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Nitrous for dummies (please help)

This is a discussion on Nitrous for dummies (please help) within the Nitrous forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; But what should I do to run bigger shots?...

  1. #21
    DAVE97
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    But what should I do to run bigger shots?

  2. #22
    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DAVE97 View Post
    But what should I do to run bigger shots?
    change the jets.

  3. #23
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    I haven't seen a KB Cobra in my area that is quicker than my car. Stalled built auto, bolt ons with a 125 dry shot = 11.4 in the 1/4 (rolling of the line and nailing it). Cam coming soon and a bigger shot should net me mid 10's with traction.

  4. #24
    DAVE97
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    what size injectors and what size sparks?


    i also wanted to know wich is better a wet or dry?


    im thinking about going with a dry becuase i dont want fuel in my intake risky i think..


    wich system is good and complete?


    thanks for the help.....

  5. #25
    Junior Member blackwidow99's Avatar
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    Both systems are good and people will have varying opinions on each.

    With dry system when you add your cam shaft you will need to upgrade your fuel injectors as well. With out the cam shaft you should be ok for about 100 to 125 dry on the stock fuel injectors.
    With the dry system you really need to have the ability to do computer tunning to adjust the airfuel properly.

    With a wet system you will not have to worry about upgrading the fuel injectors unless you install a cam that the stock injectors can not support NA.
    With the stock motor and stock tunning you will not have to do any computer tunning to tune the nitrous. You can adjust the airfuel by changing out the fuel jets.

    Now with all that aside here are the advantages and disadvantage of each system. If anyone tells you one is all around perfect for all applications they are wrong.

    DRY.
    Disadvantages- Cumputer tunning is normally a must, Nozzle location plays a large roll in how the tune goes. (This is why we suggest the Halo. It works 10X better than any nozzle.) Dry systems are normally more tempermental and not as easy to tune as a wet system.

    Advantages- Bottle pressure is not as critical. If you do not have bottle pressure the system will simply just not pick up any HP. Running a system with no purge will just have a delay in the responce of the hit from the system. It will not go rich and bog. In the case of a nitrous Backfire it is normally not as violant since you have less fuel vapors in the intake.

    Wet
    Disadvantages- You are relying on a fuel solenoid to deliver the fuel it is anotther machanical part with in the build that could potentialy have issues. In the case of a Nitrous Backfire the backfire will be more Violant since there is more fuel vapors in the inatake than usual. Bottle pressure is more critical do to the fact if the bottle pressure is not there the car will go rich and bog. A purge is more of a advantage with a dry kit so that when the nitrous hits it will not bog from the fuel getting there first.

    Advantages.
    Tunning is 10x easier. No need to worry about fuel injectors. On a stock motor no tunning to remove timming is needed and all you have to do to adjust airfuel is change the fuel jet out. It is common to see better torque numbers out of a wet syestem. No need to worry about the maff going bad or a bad injector causeing a cylinder to go lean.

    These are all facts. They are not twisted because I prefer one over the other. I suggest reading through these and being true with your self as far as your abilities and expectations.

  6. #26
    !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ATCharming's Avatar
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    wow i learned a TON in this thread. i didnt even ask the question, but thank you to everyone that replied.

    also, this is a bit off topic, but ive been on other message board sites and no1 responds as quick or knows their shit as much as ppl on this site... how high of a nitrous shot would my stock 305 tbi be able to take, if itd be able to take any? would i need to upgrade ANYTHING?

  7. #27
    Member danziger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATCharming View Post
    wow i learned a TON in this thread. i didnt even ask the question, but thank you to everyone that replied.

    also, this is a bit off topic, but ive been on other message board sites and no1 responds as quick or knows their shit as much as ppl on this site... how high of a nitrous shot would my stock 305 tbi be able to take, if itd be able to take any? would i need to upgrade ANYTHING?
    I had a 305 TBI I was toying around with and don't see why you couldn't run a 75-100shot on it as long as you take the standard precautions (tune, colder copper plugs, good gas, window switch, etc). I don't know if anybody makes a nitrous plate for the TB/manifold...you could always run a nozzle in the cold-air intake. Check with some of the sponsors.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by danziger View Post
    I had a 305 TBI I was toying around with and don't see why you couldn't run a 75-100shot on it as long as you take the standard precautions (tune, colder copper plugs, good gas, window switch, etc). I don't know if anybody makes a nitrous plate for the TB/manifold...you could always run a nozzle in the cold-air intake. Check with some of the sponsors.
    thanks for the info. what do u mean check with the sponsors? i mean... i know check there for products. but, i still need to be educated a bit more before i just jump in and buy a kit

  9. #29
    Member drewhenderson13's Avatar
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    i would think a carb nitrous plate would work on a throttle body injected car. ive never messed with any throttle body injected car ever... but thats my guess.

    and as far as a 305 taking spray... dont be scared... its gotta take a 100 shot at least, and if it doesnt it was a piece of sh*t to begin with. ur better off finding this out sooner rather than later. rebuilding/replacing gm engines is cheap anyways

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by drewhenderson13 View Post
    i would think a carb nitrous plate would work on a throttle body injected car. ive never messed with any throttle body injected car ever... but thats my guess.

    and as far as a 305 taking spray... dont be scared... its gotta take a 100 shot at least, and if it doesnt it was a piece of sh*t to begin with. ur better off finding this out sooner rather than later. rebuilding/replacing gm engines is cheap anyways
    well... u seem to be a nitrous expert. if u dont mind helpin me out, can we take this to pm's? so we dont hijack this thread more

  11. #31
    Senior Member jrc1122's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATCharming View Post
    well... u seem to be a nitrous expert. if u dont mind helpin me out, can we take this to pm's? so we dont hijack this thread more
    Hi jack away, I started the thread to learn, the more info on it, the better

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrc1122 View Post
    Hi jack away, I started the thread to learn, the more info on it, the better
    well... i was sayin itd be hijackin cuz i have a completely different engine, so the info would be completely different.

    but if u dont mind, Awesome!

    so drew, (or anyone else) how do i know how big of a shot my car could handle? also, do i need to upgrade ANYTHING at all? and how do i know what kind of kits would work with my tbi engine?
    also, do i need to get tuned (or burn a chip) for nitrous??

  13. #33
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    start with 75 to 100 if not possibly a lil lower like a 50.

  14. #34
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    im no expert... but i know my fair share about street spraying.

    the real danger in nitrous is burning a piston/ring or over reving. if u get a window switch ull never over rev. and like i said before if a 100 shot burns ur engine up wit all the proper safety devices it needed to blow up.

    i wouldnt worry about UPGRADING anything else. get a kit with instructions and theyll tell u the plugs to get (1 or 2 steps colder) and if u need to retard ur timing (easy on ur car caus u have a distributor). every kit on the internet tells u specificly NOT to upgrade anything else. not that u cant, im just saying, any other parts are for further performance gains not safety.

    the most u can do is replace ur pistons with forged ones. and id have to slap u in the face if u put a forged bottom end in ur car to spray 100 shot. just look at it this way... if u blow it up u can forge the bottom end and run a massive shot and make all ur slow friends look like bit***s.

    calling or emailing a company that sells nitrous (i emailed nitrou daves nitrous outlet once and they gave me a perfect answer) they can tell u anything u want to know as far as what kits fit what.

    im 97.35% positive a spray plate for a carbuerated nitrous setup will work.

    but if u get that kit ull have to do ur own calculations for what jet sizes to use (based on fuel pressure). its easy they have calculators on the net. ill try to find one, im on a dif computer now and its not saved in fav places

    as far as getting a chip... i dont think ur car has a chip! look in ur trunk for a huge computer with vacume tubes! ull have to replace that with a performance one... itl run u about 10,000. im jk, if u run a wet kit u wont need a computer tune.

    in all honesty id prolly turn that thing carbuerated if it was me. id get a new intake manifold (although i think the one u have will work), a carbuerator, and a new fuel pump (carbed fuel pumps are lower pressure).

    but that doesnt really have anything to do with nitrous... i just think carbuerators are cool

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by drewhenderson13 View Post
    im no expert... but i know my fair share about street spraying.

    the real danger in nitrous is burning a piston/ring or over reving. if u get a window switch ull never over rev. and like i said before if a 100 shot burns ur engine up wit all the proper safety devices it needed to blow up.

    i wouldnt worry about UPGRADING anything else. get a kit with instructions and theyll tell u the plugs to get (1 or 2 steps colder) and if u need to retard ur timing (easy on ur car caus u have a distributor). every kit on the internet tells u specificly NOT to upgrade anything else. not that u cant, im just saying, any other parts are for further performance gains not safety.

    the most u can do is replace ur pistons with forged ones. and id have to slap u in the face if u put a forged bottom end in ur car to spray 100 shot. just look at it this way... if u blow it up u can forge the bottom end and run a massive shot and make all ur slow friends look like bit***s.

    calling or emailing a company that sells nitrous (i emailed nitrou daves nitrous outlet once and they gave me a perfect answer) they can tell u anything u want to know as far as what kits fit what.

    im 97.35% positive a spray plate for a carbuerated nitrous setup will work.

    but if u get that kit ull have to do ur own calculations for what jet sizes to use (based on fuel pressure). its easy they have calculators on the net. ill try to find one, im on a dif computer now and its not saved in fav places

    as far as getting a chip... i dont think ur car has a chip! look in ur trunk for a huge computer with vacume tubes! ull have to replace that with a performance one... itl run u about 10,000. im jk, if u run a wet kit u wont need a computer tune.

    in all honesty id prolly turn that thing carbuerated if it was me. id get a new intake manifold (although i think the one u have will work), a carbuerator, and a new fuel pump (carbed fuel pumps are lower pressure).

    but that doesnt really have anything to do with nitrous... i just think carbuerators are cool
    funy thing. everyone tells me to go carbuerated lol. i dont see why? i mean, i dont know enough to debate the topic, i just dont understand how it will benefit me? and how expensive woud that be??

    anyways... ill check for the chip. im almost positive i have a chip, im on thirdgen.org and guys talk about burnin chips all the time. but with a wet kit i dont need to get a tune (or burn a chip)? sweet.

    also yea i was thinkin that if i blow my engine up, ill have to replace shit, and it will force me to only make improvements on my car. so if it blows up, it will be for the better haha.
    im kind of jk tho. i dont want it to blow yet. i dont have the cash to fix that...

    u sya overreving is bad... well, my auto tranny shifts 1500rpms PAST redline. sometimes more... redline is at 5k, it shifts at 6500-7k... i know its bad, but i cant really help that right now hahah. anyways, is nitrous gonna blow me up if im revving that high? or would a window switch that stops at my redline keep me safe?

  16. #36
    Member drewhenderson13's Avatar
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    no... thats not really an overrev... kinda, but the factory usually sets redline/shiftpoint below what it really needs to be for different reasons.

    fuel economy, lasting a little longer, better on transmission... whatever im just guessing really. i dont even know what redline really is for a 305, ull have to ask someone else that.

    redline in my book is when the valves float... anything else is just an overheating problem to me.

    ur car definetly has a chip/computer... but u wont need to modify it for a wet kit.

    as for the benefits of a carbuerator... think of it like this its not necesarly the carbuerator itselfe thats better. if u ever modify ur engine and need more fuel a carbuerator is a cheaper way to get that more fuel, rather than buying new injectors. and i dont know a whole lot about throttly bodie injection other than how it works. but a carb may allow better air flow.

    pluss... carbuerators are just plain cool


    i would anticipate ur engine needing repair at some point and start building a decent carbed 350 on the side. put it together a little at a time and when its ready, hopefully (and most likely) ur 305 will still be running. take that mother fuc**r out and spray the biggest shot ur kit will allow and blow it the fu*k up! <(the 305 i mean)

    thats what my plan used to be at least

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by drewhenderson13 View Post
    no... thats not really an overrev... kinda, but the factory usually sets redline/shiftpoint below what it really needs to be for different reasons.

    fuel economy, lasting a little longer, better on transmission... whatever im just guessing really. i dont even know what redline really is for a 305, ull have to ask someone else that.

    redline in my book is when the valves float... anything else is just an overheating problem to me.

    ur car definetly has a chip/computer... but u wont need to modify it for a wet kit.

    as for the benefits of a carbuerator... think of it like this its not necesarly the carbuerator itselfe thats better. if u ever modify ur engine and need more fuel a carbuerator is a cheaper way to get that more fuel, rather than buying new injectors. and i dont know a whole lot about throttly bodie injection other than how it works. but a carb may allow better air flow.

    pluss... carbuerators are just plain cool


    i would anticipate ur engine needing repair at some point and start building a decent carbed 350 on the side. put it together a little at a time and when its ready, hopefully (and most likely) ur 305 will still be running. take that mother fuc**r out and spray the biggest shot ur kit will allow and blow it the fu*k up! <(the 305 i mean)

    thats what my plan used to be at least
    awesome info. as for the plan, i think thats what im gonna do haha

  18. #38
    Member drewhenderson13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATCharming View Post
    awesome info. as for the plan, i think thats what im gonna do haha
    its a perfect plan if i do say so myselfe

    thats what they were ment for!

  19. #39
    DAVE97
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    IN A VETTE COULDN'T I JUST GET THE 100-125SHOT WHILE THE CAR HAS NOTHING ELSE DONE TO IT AND JUST SAVE MY PENNIES AND BUILD THE BOTTOM END SO I CAN JUICE IT UP TO BIG NUMBERS LIKE 250-350SHOTS? OF COURSE UP GRADING EVERYTHING ELSE NEED TO SUPPORT LIKE FUEL/SPARK/TUNE...ETC

    If I were to do this I'm not going to have any heads no cam no intake or exhaust/headers!!!!

    WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK?



    WOULD THAT BE WORTH IT AND WHAT WOULD THE COST OF A BUILT BOTTUM END BE?...

  20. #40
    Member drewhenderson13's Avatar
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    what year/what engine vet u have?

    and yes thats a fine idea. i dont think ive ever seen a v8 that wont take a 100 shot without te proper safety equipment. that is if the engine was in fine shape to begin with (not smoking and knocking).

    forged bottom ends arent too bad expensive. i like SCAT (its a brand) parts. they make cranks for sbc that they rate at 900 or 1000 hp.

    all the stuff is in ur good old summit and jegs catalogs.

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