth since he is running an FMIC and his location. Later on if he is need of more then he can always add it. That is just one more piece to the puzzle that he would have to add.
    Last edited by Packy; 12-28-2010 at 04:17 AM.

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    Wow,looks like the air filter sits way low on the driver side

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    Quote Originally Posted by bpopham22 View Post
    Wow,looks like the air filter sits way low on the driver side
    It is not fully adjusted yet.

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    I've considered Meth, but I think right now I am going to be content with what I have and feel that in the area I am in, like mentioned, I should be fine for the time being. Plus I am pretty confident in the tuner I am going with.

    Thanks for the pics Packy. That thing looks sick.

    Do you have a special FMIC support or are you just using what the kit came with?

    Waiting on feedback on what needs to be modified on my car to make the FMIC fit. I also sent the list over for pricing. Woohoo!

    Now I just need to find where the money is coming from

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    Vendors response...

    "The charge side would all need to be custom fabricated per car. The car would require the bumper support to be removed for the FMIC and brackets welded on. There will be min. trimming or moving to get things routed for the charge tubing.

    Racetronix you will need to order directly since we are not a dealer. I would also recommend a boost-a-pump combined to be certain we do not run on edge for fueling. The car at 8-10 psi should be in the 550- 600 rwhp area

    I can do the estimate complete as an out the door price and we can go from there. This would be installation of the kit, custom fabrication of charge side, fuel system and tuning. The charge pipes can be painted or powder coated if done in steel or done in alum. or stainless and left natural or polished. do you have a preference?

    The other route we could quote is you doing everything yourself besides fabrication on charge side and tuning?"

    I've read this is a 8-10 hr installation job. I don't know how to weld, but my dad does (no expert by any means). I guess I need to see what their price is and go from there. I'm pretty confident I can do this myself though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    I've considered Meth, but I think right now I am going to be content with what I have and feel that in the area I am in, like mentioned, I should be fine for the time being. Plus I am pretty confident in the tuner I am going with.

    Thanks for the pics Packy. That thing looks sick.

    Do you have a special FMIC support or are you just using what the kit came with?

    Waiting on feedback on what needs to be modified on my car to make the FMIC fit. I also sent the list over for pricing. Woohoo!

    Now I just need to find where the money is coming from
    The EPP kit had came with some custom brackets already. I have seen some people using homemade and another style that I will pm you if I can find it.

    Putting the kit on is a breeze with the instructions they give you. It took me like two days but I worked for like 5 hours on one day with a friend and 4hours on the other day by myself. I am no engineer though. J/K!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Packy View Post
    The EPP kit had came with some custom brackets already. I have seen some people using homemade and another style that I will pm you if I can find it.

    Putting the kit on is a breeze with the instructions they give you. It took me like two days but I worked for like 5 hours on one day with a friend and 4hours on the other day by myself. I am no engineer though. J/K!
    Speed Inc is saying custom fabrication is going to be need to be done on the charge side (previous post), did you need to do that?

    Also - I am thinking just staying with the natural finish look for the piping. I didn't know they came in aluminum or stainless Decisions decisions!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Speed Inc is saying custom fabrication is going to be need to be done on the charge side (previous post), did you need to do that?

    Also - I am thinking just staying with the natural finish look for the piping. I didn't know they came in aluminum or stainless Decisions decisions!!
    Yeah I am in the process of fabricating my charge side so the inlet filter can tuck in where it needs to. I would go with the Aluminium if you can. I had bought an un-used kit EPP kit and it had rust forming in some of the pipes that I had to bead blast away and treat before I could even assemble it on my car. Aluminum is lighter also and doesn't rust. The steel pipes I have are heavy.

    As far as the link i was talking about above. I cannot find it. It was on LS1Tech but was removed for being a non-sponsor link. It was an FMIC with mounting brackets for a 98-02 Camaro/Trans Am. I have been googling it for the last few minutes but cannot find it. I even searched computers iinternet history but cannot find it there either.

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    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    I will never own a forced induction vehicle with any engine/boost level that runs pump gas without [Alkycontrol] methanol.

    Several years ago I had a car that had a g5x1 cam and made 385rwhp cam-only. He added a P1sc kit (twin front IC's) and we made 446rwhp @ 5psi but the car was on the edge of knocking. It was low; I was surprised. We turned on the methanol system and retuned (same dyno, 10 minutes later) and the car ended up at 495 RWHP and nowhere NEAR knocking. I was shocked. The inlet temps were significantly cooler with the methanol.

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    Thanks again Packy. I planned on going with either the Aluminum or SS. The mild steel piping that the kit comes with is painted or powdercoated and he sent me pictures. I didn't like it and prefer the natural finish.

    As far as the FMIC, it comes with mounting brackets that get welded on. I just need to remove the front bumper support.

    Frost - I had intended on eventually going with a Meth kit. I don't think it will be in the budget this year though. Maybe. I'll be able to swing it next spring.
    Last edited by 35th-ANV-SS; 12-28-2010 at 10:41 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Frost View Post
    I will never own a forced induction vehicle with any engine/boost level that runs pump gas without [Alkycontrol] methanol.

    Several years ago I had a car that had a g5x1 cam and made 385rwhp cam-only. He added a P1sc kit (twin front IC's) and we made 446rwhp @ 5psi but the car was on the edge of knocking. It was low; I was surprised. We turned on the methanol system and retuned (same dyno, 10 minutes later) and the car ended up at 495 RWHP and nowhere NEAR knocking. I was shocked. The inlet temps were significantly cooler with the methanol.

    Just curious as I do not know anything about F.I. -- is there a safety switch or warning light on the methanol injection system should it run dry or malfunction?

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    From their site...

    Third
    The low level issue. If you have an injection system installed.. it must have a functioning low level warning device. If you leave chance for guessing, you will at some point or other guess wrong. Whether it’s a light behind the dash, on top of the dash, a factory “Low Warning” etc.. The location must be clear and visible.

    The only exception to this rule is on professional race applications that require foam put into the fuel cell to keep sloshing minimized. These applications it is common for fuel, water, oil, and other liquids be inspected after every run.

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    I just looked at their site after you posted that -- good information. Thanks, Jon!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    All:

    Here is my list I plan on pulling the trigger on in the next few weeks. Let me know if I missed anything or if I need to look at something else in lieu of what I've listed.

    D-1SC Head Unit
    * Single FMI - Still need to figure out what I need to "cut" to make this fit. Packy - I assume you have the 3 Core Standard? http://www.procharger.com/intercoolers.shtml
    * 8 Rib Drive System
    * Red Race Bypass Valve - # Model: 3FASS-007 (Enclosed with steel flange) I've heard videos of the open valve and it sounds like a 747 until it closes lol.
    * Polished intake plenum
    * Standard gear set - I want to hear this thing!!

    Auto Meter Triple Pillar Pod, 2-1/16" from Thunder Racing - Part #43-12213
    * Auto Meter 4904 - Auto Meter Ultra-Lite II Analog Gauges - Boost Gauge
    * Auto Meter 6563 - Auto Meter Ultra-Lite Digital Series Gauges - Fuel Pressure Gauge
    * Auto Meter 4378 - Auto Meter Ultra-Lite Digital Gauges - A/F Gauge

    Fuel System
    * Racetronix Fuel Pump with Harness - RFPK-001
    * 60-lb Siemen Injectors
    Nice, the time has finally come! You look way more prepared than I was so I'm sure this will all go well. I noticed you're running 555Rs - I would humbly suggest you plan for a rear tire upgrade as part of your budget if possible. At these power levels I think some M/Ts or Nitto NT05Rs are pretty much a necessity. I had 555s on when my car went in and the shift points had to be set a little conservative because they were breaking loose on the dyno, and on the street the car was absolutely dangerous - full throttle wasn't even a possibility. Yours should be better, but if you've invested that much into the powertrain you might as well hook it all up. Also, just double-checking you're getting a wideband O2 gauge.

    I'm working the opposite of you and will probably be getting a stall and built tranny put in this spring...mind if I hijack and get your thoughts on what stall and trans combo is good considering our setups are pretty similar? I was thinking about 3600-3800 on the stall, but haven't settled on a brand for it or the transmission yet.

    Best of luck, it's gonna be a long winter waiting for the weather to break!
    Nick

    2002 Trans Am WS6 - 520rwhp
    D1SC @ 10lbs | FLT Level V - SS3600 - ARH 1 3/4" LTs w/ Catted Y-pipe - Corsa - Koni 4/3's - UMI Adj. LCAs and Brackets - UMI 3 Pt. SFC's - UMI PHB - UMI STB - TTM's (17X9, 17X10.5) - M/T ET Streets

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    I am getting a wideband O2 gauge.

    As far as your stall size/tranny selection, I am going to leave that one for the auto guys. I would guess it really depends on your style of driving. Mostly street? Drag? The A4 cars trannies aren't really robust. Most people upgrade the clutch packs, sunshell, sprag, etc. The two most popular transmission places I know of are Performabuilt (site sponsor) and RPM (they built my T56). I heard Tick does good work also.

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