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9Sec 1/4mile Possible with Full Bolt ons and SC or TC??

This is a discussion on 9Sec 1/4mile Possible with Full Bolt ons and SC or TC?? within the Forced Induction forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by NeeD4SpeeD Yea i have a 10 bolt now i just dont kno how to type lol.....I was ...

  1. #21
    Member cailey37's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeeD4SpeeD View Post
    Yea i have a 10 bolt now i just dont kno how to type lol.....I was thinking of stroking the motor to 396 later on down the line perhapse before the S/C thats why im trying to get some info now...Im pretty positive that i can claim close to 600RWHP with my stock cubes with the S/C running around 7-8psi well atleast ill try for 600rwhp but i kno i will probably get less then ill stroke the bitch or stroke it first which ever i see is the best option.....But for now im going to max out N/A then see where it leaves me....
    Heck....anything is possible.....with the right setup and deep pockets of money.......just when you get up to that level of performance dont expect to be handing that motor down to your kids.....lol.......I keep telling people that you can get as much horsepower at you want.....you just have to accept the outcome.....decreased reliability....longevity.....

    Take your time....build it right.....take a look at that new LSX block GM Performance is putting out.......you can get 454 cubic inches out of it no problem!!!! Figures they would come out with that after I put all this money in the one I have now....guess when I finish with this motor I'll build one of those out and try it......

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeeD4SpeeD View Post
    Fully upgraded valve terrain
    ...................................

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeeD4SpeeD View Post
    4.10 rear stock 9bolt
    Dude your missing a bolt might wanna check for leaks.

  4. #24
    no more 4th gen secondgearscratch's Avatar
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    my opinion is that you should stay naturally aspirated. with a nicely matched heads and cams combo plus the full bolt ons and a damn good tune you can get in the 10s. if you built an iron block 408 with a decently sized cam and full bolt ons (yes theres more to it as you know but..) you will be in the 10s. with an n/a setup you will have a nice level of durability and peace of mind and you will be hardpressed to find alot running 10s on the streets. as for the track.....just spray it. the track should be the last thing to worry about because that is where you drive the least (im assuming).
    good luck, and post pics...
    oh great intentions, ive got the best of interventions...

    Missouri and Central IL members come in!!!!!
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f26/missouri-muscle-central-il-come-48861/

  5. #25
    Twin Turbo Terror anarchy99's Avatar
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    If getting into the 9's was easy and cheap, everyone would be doing it. I think once you start buying parts and seeing what it costs to do it, you'll have a better idea. Not many people are doing it on M6's either. If your planning on keeping your T56, your going to have to go to a 9 inch rear. As far as the keeping it reliable part, that can be done also, but you better have super deep pockets, etc. A twin setup like your talking about will cost you around 6 grand, plus 2,400ish for rearend, 1,600 ish for upgraded t-56, 1,000 for a single disc clutch, 2,000 for a twin disc if that's your call, 1,400 for a fuel system, new engine... mild with heads, 1,500ish, wild with heads, way more. drag radials, 250, safety equipment, 1,500, and this is just off the top of my head and doesn't include your cars down time if it's your daily driver, tuning costs and dyno time at around 150 an hour, etc. FI gets expensive in a hurry. Who knows, maybe cash isn't a big deal.

  6. #26
    Make real real sure Johns00Z28's Avatar
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    Well I just looked at one of those horsepower to weight calculators and w/ 600rwhp and a race weight of 3700lbs it says you can run a 10.14. I'm sure it's a best case senario also, not sure you'd be able to hit it w/ the manual like others have stated. I'm pretty sure though that you could surpass 600rwhp if you already have 400+rwhp. I would think with either you could make enough to run 9's but I'm not sure how streetable it would be though.

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    well to give you an idea I'm around 3300# w/600+ rwhp through a t56 and my best time is 10.41 @ 130 w/1.44 60', I also went 10.40 @ 135 w/1.50 60'. 9s are my goal also but its going to take practice.

    I'm using an F1 blower which is much easier to launch on a stick car then turbos are, unless you have some kind of launch control (2 step) to build boost off the line.

  8. #28
    Awaiting Activation Liquifire's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alwaysinboost View Post
    well to give you an idea I'm around 3300# w/600+ rwhp through a t56 and my best time is 10.41 @ 130 w/1.44 60', I also went 10.40 @ 135 w/1.50 60'. 9s are my goal also but its going to take practice.

    I'm using an F1 blower which is much easier to launch on a stick car then turbos are, unless you have some kind of launch control (2 step) to build boost off the line.
    Is this in the Z06? If it is, what type of rear end are you running?

  9. #29
    Senior Member NeeD4SpeeD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LS1_TA_2002 View Post
    ...................................
    Very funny LOL leave my lack of typing skills alone!!!

  10. #30
    Senior Member NeeD4SpeeD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LS1_TA_2002 View Post
    Dude your missing a bolt might wanna check for leaks.
    LOLOL!! Funny.... I know i was half asleep that morning...or hung over....

  11. #31
    Senior Member NeeD4SpeeD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by secondgearscratch View Post
    my opinion is that you should stay naturally aspirated. with a nicely matched heads and cams combo plus the full bolt ons and a damn good tune you can get in the 10s. if you built an iron block 408 with a decently sized cam and full bolt ons (yes theres more to it as you know but..) you will be in the 10s. with an n/a setup you will have a nice level of durability and peace of mind and you will be hardpressed to find alot running 10s on the streets. as for the track.....just spray it. the track should be the last thing to worry about because that is where you drive the least (im assuming).
    good luck, and post pics...
    Hey if i could pull nice 10s with a NA car then hell i wouldnt mind!!! I just gotta keep trying and building towards it... Thats why im trying to find a perfect set of heads for the cam i have...So alittle more researching and ill be ready to purchase heads..

  12. #32
    Senior Member NeeD4SpeeD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by anarchy99 View Post
    If getting into the 9's was easy and cheap, everyone would be doing it. I think once you start buying parts and seeing what it costs to do it, you'll have a better idea. Not many people are doing it on M6's either. If your planning on keeping your T56, your going to have to go to a 9 inch rear. As far as the keeping it reliable part, that can be done also, but you better have super deep pockets, etc. A twin setup like your talking about will cost you around 6 grand, plus 2,400ish for rearend, 1,600 ish for upgraded t-56, 1,000 for a single disc clutch, 2,000 for a twin disc if that's your call, 1,400 for a fuel system, new engine... mild with heads, 1,500ish, wild with heads, way more. drag radials, 250, safety equipment, 1,500, and this is just off the top of my head and doesn't include your cars down time if it's your daily driver, tuning costs and dyno time at around 150 an hour, etc. FI gets expensive in a hurry. Who knows, maybe cash isn't a big deal.

    Cash is a big deal but not too big ya kno......I see its a pain in the ass for a FI setup and alot of work so mayb ill take the upgrade steps towards the FI setup then if i decide to go that route ill be halfway there....i'll also be broke too lol

  13. #33
    Senior Member NeeD4SpeeD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johns00Z28 View Post
    Well I just looked at one of those horsepower to weight calculators and w/ 600rwhp and a race weight of 3700lbs it says you can run a 10.14. I'm sure it's a best case senario also, not sure you'd be able to hit it w/ the manual like others have stated. I'm pretty sure though that you could surpass 600rwhp if you already have 400+rwhp. I would think with either you could make enough to run 9's but I'm not sure how streetable it would be though.
    Im alittle lighter then 3700, im not going to cry if i dont hit 9s but mid 10s will keep me happy cuz there will be few street cars that will be able to keep up with me and thats my main concern...It's my project to try and keep the car streetabe while attempting to hit 9s...As seeing from everyone that it will be very expensive and extremely hard to do, ill settle for 10s and keeping my DD ability will be a good combo!!

  14. #34
    Member Rickys S/C Z28's Avatar
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    if you want to ho 9s you got a lot of work ahead. but you should get 10 KINDA ez with FI i have a P1SC and im shooting for the 10s also when i get there ill let you know what i did!! hahhaha

  15. #35
    Senior Member NeeD4SpeeD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rickys S/C Z28 View Post
    if you want to ho 9s you got a lot of work ahead. but you should get 10 KINDA ez with FI i have a P1SC and im shooting for the 10s also when i get there ill let you know what i did!! hahhaha
    LOL yea keep me posted on how that goes 4 you...As 4 me i know it will be along road to get into the 9s but i'll take 10s 4 now

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