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Nos on Stock Setup

This is a discussion on Nos on Stock Setup within the Nitrous forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Ok So i am toying around with the ID of runnin the juice, What do you all think? I have ...

  1. #1
    Face Man Patsy57's Avatar
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    Nos on Stock Setup

    Ok So i am toying around with the ID of runnin the juice, What do you all think? I have heard great things and i have heard horror stories. I do not want detonation in my block so what do you think is a good kit to run?

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    Nitrous is a great power adder, but do realize that its going to break your engine, tranny, and/or rear end at some point. Personally I would not run NO2 with out building the engine to handle it. Also if you have an auto you really should look into a torque converter that is built for NO2 use. On a stock LSx engine most all the wet kits from your name brand companies (NOS, Nitrous Systems, and Zex) are good stuff. Most kits have all the needed safety parts and controller parts. My other warning is like everything if you push it hard enough it will break. Do a search in the power adder forum and also call and talk to some of the sponsors that have been tuning cars for some time. They well be able to tell you what worked for them and well be able to tell you what all the parts you will need.
    1998 Camaro SS Hard Coupe Bright Red #1593
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    Crazy Canuck ! Eugenio_SS's Avatar
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    like any power adder, it adds strain to your car.
    on a stock setup, stay within +150hp shot.
    make sure you have a fuel pump, tune and spark plugs.
    Eugenio_SS
    almost stock triple-black 2000 SS convertible with 17x11s on all 4 w/ 315s at the track or on the street with 18x10.5s on all 4 w/ 315s: (1), (2)

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    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    you can run a 150 wet kit on a stock car. i did and went 11.97 @ 117. change out the spark plugs to 2 heat ranges colder. as with anything, things can break. a good kit is from our sponsor www.harrisspeedworks.com

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    Senior Member Danger731's Avatar
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    An aftermarket torque arm and relocation braket is my recomendation. I just ripped mine off my differential with a 100 shot in second gear.
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    Just another Joe Eagle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danger731 View Post
    An aftermarket torque arm and relocation braket is my recomendation. I just ripped mine off my differential with a 100 shot in second gear.
    What? Thats rediculous. How did you do that?

    I've been spraying 150HP on my car for a year now (during the warm months anyways, about 15 bottles worth) and I've had zero problems... let alone "ripping" parts off my car... and I'm running drag radials too. I'm thinking my LS6 clutch is going to go first.

    Everyone (except mrr & Eugenio sorta) has given fairly negative feedback - yet N2O has got to be one of the best mods I've done to my car. With a proper tune and supporting mods, your STOCK car will hold 150HP shot for YEARS.

    -Eagle

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    Member MuscleByrd's Avatar
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    I have a wet NOS system on mine ....I have never ran it at the track but it works wonderful in the Street....

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    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eagle View Post
    Everyone (except mrr & Eugenio sorta) has given fairly negative feedback
    -Eagle
    well, we don't want to tell him just throw it on and all will be fine either. to the plus side, i've never had an engine failure due to nitrous. and that's without all the neato safety stuff.

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    Senior Member Danger731's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eagle View Post
    What? Thats rediculous. How did you do that?

    I've been spraying 150HP on my car for a year now (during the warm months anyways, about 15 bottles worth) and I've had zero problems... let alone "ripping" parts off my car... and I'm running drag radials too. I'm thinking my LS6 clutch is going to go first.

    Everyone (except mrr & Eugenio sorta) has given fairly negative feedback - yet N2O has got to be one of the best mods I've done to my car. With a proper tune and supporting mods, your STOCK car will hold 150HP shot for YEARS.

    -Eagle
    I had it activate at around 35 40 mph and that was that. Got a new one from GM with a 12 month parts and labor warantee. After that I'm goin BMR with a relocation bracket. Untill then I'm gunna be rollin a little faster. The Auburn hooks hard so I guess the TA was the weakest link.

    The dealer could't believe it either.

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    Just another Joe Eagle's Avatar
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    I completely agree. But at the same time I don't think its fair to scare the guy off either. With the proper upgrades to the car, N2O can be a GREAT power adder.

    -Eagle

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    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eagle View Post
    I completely agree. But at the same time I don't think its fair to scare the guy off either. With the proper upgrades to the car, N2O can be a GREAT power adder.

    -Eagle
    correct. if anything i am a proponent for nitrous

  12. #12
    Member Z28collection's Avatar
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    ive had a 150 shot dry kit on my 99 z28 for over 3 years now and i love it, its been the best bolt on mod ive done. i did however rip the driveshaft in 2 pieces at the track but i just got a better driveshaft. if you break it then upgrade it thats my excuse to the wife so i can buy more goodies for my ride.

  13. #13
    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Spray It!!!!!!

    I have been installing and playing with nitrous for over 15 years and yet to have a single back fire or any of the "horror stories"...........

    Is like anything people don't know of they are scared. Almost EVERY issue I have seen or been around it has been due to Stupid mistakes of the idiots that tried to install it them self's.

    Buy a quality kit plate kit that spray's behind the throttle body and upgrade the fuel pump to a Walbro 255 ($100) and a set of AutoLite AR94 plugs and you'll be fine to 175 for years of fun.

    Yes if you start with a weak motor or have prior issues it can . That is the same with anything though. If you have a weak cylinder that has excess blow by which is allowing oil contamination into that cylinder well than hell yes it's going to detonate..............

    I'll also tell you that I have NEVER used a window switch or WOT switch on ANY of my cars in 16 years. I always have my kits on a hand held button and NO I don't wait until 3000 rpm to hit it or second gear that's all a safety blanket that isn't necessary nor needed if the A/F is correct. I have a car we blow 300 through from 1600rpm on the foot brake. NEVER ONCE EVEN NIPPED A PLUG. And for that matter I'll push the button at idle.

    Anyways there is a couple things I would due prior to installing a kit. Due to the massive oil consumption these LS motors burn because of their shitty PCV system. The rings get VERY sticky in the ring lands from all the oil. To break this up I would SeaFoam the motor through a vacuum line letting it stall out...... Sit for 5-10 min fire it back up hold @ 2500 and suck the other half of can through. Now that that has been done change the oil to a Quality oil and filter and perform a compression test. Once you do that you'll have a good idea of the condition of your cylinders. I have seen drastic differences in #'s after SeaFoaming them.
    Then I would install a separator in that hose so you don't continue to such that oil mist into the intake charge. There are many kits and many ways to make your own.

    The LS motor in your car is a "Skirted Block" which means the bottom end is Very strong and sturdy. I have blown over 200 on stock motors for years with NO issues.

    Good Luck.
    Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!

  14. #14
    Face Man Patsy57's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LS2Tuner View Post
    I have been installing and playing with nitrous for over 15 years and yet to have a single back fire or any of the "horror stories"...........

    Is like anything people don't know of they are scared. Almost EVERY issue I have seen or been around it has been due to Stupid mistakes of the idiots that tried to install it them self's.

    Buy a quality kit plate kit that spray's behind the throttle body and upgrade the fuel pump to a Walbro 255 ($100) and a set of AutoLite AR94 plugs and you'll be fine to 175 for years of fun.

    Yes if you start with a weak motor or have prior issues it can . That is the same with anything though. If you have a weak cylinder that has excess blow by which is allowing oil contamination into that cylinder well than hell yes it's going to detonate..............

    I'll also tell you that I have NEVER used a window switch or WOT switch on ANY of my cars in 16 years. I always have my kits on a hand held button and NO I don't wait until 3000 rpm to hit it or second gear that's all a safety blanket that isn't necessary nor needed if the A/F is correct. I have a car we blow 300 through from 1600rpm on the foot brake. NEVER ONCE EVEN NIPPED A PLUG. And for that matter I'll push the button at idle.

    Anyways there is a couple things I would due prior to installing a kit. Due to the massive oil consumption these LS motors burn because of their shitty PCV system. The rings get VERY sticky in the ring lands from all the oil. To break this up I would SeaFoam the motor through a vacuum line letting it stall out...... Sit for 5-10 min fire it back up hold @ 2500 and suck the other half of can through. Now that that has been done change the oil to a Quality oil and filter and perform a compression test. Once you do that you'll have a good idea of the condition of your cylinders. I have seen drastic differences in #'s after SeaFoaming them.
    Then I would install a separator in that hose so you don't continue to such that oil mist into the intake charge. There are many kits and many ways to make your own.

    The LS motor in your car is a "Skirted Block" which means the bottom end is Very strong and sturdy. I have blown over 200 on stock motors for years with NO issues.

    Good Luck.

    So I have had my motor Compression tested already and all cylinders are within 10. Do you think it would be that drastic of a difference with Sea Foaming it? I am nervouse about sea foaming my motor I hear good things and I hear bad things (Like Sea Foam will eat at your seals).

    Also Do you think the 150 shit will be fine with heads and cam done to the motor already? I`m looking at the Harris Speed works Lsx/Fast Kit.

  15. #15
    Just another Joe Eagle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patsy57 View Post
    So I have had my motor Compression tested already and all cylinders are within 10. Do you think it would be that drastic of a difference with Sea Foaming it? I am nervouse about sea foaming my motor I hear good things and I hear bad things (Like Sea Foam will eat at your seals).

    Also Do you think the 150 shit will be fine with heads and cam done to the motor already? I`m looking at the Harris Speed works Lsx/Fast Kit.
    All experiences I've had with seafoam have been fine, no issues.

    As long as ur compression isn't too rediculous, you have proper fueling capabilities (target 11.8 A/F ratio on the juice), and timing @ roughly stock values, you will have no issue running 150HP thru your engine. Monitoring KR and injector duty values is always a good idea too!

    -Eagle

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    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patsy57 View Post
    So I have had my motor Compression tested already and all cylinders are within 10. Do you think it would be that drastic of a difference with Sea Foaming it? I am nervouse about sea foaming my motor I hear good things and I hear bad things (Like Sea Foam will eat at your seals).

    Also Do you think the 150 shit will be fine with heads and cam done to the motor already? I`m looking at the Harris Speed works Lsx/Fast Kit.
    When people are talking about SeaFoam hurting seals they are talking about running it through the oil. I'm referring to sucking it through the intake into the combustion chamber to remove ANY carbon and oil gunk build up. Believe me a small amount of build up on the face of the piston raises the static compression. You'll see how bad it smokes when you do it........... That is all the shit built up on the intake valve stems and faces,oil build up in intake runner,and carbon on the piston face.

    I have NEVER had a issue with it and I started using it in 93.

    What heads and cam are they? Cam will like the N20 if it is ground on a 110 or higher. Also what head gaskets were used during the re assembly process? Did you do it your self?

  17. #17
    Junior Member ICEMAN007's Avatar
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    I agree with Z28 COLLECTION i've been using that same theory and excusses. It is a good way to get the upgraded parts you want

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    Junior Member mudnyeri's Avatar
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    tnt power ring kit is installed , no problems on my stock 2001 ta

  19. #19
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    '99 with 150 NX wet shark noz....never had any probs. Stock tuning. NGK plugs. 430rwhp/505rwtq with cat back dynomouth, lid, ftra, and 4.10's. I have about every susp piece in the world though that bolts on, so maybe this has kept things from breaking. Damn thing runs fast. I use to be scared of the juice, but these days, they have made it pretty safe. WOT switch, RPM activated, max rpm shut down, auto shutoff if fuel side is not up to par, etc. I am never scared, and once you spray, you truely know what an LS1 can do...430rwhp...come on...that is awesome for $1k or less!!
    Last edited by Z28er; 05-13-2008 at 09:03 AM.

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    My cousin went 9.8 with 100K mile ls1 block ported stock heads stock fuel system with a holly 255,ford 30's and a hot wire kit. had a 2 stage 250 shot on it. 100 dry to leave and 150 wet after 5500.

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