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Nitrous Setup.. I'm kinda worried.

This is a discussion on Nitrous Setup.. I'm kinda worried. within the Nitrous forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I've decided that nitrous is what i want to do. I have a virgin 2001 Z28, that has 36k miles, ...

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    Member first01SS's Avatar
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    Nitrous Setup.. I'm kinda worried.

    I've decided that nitrous is what i want to do. I have a virgin 2001 Z28, that has 36k miles, stock internals, stock air intake, NO MODS, and an A4 transmission. I have ASR, and the 17", Z Rated tires (no speed limiter.) I want to add nitrous to the car; and i'm worried about that i'm going about this the wrong way. I'm looking at a direct port, NX nitrous kit NX Progressive Controller Gauge (NEX-15535), an AutoMeter Transmission Temp gauge and a vac/boost gauge. I've been trying to research various intake manifolds, but i really don't know if i want to afford the FAST LSX intake, and the other aluminum intakes bring up the concern of increased heat and weight. I am not sure if the stock intake can be drilled and if it will handle the increased pressures the nitrous will create, or where to drill the holes. I also will purchase a MSD ignition timing twister box, that has a triggerable retard. I only want to run a 125 shot, but i don't have a fortune to spend, but i want to do this right. Please help....

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    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    With a wet kit, nos before the maf and a plate after the throttle body for the fuel, no drilling required. Your manifold can handle it just get a tune becaue if it backfires it might crack the intake. That's about all I know, I can tell you though you would be doing yourself a world of good if you just call the nitrous dealers they will unveil all. I have started threads with minimal feedback. Good luck man.

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    Member first01SS's Avatar
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    unfortunately, the dealers LOVE to suggest their own products, wether they work well or not... my concern with the single nozzle after the MAF is the uneven intake of the nitrous into the cylinders. Also, how that fact will affect the longevity of the engine..

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    sell your virgin car and buy an already built car .......plenty of them on here cheap!!! would cost u much less than to build the same car yourself....just my 2 cents

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    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by first01SS View Post
    unfortunately, the dealers LOVE to suggest their own products, wether they work well or not... my concern with the single nozzle after the MAF is the uneven intake of the nitrous into the cylinders. Also, how that fact will affect the longevity of the engine..
    THEY work just fine, go to your local mechanic and ask them they don't give a rats ass about dealers and they tell you the truth. Zex and Nos are both great companies no exploding tanks yet. Just ask what they recomend for a basic kit they will tell you, call another place and they will tell you the same thing just different brand name.
    Shooting nitrous effects the longevity of your car no matter what you do, you can expect that 10 bolt or our a4 to go when they experience over 100 extra power to the wheels (both weakest links in our cars).

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    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyjnjz View Post
    sell your virgin car and buy an already built car .......plenty of them on here cheap!!! would cost u much less than to build the same car yourself....just my 2 cents
    Good luck in this dead market.

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    Member joedude02's Avatar
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    i am thinking of adding juice to my car as well. i think that a direct port set up would be a waste of money with a virgin car. i am planning on keeping things simple. check out this kit from harris speed. http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/shop...age=1&featured

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    Senior Member Danger731's Avatar
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    Just get a plate kit with safety features. Why are you wanting a trans temp guage or a boost guage ? WTF...
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    Senior Member bills98ta's Avatar
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    I recommend a plate system too. Never seen a stock intake drilled & tapped... The dry shot is also a good option for a stock motor. You will want to get the timing retarded some for the spray ! I used the dry shot for four years on a stock bottom before it pulled a rod bolt. Pistons are still in great shape !!! I have a new tough build now, so I'm now considering a direct port system.

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    Member first01SS's Avatar
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    Never do i claim to be an expert at anything.. i've always had A4 transmissions die due to overheating. I now have a fairly large tranny cooler on it, but i've always been concerned with the actual heat in the tranny. As far as the boost/vac gauge goes, i really don't require it for any real reason, except to keep my foot out of the floor and see where my daily-driving fuel economy goes. I'd like to be a person that can keep this engine for a while, and safely run N20 without destroying the engine..

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    69 hugger orange
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    direct port would be overkill right now

    get a nice nozzle or plate kit,wide open throttle switch and a rpm window switch with on and off chips,a fuel pressure safety switch and get a tune,timing controller or at least retard the timing a little
    a step colder plugs gapped at .30-.35,i use ngk tr6
    people have gotten a lot of miles out of ls1's with similiar setups

    there is always the odd cases or overlooked safety features that cause misfortune
    but with all the above,assuming your car is sound now you should be fine with a small shot 100-150,usually anything above 150 people will say to get a fuel pump at least maybe injectors too

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    69 hugger orange
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    but as stated above the 4l60e and the 10 bolt can be problems with that much hp

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    Member first01SS's Avatar
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    any suggestions on a replacement for the 4L60E and 10 bolt rear end?

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    Member first01SS's Avatar
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    also, any suggestions where i could have my car dynoed and tuned

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    Honestly, unless your doing anything over a 200 shot, I agree with everyone else. Just stick with a nozzle kit or if you're concerned with distribution, a plate kit will solve all your needs.

    If you're concerned with the transmission, I would recommend setting up a window switch so that you don't spray through the gears. And for the rear, just use a window switch that features a gear lock out and don't spray it until 2nd gear.

    There are so many different ways to set up a nitrous kit on these cars...it can be confusing sometimes and if you have any questions please feel free to shoot me a PM to better discuss your set up.

    Thanks

    Nick

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    JUISSED Midnight02's Avatar
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    You're certainly on the right track.

    Nitrous has been without a doubt the best mod I've done to date. As with most mods, the effectiveness and longevity of the car will depend on the plan you develop and your ability to stay within the reasonable limitations of that plan. There are plenty of horror stories out there, however many of them are by-products of trying to cut corners with safety features and tuning or simply getting too greedy with the bottle ("let's bump it up to a 250 shot for just this one race").

    In short, the motor can handle a 100 rwhp shot. Whether or not your transmission and rear end can handle the power reliably over the long haul is debatable. Might be a good time to start budgeting for a new tranny and new rear end (a 12-bolt would more than likely be sufficient for your setup -- unless you're planning for more substantial mods down the road).

    As for the setup -- a plate setup helps evenly disburse the nitrous and makes for a neat install....really helps save you the headache of a typical nozzle setup. I have the NX Mass Air Flow kit and it works like a dream. I'd definitely recommend a wide-open-throttle switch and a window switch -- if you'd prefer to get those combined with a progressive controller (controls the flow of nitrous to reduce the shock of the initial hit), check out the FJO Mini controller -- it's a great piece for the price.

    Finally, make sure you get a tune. You'll likely need to pull timing from your setup -- whatever you pay for the tune, it will be well worth the added peace of mind.
    2002 Camaro SS M6, 2.5 PRC 5.3L heads, TFS 228/230 cam, FAST 92, bolt ons + a 10 lb bottle in the back.


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    Member first01SS's Avatar
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    SUMMIT Parts
    -------------
    MSD Ignition Timing Twister
    $271.40

    Gauge Pod, Single 2 1/16 in., Black ABS, Chevy/Pontiac, Camaro/Firebird, Each
    $22.95

    Nitrous Controller; Octane Series Progressive Nitrous Controller; Fits Standard 2 1/16 in. Gauge Pods
    $468.96

    HSW Parts:
    -------------
    98-'02 Automatic Camaro/Firebird Ashtray Switch Plate
    $61.35

    LS1 F-Body, GTO, CTS-V, C5 Corvette, and Truck Platforms complete 78mm EFI Wet Nitrous Plate Kit
    $528.13

    This is what i am looking to purchase. I really like HSW so i'd prefer to buy everything from there; but feel free to cut out or modify items you guys think i don't need/or need.. i'm a complete newbie with nitrous.. btw thanks so far for such great input..

  18. #18
    my 3 rides STANG KILLA SS's Avatar
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    you dont need all that crap. just a kit.
    i ran a NOS 5177 100 shot kit for like 4 years nothing else. knocked 1 full second off my 1/4 mile ET

    nitrous outlet and HSW are both great helpful folks and very active on the forums.

    im upgrading to nitrous outlet 90mm plate 200 shot wet kit now.

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    JMAC Racing WS6ICK's Avatar
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    +1 for the HSW Plate Kit.
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    Member NoscamaroSS's Avatar
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    I vote for the HSW plate kit too. Mine seems like it hits harder than the nozzle ever did!
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