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plate or direct port?

This is a discussion on plate or direct port? within the Nitrous forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; sound like a almost unanamous vote for wet system. so plate or direct port? thx....

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    plate or direct port?

    sound like a almost unanamous vote for wet system. so plate or direct port? thx.

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    What are your goals and what is done with the car. An LT1 is maybe a unanimous vote for a wet system but an Ls1 takes to dry just fine.

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    Member jrgswhitels1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2000 View Post
    What are your goals and what is done with the car. An LT1 is maybe a unanimous vote for a wet system but an Ls1 takes to dry just fine.
    ........Most will depend on your tune most importantly. The preferred kit is wet for the LS motors. The added fueling is a good safe guard, aside cylinder skewing for weaker cylinders, where lean factors can propagate.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rhinojohn View Post
    sound like a almost unanamous vote for wet system. so plate or direct port? thx.
    ...motor built, max power belongs to direct port for refined and a much more efficent delivery- also a bigger blast or hit, plate system is less refined and does an adeqate job to provide really good power. Have the money and the build- direct, stock with good heads and cam-plate!...take your pick..

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    Quote Originally Posted by jrgswhitels1 View Post
    ........Most will depend on your tune most importantly. The preferred kit is wet for the LS motors. The added fueling is a good safe guard, aside cylinder skewing for weaker cylinders, where lean factors can propagate.
    I agree but disagree. If you can tune, dry is just fine. If you want to argue the added fueling is a good safe guard, I want to ask what happens if a fuel noid fails? It comes down to preference and variables that you dont have the answers to make a decision what kit is best for him. Budget, knowledge of tuning, and goals are just a few things we dont know. Wet may not be his preffered kit if he want to spray a 75 shot every once in a while around town to have a little fun but is low on money. And YES you can go MUCH bigger if your careful with what your doing. The part I agree with is that its all in your tune.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2000 View Post
    I agree but disagree. If you can tune, dry is just fine. If you want to argue the added fueling is a good safe guard, I want to ask what happens if a fuel noid fails? It comes down to preference and variables that you dont have the answers to make a decision what kit is best for him. Budget, knowledge of tuning, and goals are just a few things we dont know. Wet may not be his preffered kit if he want to spray a 75 shot every once in a while around town to have a little fun but is low on money. And YES you can go MUCH bigger if your careful with what your doing. The part I agree with is that its all in your tune.
    ...ahhh...yeah, for a nice little 75 horse blast or smaller..otherwise....kerplunk.truely no right/wrong answer here but which to choose in your tune and favor....BUT Wet kits fueling is an added bonus for cylinder quenching and your right, fuel noids' fail, you could be in trouble. Dry Kits are almost hit or miss with your tune and adjustments, most cars running really rich during normal driving and stink'n up your car, your girlfriend, you and the rest. Dry kits really drive up your DC percentage coupled with stock injectors that can run static. Wet kits provided that extra fueling without reaching that limit, like in the dry kit. Like I said before, FUELING is key...always has, always will be, especially with blown apllications. The powerhouse belongs to the Wet kit, especially with BSFC that can be easily almost doubled with inducted applications. I have nothing against dry kits though, I just prefer wet for mostly all applications and prefer to tune around it for max power, that's it. The real treasure about this is, with the right parts and tuning, our LT1's and LS engines are ripe for it...LOL!
    Last edited by jrgswhitels1; 09-25-2010 at 07:33 AM.

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    wow! ok, if i were to install a 150hp plate with a better pump, what sort of tuning are you talking about? with any no2 opion am i going to need to send out my cpu? 2000, ask about "whats best for him?" well tuning mordern cars is something i have very little knowledge of. i do most of my heavy accelertion at green lights with some 'stang next to me , or highway ramps. as for budget im hoping to spend less than 1K for everything, including absolutly everything needed to be completely safe to engine. thx for all your help.

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    Harris speed works and Nitrous Outlet both have some pretty cool wet plate kits for LS1's. Start with smaller shots and verify by plugs. For max power and safetly get it to someone who can dynotune and scan it but tons of people get by just fine without it.

    jrgswhitels1: Most of what you say is 100% true. 5 years ago. Dry products are out now that have changed all that. Just look at The interface HSW sells. An LS1 will like whatever you tell it to like. I said 75 shot because you can run one for 300 bucks just fine and itll still be fun. Get the bells and whistles and know how to tune it correctly and a big shot isnt a crazy thing.

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    With either wet or dry, you will need some method of pulling timing... several ways to do it... through the tune, interfaces, etc.

    With either wet or dry, you will probably need a pump upgrade (depending on your other mods and total power level)... dry will need injectors too...

    There is nothing wrong with a dry setup as long as it isn't depending on spraying across the MAF to add the fueling (which most of the out-of-the-box dry kits do). In my opinion, that is a very inconsistent way of determining the fuel that is getting added... I've tuned a few for customers, and won't do them any more - the tiniest bit of variance in the spray angle can change the enrichment - do you really want to count on that? There are other ways to control the amount of fuel being added though (interfaces, custom operating system tunes, etc.)

    With either, you will want a controller (window switch or progressor)...
    Last edited by LSXZ28; 09-25-2010 at 03:29 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2000 View Post
    Harris speed works and Nitrous Outlet both have some pretty cool wet plate kits for LS1's. Start with smaller shots and verify by plugs. For max power and safetly get it to someone who can dynotune and scan it but tons of people get by just fine without it.

    jrgswhitels1: Most of what you say is 100% true. 5 years ago. Dry products are out now that have changed all that. Just look at The interface HSW sells. An LS1 will like whatever you tell it to like. I said 75 shot because you can run one for 300 bucks just fine and itll still be fun. Get the bells and whistles and know how to tune it correctly and a big shot isnt a crazy thing.
    .....I hear ya. Love the fact how Nitrous companies claim that they have safe systems..... They will do anything to sell their kits!! LOL!

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    Quote Originally Posted by jrgswhitels1 View Post
    .....I hear ya. Love the fact how Nitrous companies claim that they have safe systems..... They will do anything to sell their kits!! LOL!
    Pretty much every reputable nitrous company out there sells safe systems! The problem is when idiots who don't know what they are doing slap one on their car without the supporting equipment that is needed to spray safely or the knowledge to tune it properly and then cry when they blow thier junk up...

    The only way you can blame a nitrous kit for a problem is if it has faulty parts... most are pretty good, but the old adage is true - you get what you pay for.

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    ....so you can safely say, that with all the correct parts and related items needed, your block can run the juice as much as you want without concern? ....sorry, dont think so friend. Nitrous has severe limits, implied even in there instructions/label, so they WARN you ahead of time! No matter how well it's dialed in...Pro's, idiots and all......there is NOTHING safe about Nitrous oxide, as well as there are NO guarantee's or warranties to imply otherwise....period! Even Zex, who claim to have the "safest" and "smartest" nitrous kits entail disclaimers as to the product, including opened private transportation; which by the way is illegal in many states. It's just a graduated risk we all take for max power, nothing more, nothing less. It is just about the only power adder out there that you just cant use daily (5 days/week) for power, like blowers and turbo's that are mostly consistent, durable and can last the duration of the block or many, many miles. Nitrous is very volatile and is perfect for those all-out blasts at the track or street, but everyone is liable except the companies that sell them, for their own errors like you've mentioned, as well as those who have their act together.......eventually, the toll will reach it's max. So, it's not if it will happen but, when!!
    Last edited by jrgswhitels1; 09-29-2010 at 08:04 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by LSXZ28 View Post
    Pretty much every reputable nitrous company out there sells safe systems! The problem is when idiots who don't know what they are doing slap one on their car without the supporting equipment that is needed to spray safely or the knowledge to tune it properly and then cry when they blow thier junk up...

    The only way you can blame a nitrous kit for a problem is if it has faulty parts... most are pretty good, but the old adage is true - you get what you pay for.
    .......but I do understand how Nitrous was over used and abused. I do not want you to miss understand me friend. I agree with you in that aspect.

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    You are very misinformed... Like a blower, turbo, or heads/cam - all nitrous does is add more oxygen so you can burn more fuel and make more power... simple concept. The single biggest reason people break stuff with nitrous is the tuning... they run too much timing - and believe it or not, too much fuel...

    Do you really think that if you run a blower car or turbo car into boost day in and day out that it isn't just as hard on the engine as nitrous? You'd be wrong there... power of large levels will wear and tear on an engine no matter how you make it...

    The companies put those disclaimers on there because they know how easy it is for someone who has no clue what they are doing to pick up a kit and through it on thier car... much cheaper and easier to do than a blower or turbo. So, it gets misused and gets a bad reputation. And it's only illegal to transport because it is considered a hazardous material because of the pressure... it isn't even flammable!

    I sprayed my mid 9 sec street car over 375 passes a season - sold the car still running great...

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    without any negative chemical consequence to the reintroduction to sudden temperature inversion?

    Mis-informed....hahaha, oxygen is occupied, hit the squeeze, COLD shot of bonded molecules of Nitrous Oxide and fuel that's hitting a hot piston dropping the oxidizer even more, (insert temp. inversion here) then that is already being mixed (re-introduced) with the fuel and air sucked in through the decompression (cycle 1 of 4 cycles, remember) stroke and evaporized with the extra heat in the cylinder. This leads to out of control cylinder pressures that will lead to predetonation and preignition, coupled with the sudden influx of temperature stock parts cant handle, it will surely have devastating effects. Even the BEST techs and car guys will admit that NOS alone, is inherently dangerous and can propogate issues at anytime! Accidents happen that we cant control, like the Zo6 on "Youtube", that burns to the ground because of a bad selenoid. That Vette was done by a top speed shop, done in by Nitrous by accident. I once seen an 04' GTO's hood blow completely off the car at a track once, nearly missing other spectators..... he later mentioned that one of his switches went bad and ....POOF! I run the squeeze on my 93', but I accept the responsibilities from it that an ACCIDENT can happen, good tuner or not, Pro or not, noob to the kit or not. It is the natural state of such a dangerous chemical that accidents DO happen, THIS.. is what makes it dangerous!! Now which part of Nitrous is safe???
    Last edited by jrgswhitels1; 09-30-2010 at 06:56 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jrgswhitels1 View Post
    without any negative chemical consequence to the reintroduction to sudden temperature inversion
    that about sums it up...

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    NOS,,uh...Nitrous Oxide....you know, the chemical element??? Perhaps you've been mis-informed about it in your 9 sec. car friend...........three hundred how many runs......there's the bs. Where's it at now?.........Sold, haha, .....OK! Bet you think NOS has a higher percentage of oxygen than nitrogen too right? LOL...that's next.....
    Last edited by jrgswhitels1; 09-30-2010 at 03:29 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jrgswhitels1 View Post
    without any negative chemical consequence to the reintroduction to sudden temperature inversion?

    Mis-informed....hahaha, oxygen is occupied, hit the squeeze, COLD shot of bonded molecules of Nitrous Oxide and fuel that's hitting a hot piston dropping the oxidizer even more, (insert temp. inversion here) then that is already being mixed (re-introduced) with the fuel and air sucked in through the decompression (cycle 1 of 4 cycles, remember) stroke and evaporized with the extra heat in the cylinder. This leads to out of control cylinder pressures that will lead to predetonation and preignition, coupled with the sudden influx of temperature stock parts cant handle, it will surely have devastating effects. Even the BEST techs and car guys will admit that NOS alone, is inherently dangerous and can propogate issues at anytime! Accidents happen that we cant control, like the Zo6 on "Youtube", that burns to the ground because of a bad selenoid. That Vette was done by a top speed shop, done in by Nitrous by accident. I once seen an 04' GTO's hood blow completely off the car at a track once, nearly missing other spectators..... he later mentioned that one of his switches went bad and ....POOF! I run the squeeze on my 93', but I accept the responsibilities from it that an ACCIDENT can happen, good tuner or not, Pro or not, noob to the kit or not. It is the natural state of such a dangerous chemical that accidents DO happen, THIS.. is what makes it dangerous!! Now which part of Nitrous is safe???
    Wow man, sounds like you may be huffin that shit while you're posting LOL

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    What cracks me up the most is how many times he will go back and edit his posts... and they get so much better when he does LOL! Timestamps tell a story...

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    Yea, I quit while my sanity was still intact on the matter. LOL

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