6.0 iron block???

[OreoLt1]

I can get my hands on a used 6.0 iron bare block w/mains for under $500(block seems to be in good shape but I will still have it machined and possibly slighty bored). I wanted to see what some of you other FI guys thought about using this block to build up for 12-15 psi on an STS kit before purchasing it???

I have heard many cons on the 6.0 iron because of its weight but if it's structural integrity is more than an alum. block I'd rather be safe than sorry. Thanks for you input.

[Firebirdjones]

The difference in weight between iron and aluminum blocks it only 60 lbs. according to all of the books I have read on the subject. In my opinion it's not even worth worrying about unless you are going NHRA class racing.
They have the benefit of being able to overbore them as well. Larry.

[BlwnCamaro]

I can get my hands on a used 6.0 iron bare block w/mains for under $500(block seems to be in good shape but I will still have it machined and possibly slighty bored). I wanted to see what some of you other FI guys thought about using this block to build up for 12-15 psi on an STS kit before purchasing it???

I have heard many cons on the 6.0 iron because of its weight but if it's structural integrity is more than an alum. block I'd rather be safe than sorry. Thanks for you input.

Its actually a 75 pound weight difference with the cast iron block. The cast block is stronger and a lot of people like them right out of the box cause with the larger 73cc heads they yield a compression ratio of 9.4/1 so are more boost friendly without mods. This motor is the bread and butter of a lot of hardcore racers right now that are boosting lsx style blocks. You could run fairly high boost on a stock shortblock as there are guys seeing power levels approaching the 800 hp range on the stock 6.0 shortblock reliably. If you have it appart you can add arp studs and bolts to the stock bottom end and cometic mls head gaskets to help out handling boost. Of course you could spend the money to add forged components but if tuned and set up properly you could see 12-15 psi on a stock short block with the lower compression heads with the right tune no problem. On that much boost with the right combination you could easily see over 650 horsepower.
I currently have a lq9 6.0 that I salvaged from a wrecked o5 denali. This motor is the best of the 6.0's having aluminum heads with ls6 style ports and factory underrated at 345 horse stock in denali or escalade trim. This motor only has 22 k on it and im setting it up for one of my project vehicles. I almost put it in my 98 camaro but am camming out and going full bolt on with my ls1 first. Good luck man hope that helps you! Plus yea you could probably find a good deal on a shortblock, but it would be nice to have a longblock with the heads and everything, you can boost on that right out of the box, just add a nice blower cam and supporting double springs, hardened pushrods, high volume oil pump, some bigger injectors and a good fuel pump, maybe some methanol injection if you fancy and a good tune and call it a day.

[Firebirdjones]

Ye I based the 60 lbs. difference off of all the books,,,as a matter of fact it was just written in one of the latest GM High Tech mags as well.
I have been contemplating building a naturally asperated stroker based off of the cast iron block,,,not interested in power adders.
I think the biggest reason most people go with it is,,,cost more than anything. Everybody wants to save a penny. The aluminum blocks have proven their durability as well,,,but they are expensive and you can't simply overbore it like a cast iron block. So if you score a cylinder for what ever reason,,,it's a rather expensive repair on an aluminum block,,doesn't make it look to enticing. It's nice to have something you can simply bore 2-3 times over for future rebuilds without worrying about sleeving, or finding another block to start with,,,thats a big turn off for me.

You can buy a brand new 6.0 cast iron block for $600 bare. Rotating assemblies are pretty inexpensive nowadays and there are tons of manufactures to choose from too. No sense in using stock heads when CNC ported heads are available everywhere, just choose your flavor.
Since building an engine from scratch it would make more sense to go with the new L92 heads GM just came out with,,they are cheap cheap cheap and flow 330 cfm right out of the box. They drop right onto a 6.0 with the 4 inch bore. With the right camshaft it's a piece of cake to make 600 hp naturally asperated and still be plenty streetable.
There are already tons of proven combos like this running around, and it's not too expensive.

[BlwnCamaro]

Ye I based the 60 lbs. difference off of all the books,,,as a matter of fact it was just written in one of the latest GM High Tech mags as well.
I have been contemplating building a naturally asperated stroker based off of the cast iron block,,,not interested in power adders.
I think the biggest reason most people go with it is,,,cost more than anything. Everybody wants to save a penny. The aluminum blocks have proven their durability as well,,,but they are expensive and you can't simply overbore it like a cast iron block. So if you score a cylinder for what ever reason,,,it's a rather expensive repair on an aluminum block,,doesn't make it look to enticing. It's nice to have something you can simply bore 2-3 times over for future rebuilds without worrying about sleeving, or finding another block to start with,,,thats a big turn off for me.

You can buy a brand new 6.0 cast iron block for $600 bare. Rotating assemblies are pretty inexpensive nowadays and there are tons of manufactures to choose from too. No sense in using stock heads when CNC ported heads are available everywhere, just choose your flavor.
Since building an engine from scratch it would make more sense to go with the new L92 heads GM just came out with,,they are cheap cheap cheap and flow 330 cfm right out of the box. They drop right onto a 6.0 with the 4 inch bore. With the right camshaft it's a piece of cake to make 600 hp naturally asperated and still be plenty streetable.
There are already tons of proven combos like this running around, and it's not too expensive.

Oh thats cool everything i've read said 75 pounds.
Yea i'v been drooling over those l92 heads and the l76 intake with matching 42# injectors and 90 mm throttle body since before it came out. I actually am probably gonna go na on my 6.0 with that setup. I already have my 6.0 complete and am on a very limited budget but will probably sell my stock heads if goin na, but use them if boosted. Everything that i've read states that the cast block is stronger for applications over 600 hp. Also the ls6 style blocks are stronger than the ls1 and also the 99-up ls1 is stronger than the 97-98 blocks due to improved crankcase venting windows. I heard they are actually making an l92 with smaller valves to work with stock bore ls1's! That would be sweet. Peace

Jesse

[Firebirdjones]

Ya thats cool, I am kinda waiting to see if or when GM comes out with the L-92's to fit the smaller bores and what the flow numbers will be.
I have some plans for mine, but there are so many new parts coming out it seems everyday almost, I may wait patiently for a while and see what else pops up. I have a feeling when the L-92's come out for the smaller bore there will be a ton of used LS-6 heads pop up forsale,,,lol, and they will have to be cheap to even tempt someone to buy them, when you can get brand new L-92's for $800 a pair. Larry.

[LS2Tuner]

Yeah for "BIG" motors now that the LSX block is finally available thats the way I would go. For the cost and being a full pledged race block you can't beat it. For the simple fact that you can SAFELY run a 4.25" bore (the same bore as a 454) you can easily build a 480 ci + motor.
And yes Larry I also am currently doing the some L92 heads also. I got them bare though cause I'd NEVER use the stock springs,retainers,nor valves. Out of the box they out flow the AFR's and are only $250ea bare.

[Chevythunder17]

There is nothing wrong with the stock valves. SLP did testing with various aftermarket valves and found there to be no gain or even a small (1-2 CFM) loss of flow. The biggest thing to remember is that the L92 heads have ~70cc chambers. You'll want to mill them .030" to bump up your CR up to at least 11 to 1 if you plan on sticking normally aspirated. Cam selection with these heads is crucial, and they don't act the same way as regular LS1/LS6 heads due to the huge 2.16" intake valve.

As for the block the 6.0L iron block is good, but there is the LS2 block and while you can't bore it any more than an LS1 it's got lighter weight and a better design than the iron block. 75 lbs is alot of weight to add to of the front of the car, and if you don't plan on going with boost there really isn't a need for the iron block.

[hotrod44_4u]

Wtb Fresh Lower Forged Ci ? What Do U Have Left 370? Call 270-678-3320 Serious

[Firebirdjones]

There is nothing wrong with the stock valves. SLP did testing with various aftermarket valves and found there to be no gain or even a small (1-2 CFM) loss of flow. The biggest thing to remember is that the L92 heads have ~70cc chambers. You'll want to mill them .030" to bump up your CR up to at least 11 to 1 if you plan on sticking normally aspirated. Cam selection with these heads is crucial, and they don't act the same way as regular LS1/LS6 heads due to the huge 2.16" intake valve.

As for the block the 6.0L iron block is good, but there is the LS2 block and while you can't bore it any more than an LS1 it's got lighter weight and a better design than the iron block. 75 lbs is alot of weight to add to of the front of the car, and if you don't plan on going with boost there really isn't a need for the iron block.

Ya but I prefer the Iron block over the aluminum for the simple reason they are easy to bore,,,,and using it the first time at standard bore would leave another refresh on the table when the time comes.

Resleaving an aluminum block turns me off. Plus you can't beat the price on the iron blocks. With a .030 rebore still left in it I'll get my moneys worth out of it for sure.

As far as weight,,,,for a street car it will be fine for me. Not worried about 60-80 lbs. Save that nit picking for NHRA class racing where every pound counts.