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Thread: Help with Nitrous!!!!
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03-01-2007, 04:59 PM #1
Help with Nitrous!!!!
O.K I am ashamed to admit it but I am deffenitly on a budget with my Camaro. So far I have done a flowmaster cat back and a K&N FIPK. I want to be fast out there on the street but I dont have the money to build up the LS1 or buy a blower, So NOS seems to be the logical explination...
I do plan to get a stall and 373s for my auto... but other than that and maybe an ls6 intake, I think thats about all that will be done...
What the hell do I do? and yes I want to do a 150 shot if I can. But I am going to buy it soon. And I could care less if there is a differance of oppinion I want EVERYONES oppinion....and it would be nice if it were reliable (as reliable as a 150 shot can be)1998 Trans Am Vert, M6, Soon to be full of goodies......
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03-01-2007, 05:04 PM #2
My honest opinion. You want to do nitrous on a budget and be reliable. Its not possible.
You will need alot of equipment on top of the basic nitrous kit. Things add up. At my shop our typical nitrous install runs about $1500 just in equipment.
So I'll say this. Do it right or don't do it.
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03-01-2007, 05:11 PM #3
Yes you can do it for cheap!!!! Buy a NX kit and install it yourself or get one of your friends to help you install it. Don't waste your money on a stall unless you've done a cam swap.
Put a hobbs switch in the circuit to cut power to the solenoids if fuel press. drops and wire them constant power so your switching with the ground side.
Don't waste any money on a nitrous filter or window switch!!!
Even if you upgrade to a aftermarket fuelpumps you should be able to do it for $680-800.Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!
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03-01-2007, 05:31 PM #4
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Mystic Teal- 99 Trans Am & 01 CBR 929
LS2Tuner is definatly right. When I bought my kit I paid around 900 for everything but I bought a really nice window switch and fuel pressure switch and bought one of the more expensivebasic kits from NX which wasnt worth the extra money compared to what some of our sponsers are selling for. You should be able to have a full wet kit setup and run an inline fuel pump for around 600$
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03-01-2007, 05:36 PM #5
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03-02-2007, 05:19 AM #6
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03-02-2007, 05:29 AM #7
items I bought so far
HSW wet kit 335
switch plate 30
BMN window switch 129
Fuel Pressure SS 35
Purge 69
a filter and heater is onlt about 230 more, thats cheap with all the saftey features.
You spray 150 shot without a window switch you will blow your shit up.
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03-02-2007, 02:01 PM #8
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Mystic Teal- 99 Trans Am & 01 CBR 929
only thing I would change on that list is to get the heater instead of the purge. It will do you more good than the purge will for roughly the same price..
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03-02-2007, 02:06 PM #9
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03-02-2007, 02:48 PM #10
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Mystic Teal- 99 Trans Am & 01 CBR 929
hmm good guess but not even close. Never heard of anyone encountering a problem from getting there full flow of nitrous a couple hundreths of a second late and nor would that make any sense but thank you for the input. It was more of a transmission issue (blew band off second gear) and over revved and floated a valve.
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03-02-2007, 04:08 PM #11
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03-02-2007, 04:35 PM #12
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03-02-2007, 06:23 PM #13
True which is why on most street tire cars we ALWAYS stager the line length from the solenoides. I add 4"-8" depending on how much we are blowing and weather or not it's a clutch. You would be amased at the difference we have seen in the 60 fts. before and after. And for all the wannabe "Rickey Racers" that don't know that intial 100ft. make your et or break it. And that's a fact. We braket race with 200hp jets and hitting it on the big end is VERY surprising how little a difference it makes. You would think it would cause you to "break out" all the time but it doesn't.
Last edited by LS2Tuner; 03-02-2007 at 06:32 PM.
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03-03-2007, 07:09 AM #14
Last edited by mrr23; 03-03-2007 at 07:18 AM.
Cold Air Intake, Muffler Delete, Vinci High Performance Dual Valve Springs, Hardened Pushrods, Yella Terra 1.85 Rockers, Some Hydropdipped Stuff, Strut Tower Brace, Some SS Badges, boost/vacuum gauge, fuel pressure gauge, some checkered stripes, drilled/slotted rotors, ZL1addons Stealth wickerbill, Ruxifey LED side markers
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03-03-2007, 07:26 AM #15
Windows are for NON experienced drivers!!! NOT needed. Been using the bottle for 15 years on 60% clutch cars and NEVER used one yet. And NO blow ups from the juice.
And YES AUTOLITES ALL THE WAY!! We use there racing plugs though which would be a AR104 I believe.
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03-03-2007, 10:53 AM #16
Yeah, heater is next on the list, just debating on which one still.
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03-04-2007, 05:46 AM #17
You can find great deals on nitrous parts if you look around. Spend the money on the solenoids and bargain-hunt the rest. I like the window switch, but it isn't absolutely necessary. I don't use a FPSS, but some folks like them. I use a TNT wet-kit, TR6s at .038 gap, a cheap plug-in heater, inline-pump, TNT purge and a MSD window-switch. Total cost was maybe $800 and I ran it with a 100shot for a year on the bolt-on motor back in the day...no tune needed. At least check your A/F ratio with the 150 shot...
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03-04-2007, 06:55 AM #18
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That does seem to fit the description of the thread starter....
As for a purge kit; I don't use mine to get the instant hit but rather to empty my line afterwards. If a solenoid were to leak the residual nitrous into an intake after the motor has been shut off the next start could be with a bang.
Finally, my choice for a window is the bottom rpm limit more than the high for the same reason above. Even so, I sure would want the nitrous to be cut off if I miss a shift or for some other reason wing the engine past the limiter.
One final suggestion for a non experienced driver is to be able to cut spark rather than fuel if for some reason they do run past red line.
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03-04-2007, 02:49 PM #19
Well if I miss a shift the button is on the shifter also so I'll release my thumb. Sorry I use total control on a button NOT a wfo switch.It also works WAY better for a street car that way cause if you spin with the wfo switch you have to get off the gas to shut down the kit..... Now the whole pass is ruined. With unit on a shifter button or hand held I can stay full throttle and just pulse the button or grab it again at 200 ft mark. And if your that worried all you do is close the bottle off and hit the button again to empty the line.
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03-06-2007, 06:22 AM #20
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