370 CI - Twin Turbo - 4L80E - MWC 9" - Holley Dominator

[Hi-Po]

Lets see if we can light a fire in this section. This is my build, I have been planning it for years and executing it for the last 12 months. It's near completion, so I figured I would share. Like all others, it spiraled out of control. With one purchase forced another, and another. No regrets, just want to drive it. Here is the run down. Enjoy!


Engine:

6.0 Iron block based 370 CI.
Stock crank shaft
Callies H-Beam Rods
Diamond dished pistons
ARP head studs, main studs
TFS 220 As Cast - BTR port work
BTR camshaft - 23x/23x (forgot exact numbers, I'll look at card)
Stock rockers - trunnion upgrade
Powdered metal valve guides
LS9 head gaskets
FAST 92mm intake - PTM 92mm throttle body
9.6:1 compression ratio estimate


Engine with the old tiny turbos




Fuel System:
Behind Bars Race Cars fabricated sumped tank.
Holley 12-1800 external pump
Holley 160 LB low impedance injectors
-10 AN Feed Line - Black
-10 AN Return Line - Black
-8 to the rails - Black
Magnafuel FPR
Nasty Nate fuel rails - Black

Fabricated sumped tank, making the Holley pump easy to use in external position. Pump is extremely quiet. Great pump.



Transmission and Rear End:

Jakes Stage 5 transmission
PTC 3500 triple disk billet converter
Trans cooler



MWC Fabricated 9"
3.50 gears
Strange S Trac
35 Spline axles
Narrowed 3" per side
Strange Sportsman rear brakes
PST aluminum driveshaft
MWC DA lower control arms
MWC DA pan hard bar
MWC DA torque arm
MWC rear drag bar
MWC chromoly 8 Point cage with parachute mount
BMR/DKT chromoly K-member
Viking double adjustable coil overs - all four corners. MWC transverse mounts.







Wheels and Tires:

Billet Specialties Street Lights

17x7 fronts - Nexen N Fera 225/50/17
15x10 rears - black powdered coated centers - Mickey Thompson ET Street Drag Radials 295/55/15
Rears are double bead locked


















Computer and Vehicle Management:

Holley Dominator EFI
4L80E harness
5.7" LCD touch screen
All Holley transducers
Bosch single wideband - soon to be dual

Turbo Kit:

APS Twin Turbo kit
Precision Turbo 6766 turbos - Rated at 935 HP a peice. Ported 4" covers
Upgraded T bolt clamps
Delete inlet tubes that were known to suck shut
Air to Air intercooler
Turbowerx Exa Scavenge pump mini (still waiting on)
TCI mini starter (still waiting on)

Old turbo ----> New Turbo







Car is not finished yet with the new turbos. It ran briefly and I drove it a few miles on the old turbos. New turbos are a huge change. It was and continues to be nothing but a problem getting this last string on parts. Very frustrating. Just need to get the boost controller hooked up, finalize the fuel system when the engine is back in the car and once I finally have possession of, get this silly scavenge pump mounted.

[RONS98TA]

I both like and don't like where the tubos are mounted down low on the engine that way keeps the heat lower under the hood, but the dirt from being that low to the ground would scare me. Iam sure your just using this as a race car and not a street car though.

[Hi-Po]

I both like and don't like where the tubos are mounted down low on the engine that way keeps the heat lower under the hood, but the dirt from being that low to the ground would scare me. Iam sure your just using this as a race car and not a street car though.

This is very much a street car. The turbos will have filters on them, and I don't live on any dirt roads. Air conditioning is staying on

Any turbo in the engine bay is going to produce heat and keep it under the hood. We'll see what the IATs will be, meth injection should keep it in line. Built the fuel system for E85, not a whole lot of pumps in the area though. I may pony up and get the turbos and manifolds coated, but the funds just aren't there at this moment.

Street car first, race car second.

[RONS98TA]

Sweet. I like the way you think "Street car first, race car second." I feel the same way.

[scott5]

Any updates on this? Like the combo.

Watch that fast under boost unless you got the burst panels but still watch how much boost you run through it. We ran a smoke test on a couple cars after about a month of boost and they were all leaking.

[Hi-Po]

Any updates on this? Like the combo.

Watch that fast under boost unless you got the burst panels but still watch how much boost you run through it. We ran a smoke test on a couple cars after about a month of boost and they were all leaking.

Waiting on turbo drains. I think I'll spend Sunday getting the engine and transmission back in car. From there, wiring up the fuel pump, scavenge pump, line lock, windows and headlights.

I do not intend on running the FAST for very long. First 500 miles will be babied so the rear/trans/engine get some time to break in properly. LS6 intake will go on in its place.

[SMWS6TA]

What back spacing did you get with those rear wheels?

[Hi-Po]

What back spacing did you get with those rear wheels?

5.5 I believe. They tuck really nice with the narrowed rear.

[RONS98TA]

Any updates on this? Like the combo.

Watch that fast under boost unless you got the burst panels but still watch how much boost you run through it. We ran a smoke test on a couple cars after about a month of boost and they were all leaking.

How much boost where said cars making that had leaks with the fast intake? I Am only making 8-10 lbs. Should I be concerned?

[Hi-Po]

How much boost where said cars making that had leaks with the fast intake? I Am only making 8-10 lbs. Should I be concerned?

If you had the FAST 92 or 102 I would say you should be alright, but the FAST 90mm is known to be the even more of a problem child. I would personally sell/trade plus cash to you for a LS6.

It's a shame the 1000 dollar intakes are so weak.

[RONS98TA]

No doubt. I cant believe that nearly $1000 and now I gotta worry about this b/s. My brother has a ls6 intake that im sure he would love to trade my fast 90. Im just gonna keep it on there until I notice some issues. I dont beat on it that often, and it's only driven about once a month. I also installed the burst plates on it when I 1st got it, so I think I will be okay. Thanks for the info and offer though.

[Hi-Po]

No doubt. I cant believe that nearly $1000 and now I gotta worry about this b/s. My brother has a ls6 intake that im sure he would love to trade my fast 90. Im just gonna keep it on there until I notice some issues. I dont beat on it that often, and it's only driven about once a month. I also installed the burst plates on it when I 1st got it, so I think I will be okay. Thanks for the info and offer though.

Oh, that wasn't an offer from me... I too have a FAST 92 that I'm looking to trade. You won't know there is a problem until it's too late. I've seen where the burst panels didn't work as designed on a few cars on Tech.

[scott5]

It all depends on the setup to really how hard your gna push boost past it, but I have seen some lose seal after 6lbs and some make there way to 15, but with a FAST and boost its not a matter of if it's a matter of when. I would say you would be fine if you barely drive it and never really drive it hard. Would switch up though if it was me.

[RONS98TA]

Good to know guys I appreciate the info. What is the "goto" intake then? Just a stock LS6? What about the throttle body?

[RONS98TA]

What if I took the fast apart and just epoxy it together? Wouldn't this resolve the problem of the seal giving away? This is of course assuming that the leak is where the 2 halves are just bolted together and just have a gasket to seal it. That is where the leak is?

[35th-ANV-SS]

I would just use an LS6 intake myself.

[scott5]

Good to know guys I appreciate the info. What is the "goto" intake then? Just a stock LS6? What about the throttle body?

Stock modded Throttle body with a P&P. As far as go to intake, its really based on setup and goals. Me. I am using an ls6 intake because of my budget as of now and me building the car in stages so I don't get bored with project. The new motor will more than likely get a VIC jr intake with Aarons elbow and then once I go 416/427 I will put a ls3 intake on it.

What if I took the fast apart and just epoxy it together? Wouldn't this resolve the problem of the seal giving away? This is of course assuming that the leak is where the 2 halves are just bolted together and just have a gasket to seal it. That is where the leak is?

Yes. That is what some people do, Would I do it? No because you are basically taking one of the advantages of a FAST intake out of the equation(being able to take it apart to maintain, fix, port and clean. If you have the newer style you will be okay to a point if you have the 90, sell it). You could run a check on it, see if its leaking. If not keep going on about your business, if it is just put alil RTV in that area. If you start pushing more boost then I would suggest looking into a different intake. There are people using them, especially with supercharged setups so I am not saying it is bad but its not ideal either. Just like an LS6 intake is not bad for a NA/nitrous setup but a FAST would be better, it works vice versa.

[Hi-Po]

Good to know guys I appreciate the info. What is the "goto" intake then? Just a stock LS6? What about the throttle body?

LS6 for sure. It's tried, true and relatively cheap. The FI market is keeping the used ones at 350-450. New ones are stupid priced.

The cowl really screws us for good intakes, followed by the hood.

[scott5]

What are your goals with the car?

[35th-ANV-SS]

If I ever decide to run more than 8-9psi I will probably just keep my LS6 intake. A larger intake isn't a necessity with FI as much as it is with a naturally aspirated motor. Remember, air is being forced through with FI at a very high speed. Not saying more power wouldn't be had with a larger/better intake, but like mentioned, the LS6 is hard to beat for the price and it has proven itself over and over again with high boost applications; upwards of 20psi without a hiccup. Don't try and reinvent the wheel