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cam and bolt-ons trans am nitrous set-up

This is a discussion on cam and bolt-ons trans am nitrous set-up within the Nitrous forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I have a '99 WS6 6 Speed with the following mods: FLP Long Tube Headers Corsa Catback Exhaust System K&N ...

  1. #1
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    silver
    1999 WS6 Cam+Bolt-Ons

    cam and bolt-ons trans am nitrous set-up

    I have a '99 WS6 6 Speed with the following mods:

    FLP Long Tube Headers

    Corsa Catback Exhaust System

    K&N Cold Air Intake

    LS6 intake manifold

    Thunder Racing Custom Camshaft (230/232 .595"/.595" Lift on 114 LSA)

    Comp 918s Valve Springs

    Titanium Retainers

    Hardened Pushrods

    NGK TR55 Spark Plugs

    ASP Underdrive Pulley

    Car still has the stock heads.

    412 RWHP / 418 RWTQ


    I have a couple questions on the nitrous set up that i just bought. I have the NOS LS1 Wet Plate kit. It uses a micro switch for activation.

    My questions are:

    1. I'm unsure if i have stock fuel injectors and fuel pump, but if i do, would i most likely be able to run a 100-125 shot without starving for fuel? I intend to pull fuel from the rail for the kit.

    2. Would the stock ecu handle say a 100 shot without getting a tune, or with my mods will a tune be required?

    and 3. If i do get a tune for the nitrous set-up, will that tune make my car less powerful off the bottle?

    thank you guys for the help, and heres a pic of how I'm doing my bottle mount. I think its clever.



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  2. #2
    Senior Member Danger731's Avatar
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    Since it is a plate kit the injectors are out of the picture, what you want is a reliable fuel pump. A stocker I would trust to 100. Also people run fine at 100 without a tune myself included. I have a Walbro but will get a tune before going any higher. I'de be worried about the rear end as well since you will be over 500 at the wheels. I have a air fuel guage which gives alittle peace of mind as well. I have seen that mount before in Socal ! It works !

    More into the tune - with all those bolt ons are you sure the car hs not been tuned ? If it is you may be heading for disaster. Personally i would get it tuned for the bolt ons (max power) then have the timing automatically adjusted when the nitrous kicks in, they make after market timing adjusters or you can do a back yard mechanic one. This way you are always at your peak n/a then protect the motor for the shot.
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    silver
    1999 WS6 Cam+Bolt-Ons

    The car IS tuned for my current mods and made 412/418. I meant will I have to get another tune with just a 100 shot or will my current tune pretty much compensate for it?

  4. #4
    Junior Member cj3489's Avatar
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    Orange and Ghosty
    2001 WS6 m6

    all you should need is a timing controller so you can retard the timing when you're gonna be on the bottle...

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    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    2001 Camaro SS

    I would highly suggest a tune if you're going to run nitrous to be safe. Not sure what nitrous setup you have planned but i'd recommend reading through this thread, lots of info on the subject here

    Nitrous questions!

    If you're still rocking the original fuel pump i highly recommend at least a racetronix kit, it's a well put together kit and all plug and play. I got mine with the wiring kit and i highly recommend it.
    BLK2KSS likes this.

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    BANGIN GEARS>STAB N STEER BLK2KSS's Avatar
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    2000 CAMARO SS M6 #2100

    I would say a fuel pump is a must if you’re running the stocker now. Like said above, Racetronix makes a great kit. I went with the Walbro255 and would not recommend it because of all the modifications I had to do to make it work properly. I also recommend getting it retuned for the nitrous. In my opinion I wouldn’t spray anything with your setup without tuning. As mentioned above you can get it tuned for max N/A hp and have it setup to automatically pull timing when you arm the nitrous. This is the type of tune I have with mine and it works great. It’s ALWAYS better to be safe then sorry when it comes to nitrous. As long as you do everything correctly and the right way then nitrous is just as safe as any other power adder but if you cut corners and don’t go the safe route you will end up with a big paper weight in the shape of an LS1 motor. Good luck with it man. I will warn you, it’s like a drug, once you hit it that first time you will be addicted so be prepared lol.

    Also, you are gonna wanna swap out those plugs too before you spray it to at least a TR6 but I think I would do the BR7 if I were you.
    Last edited by BLK2KSS; 03-27-2012 at 02:10 AM.

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    JUISSED Midnight02's Avatar
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    First and foremost, most nitrous related failures can be logically explained by some type of mechanical malfunction or (more likely) a simple failure to adjust your setup properly for spray.

    My personal experience -- I wanted a "dummy proof" N2O setup. Bought the right parts, had it professionally installed and tuned and had plenty of safety features built in along the way. That being said, my car is in the shop for a rebuild right now because of failure of the ringland in #7 on a 150 shot. Amazingly enough, after doing more research, there's an issue in modified '01 and '02 models with heat and lack of fuel in #7 (and #8). Specifically adding more fuel to #7 and a water vapor kit might have helped prevent the problem but not once did I even consider this could be an issue when I put my N2O setup together. Lesson learned -- do your homework and don't cut corners.


    Since your car was already tuned for N/A power, don't try to just "get by" with a 100 shot on that tune. The cost of being wrong would be substantial.

    As for your nitrous tune -- you have two different roads you can go down. 1. Simply change your base tune to a N2O tune with reduced timing, etc. This will reduce your N/A power. I went this route for safety purposes and it cost me roughly 15 rwhp and 4 rwtq compared to a strong N/A tune. 2. Stick with your N/A tune and use an alternate means of pulling timing when you spray. My concern with this is that it opens up the door for one more potential equipment malfunction (timing tuner isn't working, etc.). These work really well for a lot of people and malfunctions on these types of equipment aren't that common, however it was worth it for me to trade 15 rwhp for the peace of mind of not having to rely on an additional piece to do the work.

    Of particular note -- spend the money on the fuel pump. Can the stocker support a 100 shot on top of your mods? It's pushing the envelope but it could possibly work. That being said, wouldn't it be expensive to find out you were wrong? Also make sure you have the proper heat range plugs in the car.

  8. #8
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    1999 WS6 Cam+Bolt-Ons

    Quote Originally Posted by Midnight02 View Post
    First and foremost, most nitrous related failures can be logically explained by some type of mechanical malfunction or (more likely) a simple failure to adjust your setup properly for spray.

    My personal experience -- I wanted a "dummy proof" N2O setup. Bought the right parts, had it professionally installed and tuned and had plenty of safety features built in along the way. That being said, my car is in the shop for a rebuild right now because of failure of the ringland in #7 on a 150 shot. Amazingly enough, after doing more research, there's an issue in modified '01 and '02 models with heat and lack of fuel in #7 (and #8). Specifically adding more fuel to #7 and a water vapor kit might have helped prevent the problem but not once did I even consider this could be an issue when I put my N2O setup together. Lesson learned -- do your homework and don't cut corners.


    Since your car was already tuned for N/A power, don't try to just "get by" with a 100 shot on that tune. The cost of being wrong would be substantial.

    As for your nitrous tune -- you have two different roads you can go down. 1. Simply change your base tune to a N2O tune with reduced timing, etc. This will reduce your N/A power. I went this route for safety purposes and it cost me roughly 15 rwhp and 4 rwtq compared to a strong N/A tune. 2. Stick with your N/A tune and use an alternate means of pulling timing when you spray. My concern with this is that it opens up the door for one more potential equipment malfunction (timing tuner isn't working, etc.). These work really well for a lot of people and malfunctions on these types of equipment aren't that common, however it was worth it for me to trade 15 rwhp for the peace of mind of not having to rely on an additional piece to do the work.

    Of particular note -- spend the money on the fuel pump. Can the stocker support a 100 shot on top of your mods? It's pushing the envelope but it could possibly work. That being said, wouldn't it be expensive to find out you were wrong? Also make sure you have the proper heat range plugs in the car.



    Yesterday i ordered up the racetronix pump kit with the wiring upgrade, NX Bottle Heater and MSD Window Switch. I also made an appointment on the 18th of April with Kaltech for a tune. Were going to just tune for nitrous and sacrifice some N/A Power.

    So heres my current set-up, please let me know if you think anything is missing:

    NOS Cheater Wet Plate Kit
    100 shot or 125 shot (haven't decided yet)
    10lb bottle with pressure gauge
    NX bottle heater
    6AN line from bottle to purge solenoid which is directly connected to the nitrous solenoid
    4AN line from nitrous solenoid to plate
    4AN line from fuel rail to fuel solenoid
    4AN line from fuel solenoid to plate
    WOT switch
    MSD Window Switch set for 3000 rpm to 6000 rpm
    Racetronix pump with wiring upgrade
    NGK BR7s


    thanks

    mike

  9. #9
    Senior Member Danger731's Avatar
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    maybe a FPSS ?

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