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Nitrous for dummies (please help)

This is a discussion on Nitrous for dummies (please help) within the Nitrous forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Okay in a M6. How does Nitrous work in between shifts? I know you can set it up to only ...

  1. #1
    Senior Member jrc1122's Avatar
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    Nitrous for dummies (please help)

    Okay in a M6. How does Nitrous work in between shifts?

    I know you can set it up to only engage only during full throttle,
    That being the case...

    first question: When you let off the gas to shift, and then once you are engaged in the next gear does the nitrous kick back in automatically when you are back to full throttle? Or would you have to push the nos again? If I have to push the button again, would that be considered a "second stage".

    second question... Do you push the NOS button once, and it sprays for a set amount of time, or does it only spray while you are holding in the button.

    Lastly - can someone explain "stages" - ON pinks I heard them say them talk about stages. I thought this might be spraying in multiple gears. Example, 2nd and 3rd? Am I right?


    Thanks for teaching me about Nitrous

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    i know you dont want n02 spraying durring the shift. i believe it has rpm shut-off.

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    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrc1122 View Post
    Okay in a M6. How does Nitrous work in between shifts?

    I know you can set it up to only engage only during full throttle,
    That being the case...

    first question: When you let off the gas to shift, and then once you are engaged in the next gear does the nitrous kick back in automatically when you are back to full throttle? Or would you have to push the nos again? If I have to push the button again, would that be considered a "second stage".
    if you have a wot switch, then when you let off the pedal, it shuts off. when you floor it again, the nitrous comes back on. no, this isn't a second stage.

    Quote Originally Posted by jrc1122 View Post
    second question... Do you push the NOS button once, and it sprays for a set amount of time, or does it only spray while you are holding in the button.
    if you have a hand held button, it sprays as long as you hold it.

    Quote Originally Posted by jrc1122 View Post
    Lastly - can someone explain "stages" - ON pinks I heard them say them talk about stages. I thought this might be spraying in multiple gears. Example, 2nd and 3rd? Am I right?


    Thanks for teaching me about Nitrous
    no, not multiple gears. multiple nitrous kits.

    stages is what i had on mine. basically, it's two complete nitrous kits and you use them seperately, or combined.

    example. i had two kits on my car. first kit was set at 100. second kit was set at 150. so, i launched on the 100, then turned on the second kit for a total of 250. this eases drivetrain stress over hitting it all at once with a 250.

    here's a super duper multi stage nitrous system.






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    Senior Member jrc1122's Avatar
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    Thanks,

    I am still a bit confused,

    I have to hold the button in, all while steering, and shifting? That seems like a big hassle.

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    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrc1122 View Post
    Thanks,

    I am still a bit confused,

    I have to hold the button in, all while steering, and shifting? That seems like a big hassle.
    you specified button in your initial post.

    Quote Originally Posted by jrc1122 View Post
    first question: When you let off the gas to shift, and then once you are engaged in the next gear does the nitrous kick back in automatically when you are back to full throttle? Or would you have to push the nos again? If I have to push the button again, would that be considered a "second stage".

    second question... Do you push the NOS button once, and it sprays for a set amount of time, or does it only spray while you are holding in the button.

    most kits come with a WOT switch. this goes near the throttle body. the arm will hit it when you floor it and turn it on for you. when you shift, you left off the pedal. this will disengage the nitrous. then, when you floor it again, it will engage the nitrous.

    here's what at WOT switch looks like:


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    Member danziger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrc1122 View Post
    Thanks,

    I am still a bit confused,

    I have to hold the button in, all while steering, and shifting? That seems like a big hassle.
    All you have to do is arm the kit and the wide-open-throttle switch will do the rest. It's also a good idea to use a window-switch in conjunction with the WOT. You can set the window switch so that that, once armed, the nitrous will only spray between x and y RPM. My window switch is set to spray between 3000 and 6000 RPM...

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    Crazy Canuck ! Eugenio_SS's Avatar
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    you usually have an arming switch... turn that on and let it do the job.

    You have safety switches in the system:
    wot-switch
    rpm-window-switch

    basically, if system armed (ON), all safety must be compliant... otherwise, it's as if the system is @ off.
    That means that you must be @ wot and you must be within the specified range of rpm from you window switch.

    example.
    rpm window = 3000-5500

    if you floor from line, it won't spray, even if the system is armed, until you are within the rpm range.
    Also, if you lose traction and the wheels spin, rpms rise fast, and nitrous will shut down @ 5500, avoiding you from spraying while reaching the fuel rpm cutoff.
    Obviously, whenever you let go of the gas slightly, for shifting or any other reasons, the systems stops spraying.
    Eugenio_SS
    almost stock triple-black 2000 SS convertible with 17x11s on all 4 w/ 315s at the track or on the street with 18x10.5s on all 4 w/ 315s: (1), (2)

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    Senior Member jrc1122's Avatar
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    thanks all, very helpful

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    Member 408WS6's Avatar
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    Just get a WOT switch and call it a day. They are pretty cheap and easy to install. You definitely don't want to run nitrous without a WOT switch or at least a push button switch. I use a WOT switch even with an automatic. RPM switch is also highly recommended.

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    Senior Member jrc1122's Avatar
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    while I am learning,: with stock internals, what is safest to run; wet or dry? cost difference as well?

    I'll be honest i dont even know the difference in wet and dry set ups (but if it is a lengthy explaination, I suppose I will google it)

    I wanted to add 150 shot with WOT switch and RPM gauge switch as well. would that be okay, or should I only do 100 shot?

    what do ya think that will cost for complete set up?

    complete kit $________ ( probably NOS or ZEX)
    install labor $________

    total $__________

    thanks guys.

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    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrc1122 View Post
    while I am learning,: with stock internals, what is safest to run; wet or dry? cost difference as well?
    both are fine. i prefer wet. cost difference will be about 100-150ish

    Quote Originally Posted by jrc1122 View Post
    I'll be honest i dont even know the difference in wet and dry set ups (but if it is a lengthy explaination, I suppose I will google it)
    dry set up means only nitrous goes through the intake manifold. wet set up is nitrous and fuel going through the intake manifold.

    Quote Originally Posted by jrc1122 View Post
    I wanted to add 150 shot with WOT switch and RPM gauge switch as well. would that be okay, or should I only do 100 shot?
    150 is fine. been doing that since i bought the car two years ago with 200-250 in the last 6 months. all on stock motor.

    Quote Originally Posted by jrc1122 View Post
    what do ya think that will cost for complete set up?

    complete kit $________ ( probably NOS or ZEX)
    install labor $________

    total $__________

    thanks guys.
    cost can be in the $1000.00 range, depending on what you get.

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    Senior Member jrc1122's Avatar
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    thanks, I was hoping it was closer to 500 dollars. For 1k seems like i would rather save up and have constant power with a procharger/ or supercharger instead of onlyhaving it during wide open throttle between 3k and 5.5k RPM, only when engaged. seems like a lot of money.

    Thanks again for all the info.

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    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    you can buy a basic nitrous kit for under $500.00. installation and some other safety items will let you to the $1k mark

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    And Procharger kit with install is looking at more like 5k+ easily. Nitrous will get you going as fast or almost as fast for a fraction of the initial cost, and everything else will be essentially stock.

    Jon

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    Quote Originally Posted by jrc1122 View Post
    thanks, I was hoping it was closer to 500 dollars. For 1k seems like i would rather save up and have constant power with a procharger/ or supercharger instead of onlyhaving it during wide open throttle between 3k and 5.5k RPM, only when engaged. seems like a lot of money.

    Thanks again for all the info.
    Look around on the classifieds...I've seen plenty of full-on kits for $500.

    A centrifugal blower won't be making a whole lot of extra power below 3K RPM either... Be prepared to spend $6-7K on a FI set-up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jrc1122 View Post
    while I am learning,: with stock internals, what is safest to run; wet or dry? cost difference as well?

    I'll be honest i dont even know the difference in wet and dry set ups (but if it is a lengthy explaination, I suppose I will google it)

    I wanted to add 150 shot with WOT switch and RPM gauge switch as well. would that be okay, or should I only do 100 shot?

    what do ya think that will cost for complete set up?

    complete kit $________ ( probably NOS or ZEX)
    install labor $________

    total $__________

    thanks guys.
    remember that dry will provide fuel through your injectors.
    If you have a 99-00 model, the injectors are smaller, and you won't be able to go higher than a 100hp shot without reaching the injector limit.
    Wet, you dan't have that issue of stressing the injectors...
    In both cases, you'd still be limited to the stock fuel-pump, which is good for at least 450rwhp
    start w/ 100shot, you'll be @ 150 after awhile... power is addictive... lol

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    Junior Member blackwidow99's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eugenio_SS View Post
    remember that dry will provide fuel through your injectors.
    If you have a 99-00 model, the injectors are smaller, and you won't be able to go higher than a 100hp shot without reaching the injector limit.
    Wet, you dan't have that issue of stressing the injectors...
    In both cases, you'd still be limited to the stock fuel-pump, which is good for at least 450rwhp
    start w/ 100shot, you'll be @ 150 after awhile... power is addictive... lol
    What is the average cost to upgrade the injectors?

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    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackwidow99 View Post
    What is the average cost to upgrade the injectors?
    new injectors can run about $350-$400. then, you have to have the PCM programmed for the new injector rate. that can run $150-$400, depending on the tuner.

  19. #19
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    wow thanks i have been looking around for a post like this im getting a c5 soon most likely a 2000-2002 but i want to run a 100 to 125 i believe that is safe? i also wanted to know if i run a 100 shot how do you up it to something higher? i plan to make this the first mod to the car is that okay?




    where i stay and race at theres nothing but cobras that sh*t on all the vettes around town i need some power right off the back aahhh them damn kb/whipple cobra's aint scared of nothing

    the plans for the car are heads/cam/intake long tubes exhuast and the fuel system up the injectors with that will it be okay to run a bigger shot or do i need to up the bottomend? and sense im going to be running nitrous what should my first mods be so i can run big shots like some one said they have 100 shot first then a 150 later thats what i want how do i do this?

    i want to rep for the vette's

  20. #20
    Just another Joe Eagle's Avatar
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    You can run the 150HP shot right off the bat. Just take it in to have it tuned on a wideband O2 dyno the first time so that you get the air/fuel (A/F) correct. The LS1 can take that much spray stock...

    I took my '02 WS6 completely stock and added LCAs, SFCs, a STB and a HSW nitrous kit within a month of buying it. The car is fast as all get out with the 100HP shot... can't wait to get my software so I can tune it myself for the 150!

    -Eagle

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