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hsw dry nitrous kit safe?

This is a discussion on hsw dry nitrous kit safe? within the Nitrous forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Hey guys i was thinking about getting the hsw dry nitrous kit for my 98 ss. its only $300 so ...

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    hsw dry nitrous kit safe?

    Hey guys i was thinking about getting the hsw dry nitrous kit for my 98 ss. its only $300 so thats a good deal but i have heard that dry nitrous is more dangerous than wet but i want to know if it is very dangerous if im only running like a 70 shot tops. And you guys know alot about nos, has anyone been running it for a long time and not had problems. i know i would need a tune for it and im wondering if it would be bad for my engine or reduce its life if its a small shot like 70 and if i dont use it that much?

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    i was looking at this kit on hsw. http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/shop...cat=365&page=1

    this is a pretty inexpensive kit and i know there are probably better ones to buy but i only want to run the 50 shot or maybe 75 shot tops. Would this kit be safe on the car if i didnt use it that frequently? I know nitrous isnt really good on engines but if i use a small shot every now and then i dont figure it would be too bad. and this is probably a really dumb question but how is a plate kit different than this? Any info would help im new to nitrous. Thanks.....John

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    John,

    I wouldn't consider dry any more dangerous than wet. I would make sure that you have enough injector to keep up with the kit. Stock cars are usually good up to a 125 shot dry on stock injectors.

    If you're still concerned about safety, I would take a look at the all-out accessory kit. It has everything available on the market today to make your kit as safe as possible as well as consistent. If money is a concern, I would at least invest in the MicroEDGE controller. It features a built in dual stage control window switch, TPS, a/f shut down switch as well as a bunch of delays and gear lock-outs.

    If you have any questions please feel free to ask. Thanks!

    Nick

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    ok so my stock injectors should be good because i dont want to run over a 75 shot. Nick, In your opinion do you like the wet or dry the best? i saw the dry kit for $300 and if i bought the microedge window switch and only run a 75 shot tops would it be pretty safe? i want something a little less expensive for right now because i wont be using it much or takin it to the track very often. Thanks for the help..........John

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    Member side2000's Avatar
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    i dont trust the MAF to save my motor from detonatin' to death.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jmatt07 View Post
    ok so my stock injectors should be good because i dont want to run over a 75 shot. Nick, In your opinion do you like the wet or dry the best? i saw the dry kit for $300 and if i bought the microedge window switch and only run a 75 shot tops would it be pretty safe? i want something a little less expensive for right now because i wont be using it much or takin it to the track very often. Thanks for the help..........John
    I actually prefer dry kits. They always get a bad rap and its generally based off of dated technology. I think you're headed in the right direction. Always remember that you can build upon a dry kit so there isn't anything wrong with starting small. The only thing I would add is the MicroEDGE because if adding that at a later date, you might have to re-wire a few parts of the kit, but I see you have that added.

    If you have any questions, please feel free to ask. Thanks.

    Nick

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    Quote Originally Posted by side2000 View Post
    i dont trust the MAF to save my motor from detonatin' to death.
    What does a MAF have to do with detonation? Not trying to debate with you, just asking a question.

    Nick

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    if it gets a bad reading/fails while nitrous is being injected, boom.

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    Quote Originally Posted by side2000 View Post
    if it gets a bad reading/fails while nitrous is being injected, boom.
    Exactly. And please don't think I'm picking on you, because you are correct with that statement. My purpose was to point out that the same could be said with a wet system. What happens if the fuel solenoid doesn't open? What if its an old solenoid and its not compatible with some of the newer fuel additives found in today's fuels? Do you see what I'm trying to get at? That perhaps neither one is technically superior to the other. We have addressed the issue with trying to aim the nozzle at the maf to get the right a/f ratio with the Interface. It is in my opinion, a far better and easier way of spraying dry. And for the ultimate in safety, add the MicroEDGE controller into the picture. There are many devices out there that keep the kit safe and consistent.

    Nick

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    i certainly don't think you're pickin on me. . .certainly anything can fail in any scenario, but forcing the computer to do more work based on the reading of a sensor is just not my idea of peace of mind. i have physical control over most of those other variables you mentioned the idea that the sensor is the only thing between my motor runnin' great and blowin' is just not appealing to me. doesnt mean everyone should flee the scene everytime someone sprays dry based on my original statement.

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    Still The Junior Member RedVertTA's Avatar
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    I'm not running nitrous now, but personally between wet and dry I prefer dry, less chance of backfire to destroy your intake.

    Safest is direct port hands down, the less tunneling through your intake the better.

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    Ive ran wet and in the begining i was really using more fuel then i need but never had any issues at all with my wet kit. Ofcourse that was on a 93Z, make sure you have the right plugs, good spark, timing is accurate and A/F. On my 93Z i had to pull 7 degrees out to get it to run right and i was running very rich, just by pulling some fuel up top i was able to gain an extra 18rwhp, too bad i couldnt get more dyno time only had 3 runs. Im also debating on wet vs dry and most likely i will go wet, if you put your car on the dyno and see your A/F a bit lean you can compensate either getting a tune or going a tad bigger on the fuel jet. One good thing about my 93Z was i didnt have to touch the fuel jets the AFPR helped out big time especially on that model year since the computer wont re adjust fuel pressure at WOT it will stay at what you put it at, later model years are different. If i were you i would definitly upgrade to a wet system, get it on a dyno right away to get your A/F and you should be fine. As far as HSW im sure many people have had good luck with them but for me i had 3 failed solenoids and got tired of going through the hassle of sending them and waiting and waiting while they come up with an answer as to why it failed and if they can send another one out so i had to actually purchase 2, for me they failed and was professionally installed. I will more then likely go a different route this time, either way GL and stay safe.
    Last edited by karpetcm; 02-06-2009 at 06:24 PM.

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    Dry kit for 4 years same engine and won several trophy class and sportsman class races running it. Don't have to purge dry kit, less componants to deal with, never get the over rich condition from not purging wet kit and never get the all N20 kiss of death from a faulty fuel solenoid. Dry is easy to install and great for 75-125 street friendly Hp. I now run wet cause I'm not street friendly

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    Senior Member karpetcm's Avatar
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    cuzimoto, other then running the dry what was your other supporting mods just curious. Im still debating. How much timing should i take out running dry for 100 shot, i know i have to change the spark plugs for sure.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cuzimoto View Post
    Dry kit for 4 years same engine and won several trophy class and sportsman class races running it. Don't have to purge dry kit, less componants to deal with, never get the over rich condition from not purging wet kit and never get the all N20 kiss of death from a faulty fuel solenoid. Dry is easy to install and great for 75-125 street friendly Hp. I now run wet cause I'm not street friendly
    About not needing to purge, is that because you're spraying in front of the maf? Some dry kits spray after the maf.

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    [QUOTE=karpetcm;1806665]cuzimoto, other then running the dry what was your other supporting mods just curious. Im still debating. How much timing should i take out running dry for 100 shot, i know i have to change the spark plugs for sure.[/QUO

    The only supporting mods for the dry kit was a Walbro 255lph fuel pump and TR6 spark plugs. Ran the shit out of the car like that for about 4 years never had i single problem with it. Actually had a Hypertec 93 octane tune and I live in Ca with 91. Ive added a lot of engine safety mod support for the wet kit.

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    Forgot to mention, I was running 125 shot.

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    You'll be fine. Specially with that baby shot I put on 4 cyl. cars. . . . . .

    Really the biggest issue I see with people's kits are MIS INSTALLATION!!

    If your not good with wiring have a friend help that is. You need a Good power supply and a Good ground.

    Also do yourself a HUGE favor and get some 6 cyl. rear springs from the junkyard and install them first. It will be the best $40-60 you have spent. Those stock SS springs are stiff as rocks and by NO means aid in hooking up.

    Good Luck.
    Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by RedVertTA View Post
    About not needing to purge, is that because you're spraying in front of the maf? Some dry kits spray after the maf.
    Two reasons, one, yes because it's in front of the Mass and, two cause with the dry kit if you don't purge your initial hit is pig rich cause of the fuel solenoid. Can't happen with dry kit. I'm thinking about putting my dry kit back on for street while leaving wet hooked up for track.

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    Quote Originally Posted by side2000 View Post
    i certainly don't think you're pickin on me. . .certainly anything can fail in any scenario, but forcing the computer to do more work based on the reading of a sensor is just not my idea of peace of mind. I have physical control over most of those other variables you mentioned the idea that the sensor is the only thing between my motor runnin' great and blowin' is just not appealing to me. Doesnt mean everyone should flee the scene everytime someone sprays dry based on my original statement.
    i am installing a new zex dry kit for my 95 trans am replacing the wet system, the directions say to place the nitrous spray nozzle after the maf sensor to the throttle body not in front of maf or it will damage maf...i have read here on some posts to put it beofre the maf..should i stick with the manufactureres instructions? Its for the zex dry system for lt1's dry kit anybody have one? Any help would be very much appreciated too thank you everyone

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