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F-1R Procharger on a 427LSX

This is a discussion on F-1R Procharger on a 427LSX within the Forced Induction forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by NeeD4SpeeD i can still drive the car around town and to meets and the track without having ...

  1. #21
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeeD4SpeeD View Post
    i can still drive the car around town and to meets and the track without having to worry about dumb issues such as a massive cam and stalling out and surging if i had an N/A/ build.
    But 9's N/A is sexy....

    A little more aggressive with a few things on mine...and it could possibly run upper 9's. On the off-the-shelf cam in there (TSP Giant...early version).
    Mine is 95% street duty.

    I know what you are saying though.
    You want it to be tame but mean.
    Honestly, the tune is the biggest role in the surging. Mine has NEVER stalled...and it is likely good for 10.5 at 130 with a near zero DA. Pretty mild N/A build...just set-up well.

  2. #22
    Senior Member NeeD4SpeeD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frost View Post
    I have a TRUCK (Regency short bed) with a 427 LSX, TFS heads, single plane intake, etc, that is getting an F2 in the shop right now. It made 500rwhp without the blower and it's low compression!

    The F1 will be on it's face by 1Krwhp, and you don't need all of that fancy motor to get you there. Your bottom end should be good to about 1,800.
    Well the bottom end on the LSX is nearly bulletproof so that im not too concerned with... Im only looking to make 800-900RWHP... Should be enough to bring me into the 9s plus i dont want it to just be a trailor queen or only be able to take it on short drives...

    Don't know much about the F2 but from what i just looked up its a much bigger size, does support much more HP then the F1A too.

    I'm getting the bells and whistles for the block(bolt ons) so i have a well rounded motor that can take the abuse and not break.. Figure the inital cost of good parts done right is better then the aftermath of damage from cutting corners.

  3. #23
    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    Size and cost are the difference, but that motor is WAYYY $$$$ overkill for an F1. You have to cut up the front end and do something with the radiator for either blower. If you all you want is an F1 (or F1 HP), a good ole 4-bolt LS2 400" stroked long-block will cost about half of that LSX setup and allow you to push an F1 to within just a few RPMs of it's limit.

  4. #24
    Senior Member NeeD4SpeeD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    But 9's N/A is sexy....

    A little more aggressive with a few things on mine...and it could possibly run upper 9's. On the off-the-shelf cam in there (TSP Giant...early version).
    Mine is 95% street duty.

    I know what you are saying though.
    You want it to be tame but mean.
    Honestly, the tune is the biggest role in the surging. Mine has NEVER stalled...and it is likely good for 10.5 at 130 with a near zero DA. Pretty mild N/A build...just set-up well.
    See thats the thing...TUNE!!! I'm not sure if i trust my tuner 100% to go all N/A... N/A is hella bragging rights and is just awesome!

    No other reputible tuner in the NY/NJ area that i would trust with my car.

    I dont mine the car making a racket or being aggressively tuned... I do have a 238/242 .600/.610 111.5LSA and never stalled or had surging but i want the F/I to be able to mod the HP without buying different parts. Easier to change a belt then redo my setup.

  5. #25
    Senior Member NeeD4SpeeD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frost View Post
    Size and cost are the difference, but that motor is WAYYY $$$$ overkill for an F1. You have to cut up the front end and do something with the radiator for either blower. If you all you want is an F1 (or F1 HP), a good ole 4-bolt LS2 400" stroked long-block will cost about half of that LSX setup and allow you to push an F1 to within just a few RPMs of it's limit.
    Well im not dead set on the F1, just thought it would be the best performer for a blower and not sound like a have an unexploded missle flying under my hood...

    I'll go with any blower that helps me make the power im looking for as long as it reliable and is prices well.

    Reason why i want the LSX is i like having the piece of mind that im sitting behind a motor i can beat into the ground and not worry about (too much) nice to have that piece of mind..

  6. #26
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frost View Post
    Size and cost are the difference, but that motor is WAYYY $$$$ overkill for an F1. You have to cut up the front end and do something with the radiator for either blower. If you all you want is an F1 (or F1 HP), a good ole 4-bolt LS2 400" stroked long-block will cost about half of that LSX setup and allow you to push an F1 to within just a few RPMs of it's limit.
    Pretty much what I was 'sorta' saying.
    Honestly....that motor in a car built right will see 9's without any blower.


    I think what Need4Speed is going for IS overkill. Wants it to be high powered but without the use of a even a medium sized cam. Drive fairly stock (for what will be done) but still have a shit ton behind it.
    I think he is looking to use the 'pick 2 of 3' method and wants to pick reliable and fast.

  7. #27
    Senior Member NeeD4SpeeD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    Pretty much what I was 'sorta' saying.
    Honestly....that motor in a car built right will see 9's without any blower.


    I think what Need4Speed is going for IS overkill. Wants it to be high powered but without the use of a even a medium sized cam. Drive fairly stock (for what will be done) but still have a shit ton behind it.
    I think he is looking to use the 'pick 2 of 3' method and wants to pick reliable and fast.
    GET OUT OF MY BRAIN! lol

    Yes kinda what i was going for... I like to be overpowered in the respect of reliability and performance... I wanted the car to be what old school muscle used to be, raw, untamed power in every corner of the motor, just disgusting overkill but like i said my challenge is to keep it as streetable as possible and still have all the practicalities of it (A/C, etc)

  8. #28
    Senior Member NeeD4SpeeD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    I think he is looking to use the 'pick 2 of 3' method and wants to pick reliable and fast.
    Couldn't have said it better myself

    Figured some good enginuity should be able to make both of those attainable....

  9. #29
    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    The A/C with the F1 or F2 is most likely gonna take a stand up aftermarket radiator and some relocation.

  10. #30
    Senior Member NeeD4SpeeD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frost View Post
    The A/C with the F1 or F2 is most likely gonna take a stand up aftermarket radiator and some relocation.
    I wish i could upload the blueprints of the engine bay and build.. .We figured things are subject to change but the a/c being in play along with an F1 was taken into account and the engine builder and I put together a nice sketch of the engine bay and motor with mods to make everything fit....

    Im sure things will need to be adjusted and changed on drop in day but atleast we have some sort of a foundation.

    Wish you guys were on the east coast with me and could come to the shop once we start the project.

  11. #31
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    It seems like it's already been stated by Mr. Luos, but for what it's worth in my humble opinion the 427 is absolutely not necessary for your power goals. It sounds like you want the motor for it's durability and not necessarilly for the power, so it seems like a forged LS2 along with an F1A is all you need to reliably hit that power.

    The F1A will pretty much sit exactly like a D1 does, so why go through the expense and extra modification when it's not necessary? A fresh, forged small block with the F1A and FMIC setup would be all you need and you can spend the difference on upgrading your drivetrain and suspension instead to hit the 9's.

    Just my perspective...the 427 would definitely be awesome, but I doubt it's necessary based on your specs above. Would it be sweet? Yes. Is it a must? I don't think so. Either way, best of luck!
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    Member GORILLAVETTE's Avatar
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    There is a guy on another forum that put a F2R in a C6 with an LSX 427. Running fine with no fitment issues.

  13. #33
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GORILLAVETTE View Post
    There is a guy on another forum that put a F2R in a C6 with an LSX 427. Running fine with no fitment issues.
    A C6 and an F-Body are SO massively different....there isn't even a comparison.

  14. #34
    Senior Member NeeD4SpeeD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by See Me In My GTP View Post
    It seems like it's already been stated by Mr. Luos, but for what it's worth in my humble opinion the 427 is absolutely not necessary for your power goals. It sounds like you want the motor for it's durability and not necessarilly for the power, so it seems like a forged LS2 along with an F1A is all you need to reliably hit that power.

    The F1A will pretty much sit exactly like a D1 does, so why go through the expense and extra modification when it's not necessary? A fresh, forged small block with the F1A and FMIC setup would be all you need and you can spend the difference on upgrading your drivetrain and suspension instead to hit the 9's.

    Just my perspective...the 427 would definitely be awesome, but I doubt it's necessary based on your specs above. Would it be sweet? Yes. Is it a must? I don't think so. Either way, best of luck!
    I was considering the LS2 forged with an F1A... That 427 LSX is just sexxi tho.... I agree LS2 is much more economical, gives good reliability and i can use the left over money for other part upgrades....

    I still have a few weeks before i need to make up my mind that's why im getting all the info i can before hand...

    Still the LSX is edged out in front from the aspect of i can throw anything i want at it plus if i decide to feed it more power lets say 900+ atleast i know she'll be able to handle it...

  15. #35
    Senior Member NeeD4SpeeD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    A C6 and an F-Body are SO massively different....there isn't even a comparison.
    Agreed.... Some parts may be similar but engine bay and placement of select parts are totally different.

    Wish i wouldnt have fitment issues but im already accounting for it and am going to customize certain things to make sure i dont run into a problem

  16. #36
    Member GORILLAVETTE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    A C6 and an F-Body are SO massively different....there isn't even a comparison.

    He had an f-body with twin turbos up front so I would expect a single huffer is certainly possible. Hell.....I can not believe there is less room in an F-body than a C6!

  17. #37
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GORILLAVETTE View Post
    He had an f-body with twin turbos up front so I would expect a single huffer is certainly possible. Hell.....I can not believe there is less room in an F-body than a C6!
    It depends on the set-up.
    The APS kit literally moves nothing on the F-Body, but most other kits move stuff around.

    It is all in location. Not saying the F2 wouldn't fit...but it would require some changes and fab work.

  18. #38
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    im sorry but for 99% of people a gen IV block will take almost anything you can throw at it...lSx family aluminum blocks can handle 900+ easy...the only advantage of the lsx in my mind to warrant the price difference is 1.) the capability to go huge Ci ..455+ 2.) 6 bolt head pattern

    why run the extra weight up front if you dont have too ?

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    F-4. (the finger of god) oooooooh yeeaaaahhhh.

  20. #40
    Senior Member NeeD4SpeeD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    im sorry but for 99% of people a gen IV block will take almost anything you can throw at it...lSx family aluminum blocks can handle 900+ easy...the only advantage of the lsx in my mind to warrant the price difference is 1.) the capability to go huge Ci ..455+ 2.) 6 bolt head pattern

    why run the extra weight up front if you dont have too ?
    Good point... Ok so let's say i decide to go with a Gen IV block, what size do you suggest?

    I wanna take all things into consideration.....

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