NOS & Automatics??

**BDowning** · 01-16-2007, 08:15 AM

HELP, I have been trying to learn what I can about nitrous. This is something I said I would never do , but I am looking at it because this appears to be the cheapest horse power out there.

This what I am working on: 2002 WS 6 automatic, 14k miles, only the free mods have been installed (airbox, K & N, polish MAF, 160deg thermostat)

This what I think I know:
The wet system seems to be the better of the two?
Everyone talks about the Window Switch, do you need this for a automatic ??
What is the down side to using NOS?
How hard is this on a automatic?
Can you use the NOS while the auto is shifting gears??

Thanks in advance
Bill

**mrr23** · 01-16-2007, 08:40 AM

wet system allows you to adjust the a/f ratio via the jets. don't need larger injectors or fuel pump.

window switch is nice to have, just not necessary. window switch has rpm activation/deactivation points. this leaves you to concentrate on launching and not have to think about when to turn it on.

down side to nitrous? well, it brings your ET down. it can be harder on engine/drivetrain when you get up there in the power levels.

i spray through the shifts. others will deactivate it just before shifting to put less stress on the trans to help it last longer.

**Danger731** · 01-16-2007, 08:41 AM

yes wet is better
yes you need a window switch
down side of nos is not spending $ on saftey n blowing up something.
if you spray through shifts it will eat up your tranny - get a window switch
see above
lastly use the search function

**BDowning** · 01-16-2007, 08:54 AM

Thanks for the help

As far as the "Search" wasn't sure what to search for or how to use ??? Sorry

**juiced99ws6** · 01-16-2007, 09:52 AM

Originally Posted by mrr23

down side to nitrous? well, it brings your ET down. it can be harder on engine/drivetrain when you get up there in the power levels.

like he said, it can be harder on engine and drivetrain with high power levels but that is the same as any other way you make power. 500rwhp on spray is really no different that 500rwhp on motor

***Ed Blown Vert*** · 01-16-2007, 10:07 AM

Originally Posted by juiced99ws6

like he said, it can be harder on engine and drivetrain with high power levels but that is the same as any other way you make power. 500rwhp on spray is really no different that 500rwhp on motor

Actually Nitrous is a instant torque hit. Which can cause more damage. N/A and a blower is more of a slow increase in power.

**Todd157k** · 01-16-2007, 10:11 AM

Check out the Wet vs. Dry thread on Ls1tech. I really think the answer to "better" lies with the answer to "how big of shot are you going to go with". Then "better" = "easier to tune".
Under 150 shot, I strongly support Dry. Over that, and then you're talking injector upgrade (took me about 30 mins and $200), a tuning program, and for the f-body guys, a fuel pump upgrade. (which is needed for either system with big n2o shots)

and no, I don't shift through the gears but I do see a lot of guys doing it. I also care more for a tranny than I do for that last .05 seconds.

**juiced99ws6** · 01-20-2007, 09:25 PM

Originally Posted by Ed Blown Vert

Actually Nitrous is a instant torque hit. Which can cause more damage. N/A and a blower is more of a slow increase in power.

very true, however nitrous can be less damaging because of the fact that the power is not used NEARLY as often and you are normally running at much lower power levels

**juiced99ws6** · 01-20-2007, 09:26 PM

also now they have progressive nitrous controllers which will make it even more like a blower than anything else. something i am looking into myself soon

before anyone asks...
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/MC_Progressive.htm

**BDowning** · 01-21-2007, 05:06 AM

Thanks Guys!! This is what I like about this board....a person can learn soooo much!

Thanks again
Bill

**dementia** · 01-21-2007, 11:01 AM

Originally Posted by juiced99ws6

also now they have progressive nitrous controllers which will make it even more like a blower than anything else. something i am looking into myself soon

before anyone asks...
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/MC_Progressive.htm

I've been doing some reading and theres a lot of people saying that progressive controllers are really hard on your noids. Some say that one run with a progressive controller puts about as much damage on the noid as a full season of racing without the controller. Ya might wanna look into a dual stage setup.

**sobaka79** · 01-21-2007, 02:36 PM

Originally Posted by Danger731

lastly use the search function

i like dry, wet is too much trouble, dont take peoples word for it, research and weigh the facts yourself, lots of people like to talk without backing it up with real information

**mrr23** · 01-21-2007, 04:40 PM

Originally Posted by sobaka79

i like dry, wet is too much trouble, dont take peoples word for it, research and weigh the facts yourself, lots of people like to talk without backing it up with real information

well, why is wet too much trouble?

i see dry as more trouble. you have to make sure the nozzle is placed correctly, so the MAF can read the incoming nitrous to supply the fuel. if not read properly, then you go lean. if you can't get a good enough reading, then you have to go into the PCM to tune for it. then, depending on how much duty cycle you injectors are at, you may need to upgrade, along with a fuel pump, so it can feed the injectors.

with a wet, it's easier to tune it. all you have to do is change the jetting around to get the proper a/f ratio you are shooting for. no need for upgrading the fuel pump and injectors. the nozzle injects the fuel, instead of the injectors.

**sobaka79** · 01-21-2007, 05:15 PM

Originally Posted by mrr23

well, why is wet too much trouble?

i see dry as more trouble. you have to make sure the nozzle is placed correctly, so the MAF can read the incoming nitrous to supply the fuel. if not read properly, then you go lean. if you can't get a good enough reading, then you have to go into the PCM to tune for it. then, depending on how much duty cycle you injectors are at, you may need to upgrade, along with a fuel pump, so it can feed the injectors.

with a wet, it's easier to tune it. all you have to do is change the jetting around to get the proper a/f ratio you are shooting for. no need for upgrading the fuel pump and injectors. the nozzle injects the fuel, instead of the injectors.

more stuff to break, and when the gas solenoid sticks, booom

but im talkin small shot, not this big shot drag stuff

i think they both have ups and downs, its a matter of perspective mostly.

**mrr23** · 01-21-2007, 06:14 PM

Originally Posted by sobaka79

more stuff to break, and when the gas solenoid sticks, booom

but im talkin small shot, not this big shot drag stuff

i think they both have ups and downs, its a matter of perspective mostly.

same stuff to break whether dry or wet.

when an injector gets clogged, or sticks, boom as well.

but i agree with you, matter of perspective.

**turbotko** · 02-06-2007, 12:54 PM

Well, I see the major boom if the fuel solenoid doesn't open on a wet kit.......but don't really see the boom if a injector doesn't open on a dry setup. I'm no expert here so please explain to me.

It looks like if an injector doesn't open on 1 cylinder with a dry kit, then there will be no combustion no matter how much N20 you have going into that cylinder. No combustion means no damage. Now on a wet kit, were some of the fuel is coming from the nozzle and some is coming from the injector I could see it going lean and hurting the motor.

I've been anti dry kit for so long but have been researching it lately due to fuel puddling issues etc. with the wet setup. Seems the only way to run a wet kit on todays intakes is with DP setup.

Not being a no-it-all, just wanting more info.......so chat away!

**mrr23** · 02-07-2007, 05:25 AM

if a fuel injector doesn't open on one cylinder, there will still be a 'boom'. once the exhaust valve opens, all the unburnt nitrous goes into and mixes with the unburnt fuel in the exhaust system. now, you've just fed the fuel more oxygen. and in a hot environment, it suddenly burns when it's not supposed to. now, this can go backwards back into the cylinder, called reversion. you may not blow an intake, but you can still pop a ringland. yes, this is a lesser chance.

fuel puddling is a myth, per say. stalling of the air flow is the problem. it's when you overload the intake tract with nitrous and fuel and it's got nowhere to go is when problems arise. then, because of reversion and cam overlap, a flame comes back into the intake tract and ignites what's in the intake.

i've had backfires through the intake on a dy kit on my LT1 years ago. this was due to weak spark from the cylinder pressures overpowering the coil's ability to produce enough spark to jump the gap. which comes back to the reversion allowing flame travel back into the intake.

**sobaka79** · 02-07-2007, 04:34 PM

i still think that if saftey is the primary concern, go dry and 75 or less,

the chances for catastrophic failure are slim

over 100 or heaven forbid 200 plus, wet is must have imo.

**runngun** · 02-14-2007, 07:30 AM

Ok, I had somone ask me about a 3200 TC i'm selling for his automatic and Nitrous setup. I thought I'd throw this to the expert since it's somewhat related to this thread... Why wouldn't an auto with aftermarket TC work with Nitrous? I mean it should be fine. right?