Help with Nitrous!!!!

[schrysler]

O.K I am ashamed to admit it but I am deffenitly on a budget with my Camaro. So far I have done a flowmaster cat back and a K&N FIPK. I want to be fast out there on the street but I dont have the money to build up the LS1 or buy a blower, So NOS seems to be the logical explination...
I do plan to get a stall and 373s for my auto... but other than that and maybe an ls6 intake, I think thats about all that will be done...

What the hell do I do? and yes I want to do a 150 shot if I can. But I am going to buy it soon. And I could care less if there is a differance of oppinion I want EVERYONES oppinion....and it would be nice if it were reliable (as reliable as a 150 shot can be)

[Patriot Performance]

My honest opinion. You want to do nitrous on a budget and be reliable. Its not possible.

You will need alot of equipment on top of the basic nitrous kit. Things add up. At my shop our typical nitrous install runs about $1500 just in equipment.

So I'll say this. Do it right or don't do it.

[LS2Tuner]

Yes you can do it for cheap!!!! Buy a NX kit and install it yourself or get one of your friends to help you install it. Don't waste your money on a stall unless you've done a cam swap.
Put a hobbs switch in the circuit to cut power to the solenoids if fuel press. drops and wire them constant power so your switching with the ground side.
Don't waste any money on a nitrous filter or window switch!!!
Even if you upgrade to a aftermarket fuelpumps you should be able to do it for $680-800.

[juiced99ws6]

LS2Tuner is definatly right. When I bought my kit I paid around 900 for everything but I bought a really nice window switch and fuel pressure switch and bought one of the more expensivebasic kits from NX which wasnt worth the extra money compared to what some of our sponsers are selling for. You should be able to have a full wet kit setup and run an inline fuel pump for around 600$

[LS2Tuner]

LS2Tuner is definatly right. When I bought my kit I paid around 900 for everything but I bought a really nice window switch and fuel pressure switch and bought one of the more expensivebasic kits from NX which wasnt worth the extra money compared to what some of our sponsers are selling for. You should be able to have a full wet kit setup and run an inline fuel pump for around 600$

Exactly!!!! Spray the crap out of it and don't be scared!!!

[juiced99ws6]

Exactly!!!! Spray the crap out of it and don't be scared!!!

better yet.. spray it til you DO get scared. its WAY more fun that way

[Danger731]

items I bought so far
HSW wet kit 335
switch plate 30
BMN window switch 129
Fuel Pressure SS 35
Purge 69

a filter and heater is onlt about 230 more, thats cheap with all the saftey features.

You spray 150 shot without a window switch you will blow your shit up.

[juiced99ws6]

only thing I would change on that list is to get the heater instead of the purge. It will do you more good than the purge will for roughly the same price..

[Patriot Performance]

only thing I would change on that list is to get the heater instead of the purge. It will do you more good than the purge will for roughly the same price..

Lack of a purge is probably why your user title says "N20 Backfire Victim"

[juiced99ws6]

hmm good guess but not even close. Never heard of anyone encountering a problem from getting there full flow of nitrous a couple hundreths of a second late and nor would that make any sense but thank you for the input. It was more of a transmission issue (blew band off second gear) and over revved and floated a valve.

[LS2Tuner]

Lack of a purge is probably why your user title says "N20 Backfire Victim"

Are you really that misinformed on the nitrous issues. If so I would not be giving out advice. Lack of a purge would actually help on a lean tune..... Due to the lack of strength on the liquid oxygen.

[juiced99ws6]

Are you really that misinformed on the nitrous issues. If so I would not be giving out advice. Lack of a purge would actually help on a lean tune..... Due to the lack of strength on the liquid oxygen.

thank you... lack of purge would also be a little more freindly on the drive train as well since it doesnt hit as hard.

[LS2Tuner]

True which is why on most street tire cars we ALWAYS stager the line length from the solenoides. I add 4"-8" depending on how much we are blowing and weather or not it's a clutch. You would be amased at the difference we have seen in the 60 fts. before and after. And for all the wannabe "Rickey Racers" that don't know that intial 100ft. make your et or break it. And that's a fact. We braket race with 200hp jets and hitting it on the big end is VERY surprising how little a difference it makes. You would think it would cause you to "break out" all the time but it doesn't.

[mrr23]

You spray 150 shot without a window switch you will blow your shit up.

really? guess i better hurry up and put one on the wife's car then. never had one until i did the nozzle test last year.

running a 150 shot, you will need to put colder plugs in. TR6 as a minimum. BP7EFS or autolite 103 preferred.

[LS2Tuner]

Windows are for NON experienced drivers!!! NOT needed. Been using the bottle for 15 years on 60% clutch cars and NEVER used one yet. And NO blow ups from the juice.
And YES AUTOLITES ALL THE WAY!! We use there racing plugs though which would be a AR104 I believe.

[Danger731]

Yeah, heater is next on the list, just debating on which one still.

[danziger]

You can find great deals on nitrous parts if you look around. Spend the money on the solenoids and bargain-hunt the rest. I like the window switch, but it isn't absolutely necessary. I don't use a FPSS, but some folks like them. I use a TNT wet-kit, TR6s at .038 gap, a cheap plug-in heater, inline-pump, TNT purge and a MSD window-switch. Total cost was maybe $800 and I ran it with a 100shot for a year on the bolt-on motor back in the day...no tune needed. At least check your A/F ratio with the 150 shot...

[01Z28M6]

Windows are for NON experienced drivers!!!

That does seem to fit the description of the thread starter....

As for a purge kit; I don't use mine to get the instant hit but rather to empty my line afterwards. If a solenoid were to leak the residual nitrous into an intake after the motor has been shut off the next start could be with a bang.

Finally, my choice for a window is the bottom rpm limit more than the high for the same reason above. Even so, I sure would want the nitrous to be cut off if I miss a shift or for some other reason wing the engine past the limiter.

One final suggestion for a non experienced driver is to be able to cut spark rather than fuel if for some reason they do run past red line.

[LS2Tuner]

That does seem to fit the description of the thread starter....

As for a purge kit; I don't use mine to get the instant hit but rather to empty my line afterwards. If a solenoid were to leak the residual nitrous into an intake after the motor has been shut off the next start could be with a bang.

Finally, my choice for a window is the bottom rpm limit more than the high for the same reason above. Even so, I sure would want the nitrous to be cut off if I miss a shift or for some other reason wing the engine past the limiter.

One final suggestion for a non experienced driver is to be able to cut spark rather than fuel if for some reason they do run past red line.

Well if I miss a shift the button is on the shifter also so I'll release my thumb. Sorry I use total control on a button NOT a wfo switch.It also works WAY better for a street car that way cause if you spin with the wfo switch you have to get off the gas to shut down the kit..... Now the whole pass is ruined. With unit on a shifter button or hand held I can stay full throttle and just pulse the button or grab it again at 200 ft mark. And if your that worried all you do is close the bottle off and hit the button again to empty the line.

[Patriot Performance]

hmm good guess but not even close. Never heard of anyone encountering a problem from getting there full flow of nitrous a couple hundreths of a second late and nor would that make any sense but thank you for the input. It was more of a transmission issue (blew band off second gear) and over revved and floated a valve.

Most nitrous backfires are due to pooling of gas in the intake manifold.

If you are not able to supply nitrous oxide at the same time as you are supplying gasoline in a wet system. You are creating a extremely rich condition.