Keep it simple...

**1EvilWS6** · 11-19-2007, 10:55 AM

I'm looking for the experienced people who can tell me what I can BOLT ON to my 2001 WS6 to get 400+ out of it. I want to keep it as streetable as possible for DD. I'd prefer not to rip into the guts of the motor if I could avoid it. I'm looking for people that have gone this route themselves. Let the fun begin!

**Danger731** · 11-19-2007, 11:08 AM

I dyno'd 333 w catback and lid. You should comparable with a 2001 WS6. I use a Harris Speed Works plate kit (75 shot) to get me there. I like it because of gas prices here in California (345 for super) and it keeps my motor virgin from the wrench (for now). Heads, cam with other bolt ons are nice but I don't need 400 rwhp all the time and I can always bump to 125 safely which will put me around 450.

**TNTramair** · 11-19-2007, 11:37 AM

small shot will get you where you need to be...take a look at www.harrisspeedworks.com for their basic dry kit which is cheap and very effective. 75dry should get you right to 400rwhp.
hope this helps.

**1EvilWS6** · 11-20-2007, 07:14 AM

Thanks for the help! I'm looking at going the full bolt on route from the Lid in and the headers out. What can I expect to gain from this? Additionally, will I need a new fuel pump to add a dry 75 shot, and how well will the motor hold together after the multiple uses?

**2001hawk** · 11-20-2007, 08:56 AM

I have a friend who has been shooting a true 150 shot on a stock motor as long as I have known him. He uses his on a pretty regular basis. I also have a few friends that shoot 200 shots on their motors. They don't shoot their kits quite as often because they don't need to, not that it causes any issues. I am shooting a 180 shot on my stock bottom end without issue so far *knock on wood* LOL. You shouldn't have a problem with a 75 shot.
On the fuel pump question, no you shouldn't need a new one. None of my buddies that have dry shots have replaced their pumps. I would probably go with Pacesetter or Hooker for the headers. I would put a set of NGK TR6's while I had everything torn off.

**1EvilWS6** · 11-20-2007, 11:28 AM

I've heard various opinions about those plugs. Are they worth it if used for DD and performance from time to time?

**01ws6er** · 11-20-2007, 12:23 PM

Originally Posted by 2001hawk

On the fuel pump question, no you shouldn't need a new one. None of my buddies that have dry shots have replaced their pumps. I would probably go with Pacesetter or Hooker for the headers. I would put a set of NGK TR6's while I had everything torn off.

My car is also a DD and I am planning to get Nitrous soon as well (along with full bolt ons and a cam when $$$ is available) I've also heard SO many opinions on wet or dry, and I'm still confused...

I was looking at ZEX kits, but they're kind of expensive... What's better...arming the system manually, or letting the TPS do it at wot??? Remote bottle openers, bottle heater...are they needed? And I wanna get a purge kit to keep it in check, and scare people lol. Thanks, and hope some answers will helps you too 1EvilWS6!

**Toes** · 11-20-2007, 02:17 PM

Get as many saftey items as possible dont buy a system because its cheap because you WILL pay for it later. Do NOT go with out a fuel safety switch or a window switch. Purging is for consistency a must if you want to bracket race. remote opener, really not needed unless your really lazy or street race. bottle heater is used to keep your bottle pressure good. I wish i had a pic of my friends nutstang engine with a rod hole from going cheap. Call a nos dealer and get set up right the first time.

**LS2Tuner** · 11-21-2007, 09:50 AM

Dry kits are for rental cars only!
Put a NICE wet plate on it and you can blow 150 ALL day with everything bone stock as long as the fuel pressure will stay steady.
But as cheap as fuel pumps are now buy a Walbro 255 and don't worry about it.
A/F ratio is the key and a set of real race plugs that are made for extreme cylinder pressure. I would run Autolite AR94's.
That should put you past your level and believe me a couple monthes you'll be buying some 175 jets.

**mnypitZ** · 11-22-2007, 06:28 AM

Without the nitrous you wont get to 400rwhp. I am 8hp away with cam and heads and full bolt ons. On 100 shot of nitrous with a dynotune wet kit I am at 470rwhp. 400 was my magic number too. I am running the stock fuel pump. Just make sure you take the safety precautions associated with nitrous or you could blow it up.

**LS2Tuner** · 11-22-2007, 09:09 PM

Have you ever done a compression test on your motor? If not do yourself a favor and do one with the motor warm up to operating temp. and mock the throttle blade WFO "wide open" so your not trying to suck air through the idle circuit.
How many miles are on your motor? We have better luck with high mileage motors due to the ring gap increases. I have seen MANY motors that have 150,000 plus last longer than low mileage motors. The problem with the low mileage motors is the ring gap is WAY TOO TIGHT! So as soon as you blow 175 + the ring pigtails hit each other and butt causing ring damage which equals blow-by. The added cylinder pressure @ 175hp is HUGE!!
Your motor will hold up to great amounts of bottle but I would stay with a wet shot! I only put dry kits on rentals for MANY reasons.
It's an A4 car?

**01ws6er** · 11-23-2007, 05:26 AM

Originally Posted by LS2Tuner

Have you ever done a compression test on your motor? If not do yourself a favor and do one with the motor warm up to operating temp. and mock the throttle blade WFO "wide open" so your not trying to suck air through the idle circuit.
How many miles are on your motor? We have better luck with high mileage motors due to the ring gap increases. I have seen MANY motors that have 150,000 plus last longer than low mileage motors. The problem with the low mileage motors is the ring gap is WAY TOO TIGHT! So as soon as you blow 175 + the ring pigtails hit each other and butt causing ring damage which equals blow-by. The added cylinder pressure @ 175hp is HUGE!!
Your motor will hold up to great amounts of bottle but I would stay with a wet shot! I only put dry kits on rentals for MANY reasons.
It's an A4 car?

If you're asking me than no, I have an M6. Why, is it any different on the components I'll need for setup?

**1EvilWS6** · 11-23-2007, 07:24 AM

I have not as of yet done a compression test either.( Good Idea though )... My '01 is Stock with the exception of aftermarket wires and a Powershot Air filter, both were done 3 years ago. As for the milage, she just flipped 63,000. Not real high but, than again I just came back from spending a year and a half in Afghanistan, during which time she sat covered up.

**oreowizard** · 11-23-2007, 03:58 PM

Originally Posted by LS2Tuner

Have you ever done a compression test on your motor? If not do yourself a favor and do one with the motor warm up to operating temp. and mock the throttle blade WFO "wide open" so your not trying to suck air through the idle circuit.
How many miles are on your motor? We have better luck with high mileage motors due to the ring gap increases. I have seen MANY motors that have 150,000 plus last longer than low mileage motors. The problem with the low mileage motors is the ring gap is WAY TOO TIGHT! So as soon as you blow 175 + the ring pigtails hit each other and butt causing ring damage which equals blow-by. The added cylinder pressure @ 175hp is HUGE!!
Your motor will hold up to great amounts of bottle but I would stay with a wet shot! I only put dry kits on rentals for MANY reasons.
It's an A4 car?

I have just rebuilt my T/A incuding the tranny. Its a A4. Is there a NO2 consideration due to it being an auto, and litterally with 0 miles on it? I was going with a 150 wet not long after I put the car on the road.