This is a discussion on N20 problem within the Nitrous forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; have a CF wet kit, using Dynotune window switch...system kicks on when it's suppose to but then kicks off about ...
11-26-2006, 12:41 PM #1
have a CF wet kit, using Dynotune window switch...system kicks on when it's suppose to but then kicks off about 1.5 seconds later....had the same thing happen with MSD digital window switch, so i got the Dynotune one thinkin the MSD was the problem.....i'm stuck i dont know what it could be, went over wiring now several times but everything looks good....thanx
11-26-2006, 05:49 PM #2
my thought would be the relay is overheating. try a different one.
11-26-2006, 06:22 PM #3
thought that too, had a cheap parts store 30/40 relay,swapped it out for a better 40/60, no improvement
11-26-2006, 06:27 PM #4
11-26-2006, 06:34 PM #5
not using one
11-26-2006, 07:31 PM #6
have you tried using the nitrous without the window switch? next thought is where is the window switch grounded at?
11-26-2006, 07:37 PM #7
no i havent, using window switch TPS input for WOT activation.....on the battery ground point on the pass side fender well...
11-26-2006, 07:43 PM #8
you'll have to seperate the system. use the main arming switch for an activation switch. or now, connect the 86 and 87 terminals together. this will bypass the window switch and send direct power to the noids once you turn it on. go out for a drive. get up to 3000 rpms and go to WOT. then flip the switch. if the noids aren't losing power, you should make it to 6000 rpms. if you do, then turn the power off, then let off the pedal. doing this will let you know if it's a noid issue.
make sure on shut down, you do it the way i have it in bold. that way you don't forget to shut the system off after you let off the gas pedal. so long as you have the power on, the nitrous will stay on.
11-27-2006, 07:47 PM #9
what's the latest on this?
11-27-2006, 08:35 PM #10
not sure, i just moved the noid ground from block to chassis (see previous post) was doin a test run but ran out of juice...hopefully can get a refill before it starts snowin....on a side note i have my noids mounted to a custom bracket that mounts on the head, do you think the extra heat could be affecting the solenoid operation ?
11-27-2006, 08:44 PM #11
The place where you have the solenoids mounted should not be affecting the solenoids. That is the same place that I have mine mounted and I have the same CF kit. I am also using the MSD digital window switch. The MSD dig. switch has to be set on 4 cyl. mode due to the coil packs on the LS-1 or it wont read the right rpms. It sounds to me like its possibly a problem with the TPS. What size shot are you running and what jet in fuel and N2O?
11-28-2006, 04:38 AM #12
11-28-2006, 02:12 PM #13
what gotn2o hit on something. does the dynotune have to be set for a certain cylinder engine? 4, 6, or 8? if the switches are set to 8 cylinder, it's doubling the rpm reading. so 3000 rpms would read 6000 rpms to the switch. now, you say it shuts off after 1.5 seconds. if you shift, does it come back on? maybe not because 4000 rpms would be 8000 rpms.
try setting to 4 cylinder like he suggested, or bypass like i suggested. something will work.
Last edited by mrr23; 12-15-2006 at 06:52 AM.
11-28-2006, 03:34 PM #14
Also I ALWAYS wire it so the sol. are seeing constant power...So your actually giving it a ground signal through the relay.... It see less of a voltage drop that way
Feel free to pm me your # and I'll call you if you haven't figured it out.Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!
11-28-2006, 04:13 PM #15
11-28-2006, 04:15 PM #16
11-28-2006, 04:19 PM #17
No problem it actually keeps the sol. cooler becuae they don't see an intial voltage drop.
Hope I helped.
11-28-2006, 04:23 PM #18
is it safe to assume it's better for the noids switchin ground instead of power ?
11-28-2006, 05:05 PM #19
11-28-2006, 05:09 PM #20
i know most injector drivers are set up that way...makes sense
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