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wet shot???

This is a discussion on wet shot??? within the Nitrous forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; hey guys, im kinda new to the forums, but i love camaros, i traded my 01 3800 camaro for a ...

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    wet shot???

    hey guys, im kinda new to the forums, but i love camaros, i traded my 01 3800 camaro for a 99 ls1. my car has minor mods, none really worth mentioning. i have some money, not alot mind you, and i wanted to know if i can throw on a wet shot on my stock ride and not harm my car. if so, whats a good kit and how much would the kit and install run. if i cant spray a stock ride, whats the minimum that i would need and still whats a good kit to my car.

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    i've seen this in a thread already. The guys at nitrous express told me on the phone that a ls1 can run a 150hp "dry" shot of nitrous with no problems. so i'm guessing that with a wet shot you'd be able to run 100-250 hp, as long as your pistons hold up. you can find nitrous kits on ebay and though the sponsors from about 500-1500 depending on what type of kit you get, and what extras you get, such as purge kit, remote bottle opener, polished bottle, bottle heater, etc etc etc.

    My friend told me that the best nitrous system is a TNT. Looks like the easiest one to install is the zex.

    but i'm not the most experienced person in the world on this, so you might wana just skip my post.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Danger731's Avatar
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    Use the search function, you'll get 90% of the info you want.

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    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    you can spray a stock car with no problems up to 150 wet. as that's what i do with my black car. check with our sponsor www.harrisspeedworks.com for some pricing on n2o kits.

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    150 wet is the highest you can go and you should not spray below 3,000 rpms or you can blow your intake manifold right off. NX is what most people run I know, and none of us have probs. Used kit for $500...new for $1,000. No need to be scared....I run 150 wet and am one of the fastest around. It is tuff to beat an LS1 on the juice!

    Remember safety first...need to get rpm box to shut off and turn on so you don't spray early and also if you miss a shift the NOS will shut down. Also, FPSS....fuel preasure safety switch is also great to have...it shuts the NOS off if the fuel pump goes or if the fuel does not get to the line for some reason so you don't spray NOS only into the motor.

    It is awesome having a 500hp car when you want it and a regular car to drive around town that is dependable and still pretty damn fast!

  6. #6
    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z28er View Post
    150 wet is the highest you can go and you should not spray below 3,000 rpms or you can blow your intake manifold right off.

    guess i better stop spraying at 2000 rpms then.

    let's qualify that statement a little better. in first gear, you can spray below 3000 rpms. the rpms climbs way too fast for it to be of any consequence. let's further qualify this by saying it also depends on how big of a shot you are doing. i do 150+ at 2000-2500 rpms in 1st gear. would i do a 300 shot at 2000 rpms in first gear with a stock motor? most likely not.

    now, let's say you have a manual car and are in 6th gear running 45 mph and turning 1800 rpms. you hit the nitrous at that point without downshifting. yes, you will have a problem. the load on the engine is too high. so, the crank, piston, and/or connecting rod will most likely let go. maybe get a backfire and blow the intake. i have a good friend of mine that did just this scenario. burned the car to the ground.

    automatics have the luxury of downshifting themselves. so, this scenario is real hard to accompllish.
    Last edited by mrr23; 08-08-2006 at 11:27 AM.

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    That is not good info...not to fight about it, but NX told me directly not to run wet shot below 3,000 rpms in an LS1....if you are spraying at 2,000 you are pushing your luck according to NX. I would never tell a fellow LS1 member to spray at 2,000 rpm's....this is way to low.

    I understand that once you nail it out of first, your car will never even drop to 2,000 rpm's under WOT ever again...my car is an M6 and after shifting out of first, my rpm's (even on bad shifts) do not drop below 4500 rpm's, so the window switch at this point is only protecting me from a missed shift after 6,000 rpm's, but first gear kicks on at 3,600 for me....safe, lets me have time to hook and as soon as the tires plant....my NX 150 wet turns on.

    2000 is crazy....do a vote...I bet less than 5 people with a stock motor is spraying that early.

    This is an NX opinion not mine!

    Rich

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    My friend didn't have a window switch. Bogged off the line. Blew his intake. Car went up in flames. My suggestion is not spray below 3000k.
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    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    we can debate what's good info or not. but, i'd prefer you to not tell me i just gave out bad info without better supporting info other than the nitrous company said so.

    and i speak directly with ricky from time to time as well. the minimum 3000 rpms is just a legal thing. and it's an every nitrous company opinion, not just NX.

    i've hit it at 1000 rpms in first gear on a dyno. unfortunately, dynojet winpep software couldn't record rpm wise. i had to graph it in time which was just under 2 seconds.

    here's info right off the manufacturers websites regard at what minimum rpms to activate nitrous. pay particular attention to NX

    answers from the manufacturers:

    Quote Originally Posted by Compucar
    Right off the starting line, (traction permitting) will give you the best ET due to the amount of torque produced. You should be at or above 2500 RPM and at wide-open throttle to eliminate the chances of a backfire.
    Quote Originally Posted by NX
    The RPM level is not as important as is the motors ability to rev freely when the nitrous is engaged, I.E. If the vehicle is in low gear, nitrous can be engaged at any time, but if the vehicle is in a higher gear moving at a slow speed when the nitrous is engaged the engine will detonate and damage will occur.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ny-trex
    At wide open throttle only (unless a progressive controller is used). Due to the tremendous amount of increased torque, you will generally find best results, traction permitting, at early activation. Nitrous can be safely applied above 2,500 RPM under full throttle conditions.
    Quote Originally Posted by Zex
    We recommend at least 2500rpm as a minimum for nitrous system activation. This ensures that you will not have excessive cylinder pressures that could cause engine damage.

    and do a vote, you'll get less than five because people keep getting told not to do it under 3000 rpms. and none of them said at least 3000 rpms.

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    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ed Blown Vert View Post
    My friend didn't have a window switch. Bogged off the line. Blew his intake. Car went up in flames. My suggestion is not spray below 3000k.

    but, it wasn't because of the nitrous. it was because of the motor's inability to rpm upward. this is a debate that will go for sometime. it's just like drinking. it's recommended no more than three drinks. but some people can handle more without it affecting their abilities than others.

    with that in mind, it the motor and drivetrain can handle it, then do it. the sooner you use it, the lower your ET will be. but, undersatand, you play, you pay.

    i did that test in a 99TA i had. 150 shot compucar system.

    and that was a completely stock car with zero modifications. had that car for 4 weeks, then got the black formula. financing issues.
    3000 rpms 12.5
    2500 rpms 12.3
    2000 rpms 12.2
    1800 rpms, tires went up in smoke.

  11. #11
    Blown, Stroked, & Sprayed

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    Quote Originally Posted by mrr23 View Post
    but, it wasn't because of the nitrous. it was because of the motor's inability to rpm upward. this is a debate that will go for sometime. it's just like drinking. it's recommended no more than three drinks. but some people can handle more without it affecting their abilities than others.
    But you do agree if he had a Window switch and didn't spray below 3000k his car most likely would not have burnt up?

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    You are right....you play you pay....I just hope keeping my pill at 3600 pays off over time...last thing I want is a blown motor....I have other things to worry about besides being the fastest (though Jay will tell you I did enjoy pulling him by a few).

    Rich

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    Senior Member Blown Interceptor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z28er View Post
    You are right....you play you pay....I just hope keeping my pill at 3600 pays off over time...last thing I want is a blown motor....I have other things to worry about besides being the fastest (though Jay will tell you I did enjoy pulling him by a few).

    Rich




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    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ed Blown Vert View Post
    But you do agree if he had a Window switch and didn't spray below 3000k his car most likely would not have burnt up?
    he would have less of a chance of overloading the motor with nitrous due to it bogging, yes.

    for manual cars, i highly recommend a window switch.

  15. #15
    Blown, Stroked, & Sprayed

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    Ok, I think I see the issue. I am talking about a M6 and you are talking about an A4.

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    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    well, i'm talking about and transmission type car. so long as a motor and drivetrain can handle it, then do it. what i'm agreeing on is a manual using a window switch. in your friends case, the window switch wouldn't turned the nitrous off when the rpms dropped below whatever rpms he set it at.

  17. #17
    Blown, Stroked, & Sprayed

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    Quote Originally Posted by mrr23 View Post
    in your friends case, the window switch wouldn't turned the nitrous off when the rpms dropped below whatever rpms he set it at.
    I don't understand, If he had a windows switch set for 3000-6000, it would not have spray till 3000.

    So if he bogged off the the line with one, he would not have had his car go up in flames.

    Am I missing something?

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    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    aren't missing anything from what i can see. two things have to happen for the nitrous to come on. WOT and 3000 rpms. he can have his motor revving at 3500 rpms while waiting for the tree. but, until he goes WOT, the system doesn't activate. so long as it's wired that way. which just about every window switch uses the WOT switch as either a ground or power activation for he window switch.

    now, say he launches and gets above the 3000 rpms for a spilt second, then drops back under 3000 rpms. the window switch would turn off the nitrous when it got back below 3000 rpms.

    what happend with your friend is the motor lugged while he was at WOT to point where the motor couldn't rpm upward anymore. when this happened, the intake filled with n2o and fuel(assuming wet), but the motor kept slowing down and the mixture had no place to go. all the while he was at WOT adding more nad more. now, you get to a point where the intake and cylinders are saturated and that's when it happened. the airflow stalled, then BANG!!!

    let me find the airflow formula and i'll show you that even at 2000 rpms, the air is flowing so fast through the motor, that you still aren't going have the famed "puddling" issue that people are scared of.

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    I understand exactly what happened.

    I recommend a Window switch not because of the puddling or the engine and tranny can't handle it. But because you can lugged the engine.

    I would rather tell a newbie to always use one. They can decide use it or not. Or spray below 3000.

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    99 stock camaro, 125 wet shot coming on at 2500, went 11.80 at 119 on a g-tech today. First run was with windows down and wife in car went 12.08 at 114. Second run was 11.80 @ 119 with windows up and only me in the car. Drag radials on a prepped surface. Only mods are the free mods listed on this site and nitrous. Thanks to matt at hsw for the help. Need some exhaust, cam, stall, gears and a tune, should be good for 10's!

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